is there anything i can use other then aa

to atach the lux to the heatsink .i want something i can find localy

You can use Arctic Silver epoxy if the emitter is white, green cyan, blue or royal blue (don't use AS if the emitter is amber, red or red-orange /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twakfl.gif). Check a local computer store for an overclocking kit. I hope this helps.

Dan

I have had very good luck on my last few lights using a low-melting-point alloy to solder emitters to heatsinks. I use a 52.5% bismuth, 32% lead, 15.5% tin alloy with a melting point of 203F.

If you do this, remember that all the other soldering on the heatsink should be done first, to prevent reflowing the low temperature mounting solder. (Of course, the solder can be reflowed to center the emitter if necessary, unlike thermal epoxy!)

The one hangup I ran into was when one of my older 1W emitters (popped off a Q2L Star) turned out to have an aluminum slug, and would not stick to the solder. The copper ones work fine.

I have some different eutectic alloys on the way, with melting points all the way down to 145F. I'll be experimenting with those later.

Chalo Colina

Hmm.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif why would AS be ok for some emitters and not others? Also, is AA completely non conductive? Can I fill the sandwich completely with AA? I thought aluminum still conducts? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

utomatoe,

PercaDan is right- the LS's slug is not electrically neutral. The red/orange/amber's can die if the slug contacts ground (-). The others don't seem to mind. AA is completely non-conductive- Alumina is aluminum oxide and is non-conductive. I use AA Epoxy to fill my sandwiches, though Wayne/dat2zip recommends harder/cheaper epoxys.

Larry

the others can die if the slug contacts + terminals of the batteries.