EC11/EA11 MT10C/MT10A - can we swap bodies and heads?

I understand that the EC11 and EA11 heads will swap on their bodies, but does anyone know whether we can run MT10C/MT10A heads on EC11/EA11 bodies and other way around?

I tried swapping EC11 and MT10c, the MT10c head works on the EC11 body, but I had to use the tailcap as a twisty switch. The EC11 head didn't work on the MT10c body. Welcome to CPF

I appreciate the response. What was the problem with the EC11 head on the MT10C body? It screws on but doesn't light? Good to know regardless, I was considering adding the MT series to the kit but if it doesn't play well with the EC/EA11's... like I say good to know.

Ten+ years ago I was a reasonably active member but got all my lights in order and was distracted by other things. I wandered away from the site for a spell and my old login/email wasn't recognized so I'm starting over. I always liked this forum. I've got a lot of interest in the lights/circuitry (I do this type of designing vocationally) and always appreciated the general tone and civility here.

After all this time I thought it would be good to see what the latest and greatest was and ended up replacing my ten+ year old EDC with the EC11 which I really like but the MT10C seems to have a better head, longer run times, slightly brighter - it's just a bit too long for my taste. Frankly the EC11 is a tad too wide but I think I can put up with it to get the features. I use red a lot so once I saw how bright a super small light can be today and include red - deal done!

SteveAZ the EC11 head with the MT10c body wouldn't turn on, I think maybe the tailswitch didn't function with the EC11 sideswitch. I like the EC11 when it's warm outside, but I had trouble when wearing gloves. So I got the MT10c because it is easy to turn on and off with gloves.

Also the MT10c has a much higher frequency pwm so it doesn't flicker like the EC11.

I also hadn't been following cpf for a while, so I bought quite a few lights since coming back a year ago. I keep telling myself just one more light, but there is always one more I want!

Again, I appreciate the feedback - I'll pull the trigger on the the MT10C. There's one local for $60. I'm not terribly concerned about the EC11 head on the MT10C body, the other way around is what's important to me. I've found the PWM on the EC11 to be a little annoying and the runtimes on the MT10C looks so much better.

This way I can run with the MT10C head on either body. Probably most often on the EC11 body since for EDC I don't want any larger and then when I'm wanting for a clicky I can put it back on the MT10C body. I immediately got into the habit of turning off the EC11 by turning the tail cap so I think using the MT10C head on the EC11 body and using the tail cap for the on/off will be very natural for me already.

Not sure what to do with the EC11 head. Maybe someone with a EA11 will want it. :thinking:

I got my MT10C. The head works as expected on the EC11 body and for me at least the EC11 head is working on the MT10C body although the UI is sort of nonsensical - sort of.

I really like the MT10C head a *lot* better than the EC11. I haven't got a lot of time on the MT10C yet but the red is much brighter. The red is only barely usable on the EC11 - you have to be very dark adapted and it has very poor throw. While I can see the PWM on the MT10C, so far it seems much better. I was really getting annoyed with the EC11 PWM. When I moved it quickly I'd see the strobe but I was out on my bicycle and a mild dust storm kicked up, I put the EC11 on my hat to augment the bicycle light and the stuff in the air blowing around looked crazy with the strobe effect of the PWM to the point of being very distracting. The tint on the MT10C is slightly better although both have a rather harsh tint and it may just be the luck of the draw.

The UI with the MT10C on the EC11 body would likely be a problem for plenty of folks but for me, so far I don't mind it. It would be nice if dimmed all the way it went into a standby state but twisting the cap for on/off is really natural for me.

I carry my EDC's generally unholstered in my pocket so having a very positive method of turning them off is super important for me. Turning a cap at least a half turn is the only thing that leaves me confident it won't get turned on accidentally. My last EDC (a ten year old Fenix P2D) had a clicky but I always turned the cap. The P2D is pretty much the same length (4.25mm longer) as these Nitecore's with the EC11 body but it is also 4mm narrower and with the additional girth of the EC11/MT10C I have a hard time with the MT10C overall length being >15mm longer. In the end, if I decide I don't like the twist without the clicky of the EC11 body I can probably stomach it but I'm going to run with the MT10C on the EC11 body for a while and see if it works for me.

The MT10C body on the EC11 head means that you might have to do three things to turn it on, so that's what I mean about it being a little nonsensical. On the other hand if I'm not carrying it in my pocket then leaving the tail turned is not entirely goofy. It doesn't turn on when you hit the clicky but it makes for an easy way to turn it off. I see me using this setup as a bedside light. When I hit the rack I turn it on and put it in the red light flash standby mode and place it head down on the nightstand so it's easy to find. In the morning, hit the clicky to turn it off.

Well we'll see how I manage the UI of the MT10C on the EC11 body. I think it will work for me and the times I know I'm not carrying it in my pocket (like out camping, etc. where I'll run with it in the holster or on my hat) then I can always put the clicky on for that. I'm going to force myself to use it sans clicky for a few weeks and then try it with before I draw a conclusion...