Looking for a work light

novarider · Dec 12, 2016

I'm looking for a work light. I will mainly use it while working on my cars. This is what I'm looking for.

1: Can handle chemicals like brake fluid
2: Can be dropped and not dye
3: Takes 18650 batteries or other high capacity rechargeable batteries.
4: At least a few brightness settings (don't need strobe)
5: It would be great if it has a magnetic base and clip but just the base is OK.
6: I would like a floody light. It will be used in close proximity.
7: needs to be able to sit for a while and stay charged. I may use it several times a month or it may sit for a couple months without being used.
8: It may be used for hours at a time.

I used my nitecore p12 last night and it worked fairly well but it doesn't have a magnet. Plus it's my light I use for around the house, walking the dogs etc... So I need a dedicated work light.

I was considering the olight baton series but they seem to get bad reviews and have to be repaired a lot.

Thanks in advance for the help.

LeafSamurai · Dec 12, 2016

The Olight Baton series work just fine for me but if you want something similar, try the Fenix RC09 or Fenix RC11. Both have magnetic bases and they seem to be more robust than the Olight.

parametrek · Dec 12, 2016

Punching in your requirements, there is one series of models that stand out. Armytek's Wizard Pro has everything you want. It is unique in claiming 10 meter impact resistance. Right now there is cool white Wizard Pro for $45. (Though it is a barely cool white that some companies might call neutral.)

If you want a different tint, the most affordable way to get it is to order a normal Wizard ($45) and add the $6 magnetic tailcap accessory. I've done that if you have any questions. It is a fantastic little work light.

novarider · Dec 12, 2016

parametrek said:
Punching in your requirements, there is one series of models that stand out. Armytek's Wizard Pro has everything you want. It is unique in claiming 10 meter impact resistance. Right now there is cool white Wizard Pro for $45. (Though it is a barely cool white that some companies might call neutral.)

If you want a different tint, the most affordable way to get it is to order a normal Wizard ($45) and add the $6 magnetic tailcap accessory. I've done that if you have any questions. It is a fantastic little work light.

These look perfect except for the 90degree head. I'll have to do some thinking about this.

parametrek · Dec 12, 2016

An angle-head makes a much better work light. It is very easy to rotate it and point it at anything. Or wear it clipped to your shirt, or wear it as a headlamp to keep both hands free. The traditional flashlight shape is best for carrying while walking.

novarider · Dec 12, 2016

parametrek said:
An angle-head makes a much better work light. It is very easy to rotate it and point it at anything. Or wear it clipped to your shirt, or wear it as a headlamp to keep both hands free. The traditional flashlight shape is best for carrying while walking.

Unless its magnetically attached to something like the inside of a hood. In that case it's going to point towards the windshield not towards the engine where you need it.

AVService · Dec 12, 2016

I have been using one of these

http://www.streamlight.com/products/product-series/knucklehead

It is a pretty great rough use light for cars.
The head rotates completely and the magnet is insane!

I also like a small headlamp almost better though much of the time. I can put the light directly where I need it instead of lighting a whole area.
Having both is ideal too.

novarider · Dec 12, 2016

AVService said:
I have been using one of these

http://www.streamlight.com/products/product-series/knucklehead

It is a pretty great rough use light for cars.
The head rotates completely and the magnet is insane!

I also like a small headlamp almost better though much of the time. I can put the light directly where I need it instead of lighting a whole area.
Having both is ideal too.

I have a head lamp I could wear but I would rather not reach towards my eyes when i'm dealing with chemicals like brake fluid.

Tachead · Dec 12, 2016

novarider said:
These look perfect except for the 90degree head. I'll have to do some thinking about this.

Then go for the Prime C2 Pro XHP35 instead. It's almost the same light with a slightly different emitter and optic. It comes in cool or warm/neutral white as well.

iamlucky13 · Dec 12, 2016

My thought also turned to the Armytek Wizard Pro, assuming you were ok with the right angle head.

One further thought is about the Wizard's floody beam. Armytek's beam in particular is nice and smooth for lighting up most of the area close in front of your view, but not as good for seeing into nooks and crannies compared to a light with a definite hotspot.

The Armytek Prime C2 Pro is a straight flashlight form factor, also with a tailcap magnet. I don't own one, but I believe it is more throwy than floody.

That said, you can also come up with your own ways to attach magnets to other lights. I've seen several users put neodymium magnets on their pocket clips using heat shrink wrap to protect against chipping the magnets or scratching mounting surfaces, for example. The thought has occurred to me of coating a magnet in plasti-dip and gluing it onto the cap of flashlight as long as it doesn't have a tail switch.

novarider · Dec 12, 2016

iamlucky13 said:
My thought also turned to the Armytek Wizard Pro, assuming you were ok with the right angle head.

One further thought is about the Wizard's floody beam. Armytek's beam in particular is nice and smooth for lighting up most of the area close in front of your view, but not as good for seeing into nooks and crannies compared to a light with a definite hotspot.

The Armytek Prime C2 Pro is a straight flashlight form factor, also with a tailcap magnet. I don't own one, but I believe it is more throwy than floody.

That said, you can also come up with your own ways to attach magnets to other lights. I've seen several users put neodymium magnets on their pocket clips using heat shrink wrap to protect against chipping the magnets or scratching mounting surfaces, for example. The thought has occurred to me of coating a magnet in plasti-dip and gluing it onto the cap of flashlight as long as it doesn't have a tail switch.

To floody of a beam is a possible concern with the wizard but with 1000 Lumens would it still be a problem? The magnets on the clip with shrink wrap is pure genius! I'm going to do this to a couple lights for sure.

novarider · Dec 12, 2016

Tachead said:
Then go for the Prime C2 Pro XHP35 instead. It's almost the same light with a slightly different emitter and optic. It comes in cool or warm/neutral white as well.

What's the difference between the XHP35 and the XP-L?

Tachead · Dec 12, 2016

novarider said:
What's the difference between the XHP35 and the XP-L?

Look in the specs section and you can compare the two.

The XHP35 is a 12V quad die emitter(one of the newest generation of emitters). This model offers a higher output then the XP-L version.

There is nothing wrong with the XP-L either though and it is plenty bright.

iamlucky13 · Dec 12, 2016

novarider said:
To floody of a beam is a possible concern with the wizard but with 1000 Lumens would it still be a problem? The magnets on the clip with shrink wrap is pure genius! I'm going to do this to a couple lights for sure.

More lumens can help, but still be a problem because the nearer surfaces being brightly illuminated can be excessively bright compared to the depths you're trying to see.

I don't find it a major problem, because moving the light closer usually lets me get what I want illuminated. Also, if you were to get a throwy light and decided you would have been happier with a floody, there's a product called DC Fix that can be stuck to the lens to help diffuse the beam a bit. So...I'd say not to worry too much about it either way, but it's food for thought, to be considered based on how you find yourself actually using your light.

novarider · Dec 12, 2016

I have a question. On the Armytek website it lists the different lights available. At the end of the title there is a color listed (black,gold,silver) is that the color of the body of the light? For example does the title below mean it's a white color light and the body of the flashlight is black?
[h=1]Armytek Prime C2 Pro v2 XP-L (White). Black.[/h]

iamlucky13 · Dec 12, 2016

novarider said:
I have a question. On the Armytek website it lists the different lights available. At the end of the title there is a color listed (black,gold,silver) is that the color of the body of the light? For example does the title below mean it's a white color light and the body of the flashlight is black?
Armytek Prime C2 Pro v2 XP-L (White). Black.

White vs warm light tint in parenthesis. The second color specified is just the bezel that holds the lens in place. The body is always matte black. The bezel is normally polished steel, but they've also got a way to coat it in matte black to match the body or gold. That option ships from China only and takes longer to arrive.

novarider · Jan 2, 2017

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

I got both the Armytek wizard pro and prime pro and I'm considering returning both of them. I got the hxp in both lights and neither of them are as bright as I expected especially for 2000+ lumens. The prime is barely brighter than my Nitecore p12. Another thing is they get HOT quickly when in their brightest modes. They are to hot to hold within 2 minutes and in that same about of time my nitecore p12 is just barely warm.

iamlucky13 · Jan 4, 2017

It's unfortunate they aren't living up to your expectations. Are you definitely needing a significant brightness increase over your P12, or is it just a matter of expecting more difference? If you want more output, I think you're going to end up looking at multiple cell 18650 lights, or stepping up to 26650 lights like the Olight R50 or Acebeam EC50.

To dig a little deeper, there's a couple matters that probably should have been mentioned earlier:

1.) 2000 lumens takes a lot of juice. Not all 18650 batteries can sustain that. What battery are you using and how old is it?

2.) Our perception of brightness is not linear - what this means is that doubling the measured brightness does not appear to us as doubling the brightness. It's more like quadrupling the brightness is perceived as doubling.

3.) Many manufacturers, not just Armytek, play games with their specs, sometimes listing the lumens the LED produces, which due to optical losses, is not the same as what comes out the front (ANSI lumens). Armytek lists it both ways, in one place stating LED lumens (2100 for the Prime Pro XHP), and in another place stating the out the front lumens (1700). I'm pretty sure Nitecore always lists out-the-front lumens.

Although I can't say for sure, it may actually be performing as it should, but while noticeable, that won't be a night and day difference compared to the P12.

As for heat, they're generating almost twice the heat as the P12, but have smaller bodies to dissipate that heat into. Unfortunately, that means they're going to warm up faster, and stabilize at a higher temperature.

bykfixer · Jan 4, 2017

What I use when working on one of my cars with a really tight engine bay is the Streamlight Stylus Pro Reach.

It's a simple on/off little number with a flexible cord like attachment to the body that puts out an ideal amount of spot vs spill inside a garage lit by overheads.
Sticks easily to your tool chest when the day is through.

Realizing it does not meet the requested fuel or have multiple settings. But to this guy it's the Snap On camera of flashlights. It goes places only the camera can see and lights it very well yet not too much.
And triple A batteries are cheap. Runs fine off Eneloops if rechargeables are a must.

Magnet is plenty strong.

Nice n floody beam

About 15' away in afternoon lit room.

Magnet comes off if you want to clip it to a shirt, ball cap, small fasteners on the engine or sleeve etc and continue hands free operation.

Uses easy to find Stylus Pro/Microstream clips, tailcaps and switches if replacements are needed. Oh, and runs about $30 or less.

novarider · Jan 4, 2017

iamlucky13 said:
It's unfortunate they aren't living up to your expectations. Are you definitely needing a significant brightness increase over your P12, or is it just a matter of expecting more difference? If you want more output, I think you're going to end up looking at multiple cell 18650 lights, or stepping up to 26650 lights like the Olight R50 or Acebeam EC50.

To dig a little deeper, there's a couple matters that probably should have been mentioned earlier:

1.) 2000 lumens takes a lot of juice. Not all 18650 batteries can sustain that. What battery are you using and how old is it?

2.) Our perception of brightness is not linear - what this means is that doubling the measured brightness does not appear to us as doubling the brightness. It's more like quadrupling the brightness is perceived as doubling.

3.) Many manufacturers, not just Armytek, play games with their specs, sometimes listing the lumens the LED produces, which due to optical losses, is not the same as what comes out the front (ANSI lumens). Armytek lists it both ways, in one place stating LED lumens (2100 for the Prime Pro XHP), and in another place stating the out the front lumens (1700). I'm pretty sure Nitecore always lists out-the-front lumens.

Although I can't say for sure, it may actually be performing as it should, but while noticeable, that won't be a night and day difference compared to the P12.

As for heat, they're generating almost twice the heat as the P12, but have smaller bodies to dissipate that heat into. Unfortunately, that means they're going to warm up faster, and stabilize at a higher temperature.

No it doesn't need to be brighter than my P12 I just compared them because I really like my P12. It's my go to light.

I bought new Panasonic ncr18650b batteries from imrbatteries.com to use in these Armytek lights

Honestly the heat is my biggest problem with these lights.

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