Frustrated with my EDC - looking for advice

CFP,

This is not a brand-specific complaint. I'm open to any and all ideas.

In short, I've been religiously carrying a 1x18650 EDC for about three years. First is was an EagleTac PX30 variant, and now it is a Nitecore P12GT. I use my EDC every day at my job, and there are unfortunately times it does get dropped or bumped. My current EDC has worn exterior anodizing in many places, and there are significant amounts of pocket lint on the outside surfaces.

In the same case with both lights, after about six months of use the light becomes unreliable. In other words, it doesn't immediately work right out of my pocket. I either have to fiddle with the tail-cap switch, or disassemble and reassemble the light.

This is a big problem for me, as I also rely on this light for emergency and/or defensive situations.

I'm curious to know if I'm just doing something wrong. Is there some sort of regular maintenance I'm missing? Should I be proactively replacing parts? Is this a ground corrosion problem with the anodizing? Or maybe the protection circuit in the battery (always Panasonic brands) is on the fritz due to my body heat?

Any insight would be appreciated. I would like to find an EDC I can trust and I don't have to keep replacing on an annual basis.

Thank you

How much are you willing to spend ?
HDS seems to be very reliable but $$$$$$

Less costly than HDS, would be Zebralights. A lot of people (myself included) really like them. They're known for quality, has potted electronics, and some of the recent models have multiple pogopins rather than spring, for good contact with battery.

Their 18650 lights can be picky about battery length though. VTC6 is probably the cell to get, if you go that route.

terjee said:

Less costly than HDS, would be Zebralights. A lot of people (myself included) really like them. They're known for quality, has potted electronics, and some of the recent models have multiple pogopins rather than spring, for good contact with battery.

Their 18650 lights can be picky about battery length though. VTC6 is probably the cell to get, if you go that route.

Click to expand...

I concur.

Tough, HDS as mentioned, expensive but still cheaper than 5 nitecores!!! Then malkoff, several options there to suit your requirements(cheaper than HDS).

Zebralight are cool, cant say long term right now but had a few drops........... issue free so far and also potted. Down side is the 12m warranty with ZL, buy a HDS or malkoff........its life!

You could invest in a Malkoff MD2 with a drop in of your choice and a HiLO switch.
Not cheap, but then you'd probably never have to buy another light.
This one goes everywhere with me.
P

I think the first question is are you maintaining the light at all? In other words there are variables that need to be taken into account before the lights you mentioned can be classified as unreliable. do you clean the contacts ever? are the threads getting dirty ? what type of batteries are you using ? rechargeable or primaries? is it the switch that is going funky? did the lights work after dropping them or can you say for sure that the drops directly correlate to the funky unreliable behavior?

the reason I say this any light or piece of equipment can experience problems if it isn't maintained or you are not using quality consumables (batteries)

Just buying an expensive light doesn't necessarily mean you will solve your issues. I have had Malkoffs with the high/low ring stop working because the high/low ring worked itself lose . I never checked the ring for tightness. Just an example.

It sounds like your problem may be more of one of the electronics failing with heavy use. I imagine that might be a concern with most of these high power lights in an age where lead soldering has been shunned, as the alternatives to lead don't have the same heat tolerance. Such has been a problem in many areas of electronics for years, electronics that don't have but a fraction of the heat intensity or confined build-up of flashlights. If that's the cause, relying as much as possible on lower power modes when you can might help. I don't know if there are any custom/boutique manufacturer's using lead soldering still. Most bigger corporations likely aren't due to government regulations and PR in general. A lot of emergency service workers swear by Surefire. I know I've never had a single problem with any of their lights. But they aren't the high output performers that some brands are. They also have a great warranty reputation. I've been told that if something breaks they supposedly will just send you a new one, without having to ship off the light for service. Armytek also claims a 10 year warranty and very high durability, but from everything I've read, if you're going to depend on their lights, you'll want a backup as while their durability is almost unbelievable, their QC appears to be wanting and you might have to ship the light to China for repair.

If your problem is a case of being bounced around too much, I've personally been thinking about coating the head and tails of my lights in a rubberized paint to absorb part of the impact. I've used it before to add a grip to various tools, but I can't remember what it's called at the top of my head. It comes in both brush on and spray on options.

I like to use the skinny inner tubing of bicycle road tires for a bit of shock absorption and better grip.
This might not be the best idea if you run your light as hot as it gets, but if you're holding the light and haven't completely encased the thing in rubber, it transfers heat just fine.

Deoxit for your terminals and non anodized aluminum battery tube contact surfaces, and you can use a couple wraps of electrical tape anywhere the light screws together (tube to tail cap, tube to head) if the light is failing from coming loose.
Teflon tape on the threads might be better, but electrical tape keeps grit out of the seam, makes it easy to clean the light before changing batteries.

Thanks guys.

So it sounds like my problem may be combination of poor maintenance and lower-quality lights.

I will plan to address both ASAP

Thanks

Its a strange one, have you checked the switch retaining ring in tail cap is secure. These can work loose over time/use with unscrewing/tightening. Can break or make contact intermittent........

I would first make sure tail cap is secure inside. Then with a cotton bud(ear bud type) and alcohol, clean up all threads of any gunk and old lubricant. Make sure the flashlight head and tail threads are cleaned. Before applying any nyogel, put together and try. Just saves mess if you need to take apart again........

After this if not working, remove tail cap and bridge negative battery end to the flashlight(not ano, bare metal part at end of body). Something like a knife, see if light comes on. If it does, possible tail cap, if not then looking at a driver fault/issue.

I realize this probably isn't the solution you're looking for, but I often carry three different AAA/10440 lights on me, which aren't any bulkier than a 18650 size light. These are lights like an Olight i3S EOS aluminum, Ultratec K18 aluminum, Astrolux copper, Fenix LD01 stainless, Solarforce X3 stainless, Lumintop brass or copper, Maratac stainless, MBI HF-R 10440 (aluminum, copper, or Ti model), 4Sevens Revo Ti, Fenix E99 Ti, Thrunite TiS 10440/AAA, etc. The prices for these vary, especially for the last three which are titanium, but the aluminum and stainless lights are usually quite reasonably priced.

Of course there are other higher end lights like the Peak and TnC AAA and 10440 lights, and the Tain Ottavino, which are very well made and sturdy too, but are a lot more expensive. But they're a possibility too and are just about indestructible and I like them as well.

If one doesn't work (which is extremely rare), I switch to the second light. If that doesn't work, I have a third--which has never happened yet. Or if I drop one and it breaks, again, I have two more. With many of these putting out close to 180 lumens on high these days with good throw, a little AAA size light is usually plenty bright enough for me. Of course there's the issue of run time with such a small battery, but then I have three batteries and three lights, plus usually a couple of extra batteries with me. With Sanyo Eneloop Pro XX NiMH batteries I'm in pretty good shape.

Again, I realize this is probably not the solution/configuration you're looking for, but it does have the advantage of being practically foolproof, and the cost is usually no more than what you'd pay for one Zebra Light.

gunfighter said:

Thanks guys.

So it sounds like my problem may be combination of poor maintenance and lower-quality lights.

I will plan to address both ASAP

Thanks

Click to expand...

Here are some related thoughts that I posted a while back ...

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...able-torches&p=4439965&viewfull=1#post4439965

For "mission critical" equipment, it may be worth thinking about potential points of failure, then trying to maximize reliability at those points.

For example, switches can commonly fail, but a simple twist switch is much more reliable than a mechanical click switch.

Batteries can fail, and the more cells in a system, the greater the chance of a failure. Protection circuit(s) add additional potential failure points.

Electronic components are subject to jarring and shock, which is lessened by potting.

And, of course, the "two is one, one is none" concept regarding adequate functional backup ...

I dont think you need a new light. Sounds like you need to clean the old ones, and make sure the retaining ring for the switch is tight. Yes you can buy a expesive malkoff or hds, but they will stop working too if you dont clean them once in a while

another possibility:
dropping the light can compress the spring, so after that it does not make as firm a contact. Result, erratic "switch" behavior, as reported.
Solution, stretch the spring back out , and or replace with new

what if
all those lights that stopped working, just needed new springs?

more remote possibility...
exposing an unpotted light to weapon recoil will potentially break solder joints. Result, erratic "switch" behavior. Solution, upgrade to a potted light..

For 18650 options, as others mention, a Zebra (3oz) (which uses unprotected cells, the light has built in protection), Surefire (6.2oz), Malkoff (no weight listed), and also Elzetta (no weight listed) are potted. The Zebra will be the closest in size and weight to the 4.2oz ET you have been carrying. But Zebras don't have tactical tail switches.

about switches
It is possible you would benefit from a higher quality switch than what is on the ET you have been using.. Of the brands mentioned, I don't know which one has the most durable switch.

about maintenance
I don't think you did anything wrong
my money is on a crushed spring, from dropping the light
let us know

There are two lights I know that are sealed and potted HDS and Zebralight. HDS has life warranty, Zebralight has one year warranty after which it does not matter what issue it has, only $15 to fix. HDS under $300 and Zebralight under $100. Take your pick.

marinemaster said:

There are two lights I know that are sealed and potted HDS and Zebralight. HDS has life warranty, Zebralight has one year warranty after which it does not matter what issue it has, only $15 to fix. HDS under $300 and Zebralight under $100. Take your pick.

Click to expand...

Armyteks are supposed to be potted too. 10 year warranty. Submersible down to 50 meters. 30 meter impact resistance.

Chad Varnadore said:

Armyteks are supposed to be potted too. 10 year warranty. Submersible down to 50 meters. 30 meter impact resistance.

Click to expand...

Based on their claims: aren't they meant to be made in Canada?

All I am saying is that what you CAN say, DOESN'T necessarily mean it has to be TRUE.

.. Short of quoting what I have said elsewhere, all I can say is that I wouldn't go near another AT light and I know for a fact I am not alone ..

Get a Malkoff 18650 Hound Dog and you're set for life, provided that you maintain it properly.

Elzetta is the way to go