I want to build something like sinners edc or over readys lights. Can i get a driver, host and the other info i will.need to safely create a torch such as this? I would like a high medium and low setting built in. The 3k plus does and will not be ran for a extended time.
Can someone give me a setup for a 3k lumen pocket sized build
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ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond
Flashlight Enthusiast
That's a tall order for a pocket light. Getting 3000 lumens out of a 18350 will be hard because of the voltage drop under load. Even with a 18650 you be pushing around 8 Amps fully charged best case - which won't quite get you to 3000 lumens. Your best bet would be something in a XP-L triple using a FET based driver. Most of the components can be had over at Mtn Electronics. Using the convoy S2 as a host might work but you'll likely need to turn down the PCB and optic a bit to fit.
Maybe something in a XHP-70 setup with 2 x 18350 cells?
Maybe something in a XHP-70 setup with 2 x 18350 cells?
Fireclaw18
Flashlight Enthusiast
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How about modding a Manker E14:
What you need:
* Manker E14 or Astrolight S41 flashlight. They're the same light under different labels. You can buy them from Amazon, DX or Banggood.
* 18650 battery tube. Available from Banggood.
* DrJones H17F driver. Available from Mountain Electronics. This is the most advanced and best clicky driver available. Has a temp sensor, moonlight, FET, and double-click shortcut to turbo. All modes are fully programmable. You can also add or delete modes at will.
* Four XPL HI emitters with your choice of tint. I recommend 5,000K neutral white. Usually available from Mountain Electronics or International Outdoors.
* Samsung 30Q 18650 battery
* Wire for spring bypass. 22 gauge copper with silicone insulation works well.
* Thermal grease. I prefer Arctic Silver 5 from Mountain Electronics
* Solder and soldering iron. I prefer solder paste from Mountain Electronics. It's easier to work with than wire solder. I use an old 40-watt iron.
* Basic soldering skills.
* Basic tools - small vise, tweezers, micro phillips screwdriver, etc.
Instructions:
* Disassemble the head of the light. This is the hardest part of the entire mod because the head may be glued. If it is I suggest strap wrenches and a lot of muscle.
* remove desolder the LED leads from the star and remove the star.
* reflow the old LEDs off the star and replace them with your LEDs. To make the light safer, reverse the polarity of the LEDs by rotating them 180 degrees and then connect the positive red driver wire to the negative bondpad on the star. This is a to protect against a quirk of this particular star where the screw holes come dangeorusly close to positive. Reflowing is easy: I place the star in a small wooden vise then heat the underside with my 40w soldering iron. When the entire star gets hot enough all the solder will melt. Remove the LEDs with tweezers and replace with the new ones.
* Remove the stock thermal compound with a Q-tip and spread a thin layer of AS5 thermal grease on the heatsink platform. Then install the star, screw it down and solder the leads.
* Unscrew and remove the driver retaining ring. Remove the driver. Replace with H17F driver.
* Solder up driver leads and then test the light to make sure it works.
* If all goes well perform a spring bypass on the battery compartment springs. I prefer to use 22 gauge wire instead of solder braid as the wire lasts much longer. I keep the wire inside the spring at the head to prevent a short. At the tail I wrap it around the outside of the spring.
* Replace the 18350 battery tube with the 18650 tube and load in your Samsung 30Q.
Resulting light is a quad-XPL HI, on a large chunk of copper with a direct drive FET driver. On a fresh 30Q it should easily do 3000 lumens out-the-front. Note however, that like any FET driver output will decline as voltage drops. The copper head will also get VERY hot. This won't hurt the light or you as long as you hold it by the aluminum body tube, but you will need to wait for the head to cool before placing it in your pocket. I also suggest setting the driver's temp sensor to its most sensitive setting.
I performed this mod myself. Mine wasn't glued making the entire mod pretty simple. Output is VERY high... my second brightest light after my 6300 lumen 4x18650 Noctigon M43. Beam pattern of the E14 is excellent... better than triples with the Carclo 10507 optic.
What you need:
* Manker E14 or Astrolight S41 flashlight. They're the same light under different labels. You can buy them from Amazon, DX or Banggood.
* 18650 battery tube. Available from Banggood.
* DrJones H17F driver. Available from Mountain Electronics. This is the most advanced and best clicky driver available. Has a temp sensor, moonlight, FET, and double-click shortcut to turbo. All modes are fully programmable. You can also add or delete modes at will.
* Four XPL HI emitters with your choice of tint. I recommend 5,000K neutral white. Usually available from Mountain Electronics or International Outdoors.
* Samsung 30Q 18650 battery
* Wire for spring bypass. 22 gauge copper with silicone insulation works well.
* Thermal grease. I prefer Arctic Silver 5 from Mountain Electronics
* Solder and soldering iron. I prefer solder paste from Mountain Electronics. It's easier to work with than wire solder. I use an old 40-watt iron.
* Basic soldering skills.
* Basic tools - small vise, tweezers, micro phillips screwdriver, etc.
Instructions:
* Disassemble the head of the light. This is the hardest part of the entire mod because the head may be glued. If it is I suggest strap wrenches and a lot of muscle.
* remove desolder the LED leads from the star and remove the star.
* reflow the old LEDs off the star and replace them with your LEDs. To make the light safer, reverse the polarity of the LEDs by rotating them 180 degrees and then connect the positive red driver wire to the negative bondpad on the star. This is a to protect against a quirk of this particular star where the screw holes come dangeorusly close to positive. Reflowing is easy: I place the star in a small wooden vise then heat the underside with my 40w soldering iron. When the entire star gets hot enough all the solder will melt. Remove the LEDs with tweezers and replace with the new ones.
* Remove the stock thermal compound with a Q-tip and spread a thin layer of AS5 thermal grease on the heatsink platform. Then install the star, screw it down and solder the leads.
* Unscrew and remove the driver retaining ring. Remove the driver. Replace with H17F driver.
* Solder up driver leads and then test the light to make sure it works.
* If all goes well perform a spring bypass on the battery compartment springs. I prefer to use 22 gauge wire instead of solder braid as the wire lasts much longer. I keep the wire inside the spring at the head to prevent a short. At the tail I wrap it around the outside of the spring.
* Replace the 18350 battery tube with the 18650 tube and load in your Samsung 30Q.
Resulting light is a quad-XPL HI, on a large chunk of copper with a direct drive FET driver. On a fresh 30Q it should easily do 3000 lumens out-the-front. Note however, that like any FET driver output will decline as voltage drops. The copper head will also get VERY hot. This won't hurt the light or you as long as you hold it by the aluminum body tube, but you will need to wait for the head to cool before placing it in your pocket. I also suggest setting the driver's temp sensor to its most sensitive setting.
I performed this mod myself. Mine wasn't glued making the entire mod pretty simple. Output is VERY high... my second brightest light after my 6300 lumen 4x18650 Noctigon M43. Beam pattern of the E14 is excellent... better than triples with the Carclo 10507 optic.
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Skeeterg
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2016
- Messages
- 325
To the OP,if you are serious about this build I have an E14 I can give you a very good deal.
Damn, the only thing that post was missing was some images. Makes me want to do this build now. Super good work FC18!
Yeah as what SOYCD has said, I have found that 3k+ builds will require in most cases more then a single IMR cell, probably 2x IMR 18350s to deliver the required power, for a 3k lumen build, I would normally choose an aluminium host, xhp50 on copper star and a FET driver or 6A 7135 stacked, springs bypassed with copper wires, can easily hit 3k lumens on fully charged batteries
My brightest build is currently a Led lenser F1R with its XML replaced with a XHP50 on copper and driver changed to 6A 7135, using back the special TIR optic, definitely more then 3k lumens and is so bright it can smoke up newspaper almost immediately
Of course at 3k lumens and 2 X 18350 runtime we are not even talking short run times..
@Fireclaw18, yeah E14 nichia is the most wonderful beam and tint i have seen so far.. am in the progress of making a new mod
My brightest build is currently a Led lenser F1R with its XML replaced with a XHP50 on copper and driver changed to 6A 7135, using back the special TIR optic, definitely more then 3k lumens and is so bright it can smoke up newspaper almost immediately
Of course at 3k lumens and 2 X 18350 runtime we are not even talking short run times..
@Fireclaw18, yeah E14 nichia is the most wonderful beam and tint i have seen so far.. am in the progress of making a new mod
Im likely going to follow fireclaws write up and build it with 4 xpl HI emitters which if i could power it correctly should give 4k lumens. Or at least thats what they say they are capable of. But of course have a 20% mode programmed into the driver along with others so its actually useable lol
I just recieved the manker e14 in the mail. After i reflow and do the bypass how long will the light be able to attain 3k+ lumens without stepping down or becoming so hot it unsolders my leads? I have to buy the led (4) and the driver yet. I ordered the 18650 tube already.
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Well I have used it on high for a few minutes and while it did get hot, i don't think there's any danger of the leads unsoldering due to the the big chunk of copper, in fact just trying to unsolder them with a soldering iron is a pain as the heat transfers really fast (or my soldering iron is really sucky haha)
Anyway the manker's innards have been transplated to another light so its a empty shell now.. am waiting for replacement optics and XP-Ls to try a 6v dual XPL in series with x2 18350 build, would be insanely bright
thedodgedud
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2013
- Messages
- 192
You need to do a spring bypass. Good conductive wire soldered from the base to top of spring to have current go through, to keep the spring from getting so hot
Skeeterg
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2016
- Messages
- 325
Should be doing some pics with this project..
I think the tir optics is better here as 4 emitters in such small haed the reflectors would be very small so you won't get throw
Mybe an xhp50 with reflector would be better for that
And surely xhp35 but it can only deliver 2500lm even mybe 2700lm but it would have much better throw
But a quad xpl 3000lm floody light sounds amazing why change it
