Headlamps with longest burntime?

Madeinoregon

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Need help finding the right headlamp. I don't need any more than 150 lumens and want the longest runtime possible. I would like the batteries/battery to be located in the headlamp rather than an auxiliary pack and a tilt option. I work construction and hate having to charge my aaa's every night I get some good use out of it, or replace batteries every couple days.
 

LeanBurn

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"Run-time" has a couple of meanings:

"run-time" at full output, then sudden shut off.
"run-time" at full output for a while, then gradual decrease in output.
 

Lynx_Arc

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You need to further define what level of light you actually need as "burntime" is directly related to lumen output and the lower the output the longer the runtime. You can reduce the lumens to the point that the output of the headlamp is no longer useful for the particular situation and also some situations call for different lighting patterns and proximity. If you are working on something close in front of you in a dark dark area a floody lower output headlamp may suffice but if you are working and need light 10 foot in front of you in an area with light pollution (some background light that your eyes can see but is not useful to where you are needing to look) you need a more throwy more powerful headlamp output.
There are headlamps that throw, headlamps that flood, headlamps that do inbetween, headlamps that throw with a diffuser to help it be floody... even headlamps with multiple lights on them one that throws and one that floods. There are headlamps with one level of light and headlamps with multiple levels of light.

I'm guessing you need a 1-2AA or 18650 based headlamp with multiple levels of light that throws with some spill/flood. With a better more powerful headlamp that probably your 3AAA headlamp you may find you are using a higher output level and the headlamp ends up giving you still the same runtime of the 3AAA one unless you go with an 18650 and use a higher capacity battery.
 

Madeinoregon

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Thanks for the response. I'm an electrician so I just need enough light to see within arms reach. I can use a flashlight for inspecting dark ceilings etc. I just need a reasonable amount of light to perform close up tasks. Not sure what that translates to in lumens.
 

iamlucky13

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Do you have a budget in mind?

For close up work, I'm guessing you'd like a relatively wide, even beam rather than one with a narrow hotspot (flood rather than throw), yes?

What kind of headlamp do you currently have, and are you happy with the beam profile and color? Do you know what output it is rated at in the mode you use it most?
 

Lynx_Arc

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Thanks for the response. I'm an electrician so I just need enough light to see within arms reach. I can use a flashlight for inspecting dark ceilings etc. I just need a reasonable amount of light to perform close up tasks. Not sure what that translates to in lumens.

I've read several threads started by or including people who were doing electrical work and most of them say that a neutral white or even warm white LED is a big plus in order so properly identify wire colors. With the proper light you could get by with 30-70 lumens unless you have light pollution and then maybe more is needed. I too am wanting a light that will run for at least 8 hours at a decent light output.
 

Madeinoregon

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Yes wide beam is preferred. I currently have a coast hl4 I believe. It puts out great light For a few hours. I've been looking at lamps like the Princeton tec remix and black diamond spot that claim 150/200 hours on low but was just curious if anyone had some other suggestions. I would like to keep it around $50 or less but ultimately just want an efficient design with a great output to run time ratio.
 

Lynx_Arc

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Yes wide beam is preferred. I currently have a coast hl4 I believe. It puts out great light For a few hours. I've been looking at lamps like the Princeton tec remix and black diamond spot that claim 150/200 hours on low but was just curious if anyone had some other suggestions. I would like to keep it around $50 or less but ultimately just want an efficient design with a great output to run time ratio.
any light that claims 100+ hours is either relying on a low low mode that often isn't useful for working (5 lumens or less) or isn't rating it ansi and the light dims from bright to nothing and adds the runtime from it all together. I strongly recommend against headlamps using the 3AAA format as it is the least powerful format and often relies on declining output to bolster long runtimes. There is 1AA headlamps that do 30-50 lumens for about 5-7 hours and 2AA ones that do about twice that and 18650 headlamps that can do incredibly long runtimes at decent levels but all in all the better floodier headlamps are going to be pushing the 50 dollar limit you imposed and most of the 18650 based solutions are going to start above 50 and go from there.
I would recommend starting at a fenix dealer and reading their specs on their lights with varying battery types and then also there are tons of headlamp threads in this forum. The headlamps people are talking about with the best flood are the zebralights and they are probably beyond your budget personally I have interest in them but most of the decent headlamps are way beyond my budget for now so I keep using an old rayovac 1AA headlamp that gets about 90 minutes output at 30 lumens.
 

Madeinoregon

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Thanks for all the help! I just ordered a nitecore hc60. It comes with the 18650. 1000 lm/1 hr, 420 lm/2.5 hr, 38 lm/25 hr, 1 lm/680hr. I'll primarily use the 38 Lumen option, but it is nice to know I can get really bright or have extremely long low light options. Also comes with strobe/sos/and beacon options.
 

iamlucky13

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That looks like an appropriate choice. It should have a nice wide beam for close up work, and 38 lumens should be a good level.
 

Lynx_Arc

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Personally I would have preferred modes between 38 and 420 lumens as to me runtimes of 8-12 hours would get me through a day of persistent use and at times but I agree that 38 lumens can get the job done for close proximity with not excessive light pollution.
 

Lexel

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I would have said take the Skilhunt h03f
http://www.banggood.com/SKILHUNT-H0...ashlight-Headlamp-p-1067396.html?rmmds=search

you can choose between NW and Cool White

there are different options like reflektor h03r or lens

it has also the option to put a diffusor in front of the LED
H03F-headlamp-2.jpg


Its output is regulated and on high and lower it runs permanently
with an output of 160 lumens you get 11hours with a good 18650 battery
H03F-headlamp-6.jpg


and it has multiple output levels so you get close to your wish lumen value
H03F-headlamp-12.jpg
 
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myflashguy

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I hv Skilhunt H02R frankly it's very heavy seldom use I EDC it now. The lightest in all headlamps that I own I would say Nitecore HC30 or ZL H603 (never weight my estimation only) unless of course u go for smaller battery type headlamp. I hv a of total 8 headlamps which I use for running & biking purpose my current favourite is ZL. Personally for your case I would suggest HC30 rather than H60 lighter & cheaper (i think) :twothumbs
 

mico

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Get a ZL H603d (or the H603c if you know you would prefer the warmer tint), better CRI for the electrical wires, full flood for simply being able to see, great run-times with a good range of output and nice tint.

Here's the 'c' specs:
H603c Cree XM-L2 EasyWhite (Typical CRI: 83-85, Nominal CCT 4000K)
High: H1 830 Lm (PID, 2 hr) or H2 531 Lm (PID, 2.5 hrs) / 242 Lm (3.9 hrs) / 110 Lm (11 hrs)
Medium: M1 59 Lm (30 hrs) or M2 25 Lm (66 hrs) / 9 Lm (172 hrs)
Low: L1 2.5 Lm (16 days) or L2 0.34Lm (2.5 months) / 0.05Lm (4.6 months) / 0.01Lm (5.5m)
Beacon Strobe Mode: 0.2Hz Beacon at Low / 0.2Hz Beacon at H1 / 4Hz Strobe at H1 / 19Hz Strobe at H1
 
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