Should I keep the Tail Cap all the way Tighten When Flashlight is Stored?

marcosg

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I was thinking if it is good for my flashlights and headlamps to leave the tail cap not all the way tighten when not in use.
Unscrewed a bit just enough to cover the "O" rings.
 
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BugoutBoys

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I was thinking if it is good for my flashlights and headlamps to leave the tail cap not all the way tighten when not in use.
Unscrewed a bit just enough to cover the "O" rings.
There are some manufacturers (like Surefire) that have specially designed lockout tailcaps and they encourage it for storage. I don't think it would hurt! But for some flashlights it won't do anything. The Surefire tailcaps are designed to break connection on they are loosened, so it's good for storage.
 

marcosg

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There are some manufacturers (like Surefire) that have specially designed lockout tailcaps and they encourage it for storage. I don't think it would hurt! But for some flashlights it won't do anything. The Surefire tailcaps are designed to break connection on they are loosened, so it's good for storage.

That's one of the reasons I was thinking about "break the connection". Also, it wouldn't put much stress on the contacts and the "o" ring.
 

Bdm82

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It's not just surefire or anything brand specific.

If the threads are anodized (black) while the end of the tube going into the tailcap is not (being bare metal), then a quarter twist will break the connection and provide a mechanical lockout.

It never hurts to do this.

If the light has a side electronic switch, the light constantly uses a little electicity in order to make the electronic switch work. So breaking the connection mechanically at the tailcap is a wise idea.

Lights that have mechanical rear switches break the connection as they are, so it's less mandatory. But for redundancy not a bad idea.
 

marcosg

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It's not just surefire or anything brand specific.

If the threads are anodized (black) while the end of the tube going into the tailcap is not (being bare metal), then a quarter twist will break the connection and provide a mechanical lockout.

It never hurts to do this.

If the light has a side electronic switch, the light constantly uses a little electicity in order to make the electronic switch work. So breaking the connection mechanically at the tailcap is a wise idea.

Lights that have mechanical rear switches break the connection as they are, so it's less mandatory. But for redundancy not a bad idea.

Thanks for the input
 

markr6

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If the light has a side electronic switch, the light constantly uses a little electicity in order to make the electronic switch work.
Or in Nitecore lights, uses a TON of electricity, sucking your battery dry in just weeks.
 

bykfixer

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Turn the light on. Give the tailcap/cover a few twists. If it turns off, then do that. If it stays on until it's nearly all the way off... just remove the batteries, scotch tape the combo together to ensure equal depletion exists (vs a new and partially depleted) and you're good to go.
 

SoCalTiger

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Yes, in lights with mechanical lockout, I always leave them partially unscrewed.

In lights that I don't use often, I remove the battery entirely (even if I can lock them out) so that it doesn't wear the springs over time. I don't know how quickly springs really wear with pressure over time but I do it anyway.
 

bykfixer

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Yes, in lights with mechanical lockout, I always leave them partially unscrewed.

In lights that I don't use often, I remove the battery entirely (even if I can lock them out) so that it doesn't wear the springs over time. I don't know how quickly springs really wear with pressure over time but I do it anyway.

Spring wear... GREAT POINT!!!
 

SoCalTiger

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Can't you just stretch the springs back out again if needed?

Yes but that is annoying to me. Plus, it's theoretically degrading the integrity of the spring over time. I don't know how much this all matters in reality, though or if the effects would even be measurable.
 

Lynx_Arc

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Yes but that is annoying to me. Plus, it's theoretically degrading the integrity of the spring over time. I don't know how much this all matters in reality, though or if the effects would even be measurable.

I've restretched springs on a lot of things some of them several times with no problems. The problems I've had with springs ended up being them getting corroded or overheated which changed their temper making them less springy and harder to restretch. If you have a flashlight with springs on both ends and EDC it often the bouncing battery will wear the spring more over time probably than leaving the battery there doing very little.
To put it simply there are springs in things made all the time that outlast the things they are in that are compressed all the time that never have an issue with it, in fact some car suspension springs are never replaced and are never relieved of the tension they are in since put into use.
 

markr6

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Reminds me about springs in a gun magazine. I know gun nuts always talk about not keeping magazines loaded with ammo because of this. I think that's just a myth though...but don't know for sure.

For a flashlight? Seems even more ridiculous and less critical.
 

TMedina

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Spring wear in magazines is a legitimate issue. From the US Army's point of view, they had to rotate out a bunch of old magazines for that issue.

Is it as critical a concern for flashlights? Probably not - I don't think the batteries are compressed that much under normal use. Repeated abuse from something like recoil, that might be a different conversation.
 

Ozythemandias

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Spring wear in magazines is a legitimate issue. From the US Army's point of view, they had to rotate out a bunch of old magazines for that issue.

Is it as critical a concern for flashlights? Probably not - I don't think the batteries are compressed that much under normal use. Repeated abuse from something like recoil, that might be a different conversation.

Springs wear from expanding and contracting, not from staying compressed. There's some creep but it's negligible.

Magazines are a consumable, they aren't bought or intended to last forever
 

TMedina

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I'm not the one you have to convince - hauling around tough boxes with old magazines to turn in was a pain.
 

eh4

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Turn the light on, back the tail cap off until the light turns off, then back it off another 1/8th rotation or so -O rings will still be doing their job, and the light is locked out.

You might lose some programmed settings over a long enough time period, or maybe not. I don't know if any lights use non volatile memory or not.
 

JanezFord

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Or in Nitecore lights, uses a TON of electricity, sucking your battery dry in just weeks.

I own a Nitecore P12 which rests in my cottage as backup light. I've charged it full last September and left it on the shelf only to check the battery voltage about a week ago. The battery in the flashlight is about 2 years old Olight 3400mAh with only a few cycles and the voltage dropped from 4.2V to 4.1V in about 9 months ... I think this 0.1V drop is more likely to be battery self discharge than flashlight power drain. Maybe there are other Nitecore flashlight that do drain battery in weeks but this should not be generalised for all Nitecore flashlights.

JF.
 

marcosg

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Turn the light on, back the tail cap off until the light turns off, then back it off another 1/8th rotation or so -O rings will still be doing their job, and the light is locked out.

You might lose some programmed settings over a long enough time period, or maybe not. I don't know if any lights use non volatile memory or not.


As far I can see, it probably is a good thing to leave the tail caps two turns loose.
Only drawback is, two turns loose is equal to -+ 1/32 to 1/8 gap.
By using lube on the threads and "O" rings such as Superlube or Nyogel, lint and dirt gets inside of the gap and sticks on the lube,
even if it is a very small coating of lube.
 
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