Anyone else ever had this problem with an olight?

HughJorgan · Nov 30, 2016

A different thread on reliability/issues got me thinking...

I have a bunch of olights and overall am very pleased with them. But I have had one problem.

Original S1 Baton. I don't believe it did this out-of-the-box but I began noticing that when I ran it on its highest setting, it would shut off after less than a minute then not turn back on. I was using relatively new RCR123A, olight-branded protected cell. At first I thought it was a depleted battery issue but when I put in on the charger, it would still be 80%+ capacity. I tried several RCR123As and even some non-rechargeable CR123As and could reproduce the problem on demand.

At this point I went to olight customer service, where I was quite detailed with the problem description and speculated it was a driver issue. They were very responsive and directed me to send it in for repair. I got it back a couple of weeks later. And it had the exact same problem, no change. And I discovered something else - when the problem occurred, I could just remove the tailcap (breaking the power circuit) and replace it, same battery, and it would start working again. Again seems like a driver issue to me.

Though my immediate urge was to re-contact customer service, I was disappointed enough that I ended up doing nothing. It was one of three flashlights I carried EDC (simultaneously) and really two is enough, I just went without.

But then the same thing happened with another one, a S10R (which is also RCR123A powered) that I had given as a gift. Kept going out when the owner thought it was fully charged. And again, removing the tailcap and replacing it restores operation.

Has anybody else experienced this? Is it a known issue? Any idea on the cause, beyond my speculation it's a driver issue? Any advice?

Thanks.

Impossible lumens · Nov 30, 2016

Maybe it's an issue with the thermal stepdown not functioning correctly. I'm actually clueless. However, if it is an actual issue, then I would contact Olight again. Have you tried using unprotected 16340s? It might be worth a shot. Could be Olight is punking you, seeing that you learn not to call customer service. Again, I really don't know, but I have had similar hitches and one of them was resolved by using unprotected cells. Hope you get it.

Mkduffer · Dec 1, 2016

I'd check the older posts. I seem to recall people having issues with Olights and removing the tail cap (simulating a battery change) resolving the issue. I don't recall if Olights have under-voltage protection, but if they do and since they support both rechargeable and primary batteries, I wonder if it's somehow related to that. You'd want to be able to run primaries until they were empty, but not so with rechargeables. I recall that the S1 and S10 series run turbo for a minute or so then drop down to high. Perhaps running the light at full with a partially depleted battery is causing the battery output to drop below the undervoltage threshold, which is then locking the light until a battery change is done.

Tachead · Dec 1, 2016

The problem you are having may be because you are popping the your batteries protection circuit. You are not using a powerful enough cell for the S1.

Members have measured 1.6-2amp max draw on the S1. And, the Smini and S1R likely draw more due to their higher output ratings(likely 2-3amps+). These flashlights need high quality cells with a minimum 2-3amp continuous draw rating, if not more, for safe and proper operation.

Olight should have put a warning about this on the box or in the manual. The only Olight brand cell that will work with these flashlights, for use of turbo, is the 550mAh 5C IMR cell, not the RCR123 version.

HughJorgan · Dec 1, 2016

Thanks for the advice.

HughJorgan · Dec 1, 2016

Tachead said:
The problem you are having may be because you are popping the your batteries protection circuit. You are not using a powerful enough cell for the S1.

Members have measured 1.6-2amp max draw on the S1. And, the Smini and S1R likely draw more due to their higher output ratings(likely 2-3amps+). These flashlights need high quality cells with a minimum 2-3amp continuous draw rating, if not more, for safe and proper operation.

Olight should have put a warning about this on the box or in the manual. The only Olight brand cell that will work with these flashlights, for use of turbo, is the 550mAh 5C IMR cell, not the RCR123 version.

Let me verify that I got your reply correctly - I have been using olight model#ORB-163P06, 650mAh / 2.4Wh batteries and they have insufficient max draw amperage for the light's turbo mode?

And instead I should be using olight model#ORB-163C05, 550mAh / 2.0Wh 5C version which, despite a slightly lower capacity, has a better max draw rating?

Tachead · Dec 1, 2016

HughJorgan said:
Let me verify that I got your reply correctly - I have been using olight model#ORB-163P06, 650mAh / 2.4Wh batteries and they have insufficient max draw amperage for the light's turbo mode?

And instead I should be using olight model#ORB-163C05, 550mAh / 2.0Wh 5C version which, despite a slightly lower capacity, has a better max draw rating?

Correct. If you want reliable use of turbo that is.

The cells you are using have a maximum continuous discharge rating of 2C which is 1.3amps(2 x 650mAh). The light you are using them in draws 1.5-2amps on turbo. So, you are drawing considerably more current then the cell can handle which is not a good idea and can even be dangerous. Luckily, the cell you are using has a protection circuit(PTC) that has over charge, over discharge, over current, and short-circuit protection. So, if you ask more from the cell then the PTC will allow, it will "pop" and cut off output.

I would try a higher rated cell if I were you and see if that fixes your problem. Even if it doesn't and there is another issue, the cell you are using is not ideal for this light.

And, don't get too caught up in the capacity ratings listed on cells. They are often inaccurate and a cells capacity can vary depending on the current you are drawing from it. So, a lower capacity cell with a higher discharge rating can sometimes last longer then one with a lower discharge rating and higher capacity when they are both driven at higher currents. Plus, higher discharge cells will often hold a higher voltage under load.

rookiedaddy · Dec 1, 2016

fwiw, rating of these Olight cells:
ORB-163P06 - 2C, ~1.5A max discharge current
ORB-163C05 - 5C, ~2.8A max discharge current

I can't believe I'm saying this, but IMO, ORB-163P06 is over-protective. Similar size protected RCR123 from KeepPower and Fenix has a higher discharge current.

Renegadethreads · Dec 1, 2016

No product problems yet with Olight, but plenty with their store. Probably my last purchase from there.

chillinn · Dec 3, 2016

rookiedaddy said:
fwiw, rating of these Olight cells:
ORB-163P06 - 2C, ~1.5A max discharge current
ORB-163C05 - 5C, ~2.8A max discharge current

I can't believe I'm saying this, but IMO, ORB-163P06 is over-protective. Similar size protected RCR123 from KeepPower and Fenix has a higher discharge current.

I can't tell you how many times I have seen posts describing the OP's issue, and the issue in fact turned out to be Olight cells. I have a solution: don't use Olight cells. Instead, use quality cells. If you become accustomed to your flashlight, and know it well, and have experience with li-ion cells and use best practices, then it is not an absolute necessity to have a protection circuit. It's mostly not a safety issue, but an economic issue. If you're not abusing cells, mindlessly depleating them or overdischarging them, then the protection circuit becomes superfluous and in fact retards a cells max discharge current, and limits its maximum sustained current. Once you're aware of the output curve of a brand of cell, you become fully aware what that dip in brightness means: swap cells.

Then again, sometimes it is nice to be completely mindless, and run those protected cells right down to the circuit trip every time.

djans1397 · Dec 3, 2016

Nope. Not soley a cell issue. My S10R had quit working with my Olight cell AND a completely diff rechargeable cell. At first it was finicky about coming on, but would come on with limited levels available. After two or three times it is quit working altogether. It is definitely not my cells! Great light, but I'm displeased by its failure. I've had no previous issues with the Olights in the past either.

Satansjester · Dec 3, 2016

djans1397 said:
Nope. Not soley a cell issue. My S10R had quit working with my Olight cell AND a completely diff rechargeable cell. At first it was finicky about coming on, but would come on with limited levels available. After two or three times it is quit working altogether. It is definitely not my cells! Great light, but I'm displayed by its failure. I've had no previous issues with the Olights in the past either.

Agreed, I've had issues with both my s10r baton and my s2 baton, both intermittently not working or responding to switch, needing messing with tail cap to get it working again, I've got only one olight cell, others are nitecore or fenix (yes, re-wraps I'm sure)
I know for a fact my cells were almost fully charged.

i hate, hate, hate spending money on a torch, making sure I've a charged cell inside, then pressing the button and.... Nothing.

Im wary of olight now, happy to be proved wrong but there it is.

reppans · Dec 6, 2016

HughJorgan said:
.......Original S1 Baton. I don't believe it did this out-of-the-box but I began noticing that when I ran it on its highest setting, it would shut off after less than a minute then not turn back on.....

...... And I discovered something else - when the problem occurred, I could just remove the tailcap (breaking the power circuit) and replace it, same battery, and it would start working again. .....

This does not sound like a battery protection circuit trip.

Blackbeard · Dec 6, 2016

yeah that olight battery stinks, having a similar issue with it in my fenix e15, doesnt trip protection, but steps down off of turbo in 3-5 seconds with the olight cell, was also advised in another thread to use an imr.

It's ashame the company who makes em made you send it in for service, seems like they cant even figure out their own products

Olightworld · Dec 7, 2016

Hi Hugh, We apologize that this has happened to your light. Have you contacted us again about getting a replacement?

HughJorgan said:
A different thread on reliability/issues got me thinking...

I have a bunch of olights and overall am very pleased with them. But I have had one problem.

Original S1 Baton. I don't believe it did this out-of-the-box but I began noticing that when I ran it on its highest setting, it would shut off after less than a minute then not turn back on. I was using relatively new RCR123A, olight-branded protected cell. At first I thought it was a depleted battery issue but when I put in on the charger, it would still be 80%+ capacity. I tried several RCR123As and even some non-rechargeable CR123As and could reproduce the problem on demand.

At this point I went to olight customer service, where I was quite detailed with the problem description and speculated it was a driver issue. They were very responsive and directed me to send it in for repair. I got it back a couple of weeks later. And it had the exact same problem, no change. And I discovered something else - when the problem occurred, I could just remove the tailcap (breaking the power circuit) and replace it, same battery, and it would start working again. Again seems like a driver issue to me.

Though my immediate urge was to re-contact customer service, I was disappointed enough that I ended up doing nothing. It was one of three flashlights I carried EDC (simultaneously) and really two is enough, I just went without.

But then the same thing happened with another one, a S10R (which is also RCR123A powered) that I had given as a gift. Kept going out when the owner thought it was fully charged. And again, removing the tailcap and replacing it restores operation.

Has anybody else experienced this? Is it a known issue? Any idea on the cause, beyond my speculation it's a driver issue? Any advice?

Thanks.

Olightworld · Dec 7, 2016

Please send an email to [email protected] and she can help you out with any issues you are having.

Satansjester said:
Agreed, I've had issues with both my s10r baton and my s2 baton, both intermittently not working or responding to switch, needing messing with tail cap to get it working again, I've got only one olight cell, others are nitecore or fenix (yes, re-wraps I'm sure)
I know for a fact my cells were almost fully charged.

i hate, hate, hate spending money on a torch, making sure I've a charged cell inside, then pressing the button and.... Nothing.

Im wary of olight now, happy to be proved wrong but there it is.

Olightworld · Dec 7, 2016

Have you contacted us at our US customer service? You can either email [email protected] or call 770-627-4714

djans1397 said:
Nope. Not soley a cell issue. My S10R had quit working with my Olight cell AND a completely diff rechargeable cell. At first it was finicky about coming on, but would come on with limited levels available. After two or three times it is quit working altogether. It is definitely not my cells! Great light, but I'm displeased by its failure. I've had no previous issues with the Olights in the past either.

TinderBox (UK) · Dec 7, 2016

No problem with my Olight S10 L2 Baton, I have only had it a week, I bought a couple of "Olight RCR123A ORB-163P06" cells to feed it.

I just ran it for 4 minutes on high without any problems no decrease in light output.

When i first received my "Olight RCR123A ORB-163P06" cells i decided to do a capacity check in my Opus C3100, they charged to fully with no problem, but as soon as i tried to discharge them at 200ma, the display on the charger showed NULL which means no battery detected.

I asked member HKJ and he said the C3100 used pulse discharge and that must have triggered the protection on the cell, though i have discharged loads of protected 18650 and a couple of old AW RCR123A and had no problems with them, so maybe the protection on the "Olight RCR123A ORB-163P06" is a bit sensitive :shrug:

The "Olight RCR123A ORB-163P06" cells discharged fine on my SkyRC MC3000 though.

John

inetdog · Dec 7, 2016

My venerable M20 Warrior started having intermittent problems after four years of EDC. The twist to change light levels became erratic and sometimes I had to bang the light to get it to turn on.
After thoroughly checking tail cap, etc. I disassembled the front assembly and found the reflector loose in the bezel holder.
Tightened that (w/o tools) and no problems for months. Repeat, tightened it harder and OK so far.

HughJorgan · Dec 7, 2016

Hey guys thanks for the additional replies and sorry I haven't caught up sooner, I had to step away for a few days. But, an update:

I bought a couple of 5C (ORB-163C05), charged them up on my VC2+, then tested. I ran the S1 on turbo long enough to step down and deplete about 40% of the battery with no issue, while I can still reproduce the problem with the older battery. So, whether the root cause was the overprotection circuit or it was something else with the ORB-163P06, the higher discharge cell works.

Same thing with the S10R I gifted a relative, problem went away after switching to the 5C.

Now we shall see if it stays that way over time...

And now I have to figure out if I can get away with using the older ORB-163P06 with my new H1 Nova, or if I need more ORB-163C05...

Thanks again.

Anyone else ever had this problem with an olight?

Newly Enlightened

Enlightened

Newly Enlightened

Flashlight Enthusiast

Newly Enlightened

Newly Enlightened

Flashlight Enthusiast

Enlightened

Newly Enlightened

Flashlight Enthusiast

Flashlight Enthusiast

Newly Enlightened

Flashlight Enthusiast

Enlightened

Enlightened

Enlightened

Enlightened

Flashlight Enthusiast

Enlightened

Newly Enlightened

Similar threads