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Thread: Preon P1 MKIII

  1. #121

    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Lit up someoneís face in low mode the other night, and not having owned a High CRI light before, was frankly astounded with said personís face not looking the usual pale colour Iím used to with LED flashlights.

  2. #122
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by defloyd77 View Post
    So with this hybrid memory and the LMHB sequence, if you leave it on medium, when you turn it back on it will come on medium, but revert to low instead of high on the next half click, so what happens if you leave it on low? Obviously it will come back on in low, but will this hybrid memory make it turn to low instead of medium with a half press?
    Quote Originally Posted by K2-bk-bl-rd View Post
    If itís set up like the hybrid memory on the Oveready Boss, then yes, it would revert to low again, with a have press. Thatís how I always set up my Boss lights so I wouldnít have to toggle through the bright settings, to get back to low.
    To answer my own question, if you have it in for example config. 4, LMHB, if you turn it off in medium, it will go MLMH, if you turn it off in low, it will cycle LMH, not LLMH like I feared. Nicely done!
    What kind of self respecting nocturnal being cannot see in the dark, one way or another?

  3. #123
    Flashaholic* SaturnNyne's Avatar
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    I had another issue with the end-of-battery configuration-switching tonight, this time in regular use rather than while just puttering about the house. I was out using the light, I think at 15lm, when it suddenly started strobing to indicate a dying battery. I immediately shut it off and switched to another light. Without really thinking about it, I guess I assumed that the configuration was getting switched when I let it sit flashing, rather than the onset of flashing indicating that the configuration has already been changed. So, when I got home I got out of my car, and I turned on the P1 with the intention of immediately switching down to low, which I figured would easily run normally long enough to see my way inside. Instead, it had changed to configuration 2, so it came on attempting high and a shift took it to tactical strobe. Glad I'm not epileptic.

    So, looks like every time I run a battery down, I have to replace it and reconfigure. Undesirable, but I'm not terribly bothered by this. It's not really a big problem, for me. But of course it's important to acknowledge that I'm speaking as a light-obsessive. Though my needs and preferences are unusually exacting, my needs are also less than the average person's, in the sense that my uses are nearly always covered by multiple nice lights. But with a normal person in mind, who would likely be buying this as their only light to carry, to configure once and then forget how to do it, this prototype version is not quite ready for primetime. Research shows that at least 66% of buyers demand that their flashlight not behave as if possessed at the end of every battery. But, it's a test batch! This is exactly the kind of thing this run is supposed to shake out I guess. Still, I'm a little sad that what I initially took as an improvement in low battery behavior over my Beta has ended up being a conspicuous fault.

    Has anyone else experienced this yet, or is it just me? Surely someone else has run their battery down by now. I know my light has this issue every time I reach the end of a battery while using 15lm, since that's my most used level. Not sure whether the same thing happens from the other levels.



    Quote Originally Posted by Got Lumens? View Post
    As was mentioned this is a test batch, a test run. Let it all out the good, the bad, the ugly and the beautiful. Can't fix what You don't know is broke , and Yu'd rather make mistakes on a few, figure out what needs to changed, rather than the many.
    Just how I see it: we don't benefit the maker if we don't share any problems we run into as early as possible.


    Quote Originally Posted by Got Lumens? View Post
    The Factory erred and glued the tailcaps on! The tails are removable and serviceable by design if the adhesive can be broke free without damaging the light. Post up any success You may have had battling adhesives like this. Future runs will not be glued.
    Glad to hear this! Doesn't help my light, so fingers crossed, but the serviceable switch seems a lot more in line with the Prometheus way of doing things.


    Quote Originally Posted by Got Lumens? View Post
    These new lights feature a 219C, a tad bit more powerful than the 219B emitter's. This batch appears to be in the tint bin(s) ~4500 - 5000 kelvin to how my eyes see, pleasant. My preliminary exams show these P1's to be a bit brighter than my Beta's. I too will get some light readings soon.
    Interesting on the temperature. Your guess is 4500-5000k, and I'm guessing about the same. What's surprising is that it's rated at 4000k, while the Beta is 4500k, but my Beta is warmer than my Preon. Both nice, just funny how they range.


    Quote Originally Posted by SaturnNyne View Post
    One request: Please donít be that guy who quotes this entire thing in a reply! I been away a while, but I see you out there!
    Quote Originally Posted by Got Lumens? View Post
    *quotes entire long post*
    Lol, I see you there!



    Quote Originally Posted by malJohann View Post
    Got mine. Happy. #shortestreviewever?
    In brevity, beauty.

    Quote Originally Posted by malJohann View Post
    Lit up someoneís face in low mode the other night, and not having owned a High CRI light before, was frankly astounded with said personís face not looking the usual pale colour Iím used to with LED flashlights.
    There's no going back, I don't think.
    There are two ways of spreading light: to be the candle or the mirror that reflects it. - Edith Wharton HDS Clicky/Rotary Registry

  4. #124

    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by Got Lumens? View Post
    First Thank You for your review and Video!


    The Factory erred and glued the tailcaps on! The tails are removable and serviceable by design if the adhesive can be broke free without damaging the light. Post up any success You may have had battling adhesives like this. Future runs will not be glued.

    GL
    The back end of my Satin Black unscrews, but the underlying retaining ring for the clip must be glued. Do you all have any idea what adhesive they used?

  5. #125

    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Same here. This is as far as I got:


  6. #126

    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by SNES View Post
    Same here. This is as far as I got:

    Unfortunately my satin one doesn't even get that far. Picked them up on the way to work, so might try and crack out the strap wrenches when I get home and see what happens!

    Edit: Looking at the threads, and the posted photos more closely, it looks like they may have used a red-strength threadlocker. Things are not looking good....
    Last edited by jylong_away; 06-29-2018 at 06:25 AM.

  7. #127
    Flashaholic* archer6817j's Avatar
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    Default Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by SaturnNyne View Post
    I had another issue with the end-of-battery configuration-switching tonight, this time in regular use rather than while just puttering about the house. I was out using the light, I think at 15lm, when it suddenly started strobing to indicate a dying battery. I immediately shut it off and switched to another light. Without really thinking about it, I guess I assumed that the configuration was getting switched when I let it sit flashing, rather than the onset of flashing indicating that the configuration has already been changed.
    This is actually normal behavior. The light canít have a low battery behavior because itís also designed to work with two cells. Two empty cells would be 1.8V, well above the full voltage of a single cell. In some sense thatís good, because the light could determine if you have one or two cells. Iíll investigate, but I donít know if the hardware is present to support that.

    In any case, the light will reconfigure itself when the battery is dead because itís actually turning off when it reads .9V. Then when the light is off, the battery recovers voltage and the light turns on again. Basically itís just turning in and off repeatedly. Generally I recommend recharging early and often

  8. #128

    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Are you saying I can use my New head on a Preon P2 body with two AAA?

  9. #129

    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    After a bit of tinkering today, I can confirm that it is indeed red loctite that secures the threads of the end-cap that houses the rubber boot/button. Still have no idea what's being used to retain the clip. It actually looks like the end-piece that's housing the switch was pressure fit, and sealed with red loctite. Can anyone in-the-know(ie. from Prometheus!) confirm this?

  10. #130
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by jylong_away View Post
    After a bit of tinkering today, I can confirm that it is indeed red loctite that secures the threads of the end-cap that houses the rubber boot/button. Still have no idea what's being used to retain the clip. It actually looks like the end-piece that's housing the switch was pressure fit, and sealed with red loctite. Can anyone in-the-know(ie. from Prometheus!) confirm this?
    I can confirm that the industrial permanent thread locking adhesive they were not supposed to install, it's not commercial grade lock tite, used to glue these is vibration resistant and also heat resistant to 150įC. You can check your light, but chances are yours won't budge either without permanently damaging the light. It is not coming off without a serious fight. There are no known solvents for this adhesive. The factory will not be using this high grade thread locker in the future by request.

    The clip is retained as usual and is held in place by the switch assembly.

    Your eyes are not deceiving You, the switch itself is press fit into the tail switch allowing it to be serviced by design. However be advised don't try it on these test lights, as it is meant to be done with the switch disassembled from the body of the light for proper safe access, and just in case any of the thread locking adhesive got between the switch itself and switch body which would prevent the undamaged removal. The non-glued will come .



    Quote Originally Posted by Cerealand View Post
    Are you saying I can use my New head on a Preon P2 body with two AAA?
    I'm game, but where is my P2 light, I can't find it. Dang, I just ordered a replacement, I need it
    Last edited by Got Lumens?; 06-30-2018 at 08:38 AM.

  11. #131

    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Thanks for the indepth reply - it's much appreciated. I did manage to get the tailcap off (the bit that retains the rubber boot), but not the switch assembly and clip. Can I confirm when you say that the clip is held in the 'usual way', that you mean the switch asaembly is threaded in to the body?

    Finally, a serious question - how heat resistant are the components of the switch? I'm thinking more 'boiled water' than 'blowtorch', btw ;p

    As a complete aside(and as I've seen similar comments floating around FB), Titaniun P2 model please! I actually avoided the old Preon range due to issues with the UI and emitter. The Prometheus iteration solves a lot of EDC problems for me.
    Last edited by jylong_away; 06-30-2018 at 04:25 PM.

  12. #132
    Flashaholic* archer6817j's Avatar
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    Default Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by jylong_away View Post
    Can I confirm when you say that the clip is held in the 'usual way', that you mean the switch asaembly is threaded in to the body?

    Finally, a serious question - how heat resistant are the components of the switch? I'm thinking more 'boiled water' than 'blowtorch', btw ;p
    Yes, the sub assembly that holds the clip is threaded. Unfortunately the type of loctite used is both permanent and heat resistant. I managed to open one in the shop after heating to 350*F for 15 minutes and then using two specialized tools to grip the threads. I donít think itís possible to do any other way. You can push the switch out with a small rod on the rubber boot. The switch can be replaced without dissembling the light at all.

    The main issue is if you bend the pocket clip and need to retention, but if you send it back there is a good chance we can open it without ruining the light.

  13. #133

    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    I did manage to get the tailcap off without head, but as you say, it did require some specialized grip tools, and a lot of rubber padding to avoid marring the finish too much. Even then, the outside of the tailcap now has 'character' :P

    Out of curiousity, what did you use to heat the light to that temp without effecting the surface finish? And I'm guessing you removed the switch itself before the heading?

  14. #134
    Flashaholic* archer6817j's Avatar
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by jylong_away View Post
    Out of curiousity, what did you use to heat the light to that temp without effecting the surface finish? And I'm guessing you removed the switch itself before the heading?
    I have a hot plate and IR thermometer. Iím pretty sure the switch would melt if exposed to those temps.

  15. #135
    Flashaholic* SaturnNyne's Avatar
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by archer6817j View Post
    In any case, the light will reconfigure itself when the battery is dead because itís actually turning off when it reads .9V. Then when the light is off, the battery recovers voltage and the light turns on again. Basically itís just turning in and off repeatedly. Generally I recommend recharging early and often
    Interesting! Thank you very much for the explanation of what's happening, Jason. I wish that weren't the case, but I feel better knowing why it's happening.

    If it stays this way, I would suggest a very clear explanation of this behavior to buyers, or you'll definitely be hearing about it often from them. If there's something that can be done about it, like disabling configuration below a certain voltage, or a one second disabler that keeps the light from immediately coming back on when it shuts off due to low voltage, I'd definitely recommend looking into that. Any refinement to make the light seem like it's doing something it was designed to do, rather than behaving unexpectedly due to a design limitation. This light is expensive enough that little quirks like that can easily tarnish the impression it makes, and this light is good enough overall that it deserves to be a big success (as do you).

    Detecting battery configuration and behaving appropriately would be great, if possible in a standard clicky switch design that cuts all power when off. I've only had this feature in cpu controlled lights that keep power always connected. But if there's absolutely no confusing crossover between a fresh lithium AAA and a very dead 2xNiMH, why not I guess.

    Preemptive recharging would be ideal here, but I don't see myself doing that for this light. I've killed a few batteries in it now, and every one died suddenly when I wasn't expecting it, so the attention I'd have to put into coddling the light would be a much greater inconvenience to me than reconfiguring is. Maybe it'd be different if I used high power more and noticed it dimming, but using it 99% of the time on low and medium means it goes straight from fully functional to randomly reconfigured. But oh well, I carry backups for backups, so I can live with it!
    There are two ways of spreading light: to be the candle or the mirror that reflects it. - Edith Wharton HDS Clicky/Rotary Registry

  16. #136

    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Hokey dokey, so thanks to the previous feedback in this thread, I've managed to sort out the threadlocker on the tailcap and switch assembly, and fully disassembled the light. It was mainly an exercise in curiousity, but did allow me to see how well the parts were machined from a tolerance point of view.

    Have been playing around with the light from a usability standpoint, and do generally like it. Firstly, it's *consistent* in its operation. By this, I mean that the light will behave exactly as it says in the instructions, with regards to mode changing, etc. I haven't yet found a situation where a click/press has put it into an unexpected mode. I found the previous iteration of Foursevens AAA lights (such as the Bolt Mini) a bit messy in the way the UI was executed. And then there was all that confusion as to how long you had to keep the light off for to 'remember' a mode. It's actually what put me off getting a Preon after playing with a Bolt Mini.

    As some have mentioned, I'm a bit two ways about the hybrid memory - I like the 'memory' concept overall for EDC lights, but the 'hybrid' behaviour still takes me by surprise sometimes (eg. light going to low after changing from a 'remembered' medium setting). Ideally, I'd love the option of configuring between classic/hybrid/no memory like with the Alphas, but have no idea if the hardware on the Preons will support this. 'Boost' mode is awesome

    With regards to the removal of 'threads' on the body, I do have to say that it makes the light a bit slippery to operate using the 'cigar' grip, as this is where my index and middle fingers wrap around the light. This may be a function of how short and stubby my hands are, and those with longer fingers may find that they reach the threads on the head when using this grip, and don't have that issue. This doesn't mean I think the threads should be brought back - I think the easy of clipping/unclipping with this configuration is too much of a plus. Is there any way to make the midsection grippier without threading/knurling?

  17. #137

    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    I wrapped some thin paracord around the lights body where it is slimmer. Perfect, because it doesnít move. Grip feels great

  18. #138

    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by n3mo View Post
    I wrapped some thin paracord around the lights body where it is slimmer. Perfect, because it doesnít move. Grip feels great
    Great idea! Especially since I've got a tonne of paracord sitting around from a few years ago. Might even try some glow stuff...

  19. #139
    Enlightened lumenati's Avatar
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by Cerealand View Post
    Are you saying I can use my New head on a Preon P2 body with two AAA?
    I could not get my Preon MkIII head to work with my P2 bodies. Or my P1s, for that matter. Seemingly not making contact. (a little ball of foil may fix that) However, the older Preon heads do work with the new Preon P1, MkIII bodies.

  20. #140
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by lumenati View Post
    I could not get my Preon MkIII head to work with my P2 bodies. Or my P1s, for that matter. Seemingly not making contact. (a little ball of foil may fix that) However, the older Preon heads do work with the new Preon P1, MkIII bodies.
    I found the same with my samples... the threaded parts of the body tubes are different lengths comparing classic Preon and MkIII. The MkIII head does not make contact with the board when attached to the classic tube. The classic head *does* light up on the MkIII tube, but the O-ring is exposed.

  21. #141
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by lumenati View Post
    I could not get my Preon MkIII head to work with my P2 bodies. Or my P1s, for that matter. Seemingly not making contact. (a little ball of foil may fix that) However, the older Preon heads do work with the new Preon P1, MkIII bodies.
    Quote Originally Posted by ronniepudding View Post
    I found the same with my samples... the threaded parts of the body tubes are different lengths comparing classic Preon and MkIII. The MkIII head does not make contact with the board when attached to the classic tube. The classic head *does* light up on the MkIII tube, but the O-ring is exposed.
    I found mine!

    My sample works fine with the Satin EN and the Satin Black. I'll check the other two . . .

    Now I have a second one in shipping that has not arrived to compare this to.




    Edit: I just powered up the original P2 MKII on the MKIII P1 body, and You can see the tint difference side by side, Nichia LED's are cool.
    I'll upload a photo later.
    Last edited by Got Lumens?; 07-03-2018 at 06:07 PM.

  22. #142
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Interesting. You can definitely see the difference from the MKII's XP-L and the MKIII's Nichia LED




  23. #143
    Flashaholic* RUSH FAN's Avatar
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Anyone experiencing any issues with the clicky not turning the light on?

    I bought one off another member on the sales section, and have experienced on occasion the light not turning on with the clicky. Everything appears to be tightened down, and I have a freshly charged battery in it. Do you think that the clicky needs some work done on it?

  24. #144
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by RUSH FAN View Post
    Anyone experiencing any issues with the clicky not turning the light on?

    I bought one off another member on the sales section, and have experienced on occasion the light not turning on with the clicky. Everything appears to be tightened down, and I have a freshly charged battery in it. Do you think that the clicky needs some work done on it?
    Does this happen on all the UI settings? When this happens, does loosening and re tightening the head, w/out clicking clear the trouble? Does the trouble clear itself by re-clicking the switch? Do You know if the other member had the same trouble? Does it happen using different cells? And have You tried No-Oxide cleaner on your cell and driver board? It sounds like residue from the glue off the factory battery isolation tab may be left on the cell or driver board. Does wiping/cleaning the battery contacts with rubbing alcohol have any effect?

  25. #145

    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    https://imgur.com/a/iJlEXFz
    I use a 2-110 oring to improve grip cigarette grip.
    Last edited by scintillator; 07-04-2018 at 08:47 AM. Reason: picture

  26. #146

    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Quote Originally Posted by scintillator View Post
    I use a 2-110 oring to improve grip cigarette grip.
    Great idea.

    ~ CG
    Never point a flashlight at anything you don't intend to illuminate! Never buy a flashlight you have to make payments on.

  27. #147
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Depending upon your bodies physics,
    I have found that trying overlapping grips work well. Instead of grasping the entire body within a clenched fist, Use just a two -three finger grip. In my nerve damaged hand it vastly improved the usability and clickiness of the light. Shifting your grip will allow additional support options, assisted head rest options, while applying apposing pressure to activate the switch. Also try using your index finger instead of thumb to activate the switch.
    Last edited by Got Lumens?; 07-04-2018 at 05:44 PM.

  28. #148
    Flashaholic* SaturnNyne's Avatar
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Anyone noticed that the runtime specs for the Preon have been reduced? 60lm level has dropped from 2 hours to 1, max from 1hr to .75hr or less, and low from 120hrs to 100hrs. (The spec summary graphic in the description still claims a 120 hour max runtime though.)
    The 15lm level remains unchanged at 10hrs.

    I just did a 15 lumen runtime test. Given my results, it'd be silly to pretend I'm not disappointed. No one else is reporting any data here, so I'm left wondering if I'm the only one with a lemon. Or is everyone so concerned with ungluing the tailcap that they're not actually using their lights, lol! Seriously though, can someone make runtime observations on their own lights so we can see if they're in line with mine at all?

    I needed to get a definite sense of runtime because a week of daily use, with known batteries instead of just pre-charged, had only strengthened my efficiency doubts, which I'd noted here:
    Quote Originally Posted by SaturnNyne View Post
    I used it mostly on low and medium. . . . And I would guess that my mostly momentary uses over a couple days totaled far less than ten hours, so I was surprised when it gave out as soon as it did.
    [...]
    I did observe something I found odd: The Beta and Preon run at about the same medium output, but the Preon is supposedly more than twice as efficient at this level, and yet it also gets noticeably warmer than the Beta. . . . So I do wonder, how does the P1 generate about the same light and more heat on much less power?
    The answer to how it does that is that it doesn't.

    I put charged Eneloops, from the same package, used and charged the same number of times, in the Beta and Preon and turned them on at their 15lm settings. As mentioned previously, the Preon actually appears to be slightly lower in output than the Beta, though not by much.
    The Beta is specced at a runtime of 4 hours, the Preon at 10 hours.
    10 minutes in, the Beta was running at basically room temperature, while the Preon was very warm all the way to its tail.
    90 minutes in, I was surprised to look up and find the Beta cruising along, but the Preon flickering in its usual death throes.
    98 minutes, Preon stopped flashing and settled into a steady matchstick glow.
    I didn't notice when exactly the Preon shut off altogether, but it was stone dead by 110 minutes.
    15lm for less time than the original claim for 60lm. Dude, that's... a bummer and a half.
    The Beta dropped to a low output around 3hrs and 25 minutes, and at just over 3.5hrs it gave one last sputter and died.
    The Beta is more than twice as efficient as the light that's supposed to be more than twice as efficient as it... so the specs are accurate in a funny sort of way, just reversed.

    Based on my observations in use, I expected this Preon wouldn't be nearly as efficient as claimed, so I had an expectation that both lights might only manage about the same three to four hours, but I certainly didn't expect the P1 to be so much less efficient than the very similar Beta. What more can you say about that... 90 minutes at 15 lumens is not ten hours. It's not even half of the more than three hours of the Beta. This is a remarkably inefficient lightóor at least my copy is; hasn't anyone made some observations on theirs yet?

    So my feelings are mixed at this point. I really like the Preon overall. Form factor, UI, outputs, clip, beam, tintóall excellent. And I can still get some use out of the light as a smaller alternative for brief uses. But part of why I bought this light was because its UI and impressive claimed efficiency would allow it to largely replace my bulkier AA light for my typical uses. The reality of the efficiency shortfall I'm actually getting from it is that it can't entirely do what I bought it to do. It's not just a disappointing efficiency underperformer, it's is-my-light-broken? inefficient. Seriously, hoping other users will give input here, because it seems like my light's broken, even though the spec page changes have already acknowledged that actual efficiency is less than originally claimed.

    0:071:32 1:38 3:24

    Quote Originally Posted by RUSH FAN View Post
    Anyone experiencing any issues with the clicky not turning the light on?

    I bought one off another member on the sales section, and have experienced on occasion the light not turning on with the clicky.
    Does it only hesitate to come on for a moment? I've had it sometimes not register an activation for a fraction of a second after an uncertain push, then come on. I think this might have to do with making dodgy connections in the switch when it's not pushed absolutely straight, maybe combined with the feature that's intended to prevent mode changes when bumped? But I can't come up with a sensible explanation of why I'd think that. Does this happen with fresh and depleted cells? Mine seems to work consistently on a good battery. Does the problem happen when the button is pressed at a slight angle, rather than straight down? Just throwing out a few ideas.


    Quote Originally Posted by Got Lumens? View Post
    Also try using your index finger instead of thumb to activate the switch.
    I like using it this way, but have found that it makes me more likely to push the switch at an angle, so operation becomes less consistent.
    There are two ways of spreading light: to be the candle or the mirror that reflects it. - Edith Wharton HDS Clicky/Rotary Registry

  29. #149
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    Great Observations

    Yes on the, You can fool the accidental bump protection by manipulating the switch.

    I can't explain some of your results in runtimes, but there are some major differences between the two lights to take
    into consideration, but do not account for your findings. Two mode Beta flashlights do not drive the LED as hard as the
    Three mode Beta's and so last a bit longer than a three mode. The Beta and the Preon MKIII do not share the same
    Class Nichia LED and both use a different driver board. Several specifications are still in testing.

    I agree the results don't add up. I'll test a Brass Beta on the New P1 switch body to check for differences.
    I just started a Medium P1 MKIII run on a fully charged 800 mAh cell.


    Here's P1 MKIII original calculated values chart followed by the Beta then The P1 MKII
    Preon P1 MK III

    MODES


    • Low (Moonlight) = 1 lumen
    • Medium = 15%
    • High = 60%
    • Max = 100%
    • Burst = 100% (enter burst with 2 fast cycles from any mode)
    • Strobe = 100% @ 20Hz
    • Beacon = 100% double blink every 5 seconds


    Low: 1 lumen, 100 hrs

    Medium: 15 lumens, 10 hrs
    High: 60 lumens, 1 hrs
    Max: 100 lumens, .75 hrs-
    Burst: 100 lumens, .75 hr

    What's up with burst mode?
    : This feature is ported over from the flagship Prometheus Alpha Flashlights. It allows you to access maximum output at any time without scrolling through other modes. This also allows you to have maximum output when you need it, but conserve battery by using the standard high mode (60% output) for normal use.








    Preon P1 Mk II

    Last edited by Got Lumens?; 07-12-2018 at 10:02 AM.

  30. #150
    Flashaholic* Got Lumens?'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Preon P1 MKIII

    I just finished a Medium 15% according to the manual, on a freshly charged 800 mAh NiMh and
    only got to ~ 90 minutes before LV condition, on my EN SF sample. I wasn't watching it the whole
    time, my times are approximate. I just now took the same MKIII head and I am running it again
    on Medium 15% using a P2 tube and switch.

    Edit: Interesting. So far the head is barely warm enough to tell it is on. Using a single cell the head
    heated up more. I'll snap some IR readings and update.

    Preon MKIII EN SF Prototype Temperature readings on Medium, 2 Cell 2.4V
    Start 0 Minutes . . . . 86įF Room Temperature
    After 5 minutes . . . .99įF
    After 10 Minutes . . 100įF
    After 30 Minutes . . 105įF
    Ok The two cell configuration is totally dead after 3 hours on Medium.
    I was not monitoring the time of LV this test, but will update with further testing as it develops.


    Preon P1 MKII Satin Black has been running for 100 minutes so far on medium setting connected to the
    new MKIII P1 SF PVD P1 body/switch @ 90įF temperature.

    I'm into hour 13 on the P2 MKII on Medium setting running two 800 mAh ReCyko cells. The temperature is only 2įF above ambient room temperature @ 83įF.

    Still going after ~14-1/2 hours. The output has diminished to less than half.
    After ~ 15 hours 45 min it dimmed out. I left the light switched on until now. clicked off, got one burst then no light.
    Last edited by Got Lumens?; 07-08-2018 at 03:10 PM.

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