Replacing 47s Quark Mini 123

JLeephoto

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I've been looking for a modern replacement for a quark mini 123 that can run rcr123s. Picked up an Olight S1 Baton but the form factor (hard to find button) and UI just doesn't do it for me and I've gone back to the old quark.
Looking for a low low and a high in the 200-300lm range with good tint. Love my ZL headlamps if that helps.
Appreciate any suggestions.
 

RollerBoySE

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I have replaced my Mini with an Eagletac D25C.
Lots of different versions that caters to different needs.

Titanium and Nichia 219B does the trick for me.
 
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NutSAK

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I've been looking for a modern replacement for a quark mini 123 that can run rcr123s. Picked up an Olight S1 Baton but the form factor (hard to find button) and UI just doesn't do it for me and I've gone back to the old quark.
Looking for a low low and a high in the 200-300lm range with good tint. Love my ZL headlamps if that helps.
Appreciate any suggestions.

I've recently been through a similar search to replace a MiNi AA that quit working. I couldn't find anything with the small form factor that had a UI that always starts in "moon" mode like the MiNi does, so I found another one. I will be interested to see what suggestions you get here. Good luck in your search!
 

eraursls1984

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I've recently been through a similar search to replace a MiNi AA that quit working. I couldn't find anything with the small form factor that had a UI that always starts in "moon" mode like the MiNi does, so I found another one. I will be interested to see what suggestions you get here. Good luck in your search!
The AA had a moon mode? I only had a M2A and recently picked up a ML (Mini 123) and would love it if they had a moon mode.
 

JLeephoto

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Zebralight sc32w?

I'd somehow overlooked the 32. Good recommendation. I already like the programmable UI. I guess you just don't hear as much about the 32 series compared to the other options.
 

JLeephoto

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I have replaced my Mini with an Eagletac D25C.
Lots of different versions that caters to different needs.

Titanium and Nichia 219B does the trick for me.

Also looks like a good option. Trying to better understand the UI.
 

JLeephoto

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If you like the Quark, why not consider the FourSevens Mini Mk II ?

I think I'd rather have a clicky and the ability to start in the lowest mode. Having to go through high to get to moonlight as I understand would be a deal killer for me.
 

eraursls1984

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I think I'd rather have a clicky and the ability to start in the lowest mode. Having to go through high to get to moonlight as I understand would be a deal killer for me.
Moonlight without the ability to access it from off is useless, IMO. I don't understand the reasoning behind this at all.
 

JLeephoto

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Moonlight without the ability to access it from off is useless, IMO. I don't understand the reasoning behind this at all.

Theoretically you could turn it off in moonlight and it would start there but I don't trust myself to remember to do so every time and would forever be blinding myself and waking the family.
 

NutSAK

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Theoretically you could turn it off in moonlight and it would start there but I don't trust myself to remember to do so every time and would forever be blinding myself and waking the family.

I purchased a MiNi Mk II to sample, and I've tried to remember to set it to moonlight each time, but it doesn't work for me either. For my uses, I need to be able to select the mode I want before I turn the light on, or be able to have direct access to the lowest mode from off, à la MiNi Mk I and Zebralight.
 
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Jose Marin

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Fenix e15 is pretty much the same size, it's a twisty though but it always starts on low. 450 lumens, can take 123s or 16340. If you are willing to go bigger i highly suggest going to foursevens website, go to the accessories page and peice together your own quark. I recommend quark qp2l-x head, L series body, quark pro tail cap. Only thing is you cant run cr123s in it, just 16340. It has a very low direct access ml and direct access turbo 780 lumens oh and no fricken slow pwm like the quark minis have blaaah. Hope that helps.



Btw they are both cool white only unfortunately but i dont mind the tint on either personally, there's always going to be something lol
 
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JLeephoto

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I keep coming back to the ZLs as I like the scroll through interface and the sub modes. I honestly don't like the appearance as well but pretty is as pretty does right.
Now my debate is the smaller brighter sc32 run on RCRs or the sc52 on Eneloops.
I have only one other aa light so it might be a good option for that reason alone if it's small enough to be a daily EDC.
 

INFRNL

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I keep coming back to the ZLs as I like the scroll through interface and the sub modes. I honestly don't like the appearance as well but pretty is as pretty does right.
Now my debate is the smaller brighter sc32 run on RCRs or the sc52 on Eneloops.
I have only one other aa light so it might be a good option for that reason alone if it's small enough to be a daily EDC.

The sc52 can also run off 14500 but I don't know if that's any better than an eneloop.

I have an old quark 123 in cool white. Not sure how much i like the size anymore. Great little light but i prefer my quark x 123x2 neutral more. Just wish 4/7 would accommodate a 18mm cell although the rcr123 and 16340 have been working fine for my use

Best of luck in your decision. I'm on a hunt of my own to add a few more various brands/ sizes to the 2 quarks I currently own
 
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yellow

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the new "extra" versions of the Mini MKII - 2 kinds of copper, 2 kinds of titanium - equipped with "warm white" led,
DO START in moonlight, when they have been run in moonlight before ...
(Just got the autumn copper 1 week ago and playing with it sience)

quite some time ago, I were with the "the light has to always start in low"-crowd, but when You need a brighter level, and that often, with times of total off in between, having to click through all the lower ones is also not the best thing.
Having a light that runs with remember last setting offers advantage to "always start in level XX" - as soon as one gets used to it

The "best" were one, that always starts in low/moonlight at the 1st use, but then going remember last setting, with going back to start in low/moonlight after - say - 1/2 a hour(?)

PS, a few cons to the mini MKII:
* the level setup (low --> med --> high --> moonlight. as is set now) is not always consistent
* it is an optic light, not a reflectored one! Means more-or-less one wide beam, not main beam + spill around. It works good for intended use
* if one has Quarks than this one might be considered "warm".
But a bit on the green side (well, my bad, of course. Why do I order a light where there is no led tint named) :rolleyes:
 
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RollerBoySE

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the new "extra" versions of the Mini MKII - 2 kinds of copper, 2 kinds of titanium - equipped with "warm white" led,
DO START in moonlight, when they have been run in moonlight before ...
(Just got the autumn copper 1 week ago and playing with it sience)

quite some time ago, I were with the "the light has to always start in low"-crowd, but when You need a brighter level, and that often, with times of total off in between, having to click through all the lower ones is also not the best thing.
Having a light that runs with remember last setting offers advantage to "always start in level XX" - as soon as one gets used to it

The "best" were one, that always starts in low/moonlight at the 1st use, but then going remember last setting, with going back to start in low/moonlight after - say - 1/2 a hour(?)

PS, a few cons to the mini MKII:
* the level setup (low --> med --> high --> moonlight. as is set now) is not always consistent
* it is an optic light, not a reflectored one! Means more-or-less one wide beam, not main beam + spill around. It works good for intended use
* if one has Quarks than this one might be considered "warm".
But a bit on the green side (well, my bad, of course. Why do I order a light where there is no led tint named) :rolleyes:

The deal breaker for me is that there is no high CRI version offered.
(The old Mini was one of the first lights on the market with a high CRI version.)
 

AVService

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I keep coming back to the ZLs as I like the scroll through interface and the sub modes. I honestly don't like the appearance as well but pretty is as pretty does right.
Now my debate is the smaller brighter sc32 run on RCRs or the sc52 on Eneloops.
I have only one other aa light so it might be a good option for that reason alone if it's small enough to be a daily EDC.


I have carried an SC52 since they first came out and I also have a spare one just in case,it is the EDC I stick with regardless of the 2nd light I also always carry which can change as I try different lights.
I think the aa platform is ideal for me for a lot of reasons and the ability of the SC52 to run on all cells that size is pretty huge too!
On 14500 the light gets a lot brighter on High if that is important for you but I prefer Lithium or leaker primaries for my use as it is just so easy to keep going.
I also use Eneloops in it but the SC5 does do better on Eneloop but then I am back to the hassle of charging.
You likely already have to charge batteries all the time in Photography,I know I do for Event Work for sure so maybe this is not a big deal for you but to me the SC5 is also just bigger enough to be bad to EDC for me compared to the SC52.

One thing I do know for sure though is that if you get 1 ZL there will be more!
 
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