True lumens vs turbo mode need help..

Sodank

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Sorry guys I'm a bit confused and need some help. I recently lost/ misplaced/had stolen my sure fire P2xfury.. I loved that light but it's gone so I figured I'd upgrade. I use the light for hunting and I saw the duel fuel with 1500 lumens and as much as I like the output I prefer the low high mode. So I started looking at other brands and I found the Olight mr2.. but it says drop off after 3 min to lower lumens.. so few questions.. one.. is that permanent meaning every charge you get 3 min burst mode.. or is that runs for 3 min then cools down and you can re burst mode.. two is the sure fire a full time 1500 lumens until the battery is dead.. and three.. can anyone recommend a light with duel settings at a full high output that fits the same size shape and tail cap as the surefire.. I've been researching for two days and I'm dizzy.. thanks in advance I know this is a lot!!
 

adnj

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The Surefire starts at rated output and then tapers down. But Surefire typically understates their output.

Edit: I believe that the P2X Fury output was 500 lumens and was later increased to 600. Actual output is about 650 lumens for the first 30 minutes or so.
 
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Sodank

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The Surefire starts at rated output and then tapers down. But Surefire typically understates their output.

Edit: I believe that the P2X Fury output was 500 lumens and was later increased to 600. Actual output is about 650 lumens for the first 30 minutes or so.

I noticed it was very battery dependant.. the surefire brand didn't last as long but ran strong until it was about to die where say an energizer gave a short period of full strength but had more life to them.. I just don't get how the 1500 lumen fury will handle the heat with the same size frame.. the p2x got plenty hot if I ran it long enough..
 

peter yetman

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Have a look at a Malkoff Hound Dog. It's 900Lm and holds that until the cells give out. Depending on the tube used (3 cells or 4) it's longer than the P2X, but overall a much better light for my uses, and Malkoffs after sales is second to none.
They also do a 18650 Hound, but the output drops slowly over the life of the cell. I like it, but you may prefer a normally regulated light.
Oh, forgot to say both have a Hi/Lo facility which is done by twisting the the head. and they come in a neutral Ct as well.
P
 

Sodank

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Have a look at a Malkoff Hound Dog. It's 900Lm and holds that until the cells give out. Depending on the tube used (3 cells or 4) it's longer than the P2X, but overall a much better light for my uses, and Malkoffs after sales is second to none.
They also do a 18650 Hound, but the output drops slowly over the life of the cell. I like it, but you may prefer a normally regulated light.
Oh, forgot to say both have a Hi/Lo facility which is done by twisting the the head. and they come in a neutral Ct as well.
P

awesome.. I'll take a look! I was also looking at the stream light protac 1000 lumen.. I've never owned anything but surefire..
 

Modernflame

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To answer your other question, most lights with "turbo mode" are regulated either by temperature or a timer. If the former, then ambient temperature will affect how long the light can sustain turbo. If the latter, then usually cycling the light off and then on again will restore the turbo setting, at least for a while. I believe the P2X and P3X Fury lights were designed this way. The output declines sharply after a couple of minutes.

The Hound Dog is a fine choice. The XML version is regulated so that its maximum output remains constant throughout the life of the batteries. It will run hot, though, especially in the summer time. Depending on where you live, winter temperatures outdoors will prevent the Hound Dog from overheating. It's also as tough as a bag of hammers, if that is important to you.
 

idleprocess

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As a general rule in the last ~5 years, any light that is vaguely pocket-able can't sustain a "turbo" output for long. This is a consequence of more power being delivered to the LED(s) than compact sizes can deliver. This is true of minuscule 10440 AAA light and even "beer can" quad 18650 lights - there's just not enough thermal mass nor heat exchange potential with the air to keep the LEDs and driver within safe temperatures. I personally just accept this limitation for what it is - physics meets practical materials science - and assume that smaller lights can only sustain medium outputs with that advertised 'burst' or 'turbo' being a short-use bonus mode; this fits into how I tend to use multi-output lights anyway.
 
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adnj

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^^ Agreed. 1500 (or more) lumens is great when spotting down the road at 200 yards. I don't need or want that much when I'm in a crawl space.
 

Bazar

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hunting and I saw the duel fuel with 1500 lumens and as much as I like the output I prefer the low high mode. So I started looking at other brands and I found the Olight mr2.. but it says drop off after 3 min to lower lumens.. so few questions.. one.. is that permanent meaning every charge you get 3 min burst mode.. or is that runs for 3 min then cools down and you can re burst mode.. two is the sure fire a full time 1500 lumens until the battery is dead.. and three.. can anyone recommend a light with duel settings at a full high output that fits the same size shape and tail cap as the surefire..
PPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPSurefire often has a very reliable "tailcap failsafe switch" which means if your tailcap switch breaks (like my OlightM2x did) the light can still be activated by a turn of the tailcap..... . . . .. . . . .. . . . .. . . . .. . . . .. . . . . .. .That isn't so with olight.Olight, fenix, acebeam, nitecore are all a curtain reliability of light, very good, but Elzetta, Surefire, Streamlight and maybe a couple others are simply better in the reliability department. ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// . Just sayin.
 
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Sodank

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PPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPSurefire often has a very reliable "tailcap failsafe switch" which means if your tailcap switch breaks (like my OlightM2x did) the light can still be activated by a turn of the tailcap..... . . . .. . . . .. . . . .. . . . .. . . . .. . . . . .. .That isn't so with olight.Olight, fenix, acebeam, nitecore are all a curtain reliability of light, very good, but Elzetta, Surefire, Streamlight and maybe a couple others are simply better in the reliability department. ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// ///////// . Just sayin.

So I usually use my surefire headlamp and then go to my flashlight if I'm coming out of deep woods or searching.. I was looking at the duel fuel 1500 sure fire.. but I literally read two goodv reveiws and two bad.. Would anyone recommend this light or what would be comparable..
 

Sodank

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So I usually use my surefire headlamp and then go to my flashlight if I'm coming out of deep woods or searching.. I was looking at the duel fuel 1500 sure fire.. but I literally read two goodv reveiws and two bad.. Would anyone recommend this light or what would be comparable..

klarus xt11gt vs xt12gt. this is another light I was comparing to the surefire dft
 

Bazar

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klarus xt11gt vs xt12gt. this is another light I was comparing to the surefire dft

Listen, in all legitimate terms, any 2017 Fenix, surefire, Olight, Acebeam, Zebralight, Klarus, Nitecore, streamlight, will do you great justice with your lighting needs. For wants or critical use you should carry 2 because failure is always, always a possibility (unless you have an elzetta, then it won't fail ;) and slightly less proven but probably still great grants are: wowtac, lumentop, Emisar, Thorfire, eagtac, etc. Any flashlight I didn't mean in of hundred brands might be more or less reliable.

What I'm saying is technology has reached a point where it is tough to go wrong.

Specific details are very important. Using a icecube I got the Emisar D4 to run for 30 minutes, stepping down only because of battery power and it took that long to go from max of about 3,300 to 2,000 lumens.

Max mode runtime has a lot to do with your treatment of the light, so hold onto the center of the driver and head of the light as tight as you can to reduce heat, make sure you hold it like that from turn on, even when it isn't hot.

You will rarely need the max output of most modern lights, whilst it helps to know which one is superior in technology used, it is less important than tint, beam pattern, and user interface which believe me once you use what you like you will know.
 

Sodank

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Oct 10, 2012
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Listen, in all legitimate terms, any 2017 Fenix, surefire, Olight, Acebeam, Zebralight, Klarus, Nitecore, streamlight, will do you great justice with your lighting needs. For wants or critical use you should carry 2 because failure is always, always a possibility (unless you have an elzetta, then it won't fail ;) and slightly less proven but probably still great grants are: wowtac, lumentop, Emisar, Thorfire, eagtac, etc. Any flashlight I didn't mean in of hundred brands might be more or less reliable.

What I'm saying is technology has reached a point where it is tough to go wrong.

Specific details are very important. Using a icecube I got the Emisar D4 to run for 30 minutes, stepping down only because of battery power and it took that long to go from max of about 3,300 to 2,000 lumens.

Max mode runtime has a lot to do with your treatment of the light, so hold onto the center of the driver and head of the light as tight as you can to reduce heat, make sure you hold it like that from turn on, even when it isn't hot.

You will rarely need the max output of most modern lights, whilst it helps to know which one is superior in technology used, it is less important than tint, beam pattern, and user interface which believe me once you use what you like you will know.

Got ya... thanks...
 
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