Fenix LD02 - fix or toss? Flashlights - are they worth it?

My much-used daily companion, the Fenix LD02, has developed a fault - it will no longer go to high mode. If I bypass the switch by screwing the head onto ar twisty body, all three modes work - but I really like the rear click switch. It's out of warranty, bought it in 2016. I've always used Energizer L92 or Enelooops in this light, so it's never had a leaky cell in it.

I can't see how the switch is assembled into the body, there's no visible screw holes or pin holes. While trying to remove the rubber cap, I tore it completely off - and still didn't get any idea of how to remove the switch.

I've seen variable reviews of Fenix factory service running from "Oh, sure, they'll fix it in a couple of weeks for postage and the cost of a switch" up to 4-month epics of shipment to China.

It'd cost me $7 or $8 to mail it to a US service facility - I doubt they fix anything in Canada.

Is it worth considering Fexix factory service?

Is there a tear-down video out there? If I could get at the switch to body interface, I could probably clean the crud out of it.

I don't think I'm extremely hard on my pocket flashlights and yet I don't get much life span out of them. The Iluminati CA1s I had a few years back only lasted a year or so, and the NextTorch keychain light fell apart after 18 months. The Fenix UC01 got demoted to a "bag light" because it runs down in my pocket. The Inova AAA got demoted to a "multitool sheath" because of its awkward combination twisty/momentary button user interface.

That's a lot of money spent on bitty lights in not many years - a couple hundred dollars? - and here I am today with no light! Well, I still have a UC02 which survives because it has a twisty interface so it gets used much less than the LD02 did.

Luckily my Quark AA still works great - it's a little big for the pocket but maybe that buys more life span. And I just picked up some 14500 LiIons so it can be as bright as a 2AA.

Maybe I should just buy whatever WalMart has hanging on a pegboard in the 1 x AAA format and throw it away every time the battery runs out - it would probably cost me less per running hour than the small fortune I've paid for more "technical" lights. Walmart has a wall-full of fiercely-named lights which don't cost any more than no-name Ebay items and which are probably as reputable in terms of meting their specs.


Sadly,


Bill

Well switches are plentiful and cheap on various Chinese sites. Also doesn't fenix-store offer repair for payment services?

Thank you, I will have to hunt down these replacement switches of which you speak. But my big problem is that I don't see how to get the darn thing out. If I could see a ring with some holes it in I could try and unscrew it..but I see nothing like that.

I've also got an e-mail inquiry to Fenix service, I hope that I get some kind of sensible reply there. I don't want to pay $30 to fix a light that only cost $40 in the first place.

Bill

Kitchen Panda said:

Is it worth considering Fexix factory service?

Click to expand...

Yes, it's worth considering. In my experience, Fenix customer service has been stellar. I'm not sure how it will be handled with Canadian locations, but if you have an email inquiry in, they will get back to you. See what they say and decide if it is cost effective.

The Fenix Store has a section here on the forum too, where they've answered questions about warranty procedures, repairs, etc. I have 7 Fenix lights, and every time I've needed customer or warranty service, everything was handled professionally.

Kitchen Panda said:

My much-used daily companion, the Fenix LD02, has developed a fault - it will no longer go to high mode. If I bypass the switch by screwing the head onto ar twisty body, all three modes work - but I really like the rear click switch. It's out of warranty, bought it in 2016. I've always used Energizer L92 or Enelooops in this light, so it's never had a leaky cell in it.

I can't see how the switch is assembled into the body, there's no visible screw holes or pin holes. While trying to remove the rubber cap, I tore it completely off - and still didn't get any idea of how to remove the switch.

I've seen variable reviews of Fenix factory service running from "Oh, sure, they'll fix it in a couple of weeks for postage and the cost of a switch" up to 4-month epics of shipment to China.

It'd cost me $7 or $8 to mail it to a US service facility - I doubt they fix anything in Canada.

Is it worth considering Fexix factory service?

Is there a tear-down video out there? If I could get at the switch to body interface, I could probably clean the crud out of it.

I don't think I'm extremely hard on my pocket flashlights and yet I don't get much life span out of them. The Iluminati CA1s I had a few years back only lasted a year or so, and the NextTorch keychain light fell apart after 18 months. The Fenix UC01 got demoted to a "bag light" because it runs down in my pocket. The Inova AAA got demoted to a "multitool sheath" because of its awkward combination twisty/momentary button user interface.

That's a lot of money spent on bitty lights in not many years - a couple hundred dollars? - and here I am today with no light! Well, I still have a UC02 which survives because it has a twisty interface so it gets used much less than the LD02 did.

Luckily my Quark AA still works great - it's a little big for the pocket but maybe that buys more life span. And I just picked up some 14500 LiIons so it can be as bright as a 2AA.

Maybe I should just buy whatever WalMart has hanging on a pegboard in the 1 x AAA format and throw it away every time the battery runs out - it would probably cost me less per running hour than the small fortune I've paid for more "technical" lights. Walmart has a wall-full of fiercely-named lights which don't cost any more than no-name Ebay items and which are probably as reputable in terms of meting their specs.


Sadly,


Bill

Click to expand...

Hello Bill,

Sorry to see what you have encountered. You bought the light in Canada or in USA? Have you tried to contact the local distributor?

If no, please try to contact, and check what Fenix customer service replied. Anyway, I will be right here and help you to solve this problem.

Fenix

fenix1 said:

Hello Bill,

Sorry to see what you have encountered. You bought the light in Canada or in USA? Have you tried to contact the local distributor?

If no, please try to contact, and check what Fenix customer service replied. Anyway, I will be right here and help you to solve this problem.

Fenix

Click to expand...

Hello ! Purchased in Winnipeg, I have contacted the store from which I'd purchased the light. I've also sent off an inquiry to [email protected]. Hope to get responses soon, I will update this thread with any results.

Bill

H

Strike 1 - original store says flashlights are too complicated to fix. Hah! Don't buy anything "electronic" from them and expect after sales service. But this is pretty typical of Canadian retail - once they have your money, they lose all interest in supporting you afterward. They did give me another e-mail address to try at Fenix. It's a warranty e-mail and this isn't a warranty claim but maybe someone at Fenix can give me the information I need.

Bill

Things are looking up! I re-transmitted my request for assistance yesterday, and in today's e-mail I had a response from Fenix in China. They directed me to fill in the warranty claim form at the Canadian importer's Web site (https://notosora.com/warranty/) and contact that importer for further instructions. To my surprise, they give a 5 year warranty on this site compared to 2 years printed on the box! This is good news. Now to e-mail them and see if I can get an RMA, probably tomorrow (Monday).

Browsing through the importer's Web site, I was distressed to see every Fenix product I own is in the "retired" category. LD02 - replaced by Mark 2, which I don't like because it's bigger and has a less than useful UV LED. UC02 keychain light - retired. UC01 keychain light - retired. HP11 headlamp and the awe-inspiring TK70 - are so long retired, they aren't even on the Web site! True, the TK70 puts out the same lumens on high as my little headlamp...but unlike the headlamp, it will do that for an hour straight.

Ever hopeful,
Bill

There's a second hand one in the WTS section for$15.

There's a second hand one in the WTS section for$15.

Hello Bill,

Any info updated, have you got your own one repaired?

fenix1 said:

Hello Bill,

Any info updated, have you got your own one repaired?

Click to expand...

At last my arm is whole again! Matt Taylor of Notsora (Canadian importer and service) e-mailed me on Friday to say it was on it's way. I have been haunting the mailbox every day since and today the postman brought me my repaired LD02, complete with a new clip, replacing the whole battery tube. Apparently they had to order in the battery tube as this is an old model, which took a couple of extra weeks.

Popped in an Eneloop and was happy to see all three levels coming up in fine shape. ( I almost said "delighted" but really I'm "relighted".)

Now to tell the friendly folk at MEC where to direct future warranty claims for Fenix products.

Very happy to have this back...now the Quark AA can go back to nightstand duty, it's a little big for the dress pants pocket, and the LD02 is once again clipped to my Leatherman Squirt, making a very handy package that solves so many daily problems. Anything I can't fix between those two is a big enough problem that it's worth going for the toolbox.

Bill

( I guess this is the reason for paying more than $20 for a keychain light...you can get it fixed.)

Cool, glad to hear it turned out well!

Since I presume me and Bill were not alone in our frustration with the failed LD02 switch I am sharing my fix here. Mine stopped working after a battery leak (never using alkaline again). I was struggling to figure out how the tailswitch could have been mounted in the battery body with no obvious 2 holes or anything to remove it. Realized upon very close inspection that the body is actually made from two pieces screwed together. I had some difficulty unscrewing the cap but managed to do it without damaging the body (lefty-loosey, there is also an o-ring seal - nice Fenix!). The threads seemed to be covered in some sort of threadlocking compound so I was lucky it came loose. Removing the switch was easy after that - it slides right out of the cap - first bronze (or copper) washer, switch, transparent washer and finally rubber cap. I managed to get the switch clicking again after flushing it with alcohol and air blasting the debris out. On my frustration, it still didn't provide contact. I then pushed the switch out of its aluminum housing sleeve (using a spent 45-70 casing for support) and noticed two thin contacts were broken off (or corroded through) so there was no contact between the switch and its aluminum sleeve. I could further disassemble the switch by separating the body in two parts at the line where those (broken-off) contacts were supposed to protrude. Be careful because the switch is held together by four plastic pins sticking out of the upper body going into corresponding holes in the lower body (I only managed to break one). I used thin strips of aluminum duct tape to establish contact between the contact ring (in the switch) and the aluminum sleeve. Reassembled the switch and reinserted it into the cap, screwing it back onto the battery body (I thoroughly cleaned everything with alcohol before and put some o-ring grease on the seal and the threads). Repair worked like a charm.


LD02 disassembled at last (note thread locker residue on the threads)


corrosion from batt leakage did its best to ruin this jewel (cleaned and applied Birchwood Casey black touch-up)


there was clearly some nasty stuff in the switch (see the rim) and there was no contact when clicked


45-70 brass was just the support I needed to push the switch out of its alu sleeve


got the little clicky switch apart - the plate with four holes must make contact with aluminum sleeve (note broken pin, spring is missing)


(real) duct tape - aluminum - was the perfect material to repair the switch and ensure contact between the inside contact plate and the alu sleeve