raggie33
*the raggedier*
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i have a trek madone carbon fiber with durace rd 7700 it this bike to out of date . would a modern cheap bike be better?
anyone know about old trek road bikes?
- Thread starter raggie33
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fyrstormer
Banned
Does it still do all the things bikes are supposed to do? If so, there's no reason to replace it.
Cheap bikes come with cheap parts. Modern cheap parts are still not at the level of performance offered by Shimano's top-of-the-line Dura Ace groupset.
Cheap bikes come with cheap parts. Modern cheap parts are still not at the level of performance offered by Shimano's top-of-the-line Dura Ace groupset.
raggie33
*the raggedier*
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some one told me that say durace of 2019 will be the same as 105 in 2020 im not sure if im being clear as t what i mean.
That's all top of the line gear for road cycling, but value depends on condition and age. They've made various Trek Madones with Shimano Dura-Ace for decades. Look on the Dura Ace hardware for an exact model number of each item to determine the rough year of the Dura-Ace parts. You might need photos of the bike to date the Trek frame. Condition is everything. A teeny crack in the carbon fiber could render it unsafe.
There is a lot of trickle-down tech in bike components, but I feel its wrong to outright say something like last year's Dura-Ace is this year's 105.
If you DON'T do road cycling, it's probably the wrong bike for you. If it's not adjusted properly, it'll be a bad ride anyway.
There is a lot of trickle-down tech in bike components, but I feel its wrong to outright say something like last year's Dura-Ace is this year's 105.
If you DON'T do road cycling, it's probably the wrong bike for you. If it's not adjusted properly, it'll be a bad ride anyway.
raggie33
*the raggedier*
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i right now ride my fat tire electric bike things has like 5 inch wide tires lol. but when the battery dies it is so damn hard to peddle
fyrstormer
Banned
There is no way Shimano 105 would be the same quality as Shimano Dura-Ace a single year later. 105 is too far down-market for that to happen. It probably takes a decade for technological advancements to trickle down from Dura-Ace to 105. Anyway, the technological advancements are not even necessary most of the time; if you have top-of-the-line bicycle parts from any era after the 1980s (when Shimano first introduced index shifting), they will work well for average riding.
I have no idea why fatbikes are so popular right now. They're super heavy and, as you point out, hard to pedal without a helper motor. I have to think it's because of the novelty of the thing; everyone who wants a road bike has one, everyone who wants a mountain bike has one, some people who want fatbikes don't have them yet. They're only really useful for riding in snow -- but I have an all-wheel-drive mountain bike for that.
Tiny cracks in carbon fiber parts *can* be dangerous, but the cracked fibers are usually still tangled with each other, so they can be easily reinforced with epoxy. If you have a small crack in a carbon fiber part, you can use a product called Lazer Bond to reinforce it; Lazer Bond is an epoxy that hardens when exposed to UV light. (it's basically the same stuff as Norland 61, but you can buy it on Amazon.) You squirt some epoxy into the cracked fibers, let it soak in, then use the UV light provided with the epoxy to harden it. Repeat until the crack is completely filled, then use wet sandpaper to smooth the surface of the repair. Superglue also works, but it has the disadvantage that it has a limited time to soak into the cracked fibers before it hardens.
I have no idea why fatbikes are so popular right now. They're super heavy and, as you point out, hard to pedal without a helper motor. I have to think it's because of the novelty of the thing; everyone who wants a road bike has one, everyone who wants a mountain bike has one, some people who want fatbikes don't have them yet. They're only really useful for riding in snow -- but I have an all-wheel-drive mountain bike for that.
Tiny cracks in carbon fiber parts *can* be dangerous, but the cracked fibers are usually still tangled with each other, so they can be easily reinforced with epoxy. If you have a small crack in a carbon fiber part, you can use a product called Lazer Bond to reinforce it; Lazer Bond is an epoxy that hardens when exposed to UV light. (it's basically the same stuff as Norland 61, but you can buy it on Amazon.) You squirt some epoxy into the cracked fibers, let it soak in, then use the UV light provided with the epoxy to harden it. Repeat until the crack is completely filled, then use wet sandpaper to smooth the surface of the repair. Superglue also works, but it has the disadvantage that it has a limited time to soak into the cracked fibers before it hardens.
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If it's not broke (ya know what I mean)
Once you completely wear out your shifters, consider current Ultegra.
really, Shimano parts last a long time.
(get same 'speed' components, so stuff is on the same page)
If it's not broke (ya know what I mean)
Once you completely wear out your shifters, consider current Ultegra.
really, Shimano parts last a long time.
(get same 'speed' components, so stuff is on the same page)
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Well this can mean that either the Older Dura Ace is better than the newer or that the current 105 is as good as the older Dura ace.
My personal experience is that the newer 105 is indeed better and also that the Older D Ace stuff is better than the current.
It is not as though anything about the newer bikes has done a single thing to degrade the bike that you already have is it?
There have to be upgrades all the time to continue to keep selling new bikes but none of these translate directly into anything except you spending more money on newer stuff.
They are also putting more speeds into the drivetrain of newer bikes and this requires new rings with closer spacing and all new shifting components to support these.
I have older D.Ace drivelines and still love them as much as I always have and unless there is some reason that these extra gears are something you need then why switch?
I prefer the ride of Ti frames myself and have yet to find a CF frame that I want but this is so subjective that I would say whichever frame you prefer is the one you should have,the drive line is hardly the most important thing these days as they are almost all rugged and reliable and not the part of the bike that I would be concerned with first in any case.
105 is usually just fine for a good long time and has been for a while now.
Like was already offered,if its not broken,why fix it?!?
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raggie33
*the raggedier*
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Now I'm afraid to ride it I'm way to old for a char she after frame fails
Huh?
raggie33
*the raggedier*
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dang spell check . I'm afraid the frame of the bike will fail and I get hurt
raggie33
*the raggedier*
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Because the reply above about carbon fiber .i bought the bike used
Personally I would have a used carbon fiber frame/fork carefully checked by an expert/good bike shop, especially if you aren't sure what to look for. While they are at it, they can overhaul all the running gear. This is a high-end road bike regardless of the vintage, a few bucks for servicing should be worth it. If you are not in to racy road cycling, maybe you should trade it in.
NoNotAgain
Flashlight Enthusiast
Ragging 33,
Do you know how to do tap testing? If so, a simple tap test will show if the frame is cracked.
If the frame is painted, it will show through the paint. Clear coated frames are easier as you'll see a disruption of the fiber and you'll feel it with a finger nail.
I worked with graphite composites for over 30 years for aerospace components. Bike shops aren't equipped to repair 99% of the composite bikes made.
Was the previous owner a little 130 pound guy or a 250 pound behemoth? A light weight guy unless he smacked a curb head on can't generate the force to break a composite frame. A heavyweight that's an aggressive rider jumping curbs and crashing pot holes can break a frame.
The two locations to inspect are the underside of the head tube and where the seat stay attaches at the bottom bracket.
When I ride, I ride my vintage Litespeed Owl Hollow or my cyclocross Appalachian. Titanium's a natural spring. There're not a efficient as a Reynolds 853 steel frame but are more responsive than a composite frame. Composites frames are very dampened. They're light, but unless you're a weight weeny, IMO not worth the money.
Do you know how to do tap testing? If so, a simple tap test will show if the frame is cracked.
If the frame is painted, it will show through the paint. Clear coated frames are easier as you'll see a disruption of the fiber and you'll feel it with a finger nail.
I worked with graphite composites for over 30 years for aerospace components. Bike shops aren't equipped to repair 99% of the composite bikes made.
Was the previous owner a little 130 pound guy or a 250 pound behemoth? A light weight guy unless he smacked a curb head on can't generate the force to break a composite frame. A heavyweight that's an aggressive rider jumping curbs and crashing pot holes can break a frame.
The two locations to inspect are the underside of the head tube and where the seat stay attaches at the bottom bracket.
When I ride, I ride my vintage Litespeed Owl Hollow or my cyclocross Appalachian. Titanium's a natural spring. There're not a efficient as a Reynolds 853 steel frame but are more responsive than a composite frame. Composites frames are very dampened. They're light, but unless you're a weight weeny, IMO not worth the money.
