So I bore a hole in a Surefire 6P

The body was already bored for 18mm when I got it but a bit on the tight side, it would not fit half the 18650s I had so I bored it until the cells would go in/out smooth, only to discovered one of the threads had caved in and did this:



Just a warning to others not to overbore it. Yet keeping within specs may mean *some* cells will not fit into it and you have to be selective about which brands you buy. I am not upset about the body, I never used it that much versus FiveMega bodies and lately MDX series but I am disappointed I spent 30 minutes with the 220 and then 400 grit sandpaper wrapped around a pencil.

Damn. Sorry to see , I am not keen on any boring full stop. I do have a few bored lights, but most sirefires are standard and run on 16650(almost as good with 2500mah). Looks like it was very close as is, one bad drop and it would have probably snapped. My work 6p has took a 20ft+ drop issue free(other than bezel bending in), standard body. I don't think a bored one would have survived it.

That sucks, ive bored 5 bodies doing the same method and know how long it takes. I noticed if i clamp the body down it bores un even so i hold it with a leather gloves and rotate it. My gauge is a 3400mah protected nitcore 18650 which is my fattest battery. What batteries do you have that dont fit?

Is this a common Result with this method?
Sandpaper and a pencil? Glad I have access to machine tools..

etc said:

I never used it that much versus FiveMega bodies

Click to expand...

Fivemega custom bodies have less deep o'ring grooves. So, not only thicker material left after boring, but more water resistance because of tighter o'ring sealing.
----------------------

Jose Marin said:

I noticed if i clamp the body down it bores un even so i hold it with a leather gloves and rotate it.

Click to expand...

Whatever you do, this method will result uneven boring size in front or rear of body.
Also may cause oval bore. So, lathe machining is better method.
----------------------

justanotherguy said:

Is this a common Result with this method?
Sandpaper and a pencil?

Click to expand...

Some people have seen the result after using flashlight for a while.
If no opening seen after machining, you don't realize how thin aluminum foil material left under groove and how may or may not survive a drop.

To reiterate, I bought the 6P body that was already bored to 18mm, by someone, don't remember who.

It was a bit tight, which is what I specified. So no one is to blame here. Certainly not the person who bored it. Certainly not SF as they don't make these lights to be bored.

Some of my cells would not fit and I took off a fraction of a MM. A fraction. Maybe 1/4 millimeter. That was enough to collapse it. I was shocked to be honest, still am.

I've had no issues with FiveMega bodies, which remain my favorite. If anything, they are a bit on the loose side, but not bad, this guarantees that all cells fit and come out easily. If you want a bit tight, put some tape on the battery and no more rattle. I have FiveMega 6Ps and also what you might call 12P and 9P.

I've had minor issues with Malkoff bodies. They are too tight. Again, half of my cells would not fit. EagleTac protected 18650, and EVVA brand would not fit either - not even after I removed the sticker to no avail.

I got the brand that did fit and lived with that for a while then decided to bore out two MD4 bodies and one MD3 that was bad. Thus far no collapses or interesting fireworks. I got latest-greatest Panasonic 18500 of 2000mAh and they would not fit at all in the MD3 body. Not even 1/4". So I spent an hour boring the MD3 and I only need to take off again a fraction of a millimeter. Not 2mm that you need in a 16mm body.

So no, you don't need a lathe or a machine, it's pretty much 20 minutes of work.

And yes, I consistently turned the body every few seconds to ensure an even bore.

Mental note:

Don't bore Surefire bodies. If you run protected 3500mAh. I've had no issues with 3400 and down, they are apparently smaller.

No issues with 2900mAh and 3100mAh cells either. Some 3500mAh cells are out of spec.

apparently the SF 6P is paper thin in the thread area when bored to 18mm. I've read about 10 years ago but did not believe it until I saw it.

I've read other such horror stories but this is the first time I've seen an O-ring groove breached by fine grit sand paper. It's probably wise to use 16mm cells in hosts that were designed for them and to save the 18mm cells for factory ~18mm tubes. If the battery is too fat, find a thinner one. On a side note, I've had no fitment issues with 2000 mAh 18500's in my MD3.

Hey etc, maybe you can salvage the holed body and have someone machine new threads so a 18500 will fit?

RobertMM said:

Hey etc, maybe you can salvage the holed body and have someone machine new threads so a 18500 will fit?

Click to expand...

Awesome idea!!!

That is a great idea. The final product might even be one of a kind. Unless my information is out of date, I think Martin D White might be your guy.

Modernflame said:

I've read other such horror stories but this is the first time I've seen an O-ring groove breached by fine grit sand paper. It's probably wise to use 16mm cells in hosts that were designed for them and to save the 18mm cells for factory ~18mm tubes. If the battery is too fat, find a thinner one. On a side note, I've had no fitment issues with 2000 mAh 18500's in my MD3.

Click to expand...

Maybe we are not using the same 2000mAh cells then.

I have a pic posted in the battery section. They are panny's protected, the 2000mAh version. I don't know whose PCB is on them. They would not go in at all. I polished the insides of the MD3 for half an hour first with 220 grit and then 400 grit. Now these are very fine sandpaper versions, they do not take off very much at all. Not like 100 grit. 1/3 to 1/2 of a mil was enough to make the difference. I need to get that measuring device and see how thick the area is in the threads area.

A bored 6P is paper thin. It was an educational experience that I do not regret. I wasn't using it anyway that often.

I was just shocked. That's all.

If you want it, you can have it. I am not going to pay someone $50 to create another body out of it when I can just buy one for less. These 6P (unbored) bodies are everywhere and worthless.

edit: I heard that earlier versions of MDx bodies where tighter. I have had one MD4 that needed a lot of work also and MD4 that needed just 2 minutes of polishing, they seemed different. Two new MD2 that needed no work at all.

Modernflame said:

That is a great idea. The final product might even be one of a kind. Unless my information is out of date, I think Martin D White might be your guy.

Click to expand...

How much will that cost me?


FiveMega makes 1x18500 bodies for what, around $40 or such?

I was thinking if it had any kind of sentimental value of such, also i get attached and could not throw it away.....................but then i am a flashaholic . Yes 5mega makes sense for sure at that pricing..........

6p bodies are awesome!!! I love mine anyway, fed on 16650 they are a tank or tank enough for my uses. Granted bored takes some strength away, but if done right, its strong enough for most people and what they can throw at it .

I was thinking along the same lines, Ven. A cut down Surefire 6P would be unique and fun to show off, although I think you'd have to call it a 4.5P.

Some things are priceless mr flame, yes they may cost us money. But be them gifts or special mods, made by vinh, custom LED choices by Hogo. Sending parts out to Tarik, E2e off our friend mr fixer...............all priceless to me. Now a 6p or z2 maybe worth $40 + with the 6p, -$140 in the z2 case. Yet both are worth more to me than i would sell for. Thats not including engines..............tail cap tweaks, quads etc etc or what ever floats ones boat. At times i do wish i could be a minimalist, damn my life would be far more simple. I am who i am, i must have 5 or 6 6p's. Do i need them .............nope! Would i sell one.........NO WAY! .

The 3p is very desirable, a cut down 6p for 18350 or 18500 would be your own special light. Some people drop $4000, heck $8000..............seen over $15,000 on an auction for a special hanko. I dont have that cash, even if i did, i could not anyway(i digress). So for me, spending up to $100 to make my special 4.5p would not be a problem personally to justify. But i would have to have a plan/use in mind for it.......just my opinion, all different and many more sensible!

It is a generic throw away 6p body.
Ebay is full of that junk.
Well, boring it added some value, that is until I made a hole in it.

etc said:

It is a generic throw away 6p body.
Ebay is full of that junk.
Well, boring it added some value, that is until I made a hole in it.

Click to expand...

You live an exciting life.

Chris