EagleTac D25a Maintenance DIY request...

A quick request from you more knowledgeable folks. I have a 2015 EagleTac D25a as my EDC light and have been very happy with it over the past year. Lately it's been prone to "flickering" between modes when I'm running in the less than max output mode. It'll drop down to the firefly mode, to go medium, then high, then medium, then kind of all over, etc... I can usually turn it off and back on with the tail clicky and it's OK for a little bit. On mode 2 (unregulated high), it seems to be fine.

This leads me to the actual question: What maintenance should I be doing to my light to keep it in tip-top condition? The most I've ever done is wipe it down with a damp microfiber. I pull the head to change the battery and have not touched the lube (which is gross now). I have never taken the base off, so I don't know what's under there, never taken apart the head. Can anyone give me a quick primer on the appropriate items to disassemble/clean and a good general guideline for re-lubing (or not?). I have dielectric grease and superlube at my disposal that seem like they may be appropriate. Thanks for any help you can give! Here's a stock photo of the light/version for reference.

1.)Get you some q-tips and rubbing alcohol
2.)Unscrew your head and tail cap
3.)Using a q-tip soaked in alcohol, clean the threads on both ends of the body as well as in the head and tail cap until the q-tips stay white. If they are really bad you may want to use a paper towel to start with and get the big stuff out.
4.)Take another q-tip and clean the gold contact ring in the head making sure there is no film of lube on it.
5.)Find a suitable lube and reaply lightly to the threads. I am currently using permatex ceramic anit sieze compound designed for disk brakes, works well but there are better suited lubes if you look.

I have two Eagletac D25A2s and the above cleaning is all I have ever done to wituer of them and it has always cleared up any issues I have.

TacGunner pretty much sums it up.
If i'm lazy I also use alcohol pads bought from medical supplies. They do a good job of scrubbing contacts and getting old gunk off.

Another tip is to clean the ends of the springs as well.
Don't forget to periodically clean the contacts of your batteries and chargers too.

Tac Gunner said:

1.)Get you some q-tips and rubbing alcohol
2.)Unscrew your head and tail cap
3.)Using a q-tip soaked in alcohol, clean the threads on both ends of the body as well as in the head and tail cap until the q-tips stay white. If they are really bad you may want to use a paper towel to start with and get the big stuff out.
4.)Take another q-tip and clean the gold contact ring in the head making sure there is no film of lube on it.
5.)Find a suitable lube and reaply lightly to the threads. I am currently using permatex ceramic anit sieze compound designed for disk brakes, works well but there are better suited lubes if you look.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the excellent instructions. I'll do some research on lubricants and get to it!

RobertMM said:

Another tip is to clean the ends of the springs as well.
Don't forget to periodically clean the contacts of your batteries and chargers too.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the response as well. I have a small YouTube channel and now I'm thinking of making a DIY video.

Are there any parts in the tail "clicky" that are serviceable? I was under the impression it is sealed, or glued, etc... I would guess that could be another place that has gunk in it.

You'd have to take off the clip screws and screw off the end of the tailcap for that, while taking care not to damage the very thin Oring underneath.
The contacts inside may benefit from a light scrubbing to remove oxidation as well on the parts where the switch makes contact with the light's body tube.
This will also allow you to clean the tailspring better.

Edit:
You can also take the opportunity to wipe off the tailcap boot with an alcohol pad then coat it with a thin layer of Nyogel on all surfaces to prevent it from drying out and cracking in the future.

I did the maintenance today. It turns out that the tail clicky is attached to a small board in the base that has the clicky on one side and the spring on the other. No clip removal or screw removal required. I cleaned it all up and decided to use superlube to reassemble it. It seems to be working better now! Time will tell if the flickering is completely gone, but it was a painless process so I'll do it more often! Thanks again!

Glad it seems to be fixed!