Lumintop EDC18 Flashlight Review

zeroair

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Aug 6, 2016
Messages
130
Lumintop EDC18 Flashlight Review


Lumintop had great success with the FW series, and expanded it greatly. They also went a different directly – a more standard light but with an e-switch on the side. That's the EDC18, and here's my testing of it!

Official Specs and Features

Here's a link to the official product page.
Versions

There's just one body of the EDC18, but it's available in three emitter choices: Cree XP-L HI (5000K or 6500K), Nichia 219CT (4000K) or Luminus SST20 (4000K).
Price and Coupon

The EDC18 usually retails for around $49.95.

Short Review

I liked the FW series lights, and I like the EDC18 at least as much. It's a completely different, exactly the same experience. I have to say that I definitely lean toward this EDC18 because it seems much more robust – that's at least in part because the head-e-switch doesn't require the inner sleeve that the FW lights require. That sleeve caused a bunch of issues, which will never be a problem in the EDC18!
Long Review

The Big Table

Lumintop EDC18
Emitter:Cree XP-L HI (5000K)
Price in USD at publication time:$42.99
Cell:1×18650
Turbo (no temp calibration) RuntimeHigh (no temp calibration) Runtime
LVP?Stepdown
Switch Type:E-Switch
Quiescent Current (A):?
On-Board Charging?No
Claimed Lumens (lm)2800
Measured Lumens (at 30s)872 (31.1% of claim)* ^
Claimed Throw (m)200
Candela (Calculated) in cd (at 30s)265lux @ 4.07m = 4390cd
Throw (Calculated) (m)132.5 (66.3% of claim)* ^
All my Lumintop reviews!
* Measurement disclaimer: I am an amateur flashlight reviewer. I don't have $10,000 or even $1,000 worth of testing equipment. I test output and such in PVC tubes!! Please consider claims within 10% of what I measure to be perfectly reasonable (accurate, even).
^ After stepdown, 30s.

What's Included



  • Lumintop EDC18 Flashlight
  • Lanyard
  • Spare o-ring (2)
  • Split ring
  • Glow ring
  • Pocket clip
  • Glow diffuser
  • Manual
Package and Manual




Standard Lumintop package. Also standard Lumintop manual. Both of these are good things.



Actually I'm going to go out on this manual and say it's not just typical, it's exceptional.
Build Quality and Disassembly


This light feels quite hefty and substantial for a single 18650 light. It is by no means extra but it does have some body weight. And of course the head has a bump out for the switch. Still it's a very small 18650 light!





Lumintop includes this glow gasket, which should be easy to install (I can do a video on that if anyone needs it?) Just unscrew the bezel (use a kitchen gripper or something) and then drop out the optic, and drop in the gasket).

This gasket is surprisingly flexible, and not at all like the other gaskets I've had and installed.


The head has these cutouts which I have a feeling could be used for tritium vials, but they're not the typical shape (they're more rounded out, and shallower). But I think they'd work.
Also note the cooling area on the head. You have to think how much output this light has, and how much mass – there are certain realities about lights like this that are (with current technology) unavoidable. The light will heat up fast. That heat has limited places to go. The light will lower output in an effort to deal with that head. It is what it is.



The threads on this triple are very smooth. They're square cut and fairly fine, long, and anodized. You might want to lightly unscrew the tailcap like I do, to mechanically lock out the light.

The tailcap has a magnet, too.

The cell tube is completely removable (making way for an easy 18350 version?) Also the cell tube is not reversible, and the ideal way to swap cells is through the tailcap end.

I love the knurling on this light. Just love it. It's just right. Grippy enough, but not the least bit sharp. Exactly what I wanted the Wowtac A6 to be, regarding knurling.

Head and tail both have springs. So using any type 18650 in this light shouldn't be a problem, though it's going to pull quite hard on those protected cells – protection could be an issue. A flat top unprotected cell will be best.


Size and Comps

Weight: Approximately 76.5 g without cells
Size: 27.8 mm Ø head x 93.9 mm length
















Importantly, here's how it stacks up against the FW3A.



Retention and Carry

Included with the EDC18 is a steel deep carry friction fit pocket clip. It's a plain clip, but very effective and useful. It just barely brushes the head, when the head is being unscrewed. But like I said, don't do it that way – remove the tailcap to swap cells.




The clip can go on head or tail end of the cell tube. As pictured above is the "deep carry" direction.

Also included is a lanyard, which attaches only on the tailcap hole, seen below. The pocket clip does not have any holes for connection of the lanyard.

Since the clip is reversible, the EDC18 can technically be used on the bill of a cap, though it might be a little heavy.
Power and Runtime

The Lumintop EDC18 is powered by a single 18650. I've used a Vapcell H25, which is a high current, lower capacity flat top unprotected cell for my runtime tests.
The cell goes into the body with the positive end toward the emitters (as usual).

I performed three runtimes. Two – Turbo and High without calibrating the thermal properties of the light. And finally a turbo run after calibrating the thermals to have a very broad range.


Surprisingly the calibrated run doesn't really seem all that much different or better. There are two possibilities – one the light is properly calibrated from the factory (preferable, but less likely). Or that the light is going to step down quickly anyway because massive output like this creates massive heat, and that heat needs a place to go. If it can't find a place, the body heats up excessively, and output steps down.

I didn't really observe LVP on bench power. But in the runtimes, as you can see above, the output steps down so dramatically that you won't miss the fact that your cell is low. And the stepdown happens at or above 3V, so your cell is generally protected.
Modes and Currents

This is the stepped output group.
ModeMode Claimed Output (lm)Claimed RuntimeMeasured LumensTailcap Amps
8872 (3810 @0s)[FET]
7580 (905 @0s)2.30
66911.40
54060.80
41980.38
31030.18
2380.07
110.01
PWM

There's PWM on all modes but the top two. It's not very bad PWM, though.









For reference, here's a baseline shot, with all the room lights off and almost nothing hitting the sensor. And here's the worst PWM light I have ever owned. Also one of the very first lights I ordered directly from China!
User Interface and Operation

A side e-switch is utilized in the EDC18. There's a green emitter behind the switch, which is black except for a clear Lumintop logo.




The UI here is ToyKeeper's Anduril, which at this point is very well covered. I've reviewed other lights with it, too. Here's ToyKeeper's UI graphic:
anduril-ui.png

Here's a UI table anyway!
StateActionResult
OffHoldOn (Low)
OffClickOn (Mode Memory)
OffClick 2xHighest Hybrid Mode
OffClick 3xBlinkie Mode Group
OffClick 4xLockout
OffClick 5xMomentary
OffClick 6xMuggle
OffClick, Click, HoldStrobe Group (Mode Memory Strobe)
Strobe GroupClick 2xStrobe Cycle (Candle > Bike Flasher > Party Strobe > Tactical Strobe > Lightning Storm)
Blinkie Mode GroupClick 2xBlinke Cycle (Sunset > Beacon > TempCheck > BattCheck)
OnClick 3xSwitch between Stepped and Smooth Ramp
OnClick 4xRamp Configuration
TempCheckClick 4xThermal Configuration
BeaconClick 4xBeacon Configuration
LockoutClick 4xOff
Strobe GroupClickOff
(Basically) OnClickOff
CandleClick 3x30 minute timer to off
Strobe GroupHoldHeighten selected mode (Make faster or brighter)
Strobe GroupClick, HoldLessen selected mode (Make slower or dimmer)
OnClick 2xFET Turbo
Ramp Configuration[Wait for Single flash] Click N time for level N.Selection of the "Low" you like best by clicking 1, 2, 3, etc. where 1, 2, 3, etc are different levels of low.
Ramp Configuration[Wait for Second flash] Click N time for 1+Turbo-N.Selection of the "Ceiling" you like best by clicking 1, 2, 3, etc. where 1, 2, 3, etc are different Ceiling levels.
Ramp Configuration[Wait for Third flash] Click for how many steps you want in Stepped mode.Sets Number of Steps.
Thermal Configuration[Wait for First flash] Click for N times for N degrees C.Displays Current Temperature.
Thermal Configuration[Wait for Second flash] Click for N times for 30C + N.Sets Temperature Limit.
Beacon Configuration[Wait for First flash] Click for N times N seconds per flashSets Beacon Speed.
If you want to see how to calibrate the thermals, see this part of the FW1A review.
LED and Beam

BangGood kindly asked me what emitters I'd like and I chose the Cree XP-L HI. For a couple of reasons. First, they're usually a little more expensive, and I wanted to see if they're worth it. Secondly, I happen to really like Cree XP-L HI emitters.

The optic is just called a "standard optic" but is easily replaceable for others if you like, or even a tritium leg optic. With the Cree, I think a narrow optic would be ideal.

The glow diffuser fits easily, and even can be pressed all the way over the head.



These beamshots are always with the following settings: f8, ISO100, 0.3s shutter, and manual 5000K exposure.








Tint vs BLF-348 (Killzone 219b version)


I compare everything to the Killzone 219b BLF-348, because it's inexpensive and has the best tint!
Conclusion

What I like


  • Preferable build characteristics over the FW series
  • Very nice build quality
  • Nice use of Anduril
  • Emitter choices
What I don't like


  • A bigger mass head would be good, to deal with all the heat

Notes


  • This light was provided by BangGood for review. I was not paid to write this review.
  • This content originally appeared at zeroair.org. Please visit there for the best experience!
 

Fireclaw18

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
2,408
I highly recommend the EDC18. It's a great light.

The switch is excellent. It's fairly stiff and requires pressure in the exact center to depress.

It might seem like a protruding rubber switch boot would be at risk of accidental pocket activation. But the reality is the switch is so well done, there's virtually no risk this light will accidentally activate. So far I've had zero accidental activations and all posts I've read from others with this light have reported the same. I haven't seen anyone report an accidental pocket activation with the EDC18.

For those who do not want a magnet in the tailcap: The tailcap's threads are compatible with those from an aluminum Emisar D4. I use the tailcap from a black original version Emisar D4 on mine. I had to wedge in a ring of solder braid at the bottom in order to make a good connection, but otherwise it was painless.
 
Last edited:

JaguarDave-in-Oz

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
905
Location
Australian bush
I have this torch and I really like it.

The best aspect of the torch is the switch button. I stopped carrying side switch torches about nine years ago when I had a Zebralight SC50 that was constantly switching on in my trouser pocket by accident. I decided to try again with the EDC18 and I've carried this torch in my trouser pocket for weeks now and it has never accidently switched on.

The EDC18 switch doesn't need shrouding, it sits quite proudly of the torch but it's so superbly designed that it allows very positive clicking but will not switch accidently. This morning I compared it to an Emisar D4V2 switch and they are chalk and cheese, Emisar switch is very light and will most definitely need the shrouding of the raised surround to avoid accidental trouser pocket activation for pocket carry (my D4V2 came with raised switch surround/shroud so I wil test that soon) but the Lumintop would be good in most people's circumstances just as it is.

The illuminated rabbit in the switch is nice, I can use it to see the time on my watch when I'm out in the bush at night but it's too bright. If I set the torch down in my paddock and walk away I can see the green light from at least fifty yards away (though that will help someone who drops it a lot). It could be half the brightness and still be effective.

I replaced my EDC18 optic with a carco 10507 for a sligthly tighter beam. That meant I had to find a glass lens to go on top (used one off a FW3A) because the EDC18 optic has a plastic lens moulded on top of its optic hence no separate glass lens. Screwing the bezel out to do this changeover job was easy due to the two little cutouts on the inside face of the bezel.

The torch body surface feels really nice and grippy in the hand though the matt finish anodising does make it feel always dirty in my hand (a personal feeling) and I'd rather have it made in the normal more smooth anodisation. For those who care about appearances, the ano does get scratched pretty easy when pulling the clip on and off (and least it did on mine), it's a workign torch for me so I dont care about that, mine all get seriously scratched up anyway. The clip itself, however, is great. It's strong n a shirt pocket and smooth feelling in the hand and I actually used it on my HDS rotary for a while to great effect.

I had to file down the edges of the lanyard ring in the tailcap, they were way too sharp in my pocket. The tailcap has an embedded magnet that I use all the time. It works ok but if it was a tad stronger it would be perfection.

Unlike the anduril on its sister FW3A, the version in my EDC18 has switchable manual/automatic memory. To me, this is the exact way a memory feature should be. Those who want the torch to switch on in the last mode used can have that by setting the memory to "automatic" but those (me) who want a particular brightness level every time it switches on can toggle it to "manual" and it will work that way.

I've never tried the strobes are any of that stuff, I have no use for it but I assume they work as described.

There is also supposedly a 18350 barrel on the way by one of the sellers and that will make this torch perfection-in-my-pocket.
 

mikekoz

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 19, 2007
Messages
1,281
That has to be the most in depth review of a flashlight I have ever read! Great job Zeroair! The EDC 18 looks like the "meat and potatoes" version of the FW3A!! :D:cool:
 

zeroair

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Aug 6, 2016
Messages
130
I forgot to also mention, my EDC18 arrived accurately temp calibrated out of the box. Can't ask better than that.

Right- and the similarity between "before calibration" and "after calibration" (dang that was a better way to say it than I did in the graphs...) supports that. It would seem that this one's already calibrated. Which is a very, very good thing.

That has to be the most in depth review of a flashlight I have ever read! Great job Zeroair! The EDC 18 looks like the "meat and potatoes" version of the FW3A!! :D:cool:

Thank you for the kind words! And yeah, I still really like both lights, but I'd probably reach for the EDC18 over the FW3. FW1 of course is special.
 

zeroair

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Aug 6, 2016
Messages
130
There is also supposedly a 18350 barrel on the way by one of the sellers and that will make this torch perfection-in-my-pocket.

Sorry I missed this before! Yes, I'm glad there will be an 18350 tube for this light. I think it'll be a good move. That said, it's quite nice in 18650 format, too.
 

regulator

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 22, 2006
Messages
1,221
I got one for Christmas and like it. I changed out the optic for the Carco 10507 and like the beam profile much better. Still good spill but has a hotspot instead of almost all flood - thanks to others for informing about this inexpensive and easy mod.

I ordered the CREE XPL hi 5000 version and it has a great neutral tint - one of the best out of all my CREE lights. It's so neutral I need to check it's not a Nichia.

One disappointment, mine did not come with the glow in dark gasket that fits under the optic. Where do you get them?
 

TruSound

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Dec 25, 2019
Messages
1
Hey Gang,

Happy holidays to all first off.

Question for you guys...I just purchased one of these EDC18's and would like to upgrade from the plastic lens to glass or even better, sapphire, and and all help with this is appreciated.
 

BobbyRS

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 21, 2005
Messages
267
Hey Gang,

Happy holidays to all first off.

Question for you guys...I just purchased one of these EDC18's and would like to upgrade from the plastic lens to glass or even better, sapphire, and and all help with this is appreciated.

For a glass lens, I've heard this Borofloat lens works well. As for a sapphire lens, I just ordered this one from NealsGadgets.

Welcome to CPF!
 

zeroair

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Aug 6, 2016
Messages
130
One disappointment, mine did not come with the glow in dark gasket that fits under the optic. Where do you get them?
Mine came with the glow gasket - sorry! I don't know where they can be purchased separately.

Question for you guys...I just purchased one of these EDC18's and would like to upgrade from the plastic lens to glass or even better, sapphire, and and all help with this is appreciated.
Never purchased a lens like that, so I can't help you there. Sorry!

For a glass lens, I've heard this Borofloat lens works well. As for a sapphire lens, I just ordered this one from NealsGadgets.
Thanks Bobby!
 

5S8Zh5

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
1,745
Location
U.S.A.
If it came without a magnet I'd have one already. I don't usually chew my carrots twice, but magnets and watches do not play well together.
 

Fireclaw18

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
2,408
If it came without a magnet I'd have one already. I don't usually chew my carrots twice, but magnets and watches do not play well together.


I feel the same way. Though for me it's more about the credit cards in my wallet than a watch.

Fortunately, the tailcap threads on the EDC18 match those on my first generation black Emisar D4. It was able to screw all the way down quite securely. The thread length was slightly different and did not make electrical contact, but this was easily fixed by bending some copper solder braid into a C-ring and wedging it between the tailcap and the body tube.

Result: An EDC18 with no magnet. And it's a bit lighter and shorter. It also matches perfectly in appearance and looks like it came that way from the manufacturer.
 

Thetinsnail

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Aug 20, 2016
Messages
2
I highly recommend the EDC18. It's a great light.

The switch is excellent. It's fairly stiff and requires pressure in the exact center to depress.

It might seem like a protruding rubber switch boot would be at risk of accidental pocket activation. But the reality is the switch is so well done, there's virtually no risk this light will accidentally activate. So far I've had zero accidental activations and all posts I've read from others with this light have reported the same. I haven't seen anyone report an accidental pocket activation with the EDC18.

For those who do not want a magnet in the tailcap: The tailcap's threads are compatible with those from an aluminum Emisar D4. I use the tailcap from a black original version Emisar D4 on mine. I had to wedge in a ring of solder braid at the bottom in order to make a good connection, but otherwise it was painless.

Sorry to resurrect and old thread, but didn't want to start a new one for such a simple question, and this quote perfectly sums up my question.
I recently bought an EDC18 and have a question about the button.

On mine, the button activates with a gentle press or a full click press. This doesn't seem correct to me. It should be one or the other. For a few days I was wondering why this switch was so bad and thought someone must have modded it by now, but when i search, all I found where people complimenting how good the switch was.

So then I realised mine might be defective.

So can anyone confirm if it should need a full click to activate? Hope I don't have to return it.
I'm up for soldering a new switch on, but I heard the electronics are glued in so not easy to get too.
 

Thetinsnail

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Aug 20, 2016
Messages
2
Mine only activates with a full click. Of course, clicking and holding also activates moonlight (or your lowest setting).

thanks for the reply. It seems that mine is not working properly.

mine also seems to have a different shaped bezel to all the photos i've seen. Perhaps lumintop changed the design a bit and messed things up.
 
Top