2 different types of E2C adapters - problem with one

I have a SF lego consisting of an E2L-AA body & tailcap, with a Lumens Factory E2C adapter, and a Z44 bezel hosting a Malkoff M31L. Works fine. I tried to replace the LF E2C adapter with a Vital Gear adapter. The VG adapter is more aggressively textured, and sometimes it can be inconvenient trying to remove the LF adapter when it is really snugged down, since the sides are tapered and smooth.

Anyway, when I replaced the LF E2C with the VG E2C, the light doesn't work. The tailcap is not the problem. I tested both without the bezel, by placing the Malkoff in the adapter, pushing the module down all the way against the batteries, and turning it on. The LF works, the VG doesn't. The LF adapter is not anodized on the inside, but the VG adapter is anodized everywhere. Has anyone else experienced this problem? All suggestions welcomed. Thank you!

That's interesting...i have both and work great. On the other hand, i have issues with my LF M2C but that's a different subject.

Have you tried stretching the M31 spring a bit?

There are negative-contact springs for this exact purpose. They make a direct connection between the negative terminal of the drop-in (i.e. the outer shell) and the end of the battery tube, so the E2C adapter doesn't need to provide an electrical pathway.

bykfixer said:

Have you tried stretching the M31 spring a bit?

Click to expand...

I have stretched the spring a bit, but I will try stretching it more.

Thank you all for your input!

novice said:

I have stretched the spring a bit, but I will try stretching it more.

Thank you all for your input!

Click to expand...

if the negative end is not making contact, E.g. body of the m31 is not touching the body of the light, stretching m31 spring alone will not help. As Frystormer stated, you'll need a negative contact spring to fix this. I don't know where to get this spring though.

Good luck.

I had a similar problem with my e2e e to c adapter.i had to remove some residual anodizing on the battery tube side of the adapter to provide a good negative electrical path. I used 1000 grit sandpaper and finished with 2500 grit. You don't want to remove any metal, just the anodizing.

i have some leftover springs from SF lamp assemblies. I will try one of those. Thanks for the warning about not removing metal. Thank you all for the help; I have not had a chance to try these ideas yet.

Just wanted to check back in. I had a non-SF non-tapered brass coil spring that I picked up somewhere. It had just the right diameter to fit inside the Vital Gear E2C, and make contact with the base of the Malkoff drop-in. The left-over SF P60 spring had too large an external diameter to fit inside of the Vital Gear E2C. Anyway, the unknown-source brass coil spring worked perfectly. Yea! I'm going to take that bezel configuration to the local hardware store, and see if I can find another one, so I can test it with another Z44 with a UV drop-in and Vital Gear E2C, on an FM 2x18650 E-head, once I get some decent paper currency. Once again, I would like to thank everyone here who offered advice. I am extremely grateful to Lumens Factory for the legacy design SF support that they offer (just got several of their lanyard rings), but the Vital Gear E2C adapter is, for me, much easier to tighten and loosen.