Extended Hurricane Outage (1 Week)

anotherbrian

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Jun 1, 2018
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We are preparing for our yearly hurricane season again. Often we get power outages ranging from a few days to about a week or two.

Some desired characteristics are:
  • a loop handle
  • primary batteries (non-rechargeable)
  • I have no access to power during the outage
  • power consumption is obviously an issue but I can stock up on batteries

also we are looking for some lanterns where battery life is more important since they will be on when the sun is down. I noticed UST 30-day duro lantern may be a good fit but I am not fixed on it.

Frankly I am overwhelmed by the technical detail here on flashlights and so wonder if some obvious recommendations can be made. Thank you!
 

parametrek

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Welcome to the forums.

In that situation you would want rechargeable batteries and a small solar panel to recharge them. There is usually loads of sun after the hurricane comes through.

Of course you can also simply stock a week's worth of rechargeable batteries.
 

Lynx_Arc

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Some people have access to autos that can be used to charge batteries with correct car charger accessory, this is what I did in a 4.5 day outage charging 24 AA nimh batteries in my car I also used a cheap low power 3AAA led headlamp some it didn't run out of batteries either.
 

broadgage

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I would seriously consider a vintage or "old style" camping lantern that uses either 4 D cells or a 6 volt lantern battery and an incandescent bulb.
Not a narrow beam or focussed light but an area light with the bulb under a dome.
Replace the incandescent bulb with an LED drop in of about 1 watt.
About 100 lumens of area lighting, and with alkaline D cells about 60 hours run time.

One set of alkaline D cells should last a week of dusk until midnight use, but keep spares.
 

StarHalo

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  • a loop handle
  • primary batteries (non-rechargeable)
  • I have no access to power during the outage
  • power consumption is obviously an issue but I can stock up on batteries
- Any flashlight you put a loop lanyard on now has a loop handle.

- I also like primary batteries for power outages since I don't want to put my time and effort into finding ways to charge batteries, it's faster to just toss the old ones, grab some new ones, and carry on. However you don't want any battery types that would confuse a non-technical person (because there's no guarantee you'll be the one who needs to replace the batteries,) and you want to use a common type so you can scavenge from batteries elsewhere in your own house if it comes down to that - plain old AA cells fit the bill nicely here, and as a bonus you can get primary or rechargeable ones to suit your needs.

- Your car is access to power, importantly so since that's the only way to recharge your phone/USB-powered items without a solar kit. I strongly recommend a good ~$30 portable power pack for your phone, so that using the car is optional and you'll have at least a few charges in reserve for many days of phone standby.

- Don't forget a battery powered radio; once the power is out, there's no TV to get updates from, and you'll want to conserve your phone power, a radio tuned to your local news station will give you live updates nonstop on the storm, evacuations, outage updates, etc. A good radio running on fresh batteries will last many days nonstop without issue, and you can always tune around for something else to listen to during lulls to help boost morale. I recommend the CCrane CC Solar Explorer as it's easy for anyone to use, can use many different sources of power, and it even runs on AA batteries - if your flashlight is also AA-powered, now you're using the same batteries for everything. We have a radio thread on this forum as well if you want more info/have questions.
 

xxo

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I have a Rayovac "Indestructible" 3D cell lantern - very rugged and works well. I don't have one, but the 3D Streamlight Siege lantern is pretty well regarded. I think D cell alkaline batteries make a lot of sense for extended run times; I would suggest getting some 3 AA to D cell Parallel adapters so that you can run AA's as well. It's not a good idea to store alkaline batteries long term in your lights as they may leak.

Also remember that you can ceiling bounce a regular flashlight indoors by standing it on it's tail and shining it's beam onto a light colored ceiling.
 

bykfixer

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John 3:16
Welcome to the site otherB.

Those $3-6 Rayovacs and Evereadys from drug stores and grocery stores are plenty bright to navigate a dark home with lots of runtimes. Stock up on those, but leave the batteries out so in case they leak.

I have Mag Solitaires hanging on a nail at windows in my home. I also keep a stock of batteries along with several quart sized jar candles and matches.

Go to your local Home Depot and grab some of these too.
IMG_20180601_210604.jpg

$6 a pair.
They tailstand or hang on a hook too.

Of course you want at least one really good flashlight too. A Maglite like the 2C ML50Lwill be plenty bright to spot downed wires or look at your roof from the ground.

Buy Rayovac batteries for alkaline needs. They run just as long, cost less and don't leak.

Hope you don't need them this year.
 

InvisibleFrodo

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I've had issues with larger sized rayovacs. Specifically D cells. Not really with AAs or AAAs... Just saying. I guess I have bad luck in general with alkaline D cells. I believe it's now 3 of the MagLite 3D lights I've had ruined by leaky cells.
 

Burgess

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Very interesting thread here !

lovecpf


Tell me --

My 2018 Ford vehicle will only power
the USB ports, or cigarette lighter,
if the engine is Running !


Is this the norm with ALL vehicles now ? ? ?
< me dumb >


That severely limits using my car
just to charge my stuff !

:sigh:
_
 

Poppy

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Northern New Jersey
Very interesting thread here !

lovecpf


Tell me --

My 2018 Ford vehicle will only power
the USB ports, or cigarette lighter,
if the engine is Running !


Is this the norm with ALL vehicles now ? ? ?
< me dumb >


That severely limits using my car
just to charge my stuff !

:sigh:
_

Hi Burgess,
My Father's Nissan is similar. It has a push button start. However, if one wants to turn on accessories, he must press the start button, without depressing the brake pedal. IIRC, the key needs to be nearby.

Also my daughter's Mazda CX5 works similarly, BUT accessories don't stay live very long. I found a simple way to wire her cigar lighter/power port to stay hot at all times.

I bought a set of these...

EDIT: I added this photo, because the original link was broken...

ACtC-3eRbgAQD3Jy_xRXwvTC8jN98RJ0_wbFi1VMUWLpoTKuYb4AqK9cogozvJdnjoOfzAdq7uKtxyB-G_h7m6VLLfuHzDxQoK7WZwtznd79CgibAE23vKKj-uE_PMv7YndRi1vngMHRdFthDqPQizC_ea2F=w764-h944-no




It converts a single fuse slot in a fuse box into a dual fuse slot, and has a pig tail to supply fused power to another circuit.

With a test light I found a fuse in her fuse box that was hot at all times.
I also found the fuse that powered her power port.

I used a spade/male wire connector to supply fused power to one side of the fuse socket that supplies power to the power port.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-16-Count-Disconnects-Wire-Connectors/999953182

Let me clarify....
power comes from the battery to the fuse box... through the fuse... and then out to the power port. Connect the spade to the side of the fuse socket that goes to the power port. I put one of those USB converters into the power port... when the little light came on, I knew I had the correct side of the socket.
 
Last edited:

flatline

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Tennessee
2 comments:

1. Something like the Thrunite Ti3 with it's "firefly" mode will give you plenty of light for reading or navigating dark rooms. 100+ hours on a single AAA for "lesser tasks" will let you save the batteries of your more powerful lights for when you really need them.

2. The Eveready 1D flashlights already mentioned are real battery vampires. I can take a "dead" AAA from one of the kid's toys and get 20+ hours of run time from it. The output on "dead" batteries is more than a lumen, but not much more than a lumen. You'll need an adapter of some sort to use AA or AAA cells, but a C or D cell run just fine without adapters.

--flatline
 

Timothybil

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The great state of Misery (Missouri)
For area lighting I have the Energizer LED Folding Lantern, which uses either four or eight AA cells, and has a continuously adjustable output so you can tune the output to just enough light to meet you needs. It will work with just four AA cells, but will double the run time with eight. Because I use mine so rarely, I keep it loaded with lithium primary cells.
Energizer also makes several other models of the Light Fusion lights that would be handy for individual use, most with a regular LED beam as well as the Light Fusion area lighting feature.
I am assuming you are not in an area where you will run the risk of extended outages, like the residents of Puerto Rico, some of which still don't have power after nine months. But it would still be handy to have a couple of fully charge power banks as well, to do things like recharge your phone(s), tablets, etc. I own three, and keep them fully charged. I also have a portable 20 watt folding solar panel that I can use to recharge a power bank if I need to. Banggood sells these little LED lights that are basically a few LEDs mounted on a small piece of circuit board, with USB contacts on one end. One can find them with various numbers of LEDs, and some that actually will ramp up and down their output as desired. The produce an astonishing amount of light when in total darkness and use almost no power.
I also have a full solar setup with the 100 watt panel, charge controller and deep cycle battery that I can use for longer term outages. I got a good deal on the Renogy noncrystalline panel, and probably spent about $200 on the whole setup.
You will have to decide for yourself how prepared you want to be. With my power banks, solar panels, and cell recharger I am basically set for an indefinite length power outage. I have enough rechargeable AA and AAA cells to power my other flashlights so I will have carry-around lights as well. I even have a small USB fan.
 

StarHalo

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Messages
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Location
California Republic
My 2018 Ford vehicle will only power
the USB ports, or cigarette lighter,
if the engine is Running !

That severely limits using my car
just to charge my stuff !

The aforementioned ~$30 portable USB charger will give you ~five full phone charges; if you're just occasionally checking mail and waiting for calls, that's about 1000 hours of standby time, or 41 days.
 

ZMZ67

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Messages
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Location
Colorado
For indoor use I like the old low cost incan 6V lanterns with a Dorcy/Rayovac LED replacement bulb.Even though they create a focused beam most will tail stand and the "ceiling bounce" method works nicely to create area lighting. Indoors I actually think the "ceiling bounce" method is superior to light up an area than a dedicated lantern. If you need outdoor lighting or lack white ceilings to reflect light then a dedicated lantern should work better. Dorcy also has 4D to 6V adapters that will work if you don't want to use 6V batteries but I like the 6V better myself as leaks seam to stay better contained.
Another power outage favorite is the Pak-lite. Simple,uses 9V batteries and now available in warmer tint 4K model. They are small enough to carry in your pocket and can use lithium batteries for increased run-time. The Pak-lite will run on low for a long time even with alkalines.
I also use several Dorcy motion sensor night lights, model #41-1076. Not exceptionally bright but they offer plenty of light for navigating the house and remove the need for leaving lights on continually. I actually use them daily since they activate on movement and negate the need for flipping the light switch. Running on two AAs I can use Energizer lithiums to avoid battery leaks.

Whatever light you choose consider the batteries. Assuming you are going to use standard size batteries the only alkaline/carbon zinc batteries I generally use in lights are 9V(alkalines) and 6V(alkaline/carbon zinc). Both are made up of sub cells contained in a casing. Leaks still happen but they seem to be less severe than with typical AAA-D. AA lithium Energizers are the best bet and there are single or parallel 3AA to D battery adapters that allow you to use them in D cell lights.
 

xxo

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Messages
2,991
Welcome to the site otherB.

Those $3-6 Rayovacs and Evereadys from drug stores and grocery stores are plenty bright to navigate a dark home with lots of runtimes. Stock up on those, but leave the batteries out so in case they leak.

I have Mag Solitaires hanging on a nail at windows in my home. I also keep a stock of batteries along with several quart sized jar candles and matches.

Go to your local Home Depot and grab some of these too.
IMG_20180601_210604.jpg

$6 a pair.
They tailstand or hang on a hook too.

Of course you want at least one really good flashlight too. A Maglite like the 2C ML50Lwill be plenty bright to spot downed wires or look at your roof from the ground.

Buy Rayovac batteries for alkaline needs. They run just as long, cost less and don't leak.

Hope you don't need them this year.



Some good advice ^ – the 1D Evereadys are a good choice for each member of the family to use indoors – 25 lumens is enough to navigate safely through a dark house without tripping over things and is good for reading. These lights have a long runtime on a single D cell battery and will also run on C cells if need be. Another good thing about the 1D Eveready is that it will put off night light levels of light with batteries too depleted to work in other lights for many hours.

For a higher quality brighter/longer range light I would recommend the 3 D cell Maglite ML300 over the similar 2 or 3 C cell ML50 just to standardize on the higher capacity D cells and because the 3 cell versions of these lights give much longer run times, particularly with alkalines. The ML300 works well for ceiling bouncing and runtimes are very long in eco mode.


If you want something smaller/less expensive than the ML300 or ML50 but is still bright with a good beam distance, the 2 AA Rayovac 300 lumen "Indestructible" from Home Depot is a good choice, as is the Mini Maglite 2 AA Pro or Pro Plus (the Plus has a very useful low mode) and even the 3C cell Mag ML25 LED (the ML25 operates like the Mini Mags – twist the head to turn on and set focus).
 

maglite mike

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Apr 6, 2014
Messages
330
Some good advice ^ – the 1D Evereadys are a good choice for each member of the family to use indoors – 25 lumens is enough to navigate safely through a dark house without tripping over things and is good for reading. These lights have a long runtime on a single D cell battery and will also run on C cells if need be. Another good thing about the 1D Eveready is that it will put off night light levels of light with batteries too depleted to work in other lights for many hours.

For a higher quality brighter/longer range light I would recommend the 3 D cell Maglite ML300 over the similar 2 or 3 C cell ML50 just to standardize on the higher capacity D cells and because the 3 cell versions of these lights give much longer run times, particularly with alkalines. The ML300 works well for ceiling bouncing and runtimes are very long in eco mode.


If you want something smaller/less expensive than the ML300 or ML50 but is still bright with a good beam distance, the 2 AA Rayovac 300 lumen "Indestructible" from Home Depot is a good choice, as is the Mini Maglite 2 AA Pro or Pro Plus (the Plus has a very useful low mode) and even the 3C cell Mag ML25 LED (the ML25 operates like the Mini Mags – twist the head to turn on and set focus).
Don't forget the 3 D Cell Maglite LED 2nd generation lights. They cost around $20, have an 80 run time at 168 lumens. I also like the fact the switch is mechanical so there is no parasitic drain.
 

Poppy

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Northern New Jersey
In another thread, we discussed How Many Lumens, and How Many Batteries are needed for an outage to keep Everyone comfortable. Some are comfortable at just a few lumens of light, while others may go bonkers unless they have a hundred or more. One must consider the needs of everyone in his party, because one very uncomfortable person can make life unbearable for everyone else.

Each year StarHalo reminds us to practice a night without power.

The last time I did that, it was just my grandson, and myself.
When I flipped the switch, my auto-on lights came on. He casually walked to my bedroom, grabbed a flashlight, walked to his bedroom, changed into his PJs, and went to bed!

This was a reminder, that depending upon the time of year, one may not need more than a few hours of artificial light a night.

Like Timothybil, I have a couple of the Energizer folding lanterns that run on 4 or 8 AA cells. They were reviewed in our lantern section.
Here is a review of the 4AA Energizer lantern with light fusion technology.

For reviews of other lanterns you make look here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?90-Lanterns

I wouldn't suggest getting a lantern with more than 300 lumens. Typically the glare they put out is terribly distracting, AND they will drain your batteries significantly quicker than one that does 100 lumens, or less. There are many that have a high and low of 100-300 lumens. Again, I'd cruise through the lantern section of this site, for reviews of any particular model, but I would look for one that runs on 3D cells and has a 100 lumen setting (or thereabouts) and perhaps a low... nightlight setting.
Regarding 3D lanterns, I have a 300 lumen Ozark trail lantern, a couple Defiant 3D extended run time, and a GE "Enbrighten" lantern
Each are less than $20 and will give similar run times to the more expensive 30 day lanterns.

Like others, I prefer a ceiling bounced flashlight to a lantern. Of course that does not work too well outdoors. :)

I also like rechargeable 18650 batteries. In preparation for an outage, I'll top off a bunch of them, and know that I can recharge them in my car if needed eventually. If I were to make a specific recommendation for power outage flashlights, I'd suggest the Convoy S2+ with the XPL hi and biscotti firmware, and a little plastic white diffuser. While I generally prefer the XML2 led to the XPL hi, simply because it has a broader hot spot; Convoy doesn't make the S2+ with an (XML2 led AND biscotti) firmware. The Biscotti firmware allows one to select a lower low, that will sip battery energy, at night light levels (2-4 lumens) if that is wanted, for I am guessing 200-300 hours. OTOH one with an XML2 driven at 1400ma, will run on low (35-40 lumens) for about 40 hours.
 

Lynx_Arc

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One thing few have mentioned is USB based LED lighting and power banks. I've gotten into this some and if you scavenge 18650 batteries and use kits off Ebay and such you can build power banks for a few bucks that can power USB based lights and allow you to build your own lighting with cabling extenders and switches and splitters. Power banks can be bought cheaply too in the stores for $5 for a 2000mah one (in use more like 1000mah). The advantage of power banks is they are interchangeable in use can charge phones and be recharged in cars off laptops and computers and wall adapters you don't have to unmount the batteries and deal with dedicated chargers and some power banks have fast (Qualcomm) charging built into them too. In a pinch you can find USB fans too.
The disadvantage is recharge time, but if you have more than 1 power bank you can recharge one while using another and there are bigger power banks like 10000mah and 20000mah that can compete with D cells in output and runtime easily
You can get USB modules that draw from almost nothing (under 1ma) to 100ma and light modules that put out 300-500 lumens and if you have USB rechargeable flashlights you can recharge them from power banks (a lot less efficient than recharging them directly).
 

xxo

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Don't forget the 3 D Cell Maglite LED 2nd generation lights. They cost around $20, have an 80 run time at 168 lumens. I also like the fact the switch is mechanical so there is no parasitic drain.


Yup those are good too I keep a 3D Mag LED in my vehicle (running L91 AA Lithiums in adapters), 168 lumens may not sound like much but it throws real well for distance with a good sized spill for up close. For around the house I like the ML300 for it's added features (mutimodes, electronic switch, better heat sink) and brightness; parasitic drain from the switch can be cut off by loosening the tail cap slightly.
 
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