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Sold/Expired WANTED: Any working ARC LS board...

milkyspit

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 21, 2002
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New Jersey
I'm in the middle of replacing the emitter on a First Run ARC LS (the one with the bezel that unscrews) for a friend of a friend. Got the head unscrewed with no damage at all to the anodizing... then sheared one of the surface mount components while removing the board. DOH! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

The bottom line here is that I need a replacement circuit board. It doesn't have to be a first run board... in fact, I'd prefer one of the later boards! Emitter doesn't matter and doesn't even need to be there, as I'll be replacing the emitter with the one I've got anyway.

If you've got one and can help, please PM me with your price. I'll go with the most reasonable offer on a working board.

Thank you folks! Thank you! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif

image-cpf-arc-ls-first-run-board-broken-1.jpg


image-cpf-arc-ls-first-run-board-broken-2.jpg
 

red_robby

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 26, 2003
Messages
640
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TORONTO
is your board not repairable ?
I had mine done by LED ASAP, he boosted the circuit as well.
why not go that way ?
 

milkyspit

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The entire board is covered with black epoxy. I can't even tell what the sheared component was, and even if I repaired that, I'd have to literally dig the emitter out of all the epoxy it's potted in. Very ugly, very time consuming. If someone can provide me with an affordable board, I'd just as soon cut my losses on this one.

Unless somebody wants to take on the challenge of wrestling with this one, black epoxy and all?
 

wasabe64

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Abducted to The Granite Planet
Scott, nice camera work.

It looks like you just lost a single SMT component there. I don't see any ripped tracks, did you tear up the solder pad?

I could be totally wrong, but it looks very repairable.
 

milkyspit

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Sep 21, 2002
Messages
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Wasabe64, thanks for the compliment. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif One problem is that I don't know which component was lost! I really have no idea what that thing was, and it's hard to replace something that you can't even identify. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

I agree that I could repair the damage, so long as I can identify the damaged part. But after the repair I'd still need to replace the emitter, which was the whole point of the project. And digging through that dark epoxy is gonna be an absolute nightmare, plus very possibly damage something else, like (gasp!) the solder pads or traces themselves. Then I'll have invested all kinds of time and still be up a creek! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif

I'm thinking it would be FAR easier to pop a new board in there, if I can get one.
 

wasabe64

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Lapsing into caveman mode...

Removing the old luxeon without damaging the neighbouring components is a snap (so long as you are willing to sacrifice it that nasty old low dome Luxeon /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/evilgrin07.gif).

Neocortex reasserts itself...

As for the separated component, a good multimeter will be able to identify a resistor or diode (by the profile, it looks more like a ferrite or capacitor). Besides, it'll give you something to do while you wait for a replacement to arrive by mail. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Oh, and just so I don't totally hijack the thread:

PM sent!
 

Ratus

Newly Enlightened
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Jan 1, 2003
Messages
138
Location
Miami,FL
Hey milky,

How about a board from the samich shop?

I think Dat2Zip did the board for first Arc LS, and I remember that some did a mod recently with a "badboy"; said it fit like a glove.

I'll look it up for you. back in a bit
 

hideo

Enlightened
Joined
May 2, 2003
Messages
435
hmmm... I asked about getting the epoxy goo off a rev1 once and Klaus (I think) said heat would do it ...

I figgered that discretion was the better part of valor and decided to leave the greenish stock low dome intact

the human eye is more sensitive to it anyway, right /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

so, Wasabe, two questions ... first, is your moniker derived from the native word for green Japanese horseradish?

second--you say getting the emitter off is a "snap"--could you go into detail as I have a suspected flex failure on my rev1 and if I can kank it open, I'd like to have at the emitter /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif

good luck with the board, spit,

hideo
 

wasabe64

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Nov 12, 2003
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Abducted to The Granite Planet
[ QUOTE ]
hideo said:
is your moniker derived from the native word for green Japanese horseradish?


[/ QUOTE ]

Yes it is. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif The explanation to my nickname is posted on another thread.

[ QUOTE ]
hideo said:
second--you say getting the emitter off is a "snap"--could you go into detail as I have a suspected flex failure on my rev1 and if I can kank it open, I'd like to have at the emitter /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif

good luck with the board, spit,

hideo

[/ QUOTE ]
Hideo,

I'll PM you the details, let's not clutter the B/S/T forum with mod info. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
 

Sigman

* The Arctic Moderator *
Joined
Sep 25, 2002
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[ QUOTE ]
wasabe64 said:I'll PM you the details, let's not clutter the B/S/T forum with mod info. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
--------------------
Could I get you to PM me with those details also? Thanks!!
 

milkyspit

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Sep 21, 2002
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Wasabe, I got your PM. Will be in touch soon. But in the meantime, could you PM me those "snap" emitter removal details also? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif
 

d'mo

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May 9, 2002
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937
Location
Rochester, NY
Scott,

The part popped off is an OnSemi Diode part number MBR0520LT1. The cathode goes towards the capacitor.

If you want to remove the epoxy, gently heat the component side. Once the epoxy is warm, it can be popped off with a pick. Depending on how precise the heat can be applied, it might warp the LED a bit, but if you're going to replace it anyway, it's not a big deal.

If you want a replacement diode or want me to do the mod for you, PM me.
 
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