*NEW* Eagletac TX30C2 - Nichia 219C HiCri 4000K Beam-shot comparison and impressions.

Mr. Tone said:

Thanks for sharing. The magnet in the tailcap? I guess I overlooked that on the specs, I didn't know there was one. Once I receive mine, I will post my thoughts and impressions as well.

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Mr. Tone said:

Thanks for sharing. The magnet in the tailcap? I guess I overlooked that on the specs, I didn't know there was one. Once I receive mine, I will post my thoughts and impressions as well.

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hatman said:

Thanks for the photos!

I like my ET tail clickies and I backed off buying a new TX because of the two button selectors. Have you used two-button models before? How do you like this one?

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Lex Icon said:

TX30C2 - 219C HiCri 4000K in a beam shot compared with the 219B HiCri (sw45) – MX25L3C
in addition to a Cree 5A (Astrolux S1)

Nichia 219C HiCri 4000K on the left………………..Cree 5A 4000K on the right.

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I will be posting more comparison photos, of course everybody is invited to do the same. Luckily I have a couple of CREE 5A 4000K lights, both are Astrolux S1 models (BLF A6 clones). They produce an identical tint, very different from a Nichia HiCri. It is hard to believe they are all 4000K.

The Eagletac and Astrolux both were fueled by recently charged, nearly new LG HG2 batteries, photographed equal distance from a neutral white wall, from two positions, with slightly different exposure settings, daylight white balance, using a Nokia Lumia 830 cell phone. No intentional image manipulation was performed other than cropping. However, the common tendency of a low quality imaging chip, such as found in a medium priced cell phone, to saturate colors, is demonstrated here. Images should preferably be acquired in RAW format, with a color chart included.
Rather than de-saturate the images and lower the contrast, or re-calibrate the photos, I will simply mention there is the very slightest hint of pale green in the corona of the Nichia when projected on a white wall, and the real world difference between the two flavors of LEDs is in fact striking. This 219C is also shown alongside a 219B (sw45) tint, since it represents a reference for many addicted to Nichia tints.

Machining and anodization are flawless, the LED is well centered in a spotless reflector.
The black (Turbo) button is slightly recessed in comparison with the white mode selector button. The magnet in the tail-cap will barely hold the light onto a refrigerator door, using the extension tube would make it even more difficult.
It does hold on better to the underside of the opened freezer compartment door however.

219C HiCri 4000K in a beam shot compared with the 219B HiCri (sw45) – MX25L3C

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Here is what happens when you place a Nichia HiCri 219C 4000K from an Eagletac TX30C2 (left)

Next to a Nichia HiCri 219B sw45 (~4500K) from a MX25L3C (right)

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*Real world perception of the variance is slightly exaggerated by this photo​

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Lex Icon said:

This is the most faithful rendition of the TX3C2's tint

with the 219C 4000k to the left of a CREE 3D in an Astrolux S1
The CREE 3D is the closest of the 219C LED's adversaries to a neutral tint, perhaps giving less bias to the imagining circuit.

(Below)The 219C 4000K to the left of a Nitecore MH10 (XM-L2 cw)

Dedicated to those of us longing for a Nichia flavored Zebralight.....​

TX30C2 (219C HiCri 4000K) on the left……….ZL H600 MKII (XM-L2 cw) on the right​

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INFRNL said:

Thanks for the pics Lex.

It's crazy how you think a certain light looks great(by itself or compared to one of lesser quality than you like)), but then you compare to something else and the one you thought was great: does not look so great anymore. ie: tx30 compared to mx25/ ZL sc600 compared to tx30

In some pics the tx30c2 looks great/right, but then you had to ruin it by comparing to the

Nichia HiCri 219B sw45 (~4500K) from a MX25L3C (right).

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Now the MX25l3C looks like what we liked initially about the tx30c2. Although that is not a fair comparison being that the mx25l3c uses 3 emitters. We need a similar light with 4500k 219b in comparison. Would also be nice if someone had the neutral white xhp35 compared to the nichia 219c (oops, nevermind; its not an option on this particular light but it is an option on one of the new models)

I'm still interested though along with a couple others.

Thanks again, I appreciate your time posting this info along with the beamshots

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vadimax said:

MX25L3C is this:
People must be strange to compare it to one LED, one cell light.

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Lex Icon said:

Your point is well taken.

Our eyes become adjusted rapidly to changes in light and color intensities, along with alterations in tint and color temperature.
The human retina with its different color cone receptors, like electronic imaging sensors with their circuits, have evolved, or are designed, to compensate and adjust.

The truth is, alone by themselves, either Nichia HiCri tint, the 219C 4000K, or the 219B sw45, are delicious for the eyes.
Unless you make a pastime of photographing neutral white walls, the ever so slight pale green hints in the corona of the 219C will likely pass unnoticed. The same thing has been said by others who have studied the difference between the two LED flavors.
The higher lumen flux level of the 219C give it the advantage for single LED designs, although the newer 219BT-V1 HiCri 4000K is said to have an advantage over the previous design of the 219B used in the now discontinued MX25L3C used for the comparison. I have purchased some 219BT-V1 LEDs with intention of using them for future comparisons.

The CREE 5As in my Astrolux S1s, however, need no side by side comparisons, they are truly ghastly, like they were snaked out of some manufacturer's trash bin. The first one I received was so bad, I ordered another in disbelief, figuring if the second was also horrible, I would try my hand reflowing the LEDs.
Future photos I post will demonstrate the difference between the two Nichias by pointing them at opposite ends of a pale, pastel sofa, under a large pale pastel painting, with something white at the corners of the sofa.
Due to the fact that the MX2L3C has a bit over twice the ANSI lumen output (even though it has 6 times the number of LEDs), it will be placed further from the sofa in order to equalize the relative lumination output. As in the previous photo of the white wall, both lights will be operated at their highest levels to be fair. At whatever distance, tint comparisons remain relevant.

As far as any indecision regarding buying the 219C 4000K because of a slight inferiority to a Nichia sw45, I would suggest you do not let it become an issue, since the cell phone's imaging chip amplified the difference to an extent. In a light such as the TX30C2, with a well-designed circuit, you will appreciate the added lumens, and give up looking for any hints or green in casual, everyday use of the flashlight.

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Lex Icon said:

I prefer the new two button version UI Eagletac has adopted over the classic twist ring selection on my MX25L3C. Mechanical interfaces require special cleaning and lubrication over time, and the two button UI makes it easier to operate with one hand, in my experience.
If all my lights had the Zebralight UI, things would be even simpler, since I use my ZLs the most.

I haven't used two button UIs before.
The Black Turbo button is a bit stiff, and purposefully recessed it seems, perhaps to avoid unintentional activation.
Like the clip, it offers a good amount of resistance, perhaps more than necessary.

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Tachead said:

Hey Lex, since you are a ZL fan, is there any chance you have the SC600w MKIII HI? If so, could you please let us know your opinions of it vs the TX30C2 219C? Which do you like better and what are the pros and cons of each? Thanks.

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Lex Icon said:

Count me in as one who would like to see a comparison of that particular ZL, with my sample of the new TX30L2.
As you have pointed out elsewhere, one example does not make a consensus, but it would be a start.

If I were limited to only one flashlight, the ZL 600w HI would probably be my first choice, since it seems to cover so many bases. I trust ZL quality, and have come to regard the UI on a friendly basis. My hope would be that I didn't end up receiving one rejected and returned by a tint snob/elitist with the same tastes I possess.
That particular ZL light has been at the top of my 'next purchase' list since before it was released. The last time it got bumped aside was when the 2017 line up of Eagtac lights was announced.
The ZL designers have to be proud of the technological masterpieces they offer, leaving us only to wonder if they actually use their lights as the rest of us mortals are habituated. Sometimes those who are supremely gifted as technicians, are less experiential.
The young owner of Eagtac seems interested in listening, giving customers what they want, and should be congratulated for the width and breathe of offerings with 'real world' options (even though Eagtac model designations remain a gobbledygook).
Hopefully, both companies will continue to pursue their goals, and tempt our budgets. I passed on the ZL HI because I lacked a decent thrower in my line up, and the TX25 had been in my sights for a number of years.

As far as my personal opinions regarding tint, binning, HI CRI, and CREE vs. Nichia 219B/C, my needs are atypical.
As you have competently and thoroughly pointed out in the tint snob and various ZL threads, there are many variables involved.
Though my vision possesses acuity, there are issues making me sensitive to high levels of contrast, which in itself, paradoxically, remains necessary to compensate for my impairment. I need to distinguish contrast in color, but excessive floaters in my field of vision are exacerbated by strong daylight, and other high levels of stark illumination.
The 219B (sw45) and 219C 4000K. LEDs I possess are much more visually comfortable than any of my present CREEs, by far. That said, I have ordered some specifically binned CREE LEDs from RMM to replace the nasty examples of CREE 5As in the Astrolux S1s.
I have also ordered some 4000K. 219BT-V1s from Illumination supply for use in a Mecarmy PT-18 triple.

If I am successful at reflowing, my plan is to post some beam shots in a week or so. Having three 219B 4000K. 93 CRI LEDs will average out for a better comparison with the 219C 4000K. in the Eagletac.

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Lex Icon said:

Count me in as one who would like to see a comparison of that particular ZL, with my sample of the new TX30L2.
As you have pointed out elsewhere, one example does not make a consensus, but it would be a start.

If I were limited to only one flashlight, the ZL 600w HI would probably be my first choice, since it seems to cover so many bases. I trust ZL quality, and have come to regard the UI on a friendly basis. My hope would be that I didn't end up receiving one rejected and returned by a tint snob/elitist with the same tastes I possess.
That particular ZL light has been at the top of my 'next purchase' list since before it was released. The last time it got bumped aside was when the 2017 line up of Eagtac lights was announced.
The ZL designers have to be proud of the technological masterpieces they offer, leaving us only to wonder if they actually use their lights as the rest of us mortals are habituated. Sometimes those who are supremely gifted as technicians, are less experiential.
The young owner of Eagtac seems interested in listening, giving customers what they want, and should be congratulated for the width and breathe of offerings with 'real world' options (even though Eagtac model designations remain a gobbledygook).
Hopefully, both companies will continue to pursue their goals, and tempt our budgets. I passed on the ZL HI because I lacked a decent thrower in my line up, and the TX25 had been in my sights for a number of years.

As far as my personal opinions regarding tint, binning, HI CRI, and CREE vs. Nichia 219B/C, my needs are atypical.
As you have competently and thoroughly pointed out in the tint snob and various ZL threads, there are many variables involved.
Though my vision possesses acuity, there are issues making me sensitive to high levels of contrast, which in itself, paradoxically, remains necessary to compensate for my impairment. I need to distinguish contrast in color, but excessive floaters in my field of vision are exacerbated by strong daylight, and other high levels of stark illumination.
The 219B (sw45) and 219C 4000K. LEDs I possess are much more visually comfortable than any of my present CREEs, by far. That said, I have ordered some specifically binned CREE LEDs from RMM to replace the nasty examples of CREE 5As in the Astrolux S1s.
I have also ordered some 4000K. 219BT-V1s from Illumination supply for use in a Mecarmy PT-18 triple.

If I am successful at reflowing, my plan is to post some beam shots in a week or so. Having three 219B 4000K. 93 CRI LEDs will average out for a better comparison with the 219C 4000K. in the Eagletac.

Click to expand...