What do you recommend that has a moonlight mode, less than 1 lumen, is less than abou

I love my Quark, but I've had it five years and it's time for another EDC light.

What format? AA, AAA, 18650, something else?

Hi, I have a armytek prime c2 warm. Non pro. Its simple, small, feels well made, has a nice tint and smooth beam, can always shortcut to firefly at turn on.
Thanks ant

I am really enjoying my Thrunight Archer AAv3 with the warm tint.

I agree with chrisbfu...and/or if you are looking for an AAA light the ThruNite Ti3 with neutral white is another great choice.

I'm flexible on batteries. AA, AAA, 123, are all considerations. Don't know about 18650. What is it?
Oh, price under $100.

18650 is a Li-on that is used in laptop batteries and vary from 1500-3500 mAh. They aren't found in common stores like the AA or AAA are and they are in a different cost division as well. Lots of people like them for their larger power output lights.

Here is a cool site on different batteries: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_battery_sizes

Here is an illustration on size difference: http://www.kaayee.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/18650-vs-AA-battery-2.jpg

18650 is the size of 2 123s but rechargeable so you will save on cost in the long run .

Quarks started me on a sub-/low-lumen efficiency and battery versatility fanaticism. Tried a bunch of lights (and several more since then) in an attempt to beat them, but have been unsuccessful for those priorities. Ended up buying a bunch Quarks on good sales before all the good ones were gone.

My favorite are low voltage Quark heads running 16650s (~2/3rds capacity of an 18650) since they'll also run anything that fits in the tube (eg, 9V, AAA, AA, CR123, etc.), if in a pinch.

Google Zebralight!

They have sublumen modes and come in AA & 18650 configurations.

Zebralights also have a unique UI though, and switching between the 2 lowest sublumen modes is tedious.

They are great lights though. I just bought a second H602w. Literally less than 10 minutes ago!

All Zebralights have this too.

Drift Monkey said:

All Zebralights have this too.

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Ditto on the Zebralight!

Switching between the 2 lowest sublumen levels is tedious, but these are great lights!

For AAA size, the Thrunite Ti HI is on clearance under $20. It has a cool white XP-L HI, titanium body, and the modes of a Ti3. The Astrolux A01/BLF A01 is an inexpensive high CRI option.
For AA it is hard to beat the Zebralight SC5W. Neutral white, high customization that includes multiple sublumen modes, solid build quality, fantastic efficiency and lumen output all come together to make an excellent EDC.
The L3 Illuminations L10/L11C are basic but effective and affordable high CRI options in this format.
CR123A I'm not as familiar with but I have and enjoy my Olight S1. The Eagletac D25C is another good option.
Hope that helps!

Limu said:

Ditto on the Zebralight!

Switching between the 2 lowest sublumen levels is tedious, but these are great lights!

Click to expand...

I usually just use the lowest sublumen level (0.01 lm)...perfect for the middle of the night!

Drift Monkey said:

I usually just use the lowest sublumen level (0.01 lm)...perfect for the middle of the night!

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I used the .34lm on my SC52w a lot last night. I wasn't fully asleep yet, so I didn't need the 0.01 yet. Great light!

I keep that .34lmmode programmed as my L2. With L1 permanently at 2.7lm, it's a very nice setup. If I'm camping or doing a lot of nighttime use, I'll program the 0.06 as L2.

The important thing to remember is that it's not quite "switching" as much as "programming these sub-modes. Think of it like a car. When you switch a mode (L1 to L2), it's like simply putting the car in 4WD. When programming (L2a to L2b), it's like actually switching the all season tires to winter tires. More work, but worth the effort if the conditions call for it.

What great replies. Thank you all.
I'll look into the Zebralight and others. I will think about the 18650.

manker u11 has .07 lumen
too dim really though
wle

gonna take some heat for this but my recently bought SRT3 goes about as low before turn off as I have yet seen..of course then there is ZL anything....

The Thrunite Titanium AAA has Terribly Gritty Threads, I dont recommend it. The tint is terrible, its low CRI, and the low and medium are VERY dim.. you can do better imo

The L11c offers a 90+ CRI Nichia with .09 Low and uses 1x AA battery. This is the light I recommend.

The Zebra SC5 is more than twice as heavy as the L11c, and more than twice as expensive, and Zebra does not come with 90+ CRI Nicha. But people LOVE the UI and wide range of modes that can be user customized. It is also the Brightest single AA I can think of atm.

maybe someone can post a photo of the L11c and SC5 side by side (I dont have a Zebra)

jon_slider said:

The Thrunite Titanium AAA has Terribly Gritty Threads, I dont recommend it. The tint is terrible, its low CRI, and the low and medium are VERY dim.. you can do better imo

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Thrunite is frustrating with their model identifiers and material. Ti, as a material, is notorious for gritty thread action. I wouldn't blame that model. Which tint? Which Ti? "low and medium very dim," and efficient, with NO PWM CC circuit, and sane LMH interface; I would expect Thrunite's .04/12/120 interface would be a serious contender for someone specifically requesting a subluminal mode.