Looking for outdoor floodlight recommendations.

Wrecked

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I just purchased a house surrounded by 13 acres of woods (about 1.5 acres is grass). I have 3 dogs that play in the yard. We also have a coyote problem and I don't want them bothering my dogs. I know coyotes don't like bright lights so I'd like to replace my really old flood lights with something much brighter to light up the backyard. Any recommendations? I've done a little research but not found a lot except some lights on Amazon that may or may not be that good...

Thanks for any help.
 

Chris_1

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Hi wrecked. I faced the similar problem since I built my house near the forest. My Labradors couldn't even roam freely because of the fear of Coyotes. Fortunately, my colleague who happened to have a good expertise in LED lights, suggested me to buy outdoor floodlights. I started researching about floodlight suppliers on the Internet and came across SeniorLED on Quora. The brand is pretty popular among global LED lighting buyers and recommended for its product quality and top-notch after-sales service. After visiting their website & browsing CE outdoor LED lighting catalog, I opted for powerful 150-watt floodlights. I installed them near my lawn and garage. The illumination is way brighter than fluorescent bulbs, which is a great thing. The product quality is par-excellence. The technical specification & power-saving features are amazing. Other goodies like AIG insurance, 5 yr brand warranty, and discounts are cherries on the top. Now, the coyote problem is gone. They don't roam around my house anymore. At last, I'd suggest installing floodlights since vacating the house is not an option. You can get in touch with the company at *email address removed* Hope this helps.
 
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DIWdiver

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Wrecked, that post looks like a shill (someone posting good things about a product in return for some benefit). I wouldn't believe a word of it. Notice his number of posts: 1.

That said, I suspect that LED lighting may be the way to go for you, but I wouldn't say it's a foregone conclusion. LEDs are currently (and will probably continue to be for some time, if not forever) the most efficient light source that's commercially available. For standard household light bulbs, costs have come down to where there can be no argument against LEDs being the cheapest bulbs to own.

But in specialty bulbs, we aren't necessarily there yet. For lighting your yard, it's possible that HID or similar tech is still the cheapest to install today and own for the next 5-10 years.

Another thing to consider is that the lifetime of LED lights is different than the lifetime of HID, Halogen, or normal incancescent lights. The typical failure mode of LEDs is that the output drops below acceptable levels. With the others, output is relatively constant until sudden failure. Note that cheap LEDs, like many of those on Amazon, will have rather rapid decline in output, while better products will have much slower decline.
 

idleprocess

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But in specialty bulbs, we aren't necessarily there yet. For lighting your yard, it's possible that HID or similar tech is still the cheapest to install today and own for the next 5-10 years.

Another thing to consider is that the lifetime of LED lights is different than the lifetime of HID, Halogen, or normal incancescent lights. The typical failure mode of LEDs is that the output drops below acceptable levels. With the others, output is relatively constant until sudden failure. Note that cheap LEDs, like many of those on Amazon, will have rather rapid decline in output, while better products will have much slower decline.
Eh, I think it depends on what kind of fixture will be selected for this application. If the approach is that of using LED bulbs then yes, odds are they'll be a bit troublesome since LED bulbs outside of typical Edison socket sizes are somewhat niche items - particularly when one gets into the "corn cob" bulbs intended to slot into mogul bases. If the the choice is to use purpose-build LED fixtures then the logic changes since those can be built around LED's need for heat removal for the sake of the LEDs / power electronics and perform well for many years with less power consumption than other technologies.

The OP mentions "old flood lights" suggesting something like PAR38 outdoor floodlamps. I used to have just such a fixture over my driveway and it was excellent at producing heat and attracting swarms of bugs - any light it produced was almost accidental. My choice was to replace it with a homebrew lighting system some 9 years ago that's still running strong, but today I might simply opt for some of the outdoor-rated LED bulbs on the market. Philips seems to have some decent options in this area. GE as well, however I'm not sure if they have as solid a hand in the design, production, and quality assurance of products bearing their brand as Philips.

It's worth noting that while LED can pretty easily leapfrog outdoor halogen floodlamp performance, it may not be the leap that the OP is looking for.
 

degarb

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42084148610_310450558d.jpg


{Not affiliated with Energizer in any way.}
 

TechGuru

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I'm not sold on LED residential outdoor lighting yet (and I hate any lighting over 4300K), I still use 500 watt halogen quartz lights. Don't really mind the electrical usage since I only turn them on when letting my dog out for 10 min or less. 11,000 lumens each I believe.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithoni...loodlight-OFL-300-500Q-120-LP-BZ-M6/100652913

If you're needing something to leave on all night I'd get some 70 watt or 100 watt metal-halide floods.
 
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degarb

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I'm not sold on LED residential outdoor lighting yet (and I hate any lighting over 4300K), I still use 500 watt halogen quartz lights. Don't really mind the electrical usage since I only turn them on when letting my dog out for 10 min or less. 11,000 lumens each I believe.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithoni...loodlight-OFL-300-500Q-120-LP-BZ-M6/100652913

If you're needing something to leave on all night I'd get some 70 watt or 100 watt metal-halide floods.

Sounds logical. I still keep a 500 watt halogen or 2 around for light quality and quantity testing. It really was the constant halogen burn out that caused me to snap back in 2005. I was using them heavily and going through the bulbs like candy. At the time Home Depot wanted $10 a bulb. But even driving down to Harbor Freight at $3 a bulb, I couldn't keep up.

Now, on cheap 50 watt led cob. In one year, I went through 2 50 watt drivers, and 3 cob chips (one was an underdriven 100 watt chip, by half.). Sanded and thermogreased it. ... Last 11 months, I switched over to the $2.50 50 watt chip with built-in driver. I think this is superior, since the thermal resistor lowers the current as heat builds. A separate driver cranks current, no matter how much heat builds up in the chip. Also, the chip with the built-in driver allows me to use a fan motor controller. This allows me to further under drive the chip when I don't need all 48 watts, further extending chip life....

What I can't stand is the insane cost of the heatsinking with high led chips. Wake me when we get an affordable 20k lumen 100 watt led chip.
 
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FRITZHID

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Honeywell makes a 42 watt LED outdoor flood light. I bought and installed one about 2 years ago, runs from dusk till dawn, have had no issues with it what so ever. Was about $50 at Sam's Club. Just bought 3 more for over at my tavern. Good, solid light.
 

degarb

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Honeywell makes a 42 watt LED outdoor flood light. I bought and installed one about 2 years ago, runs from dusk till dawn, have had no issues with it what so ever. Was about $50 at Sam's Club. Just bought 3 more for over at my tavern. Good, solid light.

And you didn't improve the light, thermal grease, or polish each thermal conduction surface on glass (lapping) ? I find this hard to believe, Fritz.:) .. Great tag line, btw!

I am also wondering if the light was 42w on the package, or is this what you measured?

Hmm... This is the heatsink I need for my dream 1500w led, https://youtu.be/9LauL5JxYis
No, probably crap, as it is not copper.
 
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idleprocess

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OP hasn't been seen since the day they posted >4 months ago.

An issue with pretty much all things consumer is twofold:
  • Purchase Price : The market strongly prefers a lower upfront cost even if this hurts total cost of ownership. This goes for major purchases like air conditioning compressors or minor ones like light bulbs; both will consume more electricity than their purchase price during their lifespans - in the case of an air conditioning compressor, a single season might eclipse its purchase price - but that upfront cost looms large while the operating cost is seen later, over time, in small increments, as a routine expense.
  • Business incentive for steady revenue stream : In concert with lowering that purchase price, corners are cut on quality and that thing that could be incredibly durable or perform phenomenally instead does neither. Witness warranties on the typical LED bulb sold pretty much everywhere. 10 year unconditional warranties are gone, replaced with 3 year warranties worth almost as much as the cost of printing them. Design practices also fail to inspire confidence - the era of beefy heatsinks is over and instead we have LEDs with admittedly better thermal tolerance and minuscule heatsinks or possible vias into expanses of unetched copper on the PCB. But these designs seem to operate on thinner margins thus fail more often. This is bad for the consumer, but good for business - assuming it doesn't result in too many RMAs.

The commercial space is better since they're selling to more sophisticated buyers, but the OEMs know very well how to set that price so as to slide just enough under satisfactory ROI and supply enough to the market to keep their lines humming.
 

TechGuru

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Sounds logical. I still keep a 500 watt halogen or 2 around for light quality and quantity testing. It really was the constant halogen burn out that caused me to snap back in 2005. I was using them heavily and going through the bulbs like candy. At the time Home Depot wanted $10 a bulb. But even driving down to Harbor Freight at $3 a bulb, I couldn't keep up.

Now, on cheap 50 watt led cob. In one year, I went through 2 50 watt drivers, and 3 cob chips (one was an underdriven 100 watt chip, by half.). Sanded and thermogreased it. ... Last 11 months, I switched over to the $2.50 50 watt chip with built-in driver. I think this is superior, since the thermal resistor lowers the current as heat builds. A separate driver cranks current, no matter how much heat builds up in the chip. Also, the chip with the built-in driver allows me to use a fan motor controller. This allows me to further under drive the chip when I don't need all 48 watts, further extending chip life....

What I can't stand is the insane cost of the heatsinking with high led chips. Wake me when we get an affordable 20k lumen 100 watt led chip.

I currently buy these 500 watt quartz bulbs at Walmart.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-2-Pack-500W-Halogen-Bulb/51746105

Most people don't know about them and only see the very expensive Philips packs on the light-bulb aisle. These cheaper ones are hidden on the power tool aisle near the work-lights.
 

fire-stick

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I found a place online that sells 100w and 150w metal halide flood lights with the bulb and everything for $14 and $18. I'm not sure as to the rules for sourcing goes but they are pretty easy to find on google shopping... just search for PSMH 150w. They are 14,000 lumens.
 

callehayes

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Hey,

Happy Holidays! I am in a similar situation, and I installed some lights like these

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JP9BT0/?tag=cpf0b6-20

They are installed on 12 feet high metal poles. Sadly, after maybe 2 years of dusk to dawn usage the bulbs are failing and the lampshades are breaking.

They are used to illuminate roadways and pathways inside the property.

I want to change these out with fixtures which allow me to put in a regular PAR38 or LED bulb, instead of those that come with integrated bulbs

Any advice on a fixture which can hold one or 2 non integrated LED or PAR 38 bulbs?

Would a setup like this be good enough?

http://www.lowes.com/pd/Lithonia-Li...White-Switch-Controlled-Floodlight/1000702938


and

http://www.lowes.com/pd/TORK-Photocell-Button/999910549

Or if you know of something of a higher quality let me know.

Thank you
 
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TechGuru

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Hey,

Happy Holidays! I am in a similar situation, and I installed some lights like these

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JP9BT0/?tag=cpf0b6-20

They are installed on 12 feet high metal poles. Sadly, after maybe 2 years of dusk to dawn usage the bulbs are failing and the lampshades are breaking.

They are used to illuminate roadways and pathways inside the property.

I want to change these out with fixtures which allow me to put in a regular PAR38 or LED bulb, instead of those that come with integrated bulbs

Any advice on a fixture which can hold one or 2 non integrated LED or PAR 38 bulbs?

Would a setup like this be good enough?

http://www.lowes.com/pd/Lithonia-Li...White-Switch-Controlled-Floodlight/1000702938


and

http://www.lowes.com/pd/TORK-Photocell-Button/999910549

Or if you know of something of a higher quality let me know.

Thank you



Personally, I'd swap it out for the same style fixture in HPS (High Pressure Sodium) or MH (Metal Halide) depending on which color of light you prefer.

Good_Security_Lights.png

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lithonia-Lighting-Gray-High-Pressure-Sodium-Area-Light/1000411835

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lithonia-Lighting-Lumen-Gray-Metal-Halide-Area-Light/1000703090

WalMart's have a metal-halide for $59.97 right now: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Brink-s-100W-Metal-Halide-Dusk-To-Dawn-Activated-Security-Light/16781199
 

callehayes

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Thank you, why do you recommend swapping it out with HPS or MH? I ordered the one remaining Metal Halide one from WM in my area.

Don't MH consume much more electricity than LED?

I need some help replacing the bulbs on my current outdoor light fixtures. The bulb types are

a) These are the metal halide lights I currently have - the bulb type says - 100 watt M90 O (O like orange). Is there a LED replacement I can easily swap it out with or do I just go for another MH bulb?

2) CFL E26 65 Watts I believe - I tried to put a medium base LED bulb to replace the CFL but it does not seem to work?

Thank you



Personally, I'd swap it out for the same style fixture in HPS (High Pressure Sodium) or MH (Metal Halide) depending on which color of light you prefer.

Good_Security_Lights.png

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lithonia-Lighting-Gray-High-Pressure-Sodium-Area-Light/1000411835

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lithonia-Lighting-Lumen-Gray-Metal-Halide-Area-Light/1000703090

WalMart's have a metal-halide for $59.97 right now: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Brink-s-100W-Metal-Halide-Dusk-To-Dawn-Activated-Security-Light/16781199
 

TechGuru

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Thank you, why do you recommend swapping it out with HPS or MH? I ordered the one remaining Metal Halide one from WM in my area.

Don't MH consume much more electricity than LED?

I need some help replacing the bulbs on my current outdoor light fixtures. The bulb types are

a) These are the metal halide lights I currently have - the bulb type says - 100 watt M90 O (O like orange). Is there a LED replacement I can easily swap it out with or do I just go for another MH bulb?

2) CFL E26 65 Watts I believe - I tried to put a medium base LED bulb to replace the CFL but it does not seem to work?

Thank you

Yes but they are much cheaper to buy than a LED with equal lumen output.

a) It is easier and cheaper to just replace the bulb. A led "conversion" will require changing the wiring to bypass the ballast and the LED replacement that would give you equal lumens is well over $100.

2) Like the MH, you would have to bypass the ballast to install a regular bulb..., I'd replace that fixture with the MH you ordered, them CFL security lights are a joke when it comes to lumens.

Take this LED fixture for example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerc...or-Dusk-to-Dawn-Area-Light-53301211/310776051

It's 64 watts and only 3500 lumens while a 100 watt metal halide at only 36 watts more is 9000 lumens.

100 watt metal halide or 70, 100, or 150 watt high pressure sodium is the way to go until equivalent output LED's come down to a comparable price. IMHO...
 

callehayes

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Hello,

Thank you so much for your help!! The issue we faced with the Lithonia MH type fittings, such as https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lithonia-Lighting-Lumen-Gray-Metal-Halide-Area-Light/1000703090 is that the shade (the opaque plastic part and metal rim on top) tends to come off.

If my family member wanted to swap out to a similar fixture type but one which would accept LED bulbs e.g. PAR 38 or medium base which I can change when fused, do you have any recommendations?

Thank you so much for your help, I appreciate it.

Yes but they are much cheaper to buy than a LED with equal lumen output.

a) It is easier and cheaper to just replace the bulb. A led "conversion" will require changing the wiring to bypass the ballast and the LED replacement that would give you equal lumens is well over $100.

2) Like the MH, you would have to bypass the ballast to install a regular bulb..., I'd replace that fixture with the MH you ordered, them CFL security lights are a joke when it comes to lumens.

Take this LED fixture for example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerc...or-Dusk-to-Dawn-Area-Light-53301211/310776051

It's 64 watts and only 3500 lumens while a 100 watt metal halide at only 36 watts more is 9000 lumens.

100 watt metal halide or 70, 100, or 150 watt high pressure sodium is the way to go until equivalent output LED's come down to a comparable price. IMHO...
 
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