Olight S1 Batons, torn between titanium, copper, stainless, or aluminum

LED1982 · Feb 4, 2017

I want to buy this tiny Olight S1 but can't decide on material. It most likely will go through many drops, lots of dirt & grime, and scratching from keys and sharp objects in pocket. So I just want to ask about the pros & cons of each when it comes to heat sinking/stepdown, and impact durability. Ok I'm assuming that titanium wins the battle with drop/impact resistance, however, does the fact that the body is tougher than the regular aluminum help the internals at all from breaking if it took a very hard spill? So is the added ruggedness factor of titanium only helpful for the appearance of the exterior? And lets just talk about scratching, does the bright polished version of titanium show abuse faster than the bead blasted titanium would?

Copper, has to have the best heat sinking and be the slowest to step down correct? Can someone rank heat sinking from best to worst? I assume copper best, and titanium worst but I'm not sure. Now what about impact for copper, is it more vulnerable to denting or chipping than all the others? I know it will be heaviest.

Stainless steel, I have no clue where it ranks for anything, denting, heat sink, weight, scratching, or durability. I don't mean the same thing when I say denting and durability, for durability I mean that if I drop light onto the sidewalk from my 3rd floor window and the copper light dents but still works, but the titanium light doesn't have a scratch on it but it stops working, then the copper is more durable even though it dented. Thank you for any replies!

the0dore3524 · Feb 4, 2017

Stainless steel is actually stronger than titanium - correct me if I'm wrong on that, but I believe that's what I saw when I last looked up their Ultimate Tensile Strengths. It just weighs a lot more which is why people like to go with Titanium (plus the bling factor?) Copper is a no-no for drops, because it's so malleable. But you are correct that it will absorb heat the best. With aluminum you have sort of a balance between all the metals - it offers decent conductivity and while not the strongest, is definitely stronger than copper.

So for strength I would go:
Stainless Steel > Titanium > Aluminum > Copper

Conductivity/Heat Sink:
Copper > Aluminum > Stainless Steel/Titanium (not rlly sure)

AVService · Feb 4, 2017

These are tiny lights and I drop mine all the time even when trying not to.
It just depends on your needs really.
I have Aluminum which has a black coating and polished Ti which will get scratched if you use it at all but it is another tool to me and I am not concerned with scratching.

Most of the colored finishes are coated and so they will scratch and peel at some point.
The Ti and Brass I think are real metal but I think the Coppers are also coated?

Anyway if its a tool ,why worry about it and if not,why worry about it too!

They develop a charcater so you can tell that they are yours!

jon_slider · Feb 4, 2017

weight comparison
copper 100%
aluminum 30%
brass 95%
stainless 87%
titanium 51%

electrical conductivity
copper 100%
aluminum 61%
brass 28%
stainless 15%
titanium 3% (Ti data from here)

thermal conductivity
copper 100%
aluminum 53%
brass 29%
Stainless 4%
titanium 6%

Aluminum is the lowest weight, followed by Titanium
Copper is more than 3 times heavier than aluminum, and copper is twice as heavy as titanium

I would avoid Brass because it is as heavy as copper with only 1/3 the conductivity.
I would avoid Stainless because it is almost as heavy as brass and a worse conductor

that leaves Copper, Alum, and Ti

Im a copper fan. Pennies survive dropping just fine. So what if they get scratched. Copper is Magic Stuff!

I avoid Aluminum, it is toxic.. I know, Im weird.

That leaves Titanium. Do I want it pre scratched (sandblasted), NO!

My suggestion then, is, Buy One Copper, and One Titanium, and One Aluminum, and decide for yourself

INFRNL · Feb 4, 2017

This is a tough one...

I think for heat transfer it would be (best to worse): copper, Aluminum, titanium, stainless (Ti/stainless would be a toss up, idk)
Aluminum would be best for durability I think, but if it's aluminum steel if will be brittle, same with Ti, its the strongest by weight/strength but more brittle than a softer metal like stainless or copper.

I think in this case of an identical light, the Ti and stainless will be very similar in strength but a slight edge to to stainless for abuse durability since it is a softer metal.

copper will be the heaviest, then stainless, then either aluminum/Ti.

Titanium will be best for corrosion and scratches. Depending on the quality of the stainless, it could rust very easily unless it is made from a very good grade of stainless.

Bead blasted finishes offer a nice texture/feel but is not necessarily better for scratch resistance. If you scuff a bead blasted finish, there is no fixing it; it's a done deal unless you have it re-media blasted. Titanium would be best if you wanted to clean up the surface and get it looking close to new again.

Not sure if i missed anything but its a start and Theo has already covered most of it

If the aluminum is anything like my old 4/7, it will eventually break/chip. I had mine sitting with some tools and I accidentally stepped on it; now there is a chip in the bezel and the o-ring is coming out from the bezel/lens. If you are going to be dropping it quite often it will get beat up

Titanium, I think would hold up but it may eventually chip as well since it is a brittle alloy as well.

Copper will obviously dent but i think would survive over time.

Stainless might be your best choice if you don't care about trying to restore it's finish. It is strong, and will dent/ding but not as easily as copper. Also SS will not be the best for heat transfer; however Ti lights have been fine.

Best of luck, it will still be a hard choice. Overall, I think any of them would hold up well and there would be minor differences in ea alloy for this particular light.

NoNotAgain · Feb 4, 2017

I've got at least one of every flavor that Olight makes of the S1 including the Rose Gold version.

Anyone IMO that worries about heat transfer on a single CR123 cell light, need to find something else to concern themselves with.

My two daily carry lights are the S1 in to and the titanium FireFly. The FireFly resides inside the coil pocket on my jeans and the S1 is clipped reversed on the inside of the pants pocket.

LED1982 · Feb 4, 2017

Thanks a lot great information. That percentage chart was very helpful, can't believe how pathetic stainless & titanium are with thermal conductivity. The light is so small that not only do I think I don't mind the weight I might actually prefer it heavier because it will feel cooler. Pretty much sounds like unless I baby the thing forget it it's gonna get beat up so don't even care about the looks, wasn't sure how ding resistant titanium was exactly. Well polished titanium looks the coolest but that will change so probably not worth buying for that reason. Ok i get it copper is not only the least strong but will also fall the hardest because of weight, after reading all of this I've concluded to say oh well to drops and dings since they'll all look beat up eventually anyway, ok then copper it is!! Now if we were talking about a much larger light copper might not be the choice (if abuse was still a factor). Thanks everyone.

firsttothescene · Feb 4, 2017

The s1 does not come in ss, just the smini.

AVService · Feb 4, 2017

firsttothescene said:
The s1 does not come in ss, just the smini.

I am pretty sure that they both do but it is not raw SS it is PVD coated Stainless and thus is coated AND heavy but cool looking too in what they call Thunder Grey.
Only the 2 Ti and Raw Brass and Copper are not coated so nothing there to wear off or chip though.

firsttothescene · Feb 4, 2017

S1 does not come in the thunder grey(ss). s1a and smini are the only 2 in thunder grey.

AVService · Feb 4, 2017

firsttothescene said:
S1 does not come in the thunder grey(ss). s1a and smini are the only 2 in thunder grey.

I sort of consider the S1A to be an S1 too.

CREEXHP70LED · Feb 7, 2017

jon_slider said:
weight comparison
copper 100%
aluminum 30%
brass 95%
stainless 87%
titanium 51%

electrical conductivity
copper 100%
aluminum 61%
brass 28%
stainless 15%
titanium 3% (Ti data from here)

thermal conductivity
copper 100%
aluminum 53%
brass 29%
Stainless 4%
titanium 6%

Aluminum is the lowest weight, followed by Titanium
Copper is more than 3 times heavier than aluminum, and copper is twice as heavy as titanium

I would avoid Brass because it is as heavy as copper with only 1/3 the conductivity.
I would avoid Stainless because it is almost as heavy as brass and a worse conductor

that leaves Copper, Alum, and Ti

Im a copper fan. Pennies survive dropping just fine. So what if they get scratched. Copper is Magic Stuff!

I avoid Aluminum, it is toxic.. I know, Im weird.

That leaves Titanium. Do I want it pre scratched (sandblasted), NO!

My suggestion then, is, Buy One Copper, and One Titanium, and One Aluminum, and decide for yourself

+1 Also note Stainless is toxic. I am talking about when heated though. When welding these two metals SS gives you Parkinsons disease and Aluminum Alzheimers. Don't even try welding Galvanized metal fume fever will put the toughest man down. But I digress as we are talking flashlight bodies here. lol.

kreisl · Feb 7, 2017

AVService said:
I sort of consider the S1A to be an S1 too.

I have S1A , Smini and S1 , all in special metal SS or Ti. They are all the same.

NoNotAgain · Feb 7, 2017

CREEXHP70LED said:
+1 Also note Stainless is toxic. I am talking about when heated though. When welding these two metals SS gives you Parkinsons disease and Aluminum Alzheimers. Don't even try welding Galvanized metal fume fever will put the toughest man down. But I digress as we are talking flashlight bodies here. lol.[/]

The only studies I've seen connecting a weld process to Parkinson's disease has been welding aluminum a containing high levels of manganese.

You stand a greater chance of in jesting aluminum from cooking ware than from welding aluminum all day long. Weld shops have smog hogs and are required to test employees for heavy metals and get chest X-rays.

Welding any corrosion resistant metal containing chromium can increase the risk of developing cancer. Same if you were eating thoriated tungsten.

Welding galvanized metal exposes you to zinc poisoning.

The entire weld process isn't 100% safe, but you can limit your exposure. (ARC flash, shield gases, uv radiation and other toxic metals).

We're talking about using a completed product, a flashlight, not fabricating thousands of them a day.

If you like the appearance of the light, purchase it and enjoy. Life's too short to worry about things you've got no control over.

djans1397 · Feb 9, 2017

Titanium is overrated and generally have gritty threads. Steel...why?

aluminum offers light weight and nice threads.

copper, though heavy, is just cool!

I preder al for the light weight pocket feel. Cheap. Made to be a real user.

gunga · Feb 9, 2017

Yep. Just decide. Is it a user? Do you want any "cool" or different metal? They all work fine. Aluminum is the most practical. The others have cachet for different reasons.

AVService · Feb 9, 2017

kreisl said:
I have S1A , Smini and S1 , all in special metal SS or Ti. They are all the same.

Are you actually agreeing with me or something?
I can't tell. :poke:

jon_slider · Feb 9, 2017

djans1397 said:
Titanium... generally have gritty threads.

I agree, imo Titanium is fine for a clicky light, but not for a twisty.
I also agree Aluminum has the lowest weight of any metal, and conducts heat better than Titanium, Stainless, or Brass.

Stainless and Brass are almost as heavy as Copper, but have very poor heat conductivity of Copper. If Im going to buy a heavy light, it would be Copper. And if Im going to buy Copper, I do not want it to be coated with PVD, nor lacquer.

the OP ended up going with Copper, I hope he comes back with his impressions.

since Im a metals snob, I dont buy Aluminum, Stainless, nor Brass, but I would buy Titanium, or Copper.
choices are good

Dthoreson81 · Feb 9, 2017

Bought a AA version in copper. It's heavy, but I like knowing my light is there should I need it in a hurry.

Plus. Copper.

CREEXHP70LED · Feb 9, 2017

NoNotAgain said:
CREEXHP70LED said:

+1 Also note Stainless is toxic. I am talking about when heated though. When welding these two metals SS gives you Parkinsons disease and Aluminum Alzheimers. Don't even try welding Galvanized metal fume fever will put the toughest man down. But I digress as we are talking flashlight bodies here. lol.[/]

The only studies I've seen connecting a weld process to Parkinson's disease has been welding aluminum a containing high levels of manganese.

You stand a greater chance of in jesting aluminum from cooking ware than from welding aluminum all day long. Weld shops have smog hogs and are required to test employees for heavy metals and get chest X-rays.

Welding any corrosion resistant metal containing chromium can increase the risk of developing cancer. Same if you were eating thoriated tungsten.

Welding galvanized metal exposes you to zinc poisoning.

The entire weld process isn't 100% safe, but you can limit your exposure. (ARC flash, shield gases, uv radiation and other toxic metals).

We're talking about using a completed product, a flashlight, not fabricating thousands of them a day.

If you like the appearance of the light, purchase it and enjoy. Life's too short to worry about things you've got no control over.

Click to expand...

I was just responding to jon slider not liking aluminum. I welded on everything except galvanized five hours a day five days a week for seven months. I am not worried about it. although HF TIG welding did cause eye damage even though I was wearing the correct number lens. I am not worried at all about my aluminum lights. Your right cooking in aluminum is not good for you.

Olight S1 Batons, torn between titanium, copper, stainless, or aluminum

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