ZebraLight SC5w field use review.

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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Prologue.


I believe, unless mistaken the SC5 and SC5w are the brightest 1XAA (using common battery types) production flashlights made today. This and the extreme low modes are what drew me to the gear item. My first encounter with ZL was the H50 1XAA headlamp nearly a decade ago followed by the H501 and H501w. On occasion I still use these headlamps. For a time (years ago) there were reported quality control issues so I kept away however never had a problem with my headlamps though the H501 was only used on one outing. Despite having a fantastic vanilla CW tint the "w" version always got more play. As time past reports of quality control problems were replaced with praise for the brand so decided to buy one of their flashlights. Last year, I think around autumn purchased a ZL SC5w. So now finally it's time for the review.


ZebraLight SC5w field use review.





Stats and UI information for ZebraLight.


http://www.zebralight.com/SC5w-AA-Flashlight-Neutral-White-OP_p_169.html


Main Features and Specifications


LED: Cree XM-L2 Neutral White (Nominal CCT 4400K)
User Selectable Levels: 3 main levels (High, Medium and Low). Each main level can be programmed to one of its two sub-levels. The second sub-level of the each main levels can be further programmed to different brightness levels.
Light Output (runtimes)
High: H1 500 Lm (3min, then 304lm, total 0.8 hr) or H2 304 Lm (0.9 hr) / 187 Lm (1.8 hrs) / 107 Lm (3.5 hrs)
Medium: M1 45 Lm (8.5 hrs) or M2 19 Lm (16.5 hrs) / 7.5 Lm (42 hrs)
Low: L1 3.0 Lm (4 days) or L2 1.0 Lm (16 days) / 0.28 Lm (50 days) / 0.1 Lm (4 months)
Beacon Strobe Mode: 4Hz Strobe at H1 / 19Hz Strobe at H1
Light output are ANSI out the front (OTF) values. Runtimes tested (and parasitic drain estimated) using Panasonic Eneloop Pro AA batteries. Remaining battery power, about 10-20%, after step-down are not counted towards the runtimes.
Operating Voltage Range: 0.7V - 2.0V
Battery: One AA size NiMH, lithium or alkaline battery. Panasonic Eneloop or Eneloop Pro is highly recommended. Batteries are not included in the box.
Parasitic Drain: 2.4 uA (much less than the self discharging of a battery)
Beam Type
80 degree spill
10 degree hot spot
Dimensions
Head Diameter: 1.0 inch (25.4 mm)
Length: 3.2 inch (81.3 mm)
Weight
2.0 oz (58 gram)
Features
Battery capacity indicator (LED flashes 1-4 times, 4 short clicks to start)
All levels are current regulated
Automatic stepping down from High to Medium, and from Medium to Low when battery capacity is low
Durable electronic soft-touch switch
Smart user interface provides fast and easy access to all brightness levels and beacon-strobes.
Precision machined unibody casing from premium grade aluminum bar stocks
Proprietary heat sinking design bonds the LED board directly to the unibody aluminum casing
Durable natural hard anodized finish (Type III Class I)
Sealed and potted LED driver circuitry
Battery reverse polarity protection
Tempered optical grade glass
Preinstalled bezel down pocket clip
Orange peel reflector
Battery power can be disconnected by slightly unscrewing the tailcap to prevent unwanted activations or parasitic drain


Operations.


This light has 3 main levels (High, Medium, and Low) and a beacon-strobe mode. Each main level can be programmed to one of its two sub-levels. The second sub-level of each main levels can be further programmed to different brightness levels.


Basic Operation
One short-click turns on the light to High or turns off the light.
Two short-click turns on the light to Medium.
Three short-click turns on the light to the beacon-strobe mode.
Press and hold (for over 0.6 seconds) turns on the light to Low and then Medium and High. Release at the desired level.
Advanced Operation and Configuration
Press and hold to cycle from Low, Medium and High, release at the desired level to set. When press and hold, the light always cycle from Low to High regardless which level you are currently in.
Double click to toggle and select between the two sub-levels for that main level. Sub-level selections for the 3 main levels are memorized after the light is turned off and through battery changes.
The second sub-level (H2, M2 and L2) of each main levels can be further programmed to different brightness levels. At a main level, double-click 6 times to start configuration. On subsequent double-clicks the light will cycle through different brightness levels. Short click to turn off the light when finishing configurations. The selections for the second sub-levels are memorized after the light is turned off and through battery changes.
This light uses the main LED (flashing 1 to 4 times) to indicate the estimated remaining capacity of the battery. To start the battery indicator, (from Off) short-click 4 times without pause.
Beacon-strobe mode can be accessed from 3 short-clicks when the light is Off. Once in the beacon-strobe mode, you can double-click to cycle through different types of beacons and strobes. Beacon-strobe settings are memorized when the light is turned off and through battery changes.


Lets take a look at it. The switch is set into the body to help prevent accidental activation. It feels like a quality switch and so far no issues. Lettering looks fairly crisp though that's cosmetic in nature. Still gear which fails cosmetics often has other deeper issue issues. This looks good.





The LED is properly centered.





Compared to a Fenix LD10 with XP-G1. The reflector seems larger than the LD10 though the XM-L2 LED is also larger. This will mitigate some throw but the beam seems like a good compromise between flood and throw.





At 500 lumens for the NW and 545 for CW one might expect such a small light to cook however it really doesn't seem to overheat. The shape reminds me of a larger 1XCR123 light. It doesn't fit in any 1XAA sheath and despite spending 70 dollars it came without one. Going to add that to my list of cons. I do find the sheath from my Armytek C1 fits. Still the lack of a sheath resulted in a few scratches on the window not that over time dings and scrapes won't happen with EDC stuff. Compared to the Fenix LD10 which is on the larger size for a 1XAA IMO.





So how does it not cook the LED with so much light from a 1XAA pocket rocket? I think a few factors comes into play. ZL is good at pushing the limits with electronics. The light has a good deal of mass and proper heat sinking. Also has these fins. But on the downside the extra mass does make it feel heavier/bulkier than some 1XAA clicky and twisty lights out there.





I don't use the clip for anything other than a lanyard so can't comment beyond it feels tight. I think it might be too tight for it's own good.





The threads are really nice and O-ring large. I have no fear of them wearing out anytime soon. The entire light feels solid. The company claims the electronics are potted but never verified this by inspection. Not willing to beak open a 70 dollar flashlight.





To me this tail cap is unusual. It has 7 little posts which have some give almost like there is a little spring or something inside each. They don't dig into a battery and maintain positive contact though wonder how they would behave during a drop with battery slamming into tail. I only dropped it a few times by mistake onto leaf litter so not sure. Just an unknown factor for me. Looks cool and I guess that counts for something. The light easily locks out by a small twist of the cap. Lockout is an important feature to me.





Field use.


The UI information is shown under the manufacture link and the modes can be seen in the long winded video. Here are some photos for those who don't have the time or inclination to watch video. Heck it's over 20 minutes long so I don't blame anyone who doesn't. LOL! It takes much more time to do this on the move in the woods out of a backpack which is the nature of my field use reviews hence why the videos tend to be longer.


The highest setting which is 500 lumens. I visually compared it to lights of similar ratings (though they weren't using 1XAA NiMH) and found the manufacture's numbers at least visually comparable. The high will step down to 304 lumens after 3 minutes to protect the LED.


Highest of the high settings.





Highest of the medium settings.





Lowest of the low settings nearly point blank into a tree. I believe there are 3 low modes in the programming menu. During actual operation the user will have two low modes to pick from. I have read the light uses PWM for some modes however can't visually detect this. I am sensitive to PWM pulsing so if I can't see it odds are you won't. One of the lowest modes I own.





Dunk/submersion test. This was done in a stream using no measured depth or time. I just put the SC5w into the stream then walked away to take a wiz. It was hot and drank lots of water during the hike. This part always gives me concern was it would be a shame if a 70 dollar flashlight died. That said I would rather know if the rating is reasonably true in a controlled setting than during a time of dire need. I had a backup headlamp.





In it goes. Not sure how long it takes to walk 100 feet from a steam, take a wiz and return but that's how long it was submersed. That said in the real world I surely would remove a light which slipped from my hands into water much faster so IMHO this was a fair test.





And it survived the swim. No water visible in the bezel or tail cap.





The night climbing/bouldering test. I prefer to use a headlamp for this but as often pack a backup flashlight it's very possible I may need to scamper and climb out of a tight spot using a backup light. Done it in the past so include this during a field use test. Still it's not preferable as one hand is taken up holding the flashlight which complicates the 3 points of contact rule. Always keep 3 points of contact in rough terrain.





Made it down ok but still not the funnest part of any flashlight test.





Also did a running test which is on the video. The wide beam still had enough throw to run over rocky ground without concern of missing anything important which could result in a slip, trip or fall. This would be bad news as there is a problem bear in the area.


closing comments.


Cons:


There seems to be a lag between pressing the button off and the light actually turning off. I think this is part of the UI and not an actual problem with the gear item. Doesn't effect the usefulness in the field. There seems to be an undocumented low battery warning system once the light runs down. It's in the video and not a problem with the UI, in fact it's a pro but rather unexpected. Downside of a complex UI is thing can be discovered months into ownership. The easy access to hi mode is sometimes too easy. I had a battery unexpectedly run down during storage but now believe this might have been user error or a battery issue. Actually it happened twice but can't reproduce the problem. It might be too heavy for those who are used to the most UL 1XAA pocket lights. No single click to medium. Just wish it had that but technically not really a con as ZL never claimed it would do that. I want a sheath when spending 70 dollars on a 1XAA flashlight but understand that there are other lights sold without one.


Pros:


Dang! It's both my brightest and maybe dimmest light. They're not lying about the performance. The heat sinking appears really good. The anodizing, lettering, threads, switch and about everything else appears to be quality. The LED is centered and has very pleasing NW tint. Overall it's a very good flashlight. Don't let my longer winded cons make it seem like I don't like the gear item. Just not sure what to say beyond it's really good!


Here is a video review.


 

Connor

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Nice review, thank you!

re: UI lag
This is indeed the electronics waiting a set amount of time to see if you double-clicked - or not. Kind of unavoidable in a complex single-button UI.
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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Nice review, thank you!

re: UI lag
This is indeed the electronics waiting a set amount of time to see if you double-clicked - or not. Kind of unavoidable in a complex single-button UI.

I bet you are right. I do like the UI of my Amytek Primes better as can just one click on and off the last mode. Almost acts like a single mode light. Really like the ZL size for the output though. Also prefer the Tint ZL picked for their NW which is more NW than yellow though don't have an issue with yellow so long as it does not morph in green. Thanks for looking!
 

ZMZ67

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Great review ! I have been using the SC5 at work and appreciate the performance.The UI is my biggest con with the lag I seem to jump to the wrong modes at times though it works as advertised. I have better luck with the UI on my Olight S1 but it doesn't quite offer the same performance as the SC5w and SC32w I also have. Using standard eneloops battery life may a little short(I use the high burst mostly)although it is not really an issue being a rechargeable light.Dropped the SC5w quite a few times on concrete floor with no issues other than some minor cosmetic damage so it appears to be fairly rugged.All in all an impressive little light without the need to use li-ion.
 
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liteboy

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Thanks for review! Seems like a great backup shtf light that's is rugged and can take regular batteries.
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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Great review ! I have been using the SC5 at work and appreciate the performance.The UI is my biggest con with the lag I seem to jump to the wrong modes at times though it works as advertised. I have better luck with the UI on my Olight S1 but it doesn't quite offer the same performance as the SC5w and SC32w I also have. Using standard eneloops battery life may a little short(I use the high burst mostly)although it is not really an issue being a rechargeable light.Dropped the SC5w quite a few times on concrete floor with no issues other than some minor cosmetic damage so it appears to be fairly rugged.All in all an impressive little light without the need to use li-ion.

I am not the biggest fan of the UI either though like the programming. Great to hear it survived the drops. Potted electronics was another reason for the purchase. Actually that was what pushed me over the edge. Going to pack it for a 25 mile hike on the AT tomorrow. Maybe I will do 50 miles. Have not decided but have 4 days though it will be nearly 100 F. Dang pack is 35 lbs and those hills are kinda high. Thanks for looking!


Always enjoy your reviews WW!


Thanks brother!




Thanks for review! Seems like a great backup shtf light that's is rugged and can take regular batteries.


I like it can get lithium ion brightness out of NiMH. That's neat! Thanks for looking!
 

LetThereBeLight!

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Woods Walker, you are such a cool dude & your reviews are very good as well as fair.

I give you a thumbs up:thumbsup:!
 
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Warp

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Thanks for the review.

Personally I consider the lack of included sheath a pro...I almost never use them and hate the fact that I am forced to pay for them when I buy so many lights.

I may yet have to get one of these. We still use my old SC51w around the house and I EDC an SC62w so I don't exactly need an SC5w too, but that output on a AA NiMh...geez.
 

jon_slider

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thanks for the real world impressions

technically the current oscillation pulses Zebralight uses are not PWM, they help prolong battery life. Other companies that use pulses are Eagletac and HDS.

Does your Zebra have any circuit noise, whine?

Here is maukkas review

Spectral distribution (H1)
ZXCrgV4.png



PWM
PWM is used to control output on all modes except H1. The PWM is not visible to the eye, because of its low amplitude, but possibly shows up on camera. The cycling frequency is higher on higher output modes and ranges from 775 Hz to 5000 Hz. The amplitude however is higher on the higher modes.
...
Oscilloscope screenshot at H2 ("81 lm").

Ioxjbn9.png

I wouldn't worry about it if you're not going to use the flashlight as a video or photography light. Because the output never drops to zero like in a traditional PWM, it is very difficult if not impossible to see with the naked eye. I cannot see it even if I wave the light itself or my hand in front of it like a madman.

Does someone know if this sort of low amplitude modulation is actually even called pulse width modulation or is it something else altogether?

I call it pulses, or current oscillations, not technically PWM. The good news is they dont show up when waving the light. For reference, Malkoff uses PWM at 310hz. Maratac (by Lumintop, also Tool and Worm used to use PWM at 200hz, they now use constant current. Prometheus Beta copper (by Lumintop) also uses the older Lumintop PWM driver. Zebralight is using pulses at 775 Hz to 5000 Hz.
 
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liteboy

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Thanks for the review.

Personally I consider the lack of included sheath a pro...I almost never use them and hate the fact that I am forced to pay for them when I buy so many lights.

I may yet have to get one of these. We still use my old SC51w around the house and I EDC an SC62w so I don't exactly need an SC5w too, but that output on a AA NiMh...geez.

I usually agree with this sentiment as I have lots of unused generic sheaths made for cylindrical lights. However, in the case of zZL's with the odd shaped head and beefy body preventing easy pocket carry, I would like not to have to waste time finding an aftermarket holster, otherwise no easy way to carry this light for me...
 

blah9

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Awesome review! Thank you for sharing. I have never bought a ZebraLight but maybe I should. It would be great to have a small single AA light that gets that bright.
 

tops2

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Nice review!

I love mine still, but as some here have mentioned too...this light is a bit large for comfortable EDC to me. It occupies an awkward position for me.

Its not small enough (mostly in head diameter) and not light in weight as an AA light to me as a comfortable pocket EDC. The SC52w or SC32w would probably be more comfortable in size and weight.

And for increased the size and weight, especially for those who have smaller 18650 lights, I prefer a smaller 18650 light (ie: Zebralight SC600w MKIII, S63w, or Zebralight headlamps) for even increase in power and much longer runtimes.


I'd only recommend this light to someone who wants a powerful AA light, don't want to move to li-ion, and don't mind a larger pocket carry light.

Don't get me wrong, I still really really like this light. I just don't use it anymore after getting the Zebralight H600Fd. But this light is my gateway to more Zebralights.
 

ZMZ67

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I am not the biggest fan of the UI either though like the programming. Great to hear it survived the drops. Potted electronics was another reason for the purchase. Actually that was what pushed me over the edge. Going to pack it for a 25 mile hike on the AT tomorrow. Maybe I will do 50 miles. Have not decided but have 4 days though it will be nearly 100 F. Dang pack is 35 lbs and those hills are kinda high. Thanks for looking!

25 miles with a 35lb. pack,in this heat,maybe 50.........:bow: Getting back to the SC5w I like the real world review you offer. Let us know how battery life works out for you. I have easy access to spares while at work and it is not a problem for me but shorter battery life has been a complaint from others. Whatever the faults of the SC5 I am still amazed at the performance from a single NiMH battery.
 

Warp

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I usually agree with this sentiment as I have lots of unused generic sheaths made for cylindrical lights. However, in the case of zZL's with the odd shaped head and beefy body preventing easy pocket carry, I would like not to have to waste time finding an aftermarket holster, otherwise no easy way to carry this light for me...

In that case I would vote for the manufacturer offering a sheath/holster as an optional accessory for more $, rather than forcing every buyer to pay for one when an awful lot won't use it.

I guess I"d be with the above poster who says it's an awkward size for carry. IF it's too bulky for a pocket and needs to go in a sheath, I would much rather have a larger light since there is no need...IMO anyway...to go as small as a compact 1xAAA when it's going in a sheath.
 

liteboy

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In that case I would vote for the manufacturer offering a sheath/holster as an optional accessory for more $, rather than forcing every buyer to pay for one when an awful lot won't use it.

I guess I"d be with the above poster who says it's an awkward size for carry. IF it's too bulky for a pocket and needs to go in a sheath, I would much rather have a larger light since there is no need...IMO anyway...to go as small as a compact 1xAAA when it's going in a sheath.

I hear what you're saying. None of the reasons I haven't pulled the trigger yet. It's kind of neither here nor there . I thinking maybe a good glovebox light but then again, AA alkaline is not best suited for this use...
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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thanks for the real world impressions

technically the current oscillation pulses Zebralight uses are not PWM, they help prolong battery life. Other companies that use pulses are Eagletac and HDS.

Does your Zebra have any circuit noise, whine?

No noise and thanks for the info.
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
Joined
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Messages
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New England woods.
I am not the biggest fan of the UI either though like the programming. Great to hear it survived the drops. Potted electronics was another reason for the purchase. Actually that was what pushed me over the edge. Going to pack it for a 25 mile hike on the AT tomorrow. Maybe I will do 50 miles. Have not decided but have 4 days though it will be nearly 100 F. Dang pack is 35 lbs and those hills are kinda high. Thanks for looking!

25 miles with a 35lb. pack,in this heat,maybe 50.........:bow: Getting back to the SC5w I like the real world review you offer. Let us know how battery life works out for you. I have easy access to spares while at work and it is not a problem for me but shorter battery life has been a complaint from others. Whatever the faults of the SC5 I am still amazed at the performance from a single NiMH battery.

Ended up being more like 60 miles, some days did 20 to cover the ground in the time allowed. Lots of hills and 2 night hikes to 1 AM. It was over 90F with high humility and water was tight. I only used one lithium ion and then a NiMH in the Tiara Pro and the SC5w still has the same battery. I only used it a few times as the headlamp did most of the heavy lifting. Some of the night hike action was a bit risky aka steep edges etc.
 
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Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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New England woods.
In that case I would vote for the manufacturer offering a sheath/holster as an optional accessory for more $, rather than forcing every buyer to pay for one when an awful lot won't use it.

I guess I"d be with the above poster who says it's an awkward size for carry. IF it's too bulky for a pocket and needs to go in a sheath, I would much rather have a larger light since there is no need...IMO anyway...to go as small as a compact 1xAAA when it's going in a sheath.

I used the sheath from Armytek C1 then added a bright lanyard and reflective loop for the hike. Thanks for looking!
 

ZMZ67

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Ended up being more like 60 miles, some days did 20 to cover the ground in the time allowed. Lots of hills and 2 night hikes to 1 AM. It was over 90F with high humility and water was tight. I only used one lithium ion and then a NiMH in the Tiara Pro and the SC5w still has the same battery. I only used it a few times as the headlamp did most of the heavy lifting. Some of the night hike action was a bit risky aka steep edges etc.

Always good to hear real world experience. I am changing the batteries on my SC5w fairly often but I generally use the highest setting. I think the night hikes would be preferable with the heat and humidity but I guess there are more risks to hiking at night.
 
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