Soliciting advice for first trit install

Bronco

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I'm in on the Massdrop order for the new ReyLight Ti Lan and want to make this AA light the host for my first ever trit install. The 1.5x6 mm trits are on order and I plan on sourcing some Norland 61 in the next couple days. So, logistically speaking, the project is moving along.

My concern is with the actual installation. I've seen the instructional youtube videos where the trits are set in a slot and that all looks relatively simple. My issue is that I'd like to install these in the tailcap of the ReyLight. As the picture in the link below shows, the outer perimeter of the tailcap is comprised of three discs slightly spaced apart from one another, with holes for the trits bored through all three perpendicularly. I'd like to install a trit vial into each one of those six holes.

https://massdrop-s3.imgix.net/produ...6.jpg?auto=format&fm=jpg&fit=crop&w=473&dpr=2

I've heard the Norland 61 described as both rather viscous and watery, depending upon the source. Never having worked with the stuff before, I was hoping the veteran modders here at CPF might have some advice on how to best go about the installation. I'd obviously like the tritium vials to be as protected as possible, without cheapening the look of the light by having adhesive smeared or running all over the place. TIA.
 

HarryN

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That is a neat looking light and I can see the challenges of an installation like that.

I am not sure how steady your hands are with these adhesives, but if it were me, I would be tempted to buy an extra set of vials and experiment with the installation on something less critical first. Perhaps you can find some washers and stack them up as a trial / practice tailcap.

It isn't obvious to me that you can apply the norland to the vial and then insert it into place without smearing. I guess I would be tempted to:
- Set the light front facing down
- put one drop into the bottom (most forward) ring
- Put the vial in
- Perhaps use a tooth pick or similar in the top most (most rear ward) ring to center the vial and hold it still
- Let that cure

______

- Come back later
- Flip the flashlight on the tail cap, perhaps sitting on some wax paper
- Put a drop into the bottom most hole (using the side access) and let it cure

________

If it were me, I would probably avoid attempting to glue in the center ring / vial location, because for sure I would mess that up.

That is a guess at a procedure.
 
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gunga

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I'll provide some install details later. Maybe I'll put it in my ti lan review thread.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?428724-ReyLight-Ti-Lan-Proto-Review

Quick hint. Keep things level. The end vials only need norland on the ends. There are a few more hints and pitfalls. I'll detail them in my install instructions.

While sunlight does work, a uv light (365nm) is helpful for quick focused curing with less dripping.
 

Bronco

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That is a neat looking light and I can see the challenges of an installation like that.

I am not sure how steady your hands are with these adhesives, but if it were me, I would be tempted to buy an extra set of vials and experiment with the installation on something less critical first. Perhaps you can find some washers and stack them up as a trial / practice tailcap.

It isn't obvious to me that you can apply the norland to the vial and then insert it into place without smearing. I guess I would be tempted to:
- Set the light front facing down
- put one drop into the bottom (most forward) ring
- Put the vial in
- Perhaps use a tooth pick or similar in the top most (most rear ward) ring to center the vial and hold it still
- Let that cure

______

- Come back later
- Flip the flashlight on the tail cap, perhaps sitting on some wax paper
- Put a drop into the bottom most hole (using the side access) and let it cure

________

If it were me, I would probably avoid attempting to glue in the center ring / vial location, because for sure I would mess that up.

That is a guess at a procedure.

Thanks, Harry. I particularly like the tip about using a toothpick or something similar to hold the vial centered while the lower bit of Norland starts to set up. It will be interesting to see just how much wider the holes in the tailcap are as compared to the diameter of the trits.
 

gunga

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I have started the trit install info in my review thread. I will get to the end trits later. Note. You only need norland on the rear most rings.
 

Bronco

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I'll provide some install details later. Maybe I'll put it in my ti lan review thread.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?428724-ReyLight-Ti-Lan-Proto-Review

Quick hint. Keep things level. The end vials only need norland on the ends. There are a few more hints and pitfalls. I'll detail them in my install instructions.

While sunlight does work, a uv light (365nm) is helpful for quick focused curing with less dripping.


Thanks, gunga. Any 'light you could shed' would be most appreciated. FWIW, while the ReyLight Ti Lan immediately caught my eye in the MassDrop email, it wasn't until reading your outstanding review of the light that I was motivated to actually pull the trigger. So thanks for the effort you put into that, as well.

As to your last point, I happen to own a Streamlight Night Com torch which includes 6 UV LEDs (3 @ 390nm and 3 @ 365nm). It's doesn't appear to be as bright as some of the UV light tubes I've seen used on the youtube videos, but perhaps it could be of some use in jump starting the curing process just enough to limit excessive running.

https://www.hand-tools.com/images/brk/STR51046.jpg
 

kaichu dento

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I'll just leave this here....


Ok. Some people have asked about trit installs on this light. I'll provide some info.

I get my trits and norland 61 at mixglo.com. You will need 10x of the 1.5x6mm trits. I use a Jaxman U1 UV light (365nm) but any good UV light will do. Sunlight also works well but it's a bit tricky for the trits at the end.

I like to use a toothpick to add norland. I put some norland in a small surface (a healthy drop) and use a toothpick to transfer it to the the light. Some people use syringes or fine tipped bulb dropper. You can look up other methods.

So, for the 4 slots (3 around the head, 1 in the button), you can partially fill the slot. Make sure the surface is level because the norland is like light syrup and will run. Try to keep it in the slot. Excess can be cleaned off carefully with qtips, a rag etc. Alcohol helps but keep it away from the norland in the slot. Also watch out for lint or anything left during cleaning. Don't fill it more than 1/2 full so there is space for the vial.

Then use fine tweezers and carefully place the vial in the slot. You can adjust the position of the vial now. Be slow and gentle so you don't introduce bubbles. You may need to work on stray bubbles that show up, especially around the ends of the vial. Carefully work on them with sharp tweezers or a toothpick. You may still end up with bubbles after but we are trying to minimize this. The less you do to disturb the norland the better, but watch out for those bubbles!

Now you can add more norland to cover the vial and fill up the slot. The norland should be above the level of the slot, but just a bit. It will shrink when curing.

Now carefully move it into the sun or add your UV light. This should cure the norland. The length of time varies a lot. It can be quick with an intense uv light. Direct sunlight is good, behind glass or a cloudy day will slow it down a lot.

After curing, any excess can be carefully scraped off. A sharp toothpick is good as it won't damage the light. Try not to hit the norland in slot. You may want to leave longer to ensure it's fully cured below the surface.

I'll provide more details on the 6 end trits later.
 
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