Which lights shine for you during a long power outage?

flatline

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Apparently a tree fell yesterday evening and caused half the town to lose power for several hours.

In each room that mattered (bathrooms, kitchen, bedrooms), I used a low-power, long run-time light for ceiling bounce. The Eveready 1D was my main flashlight for this role, but I also had several 2D flashlights with Dorcy 3v PR-style LEDs. I love these lights because they get 100+ hours of useful light from 1 or 2 D cells and provide enough light to safely navigate a room or not miss when using the toilet.

Each family member had a small light that they carried. My wife grabbed my old Maglite 2AA with NiteIze LED drop-in. I used my old Quark AA. The kids grabbed the HDS and Zebralight SC51. I ended up with the HDS once my son realized that it was programmed for auto-off after 5 or 10 minutes of use.

I set out a bunch of other lights just in case we needed them for something, but they went unused. Of particular note, nobody was interested in the lanterns.

My shelf of expensive high-power flashlights was totally ignored. Once everyone got used to the low lighting levels, even the 50 lumens from my Malkoff LLL drop-in seemed painfully bright.

--flatline
 

StarHalo

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Anything warm tint becomes a lot more desirable once the power's out; once your eyes are adjusted, you'll find a ceiling-bounced ~100 lumens to be about right for the family table, ~25 lumens for an individual doing something on their own, and ~2 lumens lights up an idle person's space nicely. Anything more than these numbers just puts more light on what you can already see and drains batteries faster.
 

Robin Dobbie

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I have an older eco-i-lite that turns on automatically when the power goes out. Wireless charging. There's not even any charger contacts, it's totally sealed. Not sure what that means for eventual battery replacement, however. It has a little cradle/nightlight and you just lift it out of to turn it on. It does have a switch, too

There's some by Energizer, the Red Cross, GE, and others. Seems like most are a single piece so you'd have to yank it out of the wall upon each use. I wouldn't use mine nearly as much for non-power outage issues if I had to do that. My only complaint is the spill is greater than 180 degrees. I fixed it with gaffers tape. The new ones don't look to have that issue.

I figure most people here have enough 18650/21700/26650/whatever lights to illuminate an entire city for 72 hours.
 

Sos24

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I use the HDS for walking around and have a diffuser cap that also helps with lighting up a room. My wife uses an EagleTac D25c a lot. The Jetbeam RRT-01 with diffuser lens works great for area illumination. I also have two lanterns which get called into action - Fenix CL20 and Luci solar lantern.
 

bykfixer

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The Eveready 1D is great at times like post hurricanes when light quality takes a backseat to longevity. Heck at like $4 a pop I bought several a couple years back.

We have a few 3 cell Maglite ML series in the house for use on eco mode for ceiling bounce. Wal Mart was clearing out the 611 lumen 3 cell ML50's for $25 so I bought 2 more last week and kept them nip.

I have a few lights that either start on low like a Streamlight Polytac or SureFire G2x Pro or just don't put out a lot of light like a Yuji'd P60 in a 3P clone, a couple of Yuji'd minimags and a Yuji'd P60 in a Rayovac 2aa Inderstructable. Also a few Fenix E01's are scattered about and a couple of Yuji'd Sofirm C01's.

A recent score of little $4 camping lanterns by Ozark Trail did not get used post Dorian because he zig'd instead of zag'd.

Want warm tint? Jar candles.
 
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flatline

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One thing I learned last night is that I do not stock sufficient D cells for the emergency lights that I have. The Eveready 1D lights had the D cell they came with, but my 2 Maglites (2D and 4D) and most of the 2D pr-bulb lights were running AAs in AA->D adapters. That's fine for my own purposes, but in an emergency where others are trying to make due with the lights they find stashed around the house, actually having D cells stashed with the lights is a better plan.

I have a policy that every sink in the house (kitchen and bathrooms) has a first-aid kit, fire extinguisher, flashlight, and flashlight batteries stored under it, but apparently the batteries had mostly wandered off in all the bathrooms other than mine...

--flatline
 

bykfixer

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We keep a stockpile of C and D cells handy FL. I had grabbed a new 6 pack of C cells for ML50's a week before Dorian.
We already had 2 dozen D cells.

I used to keep dozens around but decided to use them in antique lights which in many cases have awful parasitic drain so much of my stockpile became depleted. Eh, it's best to use 'em before they get stale anyhow so we buy less at a time these days and keep stock fresher.

I hear ya on the Eneloops thing. So much lighter with those inside. But having a few E01's and a 36 pack of triple a cells adds assurance that we can navigate around the house or yard.

Maglite has a new 2D classic with a low that runs at about 75% so you can still check your roof while having decent runtime of like 15 hours on high and 100+ on low.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?458617-NEW-2-Speed-2D-Maglite
Some Target stores have reportedly carried them recently but I got mine from Grainger. It's a classic 2D down to the mechanical switch so there's no parasitic drain. About $40. For online purchases it carries the same model number as the old 177 lumen model (or 168?) so be sure it's the 213 lumen model for the hi/lo version.
 
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gurdygurds

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How do you like those newer dual mode 2D versus say a 2C ML50L?
We keep a stockpile of C and D cells handy FL. I had grabbed a new 6 pack of C cells for ML50's a week before Dorian.
We already had 2 dozen D cells.

I used to keep dozens around but decided to use them in antique lights which in many cases have awful parasitic drain so much of my stockpile became depleted. Eh, it's best to use 'em before they get stale anyhow so we buy less at a time these days and keep stock fresher.

I hear ya on the Eneloops thing. So much lighter with those inside. But having a few E01's and a 36 pack of triple a cells adds assurance that we can navigate around the house or yard.

Maglite has a new 2D classic with a low that runs at about 75% so you can still check your roof while having decent runtime of like 15 hours on high and 100+ on low.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?458617-NEW-2-Speed-2D-Maglite
Some Target stores have reportedly carried them recently but I got mine from Grainger. It's a classic 2D down to the mechanical switch so there's no parasitic drain. About $40. For online purchases it carries the same model number as the old 177 lumen model so be sure it's the 213 lumen model for the hi/lo version.
 

buds224

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Flashlights are used in our household for getting around and looking for things in the dark and are almost never used for ambient lighting. I have several USB LED, warm tinted, with sensors on them that I can stick on any number of power banks we have. The sensors are nice because I can leave them in the on position at the ready and if the lights go out, they activate. I believe they were rated at about 160lumens, so not too bright, and not too dim. Sweet spot.
 

bykfixer

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How do you like those newer dual mode 2D versus say a 2C ML50L?

The ML50 is a much more dispersed light than this new classic. But ML's have an afixed head so no candle mode option like the classic version. For general purpose the ML series is a better option, plus a high, medium and eco make it even more practical. Great for ceiling bounce lighting.
For searching woods, or anything requiring a lot of throw without ruining night adapted peripherals the classic is the way to go in my view.
 

Lynx_Arc

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Tulsa,OK
I've switched from mostly NIMH with a few alkaline in 2007 for a 4.5 day power outage to mostly 18650 now.
I have dozens of power banks including 6 anker power banks and 3 headlamps and 5 flashlights and 1 lantern and USB cables and USB LED lights and chargers. I have USB LED modules that support dimming that run on low at under 1ma current such that not all power banks can support that low of output but the ones that do run for weeks at that level better than a 1D lantern for sure as they take up a lot less space.
I have lights on my keyboard, my LED clock/thermometer, stereo controls, and a shelf near my tv set powered by power banks that run for weeks up to 12 hours a day. I have dozens of 18650s I got dirt cheap paying scrap prices for battery packs from a recycler here and also have USB adapters for my almost a dozen 20v tool batteries and one 20v work light. I can recharge power banks from auto or home or tool batteries and use them to power or recharge anything USB related including my 3 headlamps plus I have over 2 dozen bare 18650s to swap in/out of things. I'm on the lookout for most 18650 based things including better flashlights and lanterns and USB devices I have a few fans and several bluetooth speakers plus I even made a 9v booster for my boom box to power it via USB. I also have an old Energizer duo usb charger for 2AA/2AAA cells if I need a few recharged. I'm thinking about selling my 1D energizer lanterns as all my C and D cells are ancient now and could leak any day The only D cell device I use any more is a 6V lantern that I grab when the 3AA LED light beside it gets leaky batteries and won't work. I still have several boom boxes that use D cells and flashlights but don't put batteries in the boom boxes and the flashlights I have about 20 minutes of use combined in them all over the last decade.

I figure the next outage I will grab one of my headlamps, pocket a cheap 18650 light and use power banks and LED modules for lighting and grab a power bank and a bluetooth speaker and watch movies on my phone.
 

gurdygurds

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The ML50 is a much more dispersed light than this new classic. But ML's have an afixed head so no candle mode option like the classic version. For general purpose the ML series is a better option, plus a high, medium and eco make it even more practical. Great for ceiling bounce lighting.
For searching woods, or anything requiring a lot of throw without ruining night adapted peripherals the classic is the way to go in my view.

Good. Then I'm not tempted. Actually really happy with my 2c. Great on low for ceiling bounce, and awesome dog walking light at night.
 

Eicca

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My Fenix PD35 v2.0 is my go-to for such occasions. Lowest mode is 5 lumens, perfect for personal use, and has a runtime of over 400 hours. The UC35 has a lowest of 1 lumen and a runtime of over 800hr so I might have to grab one of those too. Both lights have plenty of higher output settings if needed.

And should the 18650s get all used up, I've got a pack of spare CR123s. If those run out too, I've got a lot worse problems to deal with than my lighting.
 
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During the outage we just had from Dorian my wife preferred the neutral Hound Dog 18650 for cooking. Tail stand on low. She liked the tint. She did not like the D4S because the edge spill was too bright for her.

I used the D4S (XP-L 4k) to shower by and it was awesome.

Walking around the house I mostly used the F3WS 219C.
 

Poppy

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Fortunately we haven't experienced a LONG outage since Hurricane Sandy of 2012 where we lost power for 3 1/2 days. During that I fired up my generator, and sat in gas lines.

Last Summer we lost power for a few hours prior to sunset. I suspected that something was wrong because a number of my neighbors were outside their houses chatting with others. When I entered my house, I knew there was a power outage, because my emergency power outage lights were on. The ones Robin referred to above. I am a huge proponent of those auto on emergency lights. They are only about $10 each, and can be had for less. Power outages can cause "cave like darkness" in an instant, and scare the snot out of a child or anyone who has never experienced it before. Strategically placed each can shed light into more than one room. They come on instantly and no one gets scared. No one falls while stumbling around trying to find a light.

Pretty much all of my lights are 18650's with neutral tints. Ceiling bounced, I don't know if any one is significantly better than the next. I was surprised a few years back that when we had an outage, I grabbed a 3D cell lantern and placed it on top of the refrigerator. Three D lights at 100 lumens or less will run as long as a 3 cell - 18650 light. At 300 lumens or more, there is no comparison: the D cells can't keep up.

Probably the first light I would grab and tail-stand is a Defiant triple powered by an 18650 and an adapter I made, and placed on the dining room table. Not for any particular reason other than it sits on top of my dresser nearest the door to my bedroom.

There are Convoy S2+ lights near the living room door, in the kitchen junk drawer, the bathroom/s drawers, in my flashlights drawer in my bedroom, and usually on my daughter's night table.

During Sandy I discovered how important it was to get local news. I had no TV, because although *I* had power, the cable company did not! At the time, I didn't have a broadcast antennae.

I have an 8 C cell small boombox radio that I store the alkaline batteries in it, but I put a little piece of plastic between the ends of the series of cells, and the contacts, so that if they leak, they won't destroy the radio contacts. The only time I will use that radio is during an emergency. I also have a 3AA cell small transistor radio with batteries outside of it.

I have a few Ryobi 18V tools, and its AM/FM bluetooth radio that also has a USB output port which allows me to use my tool batteries as power banks for cell phones etc. I also recently bought their 12V inverter charger to recharge the tool batteries from my car, just because it was available, and I could. :)
 

ZMZ67

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Colorado
There hasn't been much in the way of power outages recently but I still like the Pak-lites and Dorcy motion sensor night lights. The Dorcy lights are warm enough to suite me and pop on conveniently when you walk into a room. They also have convenient auto off when no motion is detected. Pak-lites run for a long time and are daily users around the house for my wife and I anyway.I like the 4K model but the wife seems to be satisfied with the old "angry blue" cool whites.

When I want to provide more constant room lighting I like to use 6V lantern style flashlights with a PR base LED bulb or one of the Energizer "Dolphin" style LED 6V lanterns tail standing. Ceiling bounce seems to work better in the house than area lanterns. I might grab another light here and there but I also find that we really don't use much in the way of my"good"or higher power lights. Never to fear though,should the need arise there is always a M61LL or LLL in arms reach as well as plenty of other more capable lights. :D
 
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LetThereBeLight!

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Fortunately we haven't experienced a LONG outage since Hurricane Sandy of 2012 where we lost power for 3 1/2 days. During that I fired up my generator, and sat in gas lines.

Last Summer we lost power for a few hours prior to sunset. I suspected that something was wrong because a number of my neighbors were outside their houses chatting with others. When I entered my house, I knew there was a power outage, because my emergency power outage lights were on. The ones Robin referred to above. I am a huge proponent of those auto on emergency lights. They are only about $10 each, and can be had for less. Power outages can cause "cave like darkness" in an instant, and scare the snot out of a child or anyone who has never experienced it before. Strategically placed each can shed light into more than one room. They come on instantly and no one gets scared. No one falls while stumbling around trying to find a light.

Pretty much all of my lights are 18650's with neutral tints. Ceiling bounced, I don't know if any one is significantly better than the next. I was surprised a few years back that when we had an outage, I grabbed a 3D cell lantern and placed it on top of the refrigerator. Three D lights at 100 lumens or less will run as long as a 3 cell - 18650 light. At 300 lumens or more, there is no comparison: the D cells can't keep up.

Probably the first light I would grab and tail-stand is a Defiant triple powered by an 18650 and an adapter I made, and placed on the dining room table. Not for any particular reason other than it sits on top of my dresser nearest the door to my bedroom.

There are Convoy S2+ lights near the living room door, in the kitchen junk drawer, the bathroom/s drawers, in my flashlights drawer in my bedroom, and usually on my daughter's night table.

During Sandy I discovered how important it was to get local news. I had no TV, because although *I* had power, the cable company did not! At the time, I didn't have a broadcast antennae.

I have an 8 C cell small boombox radio that I store the alkaline batteries in it, but I put a little piece of plastic between the ends of the series of cells, and the contacts, so that if they leak, they won't destroy the radio contacts. The only time I will use that radio is during an emergency. I also have a 3AA cell small transistor radio with batteries outside of it.

I have a few Ryobi 18V tools, and its AM/FM bluetooth radio that also has a USB output port which allows me to use my tool batteries as power banks for cell phones etc. I also recently bought their 12V inverter charger to recharge the tool batteries from my car, just because it was available, and I could. :)

Poppy, I don't think there's anything you HAVEN'T thought of!

Let me know when the house next door to you is up for sale. :)
 

StarHalo

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I'm not a fan of rechargeable cells for power outage usage, as you'll find once in an outage, you'll have enough tasks on your hands [what's for dinner, how do I keep everyone warm/cool, how can I get more information about what's going on, etc] that carefully maintaining which devices which need which cells and keeping track of where the cells are and how to recharge cells etc. et al. ad inf. isn't realistic - it's much faster and simpler to dump dead primaries out of a device into the trash and replace them from the stash, carry on with what you were doing.

The USB battery pack does change up the game somewhat, because now some of your most crucial devices will be requiring a USB charge and not batteries; make sure this is taken into account before the outage arrives..
 
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