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Thread: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

  1. #1
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    It's time to finally present my new thrower project, the BFF.
    I have gathered parts for a mega thrower since 2016, and it currently consists of mainly that, a bunch of parts.
    I'm still missing some so this could take a while, but hopefully, I will have this beast finished this year.



    The Carbon Fiber tube:



    A picture of the heart in this light, the tiny arc. You can barely spot the glowing anode to the left, and to the right of the hot spot, the reflection of the arc on the cathode.
    For size reference, the anode diameter is about 6 mm.



    This is my first Xenon build, and it will be self-contained, in a big flashlight format.
    And if everything goes to plan, it should also be the worlds longest throwing flashlight.
    Besides the performance, one of the things I will be focusing on in this build, is weight savings wherever I can.
    The light may be big, but it won't be that heavy for its size.

    The main specifications:

    500W Xenon short arc lamp
    Adjustable Xenon power supply
    266mm (10.5") electroformed reflector, Aluminium Quartz
    AR coated, tempered front glass
    1000W pure sine wave inverter
    29 Volt battery, 12 A
    Carbon Fiber, honeycomb core housing
    Anodized Aluminium parts
    Active cooling
    4.3" Touchscreen, Arduino and Bluetooth


    Basic Q&A:

    -BFF? Big F**king Flashlight. Clearly. Working title: Big Focused Flashlight
    -Isn't it Carbon Fibre? Yeah, probably some of that too.
    -Why? Because I wanted to.
    -Runtime? Approx 30 minutes.
    -Is the lamp an Osram XBO 500W/RC? No.
    -1?? Mcd - Did you forget a decimal in there? No.
    Last edited by PolarLi; 08-07-2018 at 05:35 AM.
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  2. #2
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Reserved for updates.
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  3. #3
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    I've had the lamp, reflector and a power supply for a while, but I had not been able to test it on an inverter because I didn't have a battery.
    Now I have.

    I built this earlier this summer from 32 Samsung 3000 mAh 30Q cells in 8S4P config with a 60A BMS that also has a Bluetooth module.
    This means I can monitor the battery status on my phone using an app. I can also hook up a USB interface so I can program the BMS on my computer
    (I can do the basic adjustments on the phone).

    The charging setup is a 6A Li-ion charger, and I will connect it to an XLR socket on the back plate so I can just plug it in for charging.
    The BMS also has a manual on-off switch that I will hook up to the main switch on the light, that will power on the system. The rest will be done on the touchscreen.



    First test:


    Lot of cables:



    Finally wrapped it today:



    Total weight, 1745 gram

    A couple of screenshots of the phone and computer interface:






    One of the biggest challenges so far was to find an inverter, so long story below for those who want the details.

    The Xenon PSU needs AC (technically, DC works too, but you need pretty high voltage) and I figured a sine wave inverter doesn't cost much nowadays, so that would be easy enough.
    But I immediately saw that practically none of these 24-volt inverters could handle the full voltage range of the 8S Li-ion battery pack.
    And a 7S battery pack would under voltage.

    So there was basically a few other solutions: Make a LiFePO4 battery pack, and lose a lot of capacity, or make it the same capacity, and accept almost twice the weight.
    This wasn't really an option in a portable light.
    Alternatively, I could use 8S Li-ion, but never fully charge it, which pretty much leave you with the same capacity as LiFePO4....
    I also had some ideas about using diodes and relays to drop the voltage until I had loaded the battery,
    but the best option was obviously to modify the inverter to handle the full voltage range (20-33.6V)
    to get the absolute maximum capacity out of the batteries, if needed. Unfortunately, I don't have the know-how to do this myself.
    So I contacted several inverter manufacturers in China. Only a few said they could do this modification for me,
    so I took a chance and ordered one. Well, what I received was just a standard unmodified inverter.
    Luckily, it was easy enough to sell, so I didn't lose any money, but I did waste a lot of time.

    But I figured, I just have to try again, and this time I had a long dialog with the manufacturer beforehand to assure they didn't screw me over.
    Well, it worked, and a while later I finally had an Inverter that actually worked like I had ordered it to.
    Total cost for the modified inverter with shipping ended up at $145, not bad at all!
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  4. #4

    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    I dig your posts. Fascinating. I can't really tell what you're doing here, but I can't wait to see. You've got my attention. Subscribed!

  5. #5
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Thanks! And if it's any consolation, not really sure what i'm doing here myself So far I haven't installed any parts in the tube, but will add pictures along the way.
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  6. #6

    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Looks impressive so far. You'll probably want a good pair of binoculars to go with as I think the throw will far exceed human eyesight
    Hello darkness my old friend,
    I've come to talk with you again...
    I liked neutral tints before they were cool.

  7. #7
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Thanks, and yeah, probably. Based of 100 million candela, i'm going to get a range of 20,000 meters or 12.4 miles (ANSI FL1) But rumors has it, it may be a bit more than that
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  8. #8
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    So yesterday I made two small, but somewhat important parts -
    The shoulder strap attachment points. Yeah, this light needs a shoulder strap. Go figure

    The reason I made these tabs now, is that I need to have them anodized before I can continue working on the tube, and fit the other parts that need anodizing.

    So to avoid sending two tiny parts to the anodizing company and pay the start-up fee, I started today's project. Try to anodize them myself.
    I will send in the bigger parts later when I have them ready.
    There will probably be some color difference, but they are not the same alloy, so there
    would be color difference regardless.

    Cut the pieces out with the jigsaw:



    A lot of filing and sanding later:



    Below are the flanges that will hold the tabs and the front and back cover. They were laser cut (more info on that later) but to be certain the holes were perfect for threading,
    I drew them .2mm undersized, and drilled them to the correct size myself:



    Chamfer:



    Tapping. I did the same with the tabs, so they will be hold on with one bolt, plus some epoxy.



    Then on to the anodizing. I used sodium bisulfate instead of sulphuric acid. It comes in the form of PH-Minus for pools.
    I found the receip on google, and saw a couple of youtube videos





    Bought the dye on Ebay, 0.5 gram powder is enough for 0.5 liter of water.



    Warmed the dye to 50C and soaked the parts for about 15 minutes, then 20 minutes in boiling water to seal it:





    First and second test piece:



    Then I did the parts:



    Being my first time anodizing, I'm very pleased! It's probably not the most durable thing in the world, but this light won't be my EDC..

    As I mentioned, these tabs will be fixed to the flange that holds the back cover and front glass to the housing/tube.
    To install the two flanges, I will carve out some of the honeycomb core on each end of the CF tube using a Dremel,
    I will then glue in this alu flange so it will be flush with the edge of the tube. The alu flange will also provide a gasket surface for the front and back cover/glass.
    The flanges also reinforces the tube, although it's extremely rigid as it is. I'm pretty sure I can stand on it!


    Last edited by PolarLi; 08-07-2018 at 06:30 PM.
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  9. #9
    Flashaholic* The_Driver's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Suscribed!
    I love every light you post about here!

  10. #10
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    If you use a chisel blade, you can densify the core on the ends. Once densified, install the strap lug and close out ring with a polysulfide type sealant. Plenty strong and will waterproof the tube.
    Paper core is notorious for picking up moisture then getting mushy. An epoxy will crack with thermal expansion and still require some type of environmental seal.
    Those that can, do. Those that can't, teach.

  11. #11
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    The driver, thanks, hopefully there will be a few more post when I get warmed up here
    ----
    NoNotAgain, thanks for the tip, but the install was done 5 days ago... Not familiar with polysulfide type sealant, but I used something called MS polymer adhesive/sealant. That too is super strong, and is slightly flexible, UV resistent, non toxic and all that stuff. I'm going to post an update soon, just need to upload some pics first.
    Last edited by PolarLi; 08-30-2018 at 03:51 PM.
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  12. #12
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Yes, it's been a while, but I have just been very busy with all kinds of other stuff. And when I was ready to upload the pictures yesterday, Imgur upload was down for a whole day..
    Anyhow, I have done a few more things. Maybe not the most exciting things, but never the less, essential parts of the build.

    So I started with drilling out a cavity in the spider. The spider is the part that will secure the front of the lamp. For the lamp I'm using, it's probably not crucial,
    but should protect it from an impact. But the reason for the small cavity will become clear later
    I actually used a Forstner bit made for wood, but some googling revealed it could be used on aluminium too. And it actually left a decent finish.



    I then made two convex alu washers for the bolts that hold the carrying handle. These will sit on the inside of the tube to spread the load over a bigger area.
    The CF tube, courtesy of Klaus Helmerich, Germany, does have extra layers and foam core reinforcement at the top and side for these parts,
    but it's always nice to be on the safe side.



    Below is the two yoke mounts. These had to be concave, so I first made them to size in the lathe, drilled and tapped, then started with the belt sander, then lapped it on the tube itself.
    When I was finished with both, I realized I made the curve the wrong way in relation to the two bolts that will hold it on.
    I did follow the plan, but the plan was wrong... The issue was how the bolts would fit on the inside, so I had to start over again...
    Sometime later, I finally got them right with a good fit, so now I just need to anodize them.
    However, I do have to test fit all the parts to find the balance point before I actually install these on the tube.

    Edit: For the record, the bolts that hold the yoke mounts, won't use the washers above, they are only for the handle on top that will have all the weight on only two bolts, vs four for the yoke.







    Went on with carving out some of the core to get the flanges flush. Carved out a little extra for the tabs, and cut a hole in the CF for it.







    Then I glued the tabs on the flanges with epoxy since it's a metal to metal fit. The tabs are also threaded, (and thread matched with the flange)
    and will be secured with an extra long bolt that also holds the cover on.

    I then glued everything in the tube with transparent, MS Polymer adhesive/sealant as I mentioned in the post above. This particular type is called Tec7,
    a very popular brand here in Scandinavia. To get a good adhesive bead all the way around the flange, outer and inner, I also beveled it with a grinder and a coarse flap disc.



    This thing is NEVER coming out. All I need to do now is to install a thin neoprene gasket.

    Overall, I'm very pleased with how this worked out. It's always a challenge to fit removable panels to big tubes when you can't mill it out from one big piece of solid material.
    Especially here, where I couldn't have any parts protruding on the inside or outside of the tube.

    To wrap this post, here are pictures of the back cover and the business end.
    By the way, I drew these parts (and the flanges and spider) in Sketchup, sent the files to Lasermaster in the UK, and had the parts in the mail a few weeks later.
    Definitely, a service I will be using in the future.





    Next up is test fit the reflector, glass, and start removing some weight of the inverter.
    Last edited by PolarLi; 08-31-2018 at 06:12 PM.
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  13. #13
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Here is the double-sided AR coated, tempered glass with 98% light transmittance.
    If you don't see it, well, that the point. And when I put a small ordinary glass on top, and it's not hard to see the difference in reflection from a flashlight:





    I got a great deal on this at only $60 plus shipping from the UK. But before I found that deal, I had spent some time getting quotes from several companies around the world, and they all wanted from $250-500.
    This included cutting, then usually shipped out for AR coating, then back for tempering. Or I could skip the last part and go for more expensive borofloat.
    I believe some did it all in-house, but regardless, the one-off coating makes it very very expensive.
    This glass, however, is made by Schott and is called Conturan. And It's factory AR coated, mass produced and delivered in big sheets.
    So the glass shop just needs to cut it to size and temper it, an ordinary task.
    But this particular deal had one downside, especially for this project: I could only get it tempered in minimum 4mm thickness, so it is pretty heavy. 2.5-3mm would have been plenty strong for this.
    On the other hand, this glass is incredibly strong. Normally, tempered glass like this can take several direct hammer blows without problems.

    Removed the peel ply inside the tube, and put the reflector in some days ago. For this, I used red RTV silicone, the same stuff the reflector is bonded to the mounts with. Very flexible, so good shock absorbing and easy to work with. Also going to use it to bond the glass.





    Well, it looked good. But the RTV I used, Loctite 5399, had seemingly deteriorated at 6 months in an opened cartridge, so it never cured fully, so that was a fail. Easy enough to remove, but now I need to wait over the weekend to get a new cartridge. Oh well, never a build like this without a few setbacks.

    I've got lux in different area codes.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    PolarLi,
    RTV silicone sealants require moisture for cure. When they die, they harden in the tube. If the sealant wasn't curing, good chance it was contaminated with a sulfur compound. Paper backed masking tape can cause this problem.

    If you want to speed the cure, take a spray bottle with water and spray the surface. Also being a RTV product, it cures from the outside to the inside, so thick cross sections will take a week or more for full cure on a 1/4" thick sample.

    What's typically done with RTV sealants is to smooth them with a mix of water and a little dish wash detergent. This also aides in cure.
    Those that can, do. Those that can't, teach.

  15. #15
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Hmm, you mentioned contaminants, and one thing did cross my mind. The aluminium was cleaned properly with acetone. And no masking tape was used. But I did not touch the CF under the peel ply. I assumed it left a perfectly clean surface, but maybe there was some kind of non-stick stuff left?

    I was aware the RTV need moisture, and also that too high humidity apparently can cause the surface to cure too fast, and delay the process. But in this case, both temp and humidity were normal, around 22C and 50% and the bead was only about 4-5 mm on the thickest parts and faded out to zero. But everything had the consistency of chewing gum after 3 days. Never seen anything like it before.

    When I applied it, the consistency and odor seemed normal. It also skinned at the normal rate, after 5-10 minutes.

    But there was another possible thing that I did recall about the storage. During a heat wave earlier this summer, the RTV was stored in a very hot room for a couple of days, probably around 35C. I'm wondering if that potentially could have damaged it? The datasheet does warn about storage over 28C.

    Anyhow, I still have plenty of the same RTV left, so I'm going to make some test beads on a piece of wood right now, just to see if that cure, to rule out potential problems with the CF surface.

    Thanks for the input, I appreciate it!
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    PolarLi,

    Some epoxies (paste adhesives and paints with high un-reacted amine content) will retard the cure of RTV products. I wouldn't use wood as your test substrate. Use a piece of aluminum foil or some plastic sheet.

    I the aerospace community, RTV106 is heavily used for heat resistance and environmental sealing. The substrates being sealed range from simple aluminum bonded assemblies fabricated from sheet aluminum and aluminum core. There is an environmental sealant that is a very dense epoxy used to close out the core and keep the edges from being crushed. The epoxy used was found to cause the RTV to not cure, so a barrier epoxy was painted on the surface then the RTV application.

    Graphite reinforced composites and the peel ply aren't or shouldn't be a problem. Silicone mold releases used prior to the peel ply application if they bleed through will increase the adhesion of RTV products. The rubber adhesive in masking tape is a large cause of failure to cure issues. Standard cure schedules of 77F and 50% humidity should rule out environmental causes.

    I looked the the technical data sheet for the Loctite 5399, http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/Sh...EN&plant=WERCS and they (Henkel Loctite) list full cure of 33A durometer hardness after 7 days at lab conditions. I'd give the sealant longer to cure. If still gooey after a week, try another tube with known good storage conditions.
    Those that can, do. Those that can't, teach.

  17. #17
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Thanks NoNotAgain, you are a wealth of knowledge!
    I just did another test on aluminium foil just to be sure. Made a few different sized beads. I will update later with the results.
    Now I just cross my fingers for a fail there too, so I know for sure the problem was the silicone, and not the epoxy used in the tube. If I have to switch to the MS polymer or a different sealant, it won't be that fun to get rid of absolute all traces of silicone in the coarse CF surface.
    Last edited by PolarLi; 09-08-2018 at 03:00 PM.
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    If by chance you've got to remove the sealant entirely, if you have access to MEK and some plastic film (freezer bags), tape some paper towels over the sealant, then saturate the towels with the solvent, cover with the plastic film. Silicone sealants have extremely poor resistance to MEK. Acetone will work in a pinch, but MEK works much quicker.
    Do this outside as the MEK stinks, bad.
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  19. #19
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    So I'm happy to observe that the Silicone I used was the problem and nothing else. After 4 days, I'm still able to smear out the test bead. Of course, no shops around here had silicone with similar specs, so I had to order in a fresh cartridge.
    I could have used a different sealant/adhesive for the reflector, but I would have needed silicone for the glass anyway. Btw, Thanks for the MEK tip, but I picked up some silicone remover from a paint shop.



    Also ordered in a couple of heatsinks to the inverter.
    I will be installing a new one on the input stage and adding one on the output stage. By removing the case that partly acts as a (poor) heatsink, I got the weight down from 2480 gram to 1228 gram.
    The new heatsinks and fan will add a little bit of weight, but I'm pretty sure it will give me better cooling than stock, or at least, just as good. I'm only pulling about 600 watts from it anyway, making it run on max efficiency.



    Last edited by PolarLi; 09-11-2018 at 03:28 PM.
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  20. #20

    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    I love your projects and can't wait for news ;-)

    Especially you are working with short arc and UHP lamps like me...

    Where did you get the reflector? I just know Phoenix and optiforms. Unfortunately they are in the US. Do you know a company here in Europe?

  21. #21
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Thanks, and it's great to see a new short arc guy here, although I see you joined the forum in 2008!
    This reflector is from Phoenix. And I know of one company in Denmark, millpondoptics, that can make custom reflectors. But I got quoted 4000 euro for a 2"... Other than that, I'm not aware of anyone in Europe that has bigger standard reflectors like this on the shelf, and is selling to private customers, except various searchlight companies that sell spare reflectors for their marine searchlights. But they usually come from either Phoenix or Optiforms, and the price is about double.
    Last edited by PolarLi; 09-12-2018 at 11:44 AM.
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  22. #22
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Finally, the reflector is in for the second time, and now the silicone cured properly without any problems

    When I had the reflector out, I thought of something I didn't think of the first time regarding the cooling system. So the plan has always been to let air in the two bottom holes in the reflector mount, and suck it out in the top one, and out the vertex hole around the lamp. But to force the airflow coming in at the bottom all the way to the front of the reflector, so the airflow didn't take the shortcut behind the rim, I made these two air baffles of thin fiberglass sheet.





    Also did another job on the cooling system, and that was to make an adapter to the air ducting I will be using to suck out as much hot air without it simply swirling around inside the tube. Because the tube is double layer CF, it has close to zero heat transfer, so all the heat has to come out the back (and front)

    Because the hole in the reflector mount is both smaller than the air ducting, and is half moon shape, I had to make this adapter.

    Made the mold of styrofoam, and put on a few layers of fiberglass using epoxy.
    Demolding was done with acetone that melted the styrofoam. Somewhat effective, but it didn't remove all traces, so it took quite a bit of work to get everything out. Ok for a one-off, small part like this, but I will probably look into more professional ways of doing it next time.










    Installed the two new heatsinks on the inverter. The one on the output transistors looks to be a little on the small side, but I will glue on a thermocouple and see what temps I get first.
    The input heatsink has it's own thermocouple and is at least as good as the stock one. Total weight ended up at 1301 gram.





    Drilled holes for cooling fans and a couple of fuse holders in the back plate, and wet sanded all the external alu parts.
    I will be shipping this out tomorrow for anodizing.


    I've got lux in different area codes.

  23. #23
    Flashaholic* The_Driver's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    I'm starting to get fat from all the popcorn I've been eating

  24. #24
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Yeah, sorry for that Well, update is coming real soon. In the meantime, I can reveal why I made the cavity in the front spider. Make room for this:

    Last edited by PolarLi; 10-24-2018 at 07:24 AM.
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  25. #25

    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Yeah man, good to see you and new project ))
    I really hope this subforum would run on such a things!

  26. #26
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    So I received the parts from the anodizing company eloksal.no looking real nice, and I also got an epic deal from them, so big thanks! One of the things I sent in, was the nameplate seen above.
    The other part of it is just a round aluminium disc I polished.


    The big question was how to fasten this to the narrow spokes, and have the option of easy removal to access the bolt under it. I ended up with drilling and tapping tiny M2 threads to remove as little material as possible.
    I then beveled the outer ring of the spider with an angle grinder (before the anodizing) and have now installed it with some silicone.



    A picture of the lamp holder(s) I made these earlier this year.
    I used high temp, nickel plated ring terminals on the hot end of the cable.



    To install the PSU and Inverter, I used 1.5mm thick Aluminium strips that I bent to fit the tube. For testing, I will only use screws to mount them, but I will use some silicone here too for a more permanent bond. If I need to remove it, It's very easy to cut with piano wire.





    A picture of the battery mount. These will also be secured to the tube with silicone. I will also pad the aluminium angles with some neoprene. I cut 2 slots in each and installed Turnigy velcro straps to hold the battery in.





    A picture of the glass install. I used PTFE strips to get even thickness on the silicone:



    Below is the lamp cooling shroud. Doesn't look like much, but a lot of time went into this part. Also had to do some adjustments on it after install. It's made from fiberglass sheet, that I put together in the corners with more fiberglass and epoxy. Also had to make a mold for that. Two small aluminum angles were installed to hold it to the reflector. Had to drill and tap matching holes in the reflector mount. The ducting adapter had to be cut both in width and length, rubber grommet for the high voltage cable installed and so on. (The white triangle is the adjustable lamp holder made from PTFE)







    For the duct adapter on the exhaust fans, I took the easy way, had them 3D printed!



    Intake fans were a little bigger, so I had to trim a corner. For the record, there will be done more work on the backplate. Water repellent prefilter installed, and possibly some carbon fiber sheet to cover up some of the vent openings to get the right airflow.



    Install of the front neoprene gasket.



    Fiberglass sleeve on the anode cable. This one will be hot...



    Igniter is in beside the battery.



    Latest news, just a couple of hours ago I finished putting the main components in the tube and temporary wire it for a test fire. I switch on the battery, and the inverter and PSU fire up. I add the control power to the PSU that will switch on the lamp, I get the "click" I see the lamp flash, and everything goes dead. The BMS app tells me there is a short circuit and has cut the power. I reset and try again, and the exact same thing happens again. I disconnect the battery and inverter but leave the BMS switched on, and power the PSU from the mains. Add the control power, and "click" I have light, full power! But while I do this, I keep my eye on the suspect, the BMS (app) and sure enough, overvoltage messages flash on the screen. Ahhh, the joy of Arc lamps I won't do any more testing tonight, it's been a long day... But it's pretty clear that the BMS can't handle being so close to the igniter or lamp, and I need to shield it from the ignition pulse or move it. All tips are very welcome! Worst case scenario, I need to swap it with an analog BMS. When I did the testing outside the tube, everything worked flawlessly. The carbon tube itself could also be a part of the EMI problem here.

    Last edited by PolarLi; 10-24-2018 at 04:53 PM.
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  27. #27
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Thanks Alrom!
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  28. #28

    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Could it be the high inrush current when starting thatís causing it? Might need some caps at the BMS output side to handle the spike or a BMS with higher output rating. I think I read somewhere that on my maxabeam it pulls 23A for some ms at power-on but it doesnít pull more than 7A on high setting. This Would be way higher with yours.

  29. #29
    Flashaholic PolarLi's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Thanks for the tip! But I think the inverter would kneel before the BMS. The testing (post #3) revealed both handled the starting current fine. However, you did actually remind me of the most basic thing that I somehow forgot I can adjust current and protection parameters in the BMS software, so I just pulled the pack, hooked it up to the computer and saw the short circuit delay was set to only 8 ms. So I increased that a bit and hooked it up, and voila, it fired right up! I'm so relieved! I guess the Smart BMS is smart after all, but it can't do anything with the user I also hooked up the ground wires on the inverter and PSU and also twisted the power cables for good measure. Still a little worried about the overvoltage message I got yesterday when the pack wasn't hooked up. So there is a small charge induced in the wires from the igniter, but when it is hooked up, it has a load, and I guess it just bleeds off.

    Edit, I had no fans hooked up during the 5-8 seconds I had the lamp on. And I obviously had no time to take any pictures. But I after I cut the power, I tried out my new toy, a thermal camera. So I took a picture of the wall, 5 meter from the light, and the hotspot had created over 30C from those few seconds burn time... And this was like 30 seconds after I had turned the light off



    A picture of the reflector about 60 seconds after. The lamp is not focused at all, so the pattern is pretty uneven.



    Also took a picture earlier today in daylight of the reflector finally revealed:
    Last edited by PolarLi; 10-25-2018 at 01:02 PM.
    I've got lux in different area codes.

  30. #30
    Flashaholic* The_Driver's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1?? Mcd Xenon Flashlight Project - BFF

    Thank for your detailed posts! To me this project is already unbelievably awesome! I love it. A custom, carbon fibre Xenon short-arc superthrower with modern tech all around!

    Please keep at it! I want to know and see every little detail! There are very few projects theses days where I am this enthusiastic.

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