help me choose a new 1AA light

airwolf41 · Sep 16, 2016

I just got some eneloop batteries for the first time and want to buy a single cell AA light that can utilize those batteries and get the most bang for my buck. I have never owned a zebralight and was considering the SC5 and would be willing to get some eneloop pros.

I'm having a hard time understanding the different models, I guess the different tints and floodys are sort of self explanatory. Then there's one their calling the "high CRI Floody" and I'm completely lost on what that is even after doing a search.

Also while looking at the tests for the SC5 on this forum, I saw this company called Armytek, and in particular the partner A1. I can't tell through any searches if these lights are any good or not. They looked really robust and seemed to have decent output. Anybody like them? Lastly, I was considering the thrunite archer 1A v3 as it seemed decent for the money even though the output isn't the highest

I know this is probably an odd bunch I chose here, hoping to get any insight on these lights and welcome and recommendations for other lights that may be better. Thanks in advance.

ZMZ67 · Sep 16, 2016

airwolf41 said:
I just got some eneloop batteries for the first time and want to buy a single cell AA light that can utilize those batteries and get the most bang for my buck. I have never owned a zebralight and was considering the SC5 and would be willing to get some eneloop pros.

I'm having a hard time understanding the different models, I guess the different tints and floodys are sort of self explanatory. Then there's one their calling the "high CRI Floody" and I'm completely lost on what that is even after doing a search.

Also while looking at the tests for the SC5 on this forum, I saw this company called Armytek, and in particular the partner A1. I can't tell through any searches if these lights are any good or not. They looked really robust and seemed to have decent output. Anybody like them? Lastly, I was considering the thrunite archer 1A v3 as it seemed decent for the money even though the output isn't the highest

I know this is probably an odd bunch I chose here, hoping to get any insight on these lights and welcome and recommendations for other lights that may be better. Thanks in advance.

The SC5 will give you the most lumens from your eneloops but run time can be short if you use max output often.The SC52 doesn't offer the same max output as the SC5 on eneloops but is smaller and can use 14500 li-ions. Zebralights are pretty impressive performers my only complaint is the user interface but YMMV it does work as advertised.If you want max lumens on eneloops the SC5 is the way to go.If you want the ability to use all types of AA batteries the SC52 might be a better choice but you won't get 500 lumens on eneloops like you can with the SC5.High CRI floody provides a flood beam with better color rendition than standard models.I personally like the "w" versions but everyone is different.
I have no experience with Armytek or Thrunite.

Blades · Sep 16, 2016

The 2 AA lights I have used recently are the Nitecore EA11 and Olight S1A.
The Nitecore is extremely bright using an IMR battery. I don't have any eneloops(need to get some) but they won't be very bright in the Nitecore. They can run it, but it will be around 160 lumens.
The Olight is bright with a regular battery(220 lumens), and brighter still with a rechargeable.
I have had Zebralights in the past and liked them.

Good luck on your search.

LeanBurn · Sep 16, 2016

I can't address the ThruNite Archer 1A V3, but I have the V2 and it is a very good light. Take a look at the reviews. ThruNite makes really good products that are built well. Perhaps very good value for the money isn't high on many CPF members, but for me it is, so ThruNite is my benchmark upon which I compare.

holygeez03 · Sep 16, 2016

Strongly consider the H52w, or even better, the H52Fw... it is technically listed as a headlamp, but I rarely use it as such and it's the most useful light that I own by a wide margin.

I EDC it with the pocket clip... the right-angle is extremely handy as a small, portable work-light, it works fine as a traditional light, and it also works great as a headlamp when you need hand's free usage.

ven · Sep 16, 2016

LeanBurn said:
. ThruNite makes really good products that are built well. Perhaps very good value for the money isn't high on many CPF members, but for me it is, so ThruNite is my benchmark upon which I compare.

I like thrunite a lot , pretty much excellent value and well /nicely made products. Out of the lights, the Tis/Ti3s x2/ T10/T10s/T10t/TN32vn/TN35vn/TN36vn have all been issue free and excellent in every way whilst owned................

jon_slider · Sep 16, 2016

airwolf41 said:
welcome and recommendations for other lights

I recommend a light with a High CRI Nichia such as the L11C

it also helps to know your usage pattern. Do you work on cars during the day. Do you use a flashlight to search for intruders or large animals outdoors. Do you just need a bright spotlight and dont care if the colors are not realistic… Is max brightness a priority or do you mostly use medium and low light levels...

Start looking up the lights you are interested in. Compare how heavy they are. The SC5 is the brightest, but also the heaviest. Are you going to carry on your body all day (less weight is better), or just keep a light in a tool box or car (weight and bulk are less critical)..

do you drop your lights a lot… the L11c is more fragile, and costs less, than the SC5

here is the difference between High CRI and Low CRI

hfUma_ZZrOb0p5MDnhTrGatc4Q09rDGq-Qb7ZmMsLD5W7C1nXx4mzA9XE6t85sn-NThNqOUaVkSbthAwXnHkF-ji2B5WKv6Ah0gvB_-kIQkWbe0zxxIbt5Ip61nKqpOJuEF9lng2jdBELM2epWyZcOX0RtN4rVBGiq4UNDINUyNF2ixEIrySWj4b3NOU2L3Ccwyj4E1mJXKh-Eqy0WdgPNEeOy_Y844O0eOBs3KzfwpZhUSFA4UphydEyQHKqtUPG1OO6bTrfTxC1jDFU3C2vK0B95IKgB0J00JwznLx1Qi_uaWRfLEpoBc1pHwlQT_tF6a_gIIWtYXh7zPbRfAz7wOYwdqqLMkwKBLEFkO98_IpjfWJrTIJb1TC_h7OzglA1Jm50BTXuxFNdg0FDdttWFStrHcVATe3zrLAPseHKXL6F-RFW1_j20wzbkqaMjReCb-LD4ZKVlR8V2NVJwH9VMwjnE_3anI-EQ_XP1SkfcRl1UVQxFNeQNzTnF9adQAhdZNRr6d4B3v_kceJdEEmzuW_4aal7TXGAIXtsweHQAGOPAhxzhbU5VdPpABhIh1bkkOBUXl3OrFVWX6Ww1tSHUIJ6NpvnYPz3lumgYyfcTwInjli=w1198-h898-no

and look at the difference between low CRI and how green it makes the yellow:
pics from here

vs high CRI

ven · Sep 16, 2016

Great pics Jon................looks like you have been tipped over the edge

jon_slider · Sep 16, 2016

thanks for the kind words ven
however, those are not my Tips, they belong to Koam

I was tempted to buy a TipCRI, but abandoned the notion after reading about the power drain issues reported in that thread:

blah9 said:
I had the same issue where I had the light locked out and it was drained completely after a few days.

bltkmt said:
Strange thing happened with mine this week. I have been carrying it in my pocket, with the button lockout on. After a few days the battery was completely dead.

ven · Sep 16, 2016

jon_slider said:
thanks for the kind words ven
however, those are not my Tips, they belong to Koam

I was tempted to buy a TipCRI, but abandoned the notion after reading about the power drain issues reported in that thread:

I think the step with the CRI version is excellent, good move by NC for sure. Close up key chain type used really benefit from hi cri imo and hope the options continue and become a little more the norm. Had a few accidental activation's from the TUBE in the short time on my keys, cant see this being much different and not over confident in the long term durability either. That is me though and just my opinion...........hoping to be wrong. Generally i prefer twisty to limit any activation during carry, side buttons are out for me these days.

roger-roger · Sep 16, 2016

How is Nitecore Store handling these warranty returns? I'm assuming/hoping there's an on-shore return address for this purpose?

Swedpat · Sep 19, 2016

jon_slider said:
I recommend a light with a High CRI Nichia such as the L11C

it also helps to know your usage pattern. Do you work on cars during the day. Do you use a flashlight to search for intruders or large animals outdoors. Do you just need a bright spotlight and dont care if the colors are not realistic… Is max brightness a priority or do you mostly use medium and low light levels...

Start looking up the lights you are interested in. Compare how heavy they are. The SC5 is the brightest, but also the heaviest. Are you going to carry on your body all day (less weight is better), or just keep a light in a tool box or car (weight and bulk are less critical)..

do you drop your lights a lot… the L11c is more fragile, and costs less, than the SC5

here is the difference between High CRI and Low CRI

and look at the difference between low CRI and how green it makes the yellow:
pics from here

vs high CRI

I appreciate your pictures. These clearly show the supremacy of the high CRI LED.
With the cool white XP-G2 the soil looks dark grey, pretty much like ashes, bit with the 219 it looks as soil!

jon_slider · Sep 19, 2016

ven said:
Generally i prefer twisty to limit any activation during carry, side buttons are out for me these days.

I agree. It makes no sense to me to put a light with exposed buttons on a keychain.

Now to come back to the OP's what AA should I buy question:
IF he wants High CRI (now that I have let the cat out of the bag), the otherwise excellent Olight S1a is not an option. The L11c has high CRI but is known to die if dropped, and the Zebras are not high CRI..

What other AA light offers Nichia?

(preferably with No PWM)

LeanBurn · Sep 19, 2016

Higher CRI lights can be more spendy, for a nearer effect and better rendering, at least go neutral white...

Witterings · Sep 20, 2016

I've been looking at the Zebralights as well but I don't like their interface which I believe is due to change in the New Year so I've literally just ordered a Manker E11 to use until I know what changes they make with the interface .... Zebras are too expensive to buy twice and the Manker will probably become my back up in the future.

liteboy · Sep 20, 2016

Witterings said:
I've been looking at the Zebralights as well but I don't like their interface which I believe is due to change in the New Year so I've literally just ordered a Manker E11 to use until I know what changes they make with the interface .... Zebras are too expensive to buy twice and the Manker will probably become my back up in the future.

+1. Looking forward to a new, perhaps more standard UI from ZL. I've become so spoiled with vn driver and the off the shelf long press low, double click turbo to have to learn a new UI now.

jon_slider · Sep 22, 2016

liteboy said:
long press low, double click turbo to have to learn a new UI now.

Zebra has the same interface for low as you are used to: Press and hold (for over 0.6 seconds) turns on the light to Low…
Turbo is even easier than you are used to: One short-click turns on the light to High (Turbo)

roger-roger · Sep 22, 2016

Witterings said:
I've been looking at the Zebralights as well but I don't like their interface which I believe is due to change in the New Year so I've literally just ordered a Manker E11 to use until I know what changes they make with the interface .... Zebras are too expensive to buy twice and the Manker will probably become my back up in the future.

Do you have a link on that, specifically?

Witterings · Sep 23, 2016

roger-roger said:
Do you have a link on that, specifically?

I saw it mentioned in a thread so I made reference to it as elsewhere and someone came back and commented saying yes it was true but I can't remember where it was and just thought I'd hang fire for now and see what happens.
I've only got the one light of theirs and I think it's brilliant but the modes I'd use most / switch between are hard to get to without going through the sequence of re-programming so it becomes a pain and as I'd like to get another 2 / 3 of theirs over time just thought I'd be wise to see what changes were made because a good light could become a great light.

EDIT: Have just found the link here

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ight-and-Why&p=4962794&viewfull=1#post4962794

jon_slider · Sep 23, 2016

Witterings said:
the modes I'd use… are hard to get to without going through the sequence of re-programming

Why not take advantage of the reprogramming feature?

#73

StandardBattery said:
you will be able to program all the 1 levels and also have different sets of programming (configurations if you like) and switch between them. ...there will be at least 18 levels to choose from up from the current 12 levels.

You would still have to reprogram the modes you want it to memorize, but you could store more than one configuration, right?

help me choose a new 1AA light

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