Review with Video: Convoy L6 3800 Lumens for about $50?

Not sure how legit this 3800 lumen is, the Convoy L6 is definitely a very budget-friendly beast. I have fried it myself now, and sadly not 26650 around for the full package fun, but 18650 2x still works int he light, whew! I have to do more torture test and crazy things with the light to see if it is really a legit buy. Why can this be cheaper than most beasty light on the market? Beside the brand name and appearance or cosmetic stuff, what else is missing in the product that the expensive stuff have in terms of technical/internal/whatever factor that allows them to sell it that cheap? I have no idea, but maybe some nerdy flashaholic can decode this for me.

Basically, I don't trust cheap lights, but sometimes there can be exceptions, so I will put it on a test later with some drop test, water proof test, runtime test, maybe shooting it.. lol.. see what happens and hope it can survive my torture test and make it a cool budget light that I can recommend for my friends to try!

Its a boatload brighter than my 2200 lumen Et MX25L2 I know that. I examined mine pretty closely build quality actually seems good. Oddly my MX25L2 out throws it pretty well. I find 2x26650 an odd choice for such a high power light I would imagine 2x32650 would be more appropriate. All that being said mine works fine. Huge jump between the two low modes and the 2 high modes. Gonna have to wait for someone with the proper testing equipment to verify claims.

A few things I do know about this light which will help you.
It is cheap for a few reasons: It is a no frill package, notice it does not come with any extras and in a plain box. It is a very simple design, no electronic switches or anything.
The reason it has an orange peel reflector is to hide the cross shape shadow you normally get with a quad die such as the XHP-70
You can read about the history of this light here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/43503

CelticCross74 said:

Its a boatload brighter than my 2200 lumen Et MX25L2 I know that. I examined mine pretty closely build quality actually seems good. Oddly my MX25L2 out throws it pretty well. I find 2x26650 an odd choice for such a high power light I would imagine 2x32650 would be more appropriate. All that being said mine works fine. Huge jump between the two low modes and the 2 high modes. Gonna have to wait for someone with the proper testing equipment to verify claims.

Click to expand...

Glad you got yours, I know youve waited a while. Supposedly Simon will be releasing a smooth reflector if you want to turn this into a throw light.

actually where I live is pretty crowded. My Javelots and other dedicated throwers can get me in trouble here at night. I like the light I really do I was not expecting to like it this much. My next door neighbor is a cop that works odd hours and has let me know in no uncertain terms not to "turn those damn things on when I am home". Can never tell when hes home so its night fishing on the Potomac for the big lights. Should Convoy release a smooth reflector for it Idk I do understand the orange peel is to eliminate the hole in the center of the beam though. Amazing, its a sheath worthy light!

CYMac said:

Not sure how legit this 3800 lumen is, the Convoy L6 is definitely a very budget-friendly beast. I have fried it myself now, and sadly not 26650 around for the full package fun, but 18650 2x still works int he light, whew! I have to do more torture test and crazy things with the light to see if it is really a legit buy. Why can this be cheaper than most beasty light on the market? Beside the brand name and appearance or cosmetic stuff, what else is missing in the product that the expensive stuff have in terms of technical/internal/whatever factor that allows them to sell it that cheap? I have no idea, but maybe some nerdy flashaholic can decode this for me.

Basically, I don't trust cheap lights, but sometimes there can be exceptions, so I will put it on a test later with some drop test, water proof test, runtime test, maybe shooting it.. lol.. see what happens and hope it can survive my torture test and make it a cool budget light that I can recommend for my friends to try!

Click to expand...

The multiple positive reviews on both CPF and BLF show there is little need to question how legit this impressive light is. Convoy are well known for high quality, low cost, and keeping things simple - hence the low cost.

stephenk said:

The multiple positive reviews on both CPF and BLF show there is little need to question how legit this impressive light is. Convoy are well known for high quality, low cost, and keeping things simple - hence the low cost.

Click to expand...

Yes, there are so many good reviews for Convoy lights, that's why I bought the Convoy C8. When I received it, I was as impressed as I thought I would be too. I'll definitely buy more Convoy lights. :thumbsup:

On the other hand, of all of my lights purchased so far, the one I'm most disappointed in is one that has thousands of positive reviews/posts on here (people rave about it). I had bought it to use as my EDC and I'm so disappointed that I don't even use it at all. It's an expensive light too (not a Convoy).

So, I guess it's fair to think "believe it when I try for myself", which isn't a bad thing, just human nature and what personal preference is, which might be different from many other people's.

as impressed as I am with the incredible output of the L6 the light showed up with its threads and O rings bone dry. Luckily have lots of NyoGel 760G. Everything is nice and smooth now. There is an odd piece of LED that Idk how it got there is laying aside the main emitter. Guess the L6 is so popular now they are really rushing them through. Will take apart and remove it. I am trying to locate a holster that would fit this beast properly...no luck so far..

I might buy this for dad. He doesn't rate a vn but he's worth 50 bucks.

Thanks, Mak Jo Si


Hey, Wendee was here!

CelticCross74 said:

as impressed as I am with the incredible output of the L6 the light showed up with its threads and O rings bone dry. Luckily have lots of NyoGel 760G. Everything is nice and smooth now. There is an odd piece of LED that Idk how it got there is laying aside the main emitter. Guess the L6 is so popular now they are really rushing them through. Will take apart and remove it. I am trying to locate a holster that would fit this beast properly...no luck so far..

Click to expand...

I've been wondering about this, but I've not been involved for very long so I really didn't know if I needed to lubricate my lights. Anyone have any advice they'd like to share?

Thanks in advance

Skip the many silicone greases that many light makers sell its good for a little bit but it dries out. NyoGel 760G literally takes years to dry out. Got mine off the manufacturer site. Kinda pricey but you know you are getting the real thing. Lubing lights...what you are actually trying to do is first make sure the threads are clean on either end if applicable. Remove any O rings. Take some 760G I just used my finger tip and slab down the O ring. This keeps the O ring from drying out. It also is critical to sealing the light from water getting inside. Before you put the O ring back on apply 760G to the bottom say two threads of either end applicable(some lights only unscrew at one end). Carefully apply the gel to the bottom two threads somewhat liberally no need to go overboard. Put the O ring back on. Screw the light back together. Slowly unscrew and re tighten a couple of times. This works the gel thoroughly along the threads without going so high as to get onto the flat end of the tube which is an electrical connection point. From here on out your lights water resistance should be pretty solid and should you have to unscrew an end it should be nice and easy. The gel also helps greatly in water resistance.

Some people poo poo lubing up their lights. When you are a collector like myself and have many thousands of dollars invested in lights I make sure to take care of them as such. Some lights come pre lubed from the factory which is great. Some dont. Always check. There need not be so much gel on the threads that when tightened it squeezes out the sides. I generally only do the gel when a light shows up with the threads and O rings bone dry. Over time without lubing the threads will essentially grind into each other to the point they destroy each other.

Nyogel 760G as far as I know the best light lube there is. My L6 showed up bone dry. It got a sensible gel treatment. Love it. Never thought I would have such amazing output for such a low price.

wimmer21 said:

I've been wondering about this, but I've not been involved for very long so I really didn't know if I needed to lubricate my lights. Anyone have any advice they'd like to share?

Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

Hiya Wimmer! :wave:
CelticCross74 made another great post here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...esn-t-Hold-Up-Over-Time&p=4920308#post4920308 (read from his first post in this thread)

It's about using DeOxit red D100 spray cans, Lint free cloths & Nyogel 760G (he sure knows what he's doing :thumbsup

I'm going to buy all of the above to take better care of my lights.

Thank you both so much. It's remarkable to me how many fine people, who frequent this site, will take the time and effort as have the two above.

thanks folks. Learned a lot during my years on the forums. DeOxit is pretty cheap for what it can do and what it does is pretty darn impressive especially if you have lights that change modes via head twists. For some odd reason NyoGel 760G was really hard to find for a long time so when I saw a couple 25g tubes come up for sale I jumped on it. Armytek does things very strangely. I do not like the way they do business at all but their products are well...usually..first rate and they utterly slather 760G all over the threads of all the lights I have gotten from them. So much so I had to wipe some off the flat end point of the threads it was interfering with the electrical path. AT's have double O rings on both ends of their tubes...yet only include two replacement rings.

DeOxit purposely meant to break up corrosion on metal electrical contact surfaces, clean it and lube it. I think I have 15 Eagletacs(kinda lost count)all but two of them use the head twist method. They do indeed say specifically in their manuals to use DeOxit from time to time to keep the contact points clean, lubed to keep the electrical path clear. There is DeOxit Gold now but am not sold on it as doing what DeOxit red does yet. The lint free cloths they sell to wipe up any excess are very nice.

Only time I have seen DeOxit harden up a bit is when I scored a new old stock V2.5 Pred Pro that had apparently just sat in a warehouse for 5 years. Took it apart, the NyoGel had stiffened up a bit. Cleaned the threads with rubbing alcohol and a tooth brush very carefully. Cleaned the original O rings as well. Dried everything off and went to work with fresh NyoGel and a moderate DeOxit treatment. Now instead of being stiff to turn the head its sweet and easy. The V2.5 has the UI of a Rubiks Cube though I have still yet to fully program it lol...man the V2.5Pred Pro is XPG2 at its utter finest.

^^Great stuff there, CelticCross74. I am now off in search of the products you've recommended! Thanks again.