Stuck clicky switch - help ?

Not sure where the best place to post this is so I willstart here.
Recently received a new DOA DQG (sorry for all the acronyms).Fight with vendor ongoing but here is the problem.
When I received the item, the tail clicky switch was stuckin the down position. I didn't want to mess with it too much in case I neededto return it. I contacted both the vendor and manufacturer who were of littlehelp taking several days to a week to reply.
Seeing as I may get stuck with it, I was wondering if Icould attempt to fix it.
I put some oil on the top of the switch and got it to popup. It seemed to work for a while and then got stuck in the down positionagain. I repeated the previous step and got it back where it should be but nowthe light only comes on sporadically and the switch will also still sticksperiodically.
Do these clicky mechanisms just come out so I can see it? Ifso, how?
I also tried to get them to send me just the bottom part butit appears no deal.
The light is the Slim AA/ 1/2AA in titanium.
I may just toss it in the garbage.
Thanks in advance for any comments.

Re: Help with problem

Vemice said:

Not sure where the best place to post this is so I will start here....

Click to expand...

Best to keep vendor issues separate from troubleshooting / repair discussion ... if you want to focus on the latter, this thread is fine here.

Vemice said:

.... here is the problem. When I received the item, the tail clicky switch was stuck in the down position.... I put some oil on the top of the switch and got it to pop up. It seemed to work for a while and then got stuck in the down position again. I repeated the previous step and got it back where it should be but now the light only comes on sporadically and the switch will also still sticks periodically. Do these clicky mechanisms just come out so I can see it? If so, how? ....

Click to expand...

Your title was also edited to something a bit more helpful ...

Sorry and thanks.
Did not want advice on vendor problem.

I believe DQG's are known to have switch issues. I would send it back for a refund and go with a more reliable brand with better customer service. If the vendor is being difficult and won't respond to you then file a PayPal claim. That usually gets them moving fairly quickly and if not gets you a refund.

Tachead said:

.... I would send it back for a refund and go with a more reliable brand with better customer service. If the vendor is being difficult and won't respond to you then file a PayPal claim. That usually gets them moving fairly quickly and if not gets you a refund.

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Yeah, this isn't the venue for discussing vendor issues ... as noted recently :ironic:

archimedes said:

Yeah, this isn't the venue for discussing vendor issues ... as noted recently :ironic:

Click to expand...

I replied to his question after reading his OP. I did not read the whole thread yet.

As for vendor issues, I was simply pointing out that a PayPal dispute usually will quickly resolve the issue. It was part of his original post so, I mentioned it. I was just trying to be helpful.

Thanks to all for the posts. As mentioned, don't want to get into the mess. It has been a long road and have pretty much given up. I want to attempt to fix it or throw it out. Cost of doing business. Trying to figure out how to take it apart without destroying it.

Can you post close-up photos of the (inside and outside of the) tailcap and switch ?

archimedes said:

Can you post close-up photos of the (inside and outside of the) tailcap and switch ?

Click to expand...

It is a little bit difficult to tell in those photos, but is the switch metal on metal ?

And is it completely potted in place ?

Could be your lube has gotten onto somewhere that makes electrical contact and is now interupting flow. Could be the switch parts that were hanging up finally broke.

It's broken... so why not take it to your DIY flashlight laboratory normally disguised as the dining room/kitchen table and give it the business to see how it was assembled.

It's already broken, wut-thuh-heck, right?

archimedes said:

It is a little bit difficult to tell in those photos, but is the switch metal on metal ?

And is it completely potted in place ?

Click to expand...

Yes. All metal (titanium/steel).
Don't know what potted means.

Vemice said:

Don't know what potted means.

Click to expand...

wikipedia said:

In electronics, potting is a process of filling a complete electronic assembly with a solid or gelatinous compound for resistance to shock and vibration, and for exclusion of moisture and corrosive agents.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potting_(electronics)

Click to expand...

google images

potting a driver board

DGQ was once a desired brand, with compelling lights. DQG hasn't changed, but rather, there are more manufacturers to choose from, and many have nearly perfected their manufacturing. Don't throw it away, probably someone wants that light.

Though the Ti fans will disagree, IMO, Ti is a poor choice of material for a flashlight of that size due to its poor heat properties, and there's no need for a small light to be stingy with weight. Mass is actually an advantage to a small light. Ti is, however, very strong.

I do not know this from personal experience, but Ti is notoriously gritty between parts, such as threads, if both connecting and moving parts are Ti. But if the switch cap is stainless steel, and the body is Ti, there could be galling. Galling most commonly occurs between mating fasteners of materials which self-generate a corrosion-resistant oxide surface layer, such as stainless steel, titanium, aluminum and some other alloys. DQG is not as popular as it used to be, so inventory sits around, and perhaps galling is a valid and reasonable diagnosis.

If the cap can be removed (no idea how) and the naked switch no longer sticks, maybe that indicates it is the switch cap that cannot clear the tight fit, due to galling either on the stainless and/or Ti parts. Once switch cap is removed, maybe it is possible to use something abrasive to mitigate the galling, but I wouldn't know what abrasive would have a corrective effect on Ti or stainless, nor how to work with something so small. Someone here at CPF with materials knowledge and shop skills might have some suggestions.

Night.hoodie, thank you for the info. Very informative. My next step will be to try oiling the switch in both up and down positions. It still gets hung up after several clicks. Final try will be pulling the switch out to see if the galling theory may be it. Just gotta figure out how to get it out without destroying it.

If you get it apart, you should take a dremel with a polishing tip and put some rubbing compound on it. Polish the hole in the tailcap and the button. Atleast it will make the button travel alot smoother.
Titanium is gritty, well most of the cheap ti lights anyway. The really expensive custom ones usually got smooth threads, and smooth clickies. The cheap ones needs a lot of buffing to feel good and not stick.

Yes, metal-on-metal may well be a big part of your problem.

I would caution you about "over-oiling" however. Depending on what you are using, you could be causing other potential issues ....

Thanks to all for input. After lub job yesterday, it worked perfectly for the day. This morning lite once then back to the problem.
Something going on in the tail clicky. Don't want to take it apart as afraid I will destroy it. Think I will try to sell for parts or modding. Too bad; thought it was a keeper.