Broken LED lights.

All died for no reason. Well the iTP 1XAAA has been beaten on but the rest rarely used.



Cleaned them all with alcohol. Did the body bypass and only the old school P1 has a working head.





iTP was bought out by Olight so it's no surprise the heads are physically nearly the same as the 4/7s.



The 4/7s head fits the iTP body just fine and works.





I have no clue what is wrong with the iTP heads or P1 body. The tail cap on the old school P1 is frozen on. I think those come off. I have another P1 body so it's no big deal though curious why it's responsible for the failure.

That is odd but it's interesting to hear how compatible the Preons and iTP's are.
The Preon tail does come off; more likely to me that it's a tailcap issue rather than a defect in the body but it's hard to imagine what the issue could be.

With the P1 head working independently........that is at least good news. That one should be able to be fixed. It's a continuity issue as you're aware. Is there by chance a foam washer at the positive end of the battery at the head? I know that the first Preon P0's had an issue with the foam at the positive side of the battery and Eneloop batteries would not make very good connection due to the fatter button top or something associated with clearance. It was hit and miss. Not sure how these P1's are configured. I think they have a spring on the tail end of the battery and so not much that can go wrong as far as interrupting the continuity at the negative end of the battery. And you did clean the threads which would be one of the first things to do. Also clean up where the body tube makes contact with the head. If there is a foam washer, try a different type of AA battery such as an alkaline. (not recommending alkaline batteries .......just a process of eliminating the source of the problem)

Same thing here with iTP A3 EOS and iTP A1 EOS... sad..

hiuintahs said:

With the P1 head working independently........that is at least good news. That one should be able to be fixed. It's a continuity issue as you're aware. Is there by chance a foam washer at the positive end of the battery at the head? I know that the first Preon P0's had an issue with the foam at the positive side of the battery and Eneloop batteries would not make very good connection due to the fatter button top or something associated with clearance. It was hit and miss. Not sure how these P1's are configured. I think they have a spring on the tail end of the battery and so not much that can go wrong as far as interrupting the continuity at the negative end of the battery. And you did clean the threads which would be one of the first things to do. Also clean up where the body tube makes contact with the head. If there is a foam washer, try a different type of AA battery such as an alkaline. (not recommending alkaline batteries .......just a process of eliminating the source of the problem)

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Yup first thing was cleaning etc etc. No foam and as always tried multiple batteries. The tail should come off but this one is stuck. Even marked it up trying with pliers. Going to try WD40. I put a P1 head on a green P2 body so actually have another P1 body but I can't see any reason why the electrical connection is not complete. I have a new P2 gotten on black Friday but it came DOA but can make it temporarily work. The tail clicky keeps sliding down the tube and the driver/reflector wasn't screwed all the way down so the window floats on the bezel. It's like the manufacturing process wasn't finished. I was a little pissed as got it on Black Friday, not on their clearance. So at the time I didn't know the company was.... well whatever the heck is going on. Email wasn't responded to so basically ate the 25 bucks unless I can figure out what to do. Then again did get some good deals so maybe it equalizes out. Nope.. still pissed... LOL! I think the driver can be screwed down someway. Maybe those two little holes are for that as griping points. Not sure. As for the Clicky not sure but after seeing this slide down not sure about the entire design compared to a screw on clicky. Clearly this one failed right out of the box.

druidmars said:

Same thing here with iTP A3 EOS and iTP A1 EOS... sad..

Click to expand...

First thing. Eddie for the win... Yea it sucks. The 1XAA was hardly ever used and never dropped. Just died. I think that's the reality of most LED light failures. They just go for no discernible reason. I am also not sure if someone buying one expensive light has any real advantage (within reason) in terms of having a working light actually on hand if needed compared to someone buying a card full of twelve 99 cent cheap LED shower head lights. There is strength in numbers. Sure they suck in terms of output, tint etc etc but for around the house light is light. I gave a friend a 4/7 Turbo for his job at UPS. He lost it within a week but around the same time noticed a card full of those cheap LED lights in his house. Years later despite a nasty divorce, multiple moves, and two young daughters who lose everything possible somehow... someway a single 99 cent shower head made it and was in the kitchen draw. I know some people will not get the context right and be all pissy about what I am saying but don't care. Then again for 10 years now never a problem with a Malkoff M61/M31 but that's just me.