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Thread: HDS Systems EDC #22

  1. #1561
    Flashaholic* lion504's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    I’m wondering whether the purported Rotary issues are pre post 1670 from the HDS Systems EDC#21 thread. I bought my Rotary afterwards and it’s been buttery smooth.
    “Experts” are wrong about half the time. [My_Lights]

  2. #1562
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Found an interesting comparison between the following lights (actually I found this a couple of years ago, and if I recall it was one of the reasons I ended up purchasing a HDS light):

    HDS T1B-200 (Tactical Clicky) 200 lumens
    Surefire EB1 300 lumens
    Surefire X300 500 lumens

    https://kusemonotactical.sakura.ne.j...fireeb1backup/

    The photo text says that the furthest sign is 200m, if you click the photo to enlarge, then right click and open in new tab you can see full size with more detail.

    There doesn't seem to be much of a difference to me, however the HDS would have the longest runtime. Just evidence that rated lumens don't mean all that much in real life.

  3. #1563

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Bright wide beams for use in conjunction with hole punchers isn't new. I worked with Milkyspit back in 2009 and we developed the Room Sweeper... a Surefire e1e that pushed 650+ lumens at the time and was pure flood. It became a very popular mod back then. Run time was crap but it was enough to clear a big home. I used that light on duty for quite awhile. Went on to make the Shotgun Sweeper a few months later which had a pretty large hot spot and a ton of spill, obviously for mounting on a shotgun.

    As far as Rotary tail issues... most of the issues are with folks OCD... not performance or reliability. "Feels gritty" or "I can hear the clicks" is NOT a reliability issue... it's a preference that people have MADE into an issue. I don't understand the noise thing... are people sneaking up on blind people with their lights?

    Either way the percentage of actual Rotary tail failures is dismally small. 99.9% of actual HDS failures are in the head... not the tail. And even the Rotary tail failures that we see do not prevent the light from working as a Clicky. In other words, it isn't a catastrophic failure that stops the light from working. This doesn't stop Henry from continually working on the Rotary tail. He is doing it now... again. One also has to keep in mind that the Rotary tail has changed several times, and there isn't a way of the end user knowing which version tail internals are in there... and some of this is going to change going forward... I'm making sure of that.

    Another thing to bear in mind is that there are vastly different expectations from people, and folks have to understand the underlying HDS philosophy.... If the light dies, you die. So a rotary tail that stops functioning, or starts funky functioning but continues on working as a clicky.... while not a good thing, won't kill you in a cave... or wherever it is vital you can see what you are doing. If you only go by catastrophic failure of a tail... it's even.

    What the Executive style tail gives you over the Rotary style tail is the end user being able to switch between a raised or flush button themselves. Anyone taking the Rotary tail apart is a dumb-ass (I am in that category... I am a dumb-ass). After 2 years at HDS, Henry still does not allow me to do final assembly on a Rotary tail... that should say something (perhaps that I am a dumb-ass), but it is easy to mess up when it is apart... not so much when it is together... and it is very easy to tell when someone took it apart...

    Adding up all Clicky style tail sales and Rotary style sales, it is about 14% Clicky, with the majority of those sales being to new customers... not repeat customers... and while I am guessing here, it is probably people wanting to get into HDS lights but spend the minimum amount without hitting the used market, as the vast majority are for the EDC Executive 250.
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  4. #1564
    *Flashaholic* kaichu dento's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Quote Originally Posted by Hogokansatsukan View Post
    As far as Rotary tail issues... most of the issues are with folks OCD... not performance or reliability. "Feels gritty" or "I can hear the clicks" is NOT a reliability issue... it's a preference that people have MADE into an issue.

    Either way the percentage of actual Rotary tail failures is dismally small. 99.9% of actual HDS failures are in the head...
    Nicely put, virtually all failures are in the head of either the light, or the user, but even then the light still works.
    Marduke - Solitaire...I've seen matches which are brighter AND have a longer runtime. 光陰矢の如し

  5. #1565
    Flashaholic* lion504's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    There’s a new HDS thread in the LED subforum. A lot of answers over here, especially stats about warranty service.
    Last edited by lion504; 04-05-2020 at 06:36 AM.
    “Experts” are wrong about half the time. [My_Lights]

  6. #1566

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Some Beam shots of Clickies to show tint difference.
    Left to Right:
    1. hcri 180lm NB35
    2. hcri 170N 4700k?
    3. hcri NC57 200lm
    4. Executive 200, with swapped xpg2 ~5000k ( not bad cri, seems very close to 170N emitter but with best throw out the four ).

    To my eyes 170N has the most accurate color interpretation of the particular walls and floor, from when I see them in a day light.[/IMG]
    Last edited by Seattle Sparky; 04-06-2020 at 12:59 AM.

  7. #1567
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Today I received my new-to-me Ti Clicky 10002 from TheJlew85. I've wanted one forever, but never seen one in person. The knurling is great. The tiny hotspot of the 170 lm Golden Dragon is nice along with what seems to me to be perfectly even spill. Now I need to decide if/what it should be upgraded to. SS40?

  8. #1568
    Flashaholic* lion504's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Quote Originally Posted by Seattle Sparky View Post
    Some Beam shots of Clickies to show tint difference.
    Love it, especially the left two. Reminds me of one I posted a while ago.
    “Experts” are wrong about half the time. [My_Lights]

  9. #1569

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Quote Originally Posted by lion504 View Post
    Love it, especially the left two. Reminds me of one I posted a while ago.
    Yeah, the 3500k is really nice to use in the evening hours. 170N makes colors most natural. High noon however is just pure white, making objects stand out to maximum level.

  10. #1570
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Quote Originally Posted by tyu View Post
    Now I need to decide if/what it should be upgraded to. SS40?
    In my opinion the Ti Clicky is a piece of history. The GD LED is a really good LED the color / tint is very nice. I would keep it like it is.
    Still looking for Surefire G2 in Orange.
    If you have one you don't like please PM me.

  11. #1571
    *Flashaholic* kaichu dento's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Quote Originally Posted by tyu View Post
    Today I received my new-to-me Ti Clicky 10002 from TheJlew85. I've wanted one forever, but never seen one in person. The knurling is great. The tiny hotspot of the 170 lm Golden Dragon is nice along with what seems to me to be perfectly even spill. Now I need to decide if/what it should be upgraded to. SS40?
    You'll never see finer knurling than what was on the Ti Clicky run! Enjoy and treasure that light! No need to upgrade the Golden Dragon if you're liking it. It was my throwiest Ra light and if I had one now I'd probably just adjust the tint with a -green Lee filter.
    Marduke - Solitaire...I've seen matches which are brighter AND have a longer runtime. 光陰矢の如し

  12. #1572
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Quote Originally Posted by WarriorOfLight View Post
    In my opinion the Ti Clicky is a piece of history. The GD LED is a really good LED the color / tint is very nice. I would keep it like it is.
    Agree same reason I have never upgraded my Ti PD from McGizmo. Keep it classic, like a muscle car.
    In no order: HDS/Malkoff/OVEREADY/McGizmo/Sky Lumen -PSM

  13. #1573
    Flashaholic Stoneking's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    I’m liking this look!
    http://i.imgur.com/T14BkgK.jpeg
    4500k XPL RD BOSS • 2700k HDS Rotary • Ra-85-Tr • UV 365nm HDS Rotary • 3900k HDS • SW45 HDS (Bare Al) Rotary • FreLux Synergy2 •

  14. #1574
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Quote Originally Posted by Stoneking View Post
    I’m liking this look!
    http://i.imgur.com/T14BkgK.jpeg
    HDS Smoothie
    In no order: HDS/Malkoff/OVEREADY/McGizmo/Sky Lumen -PSM

  15. #1575

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Quote Originally Posted by Stoneking View Post
    I’m liking this look!
    http://i.imgur.com/T14BkgK.jpeg

    I had an interest thread for these going in the group buy section. Still looking for more interest.

  16. #1576
    Flashaholic Stoneking's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Quote Originally Posted by TheJlew85 View Post
    I had an interest thread for these going in the group buy section. Still looking for more interest.
    I’m already on it.
    However this only took about 5-10 minutes to make.
    Probably more worth it to make your own.
    4500k XPL RD BOSS • 2700k HDS Rotary • Ra-85-Tr • UV 365nm HDS Rotary • 3900k HDS • SW45 HDS (Bare Al) Rotary • FreLux Synergy2 •

  17. #1577
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Does anyone know anything about this reflector? I bought this Clicky in 2011-ish, and it has a very fine texture; not orange peel, not smooth. None of my other HDS lights of that vintage have it, they all have orange peel. Was this a special run? Anyone else have one? What does this do to the beam?


  18. #1578
    Flashaholic* Slumber Pass's Avatar
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    Default HDS Systems EDC #22

    Quote Originally Posted by gravelrash View Post
    Does anyone know anything about this reflector? I bought this Clicky in 2011-ish, and it has a very fine texture; not orange peel, not smooth. None of my other HDS lights of that vintage have it, they all have orange peel. Was this a special run? Anyone else have one? What does this do to the beam? [/IMG]
    My first HDS had that reflector. It was an Executive 170 with a Golden Dragon LED. It was the first year lights with acme threads were released, probably 2011.
    It didn't throw as much as was typical for a golden dragon, but it smoothed out the transition from hot spot to spill. I don't believe it was a special run, just one of the many variations that have occurred with reflectors from batch to batch. This was also the year the first Cree LEDs were used in HDS, but I never saw this style of reflector in an XP-G 200.

  19. #1579
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Thank you for the info on that reflector!

  20. #1580
    Flashaholic d13avo's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Hi all, while on this lockdown I am thinking of actually getting around to installing some tritium tubes into my HDS bezel. Not done this before so has anyone who has attempted this got any recommendations, Do's & Don't's etc?

  21. #1581
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    The handling is quite easy. I use NOA61 to fill the slot.

    Place the trit, align the trit in the slot with a needle. I used a tooth stick to put the NOA in the trit slot. I put the tooth stick into the NOA61. Than moved to the trit slot. On the tooth stick should be a drop of NOA61.
    This will ne done a few times until the trit slot with the trit is colpletely filled. Also put a little bit more NOA in the slot, it shrinks a little bit during cure. To cure the NOA, use a UV light or Sunlight.
    After 10-15 minutes the NOA is cured in summer sunlight. With a good UV light it should go faster.

    Do this for wach trit slot until all are done. If you want wait an hour or a little bit more between processing the next slot, than the NOA is completely cured and hard like a rock.

    It it dies bot work at the first time and NOA is not only in the trit slot, remove the liqid NOA with a piece of toilet paper clean everything with ethanol or something similar and statt again.

    It is no problem to do this NOA handling in a normal room. The only thing is the NOA bottle should not be placed in the sun. You could put a small amount of NOA on a piece of printer paper. A few big drops that were moved from the bottle to the paper will laste for one trit slot.

    If there are additional questions feel free to ask...
    Still looking for Surefire G2 in Orange.
    If you have one you don't like please PM me.

  22. #1582
    Flashaholic d13avo's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Thankyou WarriorOfLight, I'll attempt this soon. The only question I have is would you put a small bit of NOA61 in the slot before you insert the trit tube so it sits on the liquid and not directly onto the metal or does this not make any difference?

    Quote Originally Posted by WarriorOfLight View Post
    The handling is quite easy. I use NOA61 to fill the slot.

    Place the trit, align the trit in the slot with a needle. I used a tooth stick to put the NOA in the trit slot. I put the tooth stick into the NOA61. Than moved to the trit slot. On the tooth stick should be a drop of NOA61.
    This will ne done a few times until the trit slot with the trit is colpletely filled. Also put a little bit more NOA in the slot, it shrinks a little bit during cure. To cure the NOA, use a UV light or Sunlight.
    After 10-15 minutes the NOA is cured in summer sunlight. With a good UV light it should go faster.

    Do this for wach trit slot until all are done. If you want wait an hour or a little bit more between processing the next slot, than the NOA is completely cured and hard like a rock.

    It it dies bot work at the first time and NOA is not only in the trit slot, remove the liqid NOA with a piece of toilet paper clean everything with ethanol or something similar and statt again.

    It is no problem to do this NOA handling in a normal room. The only thing is the NOA bottle should not be placed in the sun. You could put a small amount of NOA on a piece of printer paper. A few big drops that were moved from the bottle to the paper will laste for one trit slot.

    If there are additional questions feel free to ask...

  23. #1583

    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    61 is the best way to go, however, I've used clear nail polish also and have had great success. Seems to hold up well...have not lost a trit yet.

  24. #1584
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Quote Originally Posted by d13avo View Post
    Thankyou WarriorOfLight, I'll attempt this soon. The only question I have is would you put a small bit of NOA61 in the slot before you insert the trit tube so it sits on the liquid and not directly onto the metal or does this not make any difference?
    At first a little bit NOA61 in the trit slot, than place the trit in the slot (that is the easiest way to prevent air bubbles). I used than the needle to move the trit in the correct position (trit is really centered in the slot. Than I filled the slot completely with NOA61 in the way I described.
    Still looking for Surefire G2 in Orange.
    If you have one you don't like please PM me.

  25. #1585
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Are there any experiences of how long (years) the rubber switch of a rotary with a flush button survives until I can send the lamp to Tucson?

  26. #1586
    Flashaholic d13avo's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    When I put a bit of extra NAO61 in as you state it shrinks a bit after curing, should any surplus be wiped clean before curing or can it be removed after? Or if you do get some on the bezel before curing is it worth cleaning and starting from fresh or just wipe clean the excess off? Cheers

  27. #1587
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    The best is all NOA is only in the trit slot. When I was clumsy and some NOA61 was beside the trit slot I cleaned up everything and started from the begin.
    The aim is that you only put NOA in the trit slot. You can put a little bit more NOA61 into this slot. Than it looks like it is too much, nut at the end after it is cured it is not too much anymore.

    It is also the case if the NOA is cured so far that it is not liquid anymore. For some time it is like gel. It is possible to remove NOA61 in this state with the trit without damaging the trit. It is also easy to "clean up" the trit slot.

    There is really no reason to be afraid. If you are a little bit handy than it is really no problem. The important thing is no rush and take your time. I would fix the bezel ring somehow to be sure it will not move as long as I am working on the particular trit slot.
    Still looking for Surefire G2 in Orange.
    If you have one you don't like please PM me.

  28. #1588
    Flashaholic d13avo's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Thank you WarriorOfLight, I'll post some pictures when it's all done.

    Quote Originally Posted by WarriorOfLight View Post
    The best is all NOA is only in the trit slot. When I was clumsy and some NOA61 was beside the trit slot I cleaned up everything and started from the begin.
    The aim is that you only put NOA in the trit slot. You can put a little bit more NOA61 into this slot. Than it looks like it is too much, nut at the end after it is cured it is not too much anymore.

    It is also the case if the NOA is cured so far that it is not liquid anymore. For some time it is like gel. It is possible to remove NOA61 in this state with the trit without damaging the trit. It is also easy to "clean up" the trit slot.

    There is really no reason to be afraid. If you are a little bit handy than it is really no problem. The important thing is no rush and take your time. I would fix the bezel ring somehow to be sure it will not move as long as I am working on the particular trit slot.

  29. #1589
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...=1#post5273482
    It will be a totally new version of the HDS... not just a firmware change. Older and current lights will NOT be able to have this option or be upgraded because it requires a totally knew elf in the light. It's hard to teach an old elf new tricks. Lot's of cool things being worked on, but more than likely, this won't happen until 2020.
    Hi. Any updates?

  30. #1590
    Flashaholic d13avo's Avatar
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    Default Re: HDS Systems EDC #22

    Has anyone on here ever purchased or used the HDS Handlebar Mount? I was thinking of purchasing a couple of these but was curious to what people thought of them. Are they designed by Henry so therefore reliable? Pro's, Con's etc

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