[Review] 219b R9080 in A6

So I have a BLF A6 that I mod'd by replacing the stock emitter with a "NICHIA 219B NVSL219BT-V1 4000k sw40 d220 L2 r9080"
This is the nearest match to the "SST-20 4000K review":https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?461573-Review-SST-20-in-FW3A-is-divine! I just posted yesterday.



As you see below, the 219b hug the BBL very well until you get to Turbo. To be fair, I probably shouldn't be turbo-ing these things. But they have low output by design, so I can't resist. CCT, Tint, and CRI all go to heck on turbo. Please note, the Moon/Low/Med output levels are customized on this flashlight. The reports each detail what the FET and 7135's are set to in the firmware.



"A6 219b Moon.pdf":https://www.dropbox.com/s/og6dk9wum3v9tq8/A6 219b Moon.pdf?dl=1
CCT: 4266
Duv: -0.0003
CRI (Ra): 95.7
TLCI: 97

"A6 219b Low.pdf":https://www.dropbox.com/s/uo1ws5naf8dh0cy/A6 219b Low.pdf?dl=1
CCT: 4261
Duv: -0.0002
CRI (Ra): 95.3
TLCI: 96

"A6 219b Med.pdf":https://www.dropbox.com/s/kwkmo8894cszf11/A6 219b Med.pdf?dl=1
CCT: 4281
Duv: -0.0012
CRI (Ra): 95.7
TLCI: 96

"A6 219b Turbo.pdf":https://www.dropbox.com/s/prpcxvbwnw28yhi/A6 219b Turbo.pdf?dl=1
CCT: 4736
Duv: -0.0171
CRI (Ra): 85.9
TLCI: 96

So these things leave me with either low output, or low quality light. Therefore the SST-20 reign supreme for me.

That 219B is way overdriven in turbo. The CCT tells that. What cell are you using? Try a lower drain cell closer to 3-5 Amp output in turbo

Thanks again for this analysis. By the numbers, it still looks like the 219b is the gold standard in CRI and consistency. Having said that though, we all would be hard pressed to tell the difference between the 219b and sst-20 unless they're side by side. Lumen output, on the other hand, sst-20 is much more capable, and that's a difference in performance that can be appreciated.

Now. Where can I get an HDS with an SST-20 FD2 bin around here....

staticx57 said:

That 219B is way overdriven in turbo. The CCT tells that. What cell are you using? Try a lower drain cell closer to 3-5 Amp output in turbo

Click to expand...

I'm using a Samsung 30Q (see report). And yea, it's totally overdriven.

badtziscool said:

Now. Where can I get an HDS with an SST-20 FD2 bin around here....

Click to expand...

Have FD2 ready and waiting for old rotary to show up in my mailbox[emoji41]

joshk said:

So I have a BLF A6 that I mod'd by replacing the stock emitter with a "NICHIA 219B NVSL219BT-V1 4000k sw40 d220 L2 r9080
...
So these things leave me with either low output, or low quality light. Therefore the SST-20 reign supreme for me.

Click to expand...

Thanks for all the tests and images
can you show a side by side beamshot of the tint of the 219b and SST-20, using daylight white balance please?

from what Ive seen so far the SST-20 has tint above the BBL

badtziscool said:

Lumen output, on the other hand, sst-20 is much more capable, and that's a difference in performance that can be appreciated.

... Where can I get an HDS with an SST-20 FD2 bin around here....

Click to expand...

If HDS builds the light, afaik it will be limited to 200 lumens, like all the other High CRI models (except the 3500k 219b that is limited to 180 lumens). So unless you modify an HDS yourself, I do not believe you will get more lumens from an SST-20 4000k than from a 219b 4000k.

It will be interesting to hear what output id30209 gets when he mods his HDS to SST-20 4000k

When I modified an HDS Rotary that had an xp-g with 200 lumen output, to 219b 3500k 9080, I got 170 lumens.

jon_slider said:

can you show a side by side beamshot of the tint of the 219b and SST-20, using daylight white balance please?

Click to expand...

Alright. But I'm using 4000K white balance since that's more appropriate here.

Nichia


SST


Obviously the Nichia is under-exposed and the SST is over-exposed, but for this true comparison I had to use matching camera settings.

thanks for taking the time
however, I do not find those single beam types images helpful for the info Im seeking

I specifically am asking for both beams to be in the same photo, at the same time, on white paper or wall, with a daylight white balance

I have reasons

here is an example of what I consider a useful image for comparison of tints

in that image, my goal was to compare the LH351d tint, to my sw45k.. the cool white (cool green), low cri light on the right is just for visual reference, and to fool my iphone towards a daylight white balance

the image is shot against a folded piece of printer paper, and I do my best to use similar lumen levels in each light

I also shoot by a window during the day, again to help fool my iPhone into using daylight white balance

imo, Daylight White Balance, 5700k, is essential to create consistency in image color temperatures

I have strong opinions that using a 4000k white balance, confuses the audience, even though I can understand its implications

I prefer to see warm light looking warm, as it does in relation to daylight, instead of adjusting the white balance to some other CCT than daylight

hope you dont mind the longwinded post

I think it would be awesome if people would use My photo strategies, cause if I may be so bold, they work really well.. at least for me.. lol

while Im at it
imnsho
beamshots of plants are essentially useless
even low cri light can make green leaves look green

but that does little to give actual cct and tint info
the way to get relevant comparisons, imo, is to use images that contain multiple beams in the same shot, against white, using daylight white balance, and not shots of trees with random white balances and single beams.. thats just so, ... yesteryear.. lol

no offense to oldtimers.. some of my best friends are old ;-)

The pictures were taken with a DSLR in full manual mode, so you can stitch them together in your mind. There is no weirdness. If you compare the fidelity and CRI numbers you will see the difference. As well as the brightness.

joshk said:

Obviously the Nichia is under-exposed and the SST is over-exposed, but for this true comparison I had to use matching camera settings.

Click to expand...

how about a shot where both beams are at the same lumen level on a white wall?

and also thanks for what Im learning from you, that the SST is brighter, at the same power level, or "more efficient" in runtime, at the same lumen level

great photos,
though I cant read tint on green plants, and the differences in exposure, make it hard to tell tint differences

but overall, I like the one on the left better..

I admit to major bias.. brighter is not better, for me, if its yellower.. or greener.. even though those tints tend to be how those LEDs get brighter..

Im not a tree hunter, Im a whitewall hunter.. lol

thanks for all the food for thought

Duv in the Nichia pic is -0.0012 and Duv in the SST pic is 0.0010.

I do have a pic of the Nichia going into Turbo and going horribly rosy...



Duv has become -0.0171.

I don't have a Turbo-ed SST pic because it would be so very over-exposed, but the Duv of the SST in turbo is a pleasant -0.0020.

joshk said:

Duv in the Nichia pic is -0.0012 and Duv in the SST pic is 0.0010

Click to expand...

thank you for all those details
those values suggest that the SST has tint above the bbl

here is another SST compared to 219b conversation.. you can see the duv of the sst is again above the bbl:

219b, negative duv:


sst, duv above the bbl:


many people enjoy the higher output of the SST over the 219b, thanks for sharing your thoughts.. you put a lot of work into all that data collection

respect

Yea the Duv of 0.0010 is technically above the BBL, but by less than 1 macAdams ellipse, so it's impossible to see the deviation. A macAdams ellipse is of course the area where all the tints are indistinguishable to the human eye.

joshk said:

Yea the Duv of 0.0010 is technically above the BBL

Click to expand...

the SST-20 Duv in this chart is considerably greener.. I dont know why.. maybe your data uses different power levels or calibration?

Yea Duv changes with power, so without knowing what power level was used for the Duv you posted I can't make heads or tails of it. I can say that I trust my meter's calibration. I have used it a lot, and I have zero reason to doubt anything it says.

When I get brass E07 in with the FD2 binned SST20s I will take some photos to compare it with my ROT66 with FB4 and ROT66 with SW45K.

I'll take them all separately with my A6300 on full manual against a white paper and stitch them together. I find that cameras do weird things when multiple tints and ccts are captured at once. I'll put them all at a medium output, and only change shutter speed if I have to. ISO, white balance, aperture will all be the same.

Maybe I'll set up the ol still-life as well.

food for thought.. notice the R9 and duv values

What bin was that SST? What optics? What distance and angle was the measurement from?

that info is in a link I sent you by PM

I decided to take them together just because it made for a better picture. Neither of the two SST20 bins have a Lee filter over them. The difference between FB4 and FD2 bin is subtle, but it's there. Output of each is ~1000 lumen; 1/650 f4.0.