Anyone reviewed the Maratac Titanium AAA Rev 5 flashlight yet?

Thetasigma

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Hard to say what has changed as they don't bother making sure their description is up to date and their output and runtime ratings are usually very optimistic.

As for trit slots, a trit is thicker than anywhere you could stick one pretty much, would have to make the light larger in some dimension which they likely won't do, especially when basic functional requests are ignored
 

nzoomed

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Hard to say what has changed as they don't bother making sure their description is up to date and their output and runtime ratings are usually very optimistic.

As for trit slots, a trit is thicker than anywhere you could stick one pretty much, would have to make the light larger in some dimension which they likely won't do, especially when basic functional requests are ignored


Thats why I was keen to see a review before buying it. From memory the runtime on the 5th revision seems way more than i recall on the previous model(s).
Trit slots shouldnt make it much bulkier, the Lumintop Ant has a provision at the base, as does my Ultratac K18. They take the tiny vials that are only 1.5mm diameter and 6mm long.
Plenty of space on many different models that Ive seen and all it takes is them to mill out a groove during manufacture.
Im surprised we dont see this as standard on larger models. Trying to find your torch in the dark can be one of the most annoying things at times.
 

lion504

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S4 isn't enough data to determine tint and CRI. Wish they'd more clearly ID the emitter.
 

jon_slider

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Looks like they have a 5th revision and its specs look impressive for an AAA flashlight.

Im a big fan of the Lumintop AAA lights (Maratac, Beta, Worm, Tool, IYP)
here are a few of mine, the only one with a stock LED is on the far right (massdrop CuTool head w 219c 4000k)
aRgu5J3l.jpg

Tool and Maratac heads lego..

And I appreciate the appeal of Titanium.
I agree a trit slot would be a great idea.. not hard to do.. if there is a will..
and fwiw, Ive heard some people have installed a tritium in the slot in the pocket clip..

I suggest you buy one and let us know your thoughts. Be prepared for gritty threads, typical of Ti Lights.. There are lubricants that will mask that galling feature.

Dont get caught up in the lumen and runtime specs.. its just a typical aaa light. imo they are great for use on low and medium modes. I dont recommend relying on the High mode, it is unregulated and only lasts about 30 minutes of declining brightness. (and no it wont make the ridiculous high lumen levels claimed).

Buy the light because you want a cute little Ti Twisty, not because it has some ridiculous max lumen claims. btw the price on the countycom site is excellent, you can pay double if you prefer to shop the bay.. lol

S4 isn't enough data to determine tint and CRI. Wish they'd more clearly ID the emitter.

Its just a typical Low CRI, Cool White LED, supposedly xp-g2.. nothing special.. if we wait, there may be a High CRI version coming... or, some people may take it upon themselves to mod the LED...

Lumintop is now shipping aaa lights w xp-g3 that make 120 lumens of Low CRI (drop.com Tool w 6000k xp-g3).. I would not be surprised if that is what actually ends up being in the Ti Maratac.
 
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nzoomed

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There video lists the outputs and runtimes.

I would rather look at independent data rather than going by their runtimes which some are claiming is questionable.

Im a big fan of the Lumintop AAA lights (Maratac, Beta, Worm, Tool, IYP)
here are a few of mine, the only one with a stock LED is on the far right (drop.com CuTool head)
aRgu5J3l.jpg

Tool and Maratac heads lego..

And I appreciate the appeal of Titanium.
I agree a trit slot would be a great idea.. not hard to do.. if there is a will..
and fwiw, Ive heard some people have installed a tritium in the slot in the pocket clip..

I suggest you buy one and let us know your thoughts. Be prepared for gritty threads, typical of Ti Lights.. There are lubricants that will mask that galling feature.

Dont get caught up in the lumen and runtime specs.. its just as typical aaa light. imo they are great for use on low and medium modes. I dont recommend relying on the High mode, it is unregulated and only lasts about 30 minutes of declining brightness. (and no it wont make the ridiculous high lumen levels claimed).

Buy the light because you want a cute little Ti Twisty, not because it has some ridiculous max lumen claims. btw the price on the countycom site is excellent, you can pay double if you prefer to shop the bay.. lol



Its just a typical Low CRI, Cool White LED, supposedly xp-g2.. nothing special.. if we wait, there may be a High CRI version coming... or, some people may take it upon themselves to mod the LED...

Lumintop is now shipping aaa lights w xp-g3 that make 120 lumens of Low CRI (drop.com Tool).. I would not be surprised if that is what actually ends up being in the Ti Maratac.

OK thats helpful, are you saying that the Maratac is made by Lumintop?
I wanted to go for titanium because its much lighter than copper, brass or stainless. I didnt know that titanium lights had the same problems with a gritty/squeaky/grippy thread like aluminium ones do. This was always an issue for my maglite from new back in the day and I have been looking at the various lubricant options.

I dont need full brightness all the time, probably running on medium most of the time. What attracted to me is the specs of 65 lumens for 10 hours. If that claim is accurate, thats perfect. My current ultratac K18 light AAA light can do 25 lumens for up to 5.7 hours, so even if those specs are not accurate and can give me over double the brightness of my current flashlight and only lasted about the same, I would not complain I guess, but obviously the longer running time the better.
 

jon_slider

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the specs of 65 lumens for 10 hours

fwiw the lumintop tool specs for medium with a cool white low cri LED is 32 lumens for 10 hours
http://www.lumintop.com/tool-aaa.html
ime the lumintop specs are accurate
imo the specs on the Maratac site have multiple "typos"

they are very nice lights, imo you cannot go wrong
even if the specs are inaccurate, wishful thinking, alternative facts, or they defy the laws of physics, and common sense (which is not that common). And even if the video says an aaa weights 16 grams... trust, but verify :)

I just bought one
I blame you.. lol
thank you :)
 
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nzoomed

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fwiw the lumintop tool specs for medium with a cool white low cri LED is 32 lumens for 10 hours
http://www.lumintop.com/tool-aaa.html
ime the lumintop specs are accurate
imo the specs on the Maratac site have multiple "typos"

they are very nice lights, imo you cannot go wrong
even if the specs are inaccurate, wishful thinking, alternative facts, or they defy the laws of physics, and common sense (which is not that common). And even if the video says an aaa weights 16 grams... trust, but verify :)

I just bought one
I blame you.. lol
thank you :)

I do like the tool and very nearly bought one earlier this year. Was only put off because no tritium slot. I looked at the Ant also, but am very confused why the Ant only has 3.5 hours runtime at 30 lumens while the Tool can run up to 10 hours at 32 lumens?
They both have the same Cree XP-G2 (R5) LED emitter.

Anyway, very interested to see how you find yours when you get it ;)
 

340pd

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I have a few Maratac AAA in every metal they offer. The Ti version is light but the threads on it are nowhere near as smooth as the brass version. In order of smoothness with brass being the best,
Brass
Copper
Steel
Aluminum
Titanium
 
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jon_slider

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confused why the Ant only has 3.5 hours runtime at 30 lumens while the Tool can run up to 10 hours at 32 lumens?

the tool can do 32 lumens, but not for 10 hours. 3.5 hours is more realistic
buy whatever light you like, or both
assume the outputs will all be the same, and the runtimes will be be same, from the same battery type

I respectfully suggest you stop trying to make sense of specs, and just enjoy buying a light you like

fwiw
I just did a runtime test on maximum for the latest Copper Tool w XP-G3 from drop.com, using a freshly recharged eneloop:
start test 0 minutes 122 lumens
after 10 minutes 115 lumens
after 20 minutes 109 lumens
after 30 minutes 66 lumens
after 40 minutes 1 lumen, 0.87 volts on the eneloop

High Mode, eneloop:
VAPjZzUl.png


I have a few Maratac AAA in every metal they offer.

congrats!
what lube do you use?
 
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nzoomed

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the tool can do 32 lumens, but not for 10 hours. 3.5 hours is more realistic
buy whatever light you like, or both
assume the outputs will all be the same, and the runtimes will be be same, from the same battery type

I respectfully suggest you stop trying to make sense of specs, and just enjoy buying a light you like

fwiw
I just did a runtime test on maximum for the latest Copper Tool w XP-G3 from drop.com, using a freshly recharged eneloop:
start test 0 minutes 122 lumens
after 10 minutes 115 lumens
after 20 minutes 109 lumens
after 30 minutes 66 lumens
after 40 minutes 1 lumen, 0.87 volts on the eneloop

Well, if I can find a more efficient light than what I have, obviously I would be happy.
Any chance you can do a test on the tool to see how long the tool lasts on medium for? Even if it does not live up to the 10 hours they claim, it does not bother me too much if I get at least the same runtime on medium, it still looks a nice light.
Anyway, My ultratac K18 can do 5.7 hours on medium (25 lumens) on an AAA. If I can get at least that long on medium on a tool or ant, I will probably grab one.

Doesnt bother me too much if brightness drops down a little, as long as I could get a few hours of light over 10 lumens, I could cope with that OK. ( I want to use with a diffuser as a lantern essentially)

I do still like my Ultratac very much and will probably post a review on it here sometime soon.
I have not found the perfect light for me yet however, but the Ultratac ticked alot of boxes for me, e.g tritium slot, good battery life, compatible with lithium batteries and high CRI LED. Only real downside for me is I would have liked a titanium version, but nothing wrong with the stainless, just a bit heavier.
Still want to grab another light however, and lumintop products look decent quality.
 

jon_slider

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nzoomed said:
My ultratac K18 can do 5.7 hours on medium (25 lumens) on an AAA.

that spec for runtime may not be accurate
this test shows the Ultratac runs 3.5 hours to 50% on medium w Alkaline

click pic for the full review:
selfbuilt said:

since you mention being interested in Titanium aaa options such as the Maratac and Tool, here are a couple more to consider
Manker E02
Thrunite Ti

each has its pros and cons, I hope you find one you enjoy
 
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nzoomed

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that spec for runtime may not be accurate
this test shows the Ultratac runs 3.5 hours to 50% on medium w Alkaline

click pic for the full review:


since you mention being interested in Titanium aaa options such as the Maratac and Tool, here are a couple more to consider
Manker E02
Thrunite Ti

each has its pros and cons, I hope you find one you enjoy

Thanks for this.
I had looked at the thrunite some time back and was probably put off by the modes, but looking how bright 10 lumens actually is after experimenting with various lights, I would probably be happy enough with that.
I can always mill out a tritium slot easy enough on the back too :)
Thrunite seem to be pretty modest on their runtimes too, they state 6.3 hours on low, but these tests seem to suggest they got the best part of 9 hours out of it which is impressive.

Regarding my Ultratac, mine is the V2019 version which is a bit different than the one in that review. Im not sure if the emitter is much different, but the specs on my packet are slightly different than mine.

Just a couple of questions regarding the Thrunite.
They seem to have a few different models.

I saw this model here, its got a bit more power on max, but they claim the same 6.3 hour runtime on low.
http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-ti-xp-l-v6-max-162-lumen-titanium-keychain-light/

Here is the Ti3
http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-ti3-v2-xp-g2-120-lumen-flashlight/

The XP-LV6 has a different emitter, looking at the price, im assuming that the Cree XP-L V4 it uses is a newer and more expensive emitter than an XP-G2?
I need to go and check the datasheets, but im assuming it must be a bit more efficient?
 
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jon_slider

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XP-L … XP-G2...

yes, they have different outputs
the Titanium Thrunite you linked is a very unique light

I have one, and I think it is worth considering.. great form factor, on sale, has a uniquely sublumen low that people either love or hate…. its that low..

otoh, choice of LED also affects the color quality of the light
the brighter ones tend to be greener. I have a strong personal bias against brighter and greener Low CRI LEDs.

I prefer to use lights with High CRI LEDs, even if they are half as bright…

so for my High CRI priority:
the Tool and Manker E02 offer High CRI options, and they are clickies
the E02 is unique in the group, as it is a right angle light with a tailmagnet.. plus it has a programmable low, you may find those features interesting and useful in your application …

the brighter Maratac and Thrunite are not High CRI, and they are twisties
I bought the Maratac knowing I would change the LED to something I prefer. I want the Maratac MLH mode sequence.

For my taste the LMH of the Thrunite is not ideal, since I most seldom use the first ultra low mode.

depends how you rank your priorities, more brightness is a trade for less CRI, twisties are shorter than clickies… MLH vs LMH preferences.. etc

fwiw, atm you can order a High CRI Titanium Tool from drop.com , I dont like that it is blue, and LMH, but you might :)

good luck with your choices
I hope you share your impressions on lights you buy...
 

nzoomed

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yes, they have different outputs
the Titanium Thrunite you linked is a very unique light

I have one, and I think it is worth considering.. great form factor, on sale, has a uniquely sublumen low that people either love or hate…. its that low..

otoh, choice of LED also affects the color quality of the light
the brighter ones tend to be greener. I have a strong personal bias against brighter and greener Low CRI LEDs.

I prefer to use lights with High CRI LEDs, even if they are half as bright…

so for my High CRI priority:
the Tool and Manker E02 offer High CRI options, and they are clickies
the E02 is unique in the group, as it is a right angle light with a tailmagnet.. plus it has a programmable low, you may find those features interesting and useful in your application …

the brighter Maratac and Thrunite are not High CRI, and they are twisties
I bought the Maratac knowing I would change the LED to something I prefer. I want the Maratac MLH mode sequence.

For my taste the LMH of the Thrunite is not ideal, since I most seldom use the first ultra low mode.

depends how you rank your priorities, more brightness is a trade for less CRI, twisties are shorter than clickies… MLH vs LMH preferences.. etc

fwiw, atm you can order a High CRI Titanium Tool from drop.com , I dont like that it is blue, and LMH, but you might :)

good luck with your choices
I hope you share your impressions on lights you buy...

Thanks for that, I think I will definitely go for a thrunite.
When I first looked at it, I too got put off the sublumen (0.5lumen) mode that I would rarely ever use.

After going with a high CRI LED on my last light, I would never go back to a cool white. My Ultratac has a Nichica 219C LED and its amazing.
I see the thrunite has a neutral white and cool white option. I have no idea how the CRI would be on the neutral white option, but they dont seem to have any in stock which is a pain as i would have ordered one as I speak.
I will take a look at the Manker too and see what I think. Programmable low is a brilliant idea!

I might grab a light from drop.com fwiw, I do remember seeing those come through in the email the other day. For some reason, I didnt think the price was any better. Will take another look.
 

jon_slider

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Im happy to hear you have learned to appreciate High CRI.

Unfortunately the Thrunite is not High CRI, neither the cool, nor the Neutral White either.

For High CRI choices, I think you are looking at some great options in the Manker and Tool..

enjoy your lights!
Merry Xmas
 

nzoomed

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Im happy to hear you have learned to appreciate High CRI.

Unfortunately the Thrunite is not High CRI, neither the cool, nor the Neutral White either.

For High CRI choices, I think you are looking at some great options in the Manker and Tool..

enjoy your lights!
Merry Xmas


Yup, after using a high CRI light, I would never go back, especially for hunting and shooting at night.
Although in this application, I can tolerate it if it means good battery life, etc.
For the price Ill probably grab one anyway, but will definitely grab the likes of a tool also.
 
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nzoomed

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Im happy to hear you have learned to appreciate High CRI.

Unfortunately the Thrunite is not High CRI, neither the cool, nor the Neutral White either.

For High CRI choices, I think you are looking at some great options in the Manker and Tool..

enjoy your lights!
Merry Xmas


Just getting back to CRI, im a bit confused. After checking the colour temp on the led in the thrunite, the colour temp for the neutral white is 3700 - 5000 which is about the same range as the nichia 219c in my other unit which has a CRI of 90.
 

jon_slider

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After checking the colour temp on the led in the thrunite, the colour temp for the neutral white is 3700 - 5000 which is about the same range as the nichia 219c in my other unit which has a CRI of 90.

an LED that is neutral white Color Temperature can be High CRI or Low CRI. The Thrunite LED is about 70 CRI, the nichia LED is about 90 CRI (better at showing red things)

here is a low cri LED
The CRI Ra is 71 (the white bar on the right side of the chart)
the red portion of the CRI test shows CRI R9 is -22
93FLxKGl.png


here is a high cri led
The CRI Ra is 90, the red portion of the CRI test shows CRI R9 is 50
cNzs6zkm.png


focus on the Ra number (this is the normally quoted CRI spec, and the R9 number (this is specifically the Red output of the LED)

Here is a low cri and a high cri light on a wood table.
ZKXiVxxl.jpg

The low cri light has no red output, so the red reflecting color in the wood, cannot be seen under low cri. The wood is not actually green.

most LEDs that are efficient in brightness, are low cri
to produce more red output, requires sacrificing lumens
increasing red output, increases CRI

lumen quantity, vs spectrum quality

low and high cri chicken:
WPi9t0Ql.jpg


and here is a classic example of the differences in CRI
3TMBdGT.png


CRI is subtle, its not obvious like Tint or Color Temperature. Its all about how reds are revealed.
LEDs are not full spectrum, high cri LEDs are an effort to be full spectrum, at the expense of lumens...


btw
tracking says my Ti aaa Maratac comes tomorrow :)
will post some first impressions
 
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