Help me fix/upgrade my SureFire E1e!

CoolBreeze135

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Hey folks!
I picked up a SureFire E1e Executive Elite recently on the secondary market. I really like the size and the body design of this light, but the lumen output is pretty pathetic, even compared to my streamlight microstream that is 4 years old.

The same afternoon that I purchased the light, it died. It's not the battery, so I'm thinking it is the bulb. I have a few questions:

I would love to replace the bulb with an LED drop-in. I don't need anything crazy bright, but it would be nice to get it up to, say 50 lumens or more. This one by lumens factory is the only one I can find (http://www.lumensfactory.com/online_shop_product.php?id=336&cid=5&sid=11&page=1). Are there other options out there? I cannot spend $100 to fix this light, so extensive or expensive mods are out of the question.

Also, I need input on whether I can do an affordable LED upgrade to create a reliable, safe light. I am a newbie to this. I have been a casual user of decent flashlights (Fenix, Thrunite, Streamlight, Princeton Tec, etc...) for years, but I am not very knowledgeable about the details within the specs.

Any help I can get is greatly appreciated. Also, If this is in the wrong subforum, I apologize. Mods can move it if they see fit.
 

Taxman

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I'm afraid there is that much you can do with that specific light. If you have the executive with the teardrop cut outs in the head, that drop-in you linked won't work, the sizing inside the head is just wrong, where it needs to fit through the opening for the bulb. Someone on this forum told me about Tana who sells a drop in then I believe fits the E1 executive. I think the drop in is $82 for that light.
 

CoolBreeze135

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I'm afraid there is that much you can do with that specific light. If you have the executive with the teardrop cut outs in the head, that drop-in you linked won't work, the sizing inside the head is just wrong, where it needs to fit through the opening for the bulb. Someone on this forum told me about Tana who sells a drop in then I believe fits the E1 executive. I think the drop in is $82 for that light.

It is not the executive with the teardrop cuts, it is the exectutive elite, with the octagonal rim. This one:

e1e_ruler.jpg


Does that change things?
 
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Taxman

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Indeed it does. Malkoff Device makes a head for that light. $85. Lots of other guys here can help you on modding that light, it has way more options than the E1 Executive does
 

CoolBreeze135

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Tad Customs bi-pin adapter may interest you. There is a thread under "Incandescent" thread.

If I understand correctly, only the 45 lumen bulb will work with my light and a Cr123A battery, correct? I may be willing to settle for something like this if I can't find a drop-in LED.

http://tadcustoms.com/xenon-bi-pin-bulb.htm

For an incandescent bulb, this one looks pretty similar, but much less expensive:

http://www.lumensfactory.com/online_shop_product.php?id=21&cid=5&sid=13&page=1

But the runtime is pretty bad.
 
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CoolBreeze135

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Indeed it does. Malkoff Device makes a head for that light. $85. Lots of other guys here can help you on modding that light, it has way more options than the E1 Executive does

Good! Honestly, $85 is way more than I can spend right now. Hopefully I can find just a bulb for a more affordable fix.
 

StandardBattery

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Watch the WTS as there have been a few different solutions to convert this to LED, but personally I kind of like it as Incan. Check that your battery really is GOOD, you can use visual inspection to see if the bulb is blown, if it looks good check that the battery is really good and not just have a good open circuit voltage. Hopefully you didn't try and RCR in it, only use CR123A primary.

I like the A2 I think it was because when batteries got low the LEDs would still shine, but the main bulb (incan) would be out. Very useful indicator of low battery without leaving you in the dark.

Also check the Custom light forum. I remember seeing a new builder there not that long ago that was building E-Series compatible stuff.
 

CoolBreeze135

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Watch the WTS as there have been a few different solutions to convert this to LED, but personally I kind of like it as Incan. Check that your battery really is GOOD, you can use visual inspection to see if the bulb is blown, if it looks good check that the battery is really good and not just have a good open circuit voltage. Hopefully you didn't try and RCR in it, only use CR123A primary.

I like the A2 I think it was because when batteries got low the LEDs would still shine, but the main bulb (incan) would be out. Very useful indicator of low battery without leaving you in the dark.

Also check the Custom light forum. I remember seeing a new builder there not that long ago that was building E-Series compatible stuff.

I tried a Rayovac 123A and a Streamlight 123A. No rechargables.

The filament in the bulb doesn't appear to be blown. Is there a way to check and make sure there isn't another problem? I don't have a voltmeter.
 

StandardBattery

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I tried a Rayovac 123A and a Streamlight 123A. No rechargables.

The filament in the bulb doesn't appear to be blown. Is there a way to check and make sure there isn't another problem? I don't have a voltmeter.
A couple of things, first the easiest. If you have made sure the head and the tail-cap are tight then the most common problem with these is the switch. With the battery in the light; remove the tail-cap, turn the light upside down with the bezel facing the down, find a wire and connect (short) the negative terminal of the battery to the outer barrel... if it lights it's the switch. If you don't have a wire a screwdriver or almost anything metal will work and you don't have to be precise and no chance for damage.
 

CoolBreeze135

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A couple of things, first the easiest. If you have made sure the head and the tail-cap are tight then the most common problem with these is the switch. With the battery in the light; remove the tail-cap, turn the light upside down with the bezel facing the down, find a wire and connect (short) the negative terminal of the battery to the outer barrel... if it lights it's the switch. If you don't have a wire a screwdriver or almost anything metal will work and you don't have to be precise and no chance for damage.

Thanks! It's not the tailcap. I checked it the way you described alongside my my working lights to make sure.

Guess that means it's the bulb/module, which I am replacing anyway. Good to know.
 

just like me

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Lumens Factory has the least expensive upgrade to your E1e.
My only gripe is it is single mode.

Well, that's true if its the last lamp you buy, but if you go through more than 3 lamps in the lifetime of ownership, Tads Customs is far less expensive. Chances are if you use the flashlight regularly, and frequently, Tad Customs will be the better bargain.

There are (ugly looking) aftermarket tail switch replacements for E series that have a circuit that uses PWM to allow a few modes, low, high, some have strobe. Before anyone poopoos PWM (No one hates it more than I in any form for LED), my understanding is with incan the modulation occurs so fast, the lamp never dims. It would be a PWM similar to Zebralights implementation, but actually far better because of the consistency of the incan lamp's output.
 

remy b

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PM Tana on the forum - he makes awsome drop-ins for SF Es.
I have used mine for a couple of years now, on a daily basis - reliable, well built and perfect beam.
 

RobertMM

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Well, that's true if its the last lamp you buy, but if you go through more than 3 lamps in the lifetime of ownership, Tads Customs is far less expensive. Chances are if you use the flashlight regularly, and frequently, Tad Customs will be the better bargain.

There are (ugly looking) aftermarket tail switch replacements for E series that have a circuit that uses PWM to allow a few modes, low, high, some have strobe. Before anyone poopoos PWM (No one hates it more than I in any form for LED), my understanding is with incan the modulation occurs so fast, the lamp never dims. It would be a PWM similar to Zebralights implementation, but actually far better because of the consistency of the incan lamp's output.

I was talking about the LED modules from Lumens Factory.
 
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