Zebralight H600/H604/H600F MKIV headlamp

TCY

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Messages
801
Pre-order now available. I was told by ZL staff that the H600Fd/c variant would not be available for another few month, but apparently they've decided to hit us with a little Halloween surprise.. ZL or trick:devil:
 

MX421

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
656
Location
Texas
I saw that yesterday and was pretty hyped about having a Hi-CRI flooder,. Their specs are the same for both the H604c & H604d though (that can't be right) and they don't have the runtimes yet. I wonder how bright the H604c is, that'd be the one I'd want.
 

TCY

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Messages
801
ZL labels the H604c to have a maximum brightness of 1616 lumens. Don't know about runtimes yet but based on ZL's track record I expect it to be more than solid.

Some further intel:
H52/H53's pocket clip is compatible.
MKIV housing does not have any visual updates. A few internal modifications, not our concern.
"A hint of green is possible in a 3-step 5000K "Fd" light, but very rare in a 3-step 4000K "Fc" light."
 

twistedraven

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 22, 2014
Messages
1,810
It's a little less likely for a 3-step 4000k light to have green, but still very likely. Take a look at Cree's easywhite binning chart for the 50.2.

NSKmVWh.png



As you can see, the 3-step binning process for a 5000k light means that you are pretty much guaranteed to get a light with a slight green-tint bias. A 4000k 3-step binning process means you will have a rare chance of getting a light with a slight magenta bias.

However, you can slap on a green-minus filter to shed some of that green off the light's spectral output and coincidentally raise the CRI and R9 reproduction of the light. It's the same trick CREE uses for their high CRI home LED bulbs. I'm pretty sure my old H600FD MK3 leans on the green side, but when I slap on a pink filter or pink highlighter, it becomes an incredible tinted light.

I've pre-ordered three H600FC MK4s btw, and am only keeping one.
 

dizpark

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
2
My first post here!

I contacted Zebralight specifically about differences between H600w MkIII and Mk IV. This is what they said: The Mk IV version is slightly brighter at max output, and comes with the new User Interface that allows the user to program 6 modes to any brightness levels he/she wants. Runtimes and battery protection will be exactly the same.

I have never used H600W MK III, (but was about to buy one), so I really do not know if the new user interface is a big deal.
 

TCY

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Messages
801
Thanks, I'm aware how Cree binning works. For 4000K 3-step to be noticeably green or even disturbingly green, the tint has to land on the rear end of 5B4 and 5C1 which is very unlikely, hence ZL's claim of 4000K only having a very rare chance of being green. 5000K is basically a lost cause... however my SC600Fd Plus only has a very light hint of lemon and that's acceptable for me. ZL staff told me to leave a note with the order asking for a good tinted sample and they'll "try our best", I trust them on their tint picking ability so I only ordered one H600Fc. Tint lottery time:thumbsup:
FIS3PK6.jpg
 

twistedraven

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 22, 2014
Messages
1,810
I consider anything above the BBL to be green-biased and anything below to be magenta biased. It is true that the lower you go in CCT, the more yellow to orange the green bias becomes, and spectral charts from emitters will confirm that as well. It still isn't a good look to me though, however.

I'm going to pick the least greenish H600FC MK4 and then put a filter on it from there.
 

TCY

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Messages
801
You might get one with no green at all, happened with my H53Fc. Just pleasant creamy yellow:twothumbs
 

Tachead

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 3, 2015
Messages
3,872
Location
Northwestern Ontario, Canada
It's a little less likely for a 3-step 4000k light to have green, but still very likely. Take a look at Cree's easywhite binning chart for the 50.2.

NSKmVWh.png



As you can see, the 3-step binning process for a 5000k light means that you are pretty much guaranteed to get a light with a slight green-tint bias. A 4000k 3-step binning process means you will have a rare chance of getting a light with a slight magenta bias.

However, you can slap on a green-minus filter to shed some of that green off the light's spectral output and coincidentally raise the CRI and R9 reproduction of the light. It's the same trick CREE uses for their high CRI home LED bulbs. I'm pretty sure my old H600FD MK3 leans on the green side, but when I slap on a pink filter or pink highlighter, it becomes an incredible tinted light.

I've pre-ordered three H600FC MK4s btw, and am only keeping one.

That's the kind of thing that could likely make ZL drop their generous return policy one day.
 
Last edited:

TCY

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Messages
801
My first post here!

I contacted Zebralight specifically about differences between H600w MkIII and Mk IV. This is what they said: The Mk IV version is slightly brighter at max output, and comes with the new User Interface that allows the user to program 6 modes to any brightness levels he/she wants. Runtimes and battery protection will be exactly the same.

I have never used H600W MK III, (but was about to buy one), so I really do not know if the new user interface is a big deal.

Welcome to CPF!

Bottom line: You might not need it and find the stock UI perfect for you applications, but at least it's nice to have it on board. Lots of fellow CPFers love the new programmable UI, me included. It basically tailors the UI to exactly how you want it to be.

About runtime and output: ZL is mostly just using more efficient drivers in their MKIV lights on the XHP35 variants. For the high CRI d/c flavours, output almost doubled and I expect there would be a slight increase in runtime as the old XM-L2 easywhite is not exactly energy efficient compared to the MKIV's XHP50.2.
 

Tachead

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 3, 2015
Messages
3,872
Location
Northwestern Ontario, Canada
No I'll be selling the other two here at CPF.
Oh ok, good idea. I really wish ZL would just offer a premium tint upgrade. I would gladly pay an added charge for a hand picked light with a tint right on the BBL. I bet some others including yourself would too. Hopefully they will consider it one day.
 

TCY

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Messages
801
I would pay an extra $20 or even $30 for a ZL with 1-step LED. Tint variation of 1 step LED is so finite that it cannot be detected by naked eye. Too bad no one is doing it.
 

MX421

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
656
Location
Texas
ZL labels the H604c to have a maximum brightness of 1616 lumens. Don't know about runtimes yet but based on ZL's track record I expect it to be more than solid.

I'd believe it if both the H604c&d didn't have the same brightness specs. Since they also don't have the runtimes, i'd conservatively suspect they put the H604d specs in and duplicated them and the H604c would run a small percentage less than that due to the lower tint levels.
 

TCY

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Messages
801
I'd believe it if both the H604c&d didn't have the same brightness specs. Since they also don't have the runtimes, i'd conservatively suspect they put the H604d specs in and duplicated them and the H604c would run a small percentage less than that due to the lower tint levels.

Yes, based on ZL's history the c version should have ~10% less output than its d equivalent, but given the Fd/c's 1568 lumens output the 604d/c 1616 lumens is also believable for me. Let's see how ZL adjusts that spread sheet in the near future.:sssh:
 

MX421

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
656
Location
Texas
Yes, based on ZL's history the c version should have ~10% less output than its d equivalent, but given the Fd/c's 1568 lumens output the 604d/c 1616 lumens is also believable for me. Let's see how ZL adjusts that spread sheet in the near future.:sssh:

Yeah i noticed the same lumens count on the Fc/d series as well (and the run times again missing) and thought the same thing there (even though the lumen level is lower i presume through loss via the frosted lens). I personally am not interested in the frosted lens light after that post where someone had multiple frosted Zebra lens crack on him. Each their own though. Looking forward to the H604c and the H600w Mk IV (though the latter can wait for me)
 

TCY

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Messages
801
Yeah i noticed the same lumens count on the Fc/d series as well (and the run times again missing) and thought the same thing there (even though the lumen level is lower i presume through loss via the frosted lens). I personally am not interested in the frosted lens light after that post where someone had multiple frosted Zebra lens crack on him. Each their own though. Looking forward to the H604c and the H600w Mk IV (though the latter can wait for me)

IIRC the cracked lens problem was with a certain batch of lens supplied by Corning? After that thread no one's frosted lens cracked anyway. My H53Fc and SC600Fd III Plus are doing well without a single problem. I'm a flood guy so I got the H600Fc MKIV this time.
 

Tachead

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 3, 2015
Messages
3,872
Location
Northwestern Ontario, Canada
Yeah i noticed the same lumens count on the Fc/d series as well (and the run times again missing) and thought the same thing there (even though the lumen level is lower i presume through loss via the frosted lens). I personally am not interested in the frosted lens light after that post where someone had multiple frosted Zebra lens crack on him. Each their own though. Looking forward to the H604c and the H600w Mk IV (though the latter can wait for me)

IIRC the cracked lens problem was with a certain batch of lens supplied by Corning? After that thread no one's frosted lens cracked anyway. My H53Fc and SC600Fd III Plus are doing well without a single problem. I'm a flood guy so I got the H600Fc MKIV this time.

No problems on my frosted lens lights either(H600Fd&c MKIII) and I have been using them for about 2 years doing everything from backcountry camping and rock climbing to mechanics and carpentry(I do take care of my stuff though and don't abuse it). As said, I believe they just had an issue with a batch of the old type of glass they used to use. The newest frosted lenses(late 2015+) are Corning Gorilla Glass 3(the same glass used for the screens on many cell phones) which is one of the strongest and most scratch resistant varieties available. Plus, ZL will replace any lens if you do happen to break one. In my opinion, the frosted lens ZL headlamp models offer the best beam type for general use by far. You will be missing out if you don't try one imo MX421.
 
Last edited:

MX421

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
656
Location
Texas
No problems on my frosted lens lights either(H600Fd&c MKIII) and I have been using them for about 2 years doing everything from backcountry camping and rock climbing to mechanics and carpentry(I do take care of my stuff though and don't abuse it). As said, I believe they just had an issue with a batch of the old type of glass they used to use. The newest frosted lenses(late 2015+) are Corning Gorilla Glass 3(the same glass used for the screens on many cell phones) which is one of the strongest and most scratch resistant varieties available. Plus, ZL will replace any lens if you do happen to break one. In my opinion, the frosted lens ZL headlamp models offer the best beam type for general use by far. You will be missing out if you don't try one imo MX421.

I have a H602w for floody stuff, but i do see the merits of the semi-floody 'F' lens, thats what my only working Armytek Wizard has essentially and its okay to have the concentration of light in the middle with the smooth transition to the spill. Still, cracked lens aside, if i want flood, my preference so far is the "mule" H602w (or now the H604c it appears), otherwise, I'd get a H600 and put a diffuser on the lens (the scotch tape thing works pretty well) for more focussed "flood" lighting. That way i have two different beam profiles with one light.
 
Last edited:

Tachead

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 3, 2015
Messages
3,872
Location
Northwestern Ontario, Canada
I have a H602w for floody stuff, but i do see the merits of the semi-floody 'F' lens, thats what my only working Armytek Wizard has essentially and its okay to have the concentration of light in the middle with the smooth transition to the spill. Still, cracked lens aside, if i want flood, my preference so far is the "mule" H602w (or now the H604c it appears), otherwise, I'd get a H600 and put a diffuser on the lens (the scotch tape thing works pretty well) for more focussed lighting. That way i have two different beam profiles with one light.

Just to keep ZL's terminology straight: the ZL mule models(ie:H604) are called "Flood", the "F" models are called "Floody", and the normal H models are called "Spot/Spill".

I have an Armytek too but, its beam is a bit different then the ZL floody models. It has a tighter beam(likely due to the more recessed optic) that is more even with no hotspot. The ZL Floody models have a broader beam(wider) with more of a highly diffused hotspot that blends into the spill. They tend to throw a bit further then the AT's and offer a wider more useful spill imo.

Personally, I find the ZL Flood models have the least useful beam profile overall of the four(3xZL/1xAT) and are only really suited to up close tasks like reading, dishes, in tent chores etc(although they excel at these tasks).

The Spot/Spill models are ok but, I find they are not good for up close tasks due to the tight hotspot and narrower overall beam profile and give a bit of a bouncing ball effect when walking, running, hiking.

I have tried the diffuser tape trick but, find it annoying and not very practical to switch back and forth out in the field. I prefer to just pick the right light for the task(most of the time this is Floody for me).

What I find works great now for most uses is a combination of a ZL Floody and a throwy flashlight in case I need to see something real far away(fairly rare as the H600F's have a fair amount of throw on H1). Then for reading or general in the tent tasks, I like the Flood models best(although the Floody models still work pretty well for these tasks). I just ordered a H502c L2 as I find the 18650 models have more capacity/output then needed and are too bulky for these up close tasks.

Everyone uses their lights for different things though and this is highly subjective of course. I just figured I would post my experience with these headlamps in case it is helpful:thumbsup:.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Top