Forward clicky Lumintop Tool AA?

paojerokid

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Sep 22, 2016
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Hi. Has anyone tried replacing the tool aa's reverse clicky tailcap switch with a forward clicky one? Where can we buy such switch? Thanks.
 

1313

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Nov 22, 2006
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No idea but I want one. Would make a great little flashlight.
 

1313

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Nov 22, 2006
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I finally did this 6 months later. I bought the 17mm forward clicky from mountain electronics. Took a little dremeling down the diameter but then it fit right in. I did use a bigger runner tailcap boot from an old surefire but it works fine so far.
 

thermal guy

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I hate reverse clicky switches so bad! I never understand why they are used in lights.
 

1313

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I've thought for a long time how much nicer my Lumintop Tool AA would be with a forward clicky switch.

Me too, that was my main complaint on this light. I guess the clip could be better too.

Heres the hack job on the mountain electronics switch. Drops right in afterwards with a bigger switch boot without a nub inside. It's an e series boot, flashlike found a lumensfactory equivalent on eBay I believe will work.

FC977-F12-8-C82-485-A-8-D93-B1-D2906-BCC07.jpg
 
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1313

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I hate reverse clicky switches so bad! I never understand why they are used in lights.

I do too, I put up with it on really high powered lights that need them but I really wish someone made a reliable high current forward clicky.
 

Flashlike

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Me too, that was my main complaint on this light. I guess the clip could be better too.

Heres the hack job on the mountain electronics switch. Drops right in afterwards with a bigger switch boot without a nub inside.

1313 -- So the boot from the Surefire switch fits into the Tool 2.0 tail cap without having to modify the tail cap (i.e. having to enlarge the hole, etc.)?
What SF switch has the boot that will work? This sounds like a great mod to me! Thanks for posting the pic.
 

1313

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I believe it was an e series tailcap boot but I could be wrong. The tailcap itself was unmodified. Im going to remove the nub on the stock boot and see if that will work instead :thumbsup:

Edit: yep it was an e series boot. The stock boot with nub cut out actually worked fine, no accidental activation or anything, but its not ideal because its putting some tension into the clicky and causes the boot to stick out a little bit. Variation switch to switch might cause it to activate from this alone id imagine. The surefire boot is big/tall enough not to have this issue.
 
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1313

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:buddies: Cheers man. For $3 why not.

I soldered a spring bypass on it today and have ran the efest 9.75a 14500s quite a bit today at 100%. I hope if it was going to melt or fry it would have done it by now because I ran it a lot. My light is modded by Vinh with his driver and an Osram W2.

I had to sand down the diameter until i just took the corners off the square plastic part shown below

57518-AD9-CDA6-41-CA-BA6-C-C09-E7-B4-DC0-F4.png


C67-C33-A6-23-F8-45-A8-B089-821-F49-C26700.png
 
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Flashlike

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I believe it was an e series tailcap boot but I could be wrong. The tailcap itself was unmodified. Im going to remove the nub on the stock boot and see if that will work instead :thumbsup:

Edit: yep it was an e series boot. The stock boot with nub cut out actually worked fine, no accidental activation or anything, but its not ideal because its putting some tension into the clicky and causes the boot to stick out a little bit. Variation switch to switch might cause it to activate from this alone id imagine. The surefire boot is big/tall enough not to have this issue.

I checked the tail cap switch boot diameter on one of my e-series Surefire lights (an E2D-L) and it measures 14mm in diameter. The switch boot on my Lumintop Tool 2.0 measures only 12mm in diameter. It seems like the SF boot would be too large in diameter to fit. I ordered a few different 12mm diameter silicone switch boots from AliExpress so hopefully one of those will work.
 

1313

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Nov 22, 2006
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It takes some wiggle but it works no problem :thumbsup: I used a pen to pop it into place

If you cant find something I have an extra boot that I tested and it works fine, but its super stiff and results in a really hard press. If that would suit somebody shoot a pm and ill mail it to you.
 
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lion504

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Feb 8, 2016
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I hate reverse clicky switches so bad! I never understand why they are used in lights.

I tolerate fwd clickies, but MUCH prefer reverse clickies. Why? First, because after turning on the light, I can change modes without turning the light off. Although it's a minor problem in the grand scheme of things, I really dislike having to "commit" to a mode with a forward clicky. If I get it wrong (meaning I need more or less light than what I initially guestimated with half presses), I have to repeat the entire turn off/turn on/half press process. With the reverse clicky, my *mistake* is easily corrected with half presses. My opinion is that reverse clickies are a much more forgiving complement to 'cycle-through' UIs. Second, reverse clickies allow for illuminated switch boots, which is a feature I love. I hate knocking everything on nightstand over/off as I groggily grope around for the light in the middle of the night. I can't explain the physics of it, but don't think this illumination is possible with a forward clicky.
 
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