Suggest a better (or lighter) flashlight setup

Kestrel

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As I'm trying to lighten my hiking daypack, one aspect I'm looking at are the flashlights it currently contains, and whether the current configuration can be improved.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ze3200olybjsf27/Hiking kit.jpg?dl=0

The lights on the left hand side are the ones currently in my daypack:
  • Pelican 1920 2xAAA; 63g
  • LD01/Microstream 1xAAA; 28g
  • Mako Flood 1xAAA; 29g
  • Fenix HL05 mini headlamp (8lm); 38g
  • 2xAAA Enelooop spares; 25g
Total weight: 183 grams

The (CR123) lights on the right are potential candidates:
  • SF L1; 90g
  • SF T1A Titan; 60g
  • SF Minimus headlamp; 125g
  • CR123 spares; 17g each
Not shown is my Boss70 EDC (not in the daypack), at 116g

Part of the reason I'm taking a look at this, is that the Boss is relatively recent; that vast amount of EDC capability makes some of these daypack items superfluous IMO.

The question posed to membership is; what changes in my loadout should be done to reduce what would be considered excess, and also possibly to maintain overall capabilities at the same time?

My first thought for a minimal setup is:
  • LD01/Microstream; 28g
  • Mako Flood; 29g
  • 2xCR123 spares for the EDC Boss70; 34g
For a total of only 91 grams; the Mako providing mega potential runtime while containing a spare cell for the potentially thirsty multimode LD01.
The epic Boss70 (containing a 3400mAh 18650), having 2xCR123 for backup (or even a spare 18650 if no other CR123 lights are chosen), should cover virtually any need - but backups are always necessary.

Suggestions? Please include the total packed weight as an exercise. :)
K
 
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LRJ88

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Just out of curiosity, how long do you usually hike for? Considering you're hunting grams here, wouldn't it be of some consideration the power draw of the flashlights you choose as well, seeing as how more power hungry flashlights could potentially mean more batteries that could eat up the weight of a slightly heavier flashlight with better efficiency?
 

bykfixer

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I would leave the Pelican (or microstream) at home and swap in a BiC lighter for fire on a stick use and swap the eneloops for eneloop pros for the increased runtime potential.

I'm speculating most walking would be done in daytime and resting at night. So a campfire would provide ambient light and the boss could be used to see what lurks in the distance, so definitely spare fuel for that one.
 

InvisibleFrodo

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I would say your perfect setup to cover all of the bases is to think of the lights you carry not as mako/LD01/microstream, but rather as their intended use/niche that they fill. If they aren't filling a particular niche that isn't covered by another light, they shouldn't be there. In other words, try to avoid redundancy.
So I would pack your bag something like this:
A low powered super long run time light
A light that's just for long range/throw
A headlamp for hands free illumination
A general purpose light
I might consider a spares carrier or two for holding and organizing spare cells. They take up very very little space and even allow you to keep track of which cells are fresh and which are dead.
Let me know your thoughts...
 

Kestrel

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Just out of curiosity, how long do you usually hike for? Considering you're hunting grams here, wouldn't it be of some consideration the power draw of the flashlights you choose as well, seeing as how more power hungry flashlights could potentially mean more batteries that could eat up the weight of a slightly heavier flashlight with better efficiency?
It's just my day-hiking pack (detailed here); but worst-case (i.e. lost or injured), I would be out for a couple of nights.
Efficiency is definitely key; the BOSS70 w/ its lower modes is the efficiency king, along with the Mako flood & its epic 1xAAA runtime.

I would leave the Pelican (or microstream) at home and swap in a BiC lighter for fire on a stick use and swap the eneloops for eneloop pros for the increased runtime potential.

I'm speculating most walking would be done in daytime and resting at night. So a campfire would provide ambient light and the boss could be used to see what lurks in the distance, so definitely spare fuel for that one.
True; in fact, I've got /much/ redundancy with the firestarting capabilities in my daypack as well, so I'm actually going to run a thread on that aspect as well. :)
re: Eneloop Pro's; no fair in that's not listed - my budget is $0, partially because I have pretty decent choices w/ my reserve equipment/supplies.
But yes, definitely spare fuel for the BOSS - not only for extra runtime, but considering the possibility of a suddenly-defective cell.

I would say your perfect setup to cover all of the bases is to think of the lights you carry not as mako/LD01/microstream, but rather as their intended use/niche that they fill. If they aren't filling a particular niche that isn't covered by another light, they shouldn't be there. In other words, try to avoid redundancy. [...]
Excellent; I really think that the LD01 & Mako Flood are an awesome combo along those lines: the LD01 for its ~70lm high and ~2lm low (therefore being an adequate general-purpose backup light to the 4+ mode BOSS70), and the ~5 lumen Mako Flood carrying an identical cell - either to swap into the LD01 to keep that running - or to stand on its own as an extremely efficient short-range floody light.
 
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jon_slider

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I would move the T1A to the front of the class, and expel the mako and LD01

then I would replace the Pelican, with a Lumintop Tool, which can be used as a hatlamp, thereby also replacing the HL05

the new kit would be (weight with battery inside)
60g T1A (covers same modes, plus more, as the mako and LD01)
28g Tool (matches the Pelican outputs, plus adds a lower mode, plus hatlamp)
6g 1x spare aaa ultimate lithium

94g total

kit goes from 4 lights to 2 lights, and the boss, loaded with 2x CR123, can be a spare battery carrier for the T1A
 
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likethevegetable

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If the set-up will be for your daypack, and you don't expect to hike into the night and have a low chance of getting lost, I'd simply bring a AA with a Lithium Primary. Heck, my H53c is sufficient for multi-day hikes if I'm only camping at night.
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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Yeah, I agree. A daypack doesn't need more than 1 light, as you likely won't be using it. Bring along just one reliable light that has good runtime and efficiency. For example, my Zebralight SC52 with a AA Eneloop weighs 65g. Stick an Energizer lithium primary in it to save a few more grams. It will run for 8 hours at about 50 lumens, with the ability to go to 300 lumens if you need it. Or down to moonlight modes for weeks of run time.

(The SC53 is their current 1xAA model. Similar output and run times. More programmable UI.)

If your hike will get you back home well before sunset, I'd go for a small 1xAAA light instead. But if there's risk of being caught out after dark, stick with 1xAA. The AA will give you descent light all night. After that, you're bear food anyway.
 

fresh eddie fresh

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As far as weight, runtime, brightness, and price, I feel as though you can't go wrong with one of the Pak-Lites as an emergency hiking light. The only trouble I have ever had is that sometimes they can pop off the end of the 9V if it gets loose. Nothing a zip tie or a piece of tape can't fix, however. I love the glow in the dark ones because if you drop them it is easier to spot.
 

Kestrel

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Thank you for all the replies; I have read every one in detail. I knew that CR123 lights in general wouldn't be getting much loving, so not surprised for so few votes for transitioning more toward them. It was convenient for the previous setup to focus on AAA's for interchangeability, but the BOSS has made me re-evaluate that. I don't want to move away from the AAA eneloops, so the BOSS will have to soldier on without backup cells I'm thinking.

+1 on the "How long do you expect to be out for, anyway??" comments - lol - the BOSS can run for ~4 days on my ~16 lumen mode setting, which is more than adequate for virtually any nighttime utility.
 

Buck91

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I also like AAA lights. Very small and light with better runtime and easy battery changes than most button cells. Sure, a AA and especially cr123 will offer better output and replacement cells would be harder to scavenge if needed (yeah I went prepper on you there). If you are gram hunting I'd look for a headlamp and backup flashlight combination running the same cell this way your backup light would function as an extra battery as well as mechanical redundancy. I strongly prefer single cell lights, though if you need extended runtime or output that makes it difficult (unless you go 18650 with significantly greater weight).
 
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