Nitecore P12 No High Power Modes.

I love the idea of the P12 but I seem to be having quality control issues, and I haven't seen anyone else posting this problem. My P12 no longer has higher power modes. The moonlight mode works, though at a lower brightness than it should be. All the other settings result in a low-med power mode. I've cleaned and regreased the threads, I've checked that the battery rentention spring is tight, basically every quick fix I can think of. I've had this happen to at least 4 P12s. The first one I had I had replaced once before I lost it. I'm in the process of replacing my current P12 for the 4th time. I want this light to work but I need a reliable flashlight. Any suggestions would be great.

what are you cleaning it with? How old is the light? What cell are you using? Cleaning the threads is always a good idea but are you cleaning all the contact points as well? DeOxit D100 is best to clean contact points Ive seen the stuff work miracles. If you do not have that on hand rubbing alcohol and Q-Tips. Could also be just an old cell issue. Ive had a few P12's the current GT is the best so far. Better anodization and stouter electronics as it is an XP-L light and thermally regulated. Hope you are not trying to use flat top cells as the P12 is not meant to take them. Keep us posted

Everything CelticCross74 said.

In the past I've used rubbing alcohol and q-tips. This particular light I have not cleaned because it is the 3rd replacement for the original light and I've only had it for about 6 weeks. The light has never been dropped. Apart for keeping it in my pocket during the day, the light is basically brand new. The cells I've tried are 3400mAhr, 3100mAhr Nitecore, and a 3400mAhr EagleTec. The cells are less than a year old. They all read 4.2v when charged. I've only got Nitecore's charger and a dmm, so that's about what I can tell you about the cells. This P12 is the XM-L version.

I would love to hear more ideas about what could be wrong, but I want to throw out a theory and see what people think.

I use this light almost exclusively in the "Turbo" mode. I live in the middle of nowhere and spend a lot of time on back country highways. I use it to light up the side of the road and let cars know that I'm there. I also use it as my primary bike light, though the rides are short, less than 20min.

I thought the P12 was thermally and currently regulated, though I double checked Nitecore's web documentation and I didn't see it mentioned. So I'm wondering if the light is simply overpowering its electronics. That the "1000 Lumen" is more a marketing thing. So while the light will do that, it's not recommended and it is really on the bleeding edge of what it is capable of. Those XM-Ls put out a lot of heat and draw a lot of current and it is really the only thing I can think of.

It's sad really, I've got two of the HC50 head lamps and those things are tanks. The first one I've had for years, I've take it swimming, dropped it god knows how many time. It's survived half a dozen GORUCK events and probably run >500mi. Just wish the P12 was up to that standard.

Alright thanks for letting us know your battery situation you should be good there. Now as for cleaning are you cleaning the actual contact points the bare aluminum at the ends of the threads as well as the tail retaining ring and inside the head? Dont know where in the world you are but order a couple cans of DeOxit D100 spray cans Ive seen that stuff work miracles.

The new P12GT is the only thermally regulated P12. The others are all timed. The P12GT being an XP-L HI light has much stouter electronics. This is your 3rd replacement? Over how long? Once the cell voltage drops below a certain level there just is not enough juice to attain the high levels. The new GT with its thermal regulation maintains its voltage far far better.

Yes the older P12's do 1000 lumens for say 3 minutes then drop like a rock. They get crazy hot. The new GT once it gets hot slowly throttles back the output to a level it can cool off a bit then rise again. Not big on head lamps. If you are able to attain one of the new 3500mah cells like Keeppower I highly advise it. The 3500's have far less internal resistance and feed the voltage without much voltage sag.

Keep us posted

I don't have the P12, but I have the EC20 XM-L2 from about 2 years (like P12 but simplier interface) , very nice and simple light, till now no problems (never cleaned) but I admit that I didn't used in max mode to much.

Anyway, is not a solution to your actual problem, but in future, if you want to use a light most of the time at 900-1000 lumens, don't choose one which have the max mode 1000 lumens, try to find one which have 1500-2000 lumens max mode, than you can use at 1000 lumens with no problem.
This flashlights with 900-1000 lumens max mode are not design to function continuously at this power, only for (very) short period, 1-2 minutes.

But anyway...I don't think that should be broken only after 6 weeks ...

Are you sure your battery is charged? Same has happened to be but it was because the battery was too low to provide power to other higher modes

When I clean my lights I clean everything. I clean contacts, retention springs, body tube, threads. Basically anything that needs to be an electrical connection. The threads get a clean, and regrease. Saves the threads and the o-rings. I'll have to find some of that DeOxit. I can get pretty much any chemical or solvent I want through my work, but I generally stick with isopropanol. It's a solid solvent without having to worry about it eating anything sensitive. The cells are good, voltage checks out at 4.2v when used, and I tried three of them. I'm not sure of the best way to explain it but it just doesn't look like a bad cell. There's no flicker, no dimming, it just looks like whatever is delivering the required current is fried, or locked in a low power mode via the controller.

I originally bought this light 9/2015, it failed and I sent it back 8/4/2016. It failed again and I just sent it back again. Admittedly the medium and high modes made an extremely loud buzzing noise on the replacement light. I believe that was from the PWM control of the LED so the light may not have been long for this world from the beginning. However the distributor has been fantastic about replacing it.

I know that using the light at 1000 lumen is pushing it's capability. I bought it as an EDC flashlight, I just don't have a whole lot of call for that in everyday usage. This is probably blasphemy here but I don't want to have an entire stable of flashlights, I enjoyed having one light that I could use for everything. I had it and when it works it makes a great bike light, and it's nice to run with. I really wouldn't want to run with a much larger flashlight. I thought the light was well regulated enough to prevent this sort of thing, but I'm becoming more and more convinced that it is a little too overbred and I might have to find another light for each of my uses.

I'm sorry you're having issues with it. I love my P12. I've dropped it many many times onto asphalt and concrete and submerged it in water, everything and it still works flawlessly. I guess sometimes you just get a dud :/

yes sometimes you do get a dud. My first P12 years ago only had the glare coat applied to half the lens it drove me up the wall. DeOxit D100 is a purpose meant electrical contact cleaner, corrosion dissolver and surface protector. Ive got 3 cans of it. Big step up from rubbing alcohol. I recently had an Eagletac light that suddenly started making this buzzing/high pitched whine sound on the higher settings I could not figure it out. I cleaned it out with alcohol nothing changed. Then I finally ordered the DeOxit. Cleaned out the light with the DeOxit and the issue vanished I was amazed.

Not saying it is 100% going to take care of your issue just that DeOxit is the proper cleaner to have on hand for these high output LED lights. It is good you have a good retailer to work with. Perhaps an exchange of some kind can be made for the P12GT?