Fitting a drop-in into a Malkoff

Dr Forinor

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I've ordered an M361N-LMH for my MD2 (currently I only have the one output with the high/low ring installed). I always felt I wanted a mid ground between the high and low, so obviously the M361 it was.

I unscrewed the high/low ring using circlip pliers, and to remove the drop-in, I pushed inwards from the head side, took a little effort but came out fine.
To reinstalled, is it simply a case of "drop and screw ring", or is there more to it? I might be being paranoid, but it looks like there is a small gap between the drop-in glass and the head?
 

Grizzman

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Installation is the exact opposite as the removal. If the gasket, lens, and drop-in are in place, then the high/low ring screws in behind them.
 

Dr Forinor

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There was a bit of waffle about the O ring(s) in the Junkie thread. It starts about here....
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...hread-Part-2&p=5027968&viewfull=1#post5027968

But rest assured it's as straightforward as you think.
P

Thank you for that link.

My other reason for concern was when I had to get out of the head, it required a bit of a push, almost as if there may be a "friction fit" element to it, in addition to the gasket. And when I placed it back in, it seemed to be "frictionless".
 

peter yetman

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What has happened with mine in the past is that the gasket between the lens and the bezel seems to stick them togeteher, in fact the gasket normally stays stuck against the inside of the head. It does make refitting it easier though.
The lens kits from Malkoff come or came with two gaskets one large and one small. I use the big one on the outside of the lens and the small one on the inside, against the reflector shelf. Belt and braces.
P
 

Dr Forinor

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Ah, didn't realise the gasket was a separate item to the head and drop-in. But yes my gasket was stuck to the head also, but I figured it was part of the head (I bought my MD2 fully assembled).
 

bykfixer

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All of those tight tolerances makes for more efficient heat sync-age. That is one of Gene Malkoffs magic tricks. Very good heat sync.

You may notice some lights seem to 'heat up' faster than others. That is a good thing since that means it is radiating away from the light source very effectively, thereby protecting it from baking while allowing a steadier output as a lamp tends to dim as it cooks.
 

scs

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All of those tight tolerances makes for more efficient heat sync-age. That is one of Gene Malkoffs magic tricks. Very good heat sync.

You may notice some lights seem to 'heat up' faster than others. That is a good thing since that means it is radiating away from the light source very effectively, thereby protecting it from baking while allowing a steadier output as a lamp tends to dim as it cooks.

True, if you can compare the same drop in in different hosts. But among different lights, just going by that alone, I also wonder whether the one that heats up faster simply has lower quality driver design and/or construction with more resistance, e.g. it heats up faster because it gets hotter than the other lights, or its heatsink is smaller in area and/or mass.
 

Dr Forinor

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Sorry, am I being a bit dumb here?

The physical drop-in, does that come with a glass lens or not?

The one from my old drop-in glass lens fell out when I took the drop-in out, placed that lens onto the new drop-in, fitted it with ring but the glass seems to move around a little.

Is anything wrong here?
 

ven

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My m361n has no glass/lens , so its open................when fitted the lens is used in the host if makes sense.
 

ven

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Can use an O ring above if you need to hold in place, i find a large spring a the base of the drop in enough usually(host dependent).

Example here(spring)
 

peter yetman

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When you clamp up the retaining ring it should squash the lens between the gasket and the reflector shelf making it solid. if it's still moving about there's a problem.
If you mean it moves about when you place the lens into the drop in (on the shelf) prior to clamping up the retaining ring that's normal.
I tend to place the lens onto the shelf while pointing the drop in at the ceiling, then lay the gasket on top (if it's not still stuck to the bezel) then place the head over the drop in and push the drop in up and home into he head. Now you can turn it over and fit the retaining ring. Screw the ring in, but before it gets tight, check that the drop in is centred relative to the ring (it fits into a rebate in the ring) then screw the ring tight. All should now be solid and immoveable.
P
 
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Grizzman

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The shelf depth of some drop-ins is greater than others. Malkoff has introduced a gasket that can be placed between the lens and the drop-ins shelf if it is less while fully tightened.
 

Dr Forinor

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OK, not a n00b moment, let me just illustrate what I'm doing, this is the Malkoff MD2;

1. Unscrew retainer ring
2. Remove old drop-in
3. Remove lens (or rather it falls out)
4. Replace lens within gasket (which is stuck in the head). Lens "seems" to be snugly fit into gasket
5. Drop the new drop-in, facing downwards, seems to fit fine
6. Screw retainer ring, as tight as I dare
7. Check lens, seems to move ever so slightly

Something seems to be wrong?
 

bykfixer

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Are you using new 'gaskets'? Could be the used are flattened.
Does the light work normal? Any rattle? If no keep gettin' up.

But I wonder if it would be water tight if things still have some play...
 

Dr Forinor

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That's my issue, Malkoffs are designed to be used, and I want to use my MD2 without having to worry if it will leak. But the movement of the lens (once everything is tightened up) suggests not to use it outside even if it is only very light rain.

Sent Gene an email regarding this issue and he said it appears that I have the old lens setup, so is getting Cathy to ship out the necessary part(s) to fix this problem.

Thanks for your patience with me guys, appreciate it.

Top guy is Gene!!!
 
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