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Thread: Hello from South Carolina

  1. #1

    Default Hello from South Carolina

    Hello all. Just found this place. I have a few older surefires Iím looking to update. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

  2. #2
    Flashaholic
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio
    Posts
    319

    Default Re: Hello from South Carolina

    Welcome to the forum. What kind of updating to your Surefire lights do you have in mind? Before answering, you should know that there is a depth of advice and "lessons learned" available in this forum's various threads. I recommend that you start by using the search feature, to identify the topics of greatest interest to you, then read up on what's been done, and to get a better idea of what you might want for yourself, and the range of costs associated with this addiction (sorry, I meant to write "pastime).

    The three upgrades that come immediately to mind regarding original Surefire incandescent lights, are in the areas of battery power, light output, and switch.

    Power Supply. Original Surefire lights are bored for 2xCR123 cells, which means they can also accommodate 16650 li-ion cells, giving you reasonable run times using rechargeable cells, without paying for boring the flashlight body to take 18650 cells. If you want the extra runtime that 18650 cells offer, you'll need to have the light bored, or purchase a pre-bored body (there'a buy/sell/trade forum for this). You might also consider swapping the original single-cell body for a multi-cell body. If you do choose to use a multi-cell body, make absolutely sure that the light engine can handle the input voltage that a multi-cell battery configuration produces.

    Light Output / Drop-In Modules / Lumens & ANSI Lumens/ Candela / Color Temperature. With regard to light output, there are numerous P60 drop-in modules available from multiple reputable vendors (no doubt you'll see references to Nailbender, Malkoff, Overready, and others), offering various emitter configurations (single, triple, and quadruple emitter configurations are all popular), with a selection of input voltage limits (pay special attention to this), in various color temperatures, and even some specialized for single color output (red, blue, green, amber, ultraviolet).

    These drop-in emitters will all have various technical parameters that you should pay attention to, specifically, lumens, lux, type of emitter, and color temperature. Broadly speaking, lumens is a measure of total light output measured at the emitter. There will be inefficiencies in the way the photons bounce around the light engine, and there will be some absorption, due to the kinds of materials used in the light engine's manufacture and the physics of LED's. To better account for this, and to give a more standardized measure of what kind of output you can expect, reputable manufactures and vendors also state the ANSI lumen output (this is a homework topic for you to review on your own). There is also the candela (aka lux) produced by the light, which again broadly speaking is a measure of how much light is focused on a standard area at a standard distance. The higher the lux, the brighter the hotspot. Lumens and candela are not equivalent, and both should be considered when making your selection of a new drop-in emitter (or more likely "emitters" in the plural, since you've joined this forum). The emitter type is it's an encyclopedic subject all its own, so just take it slow and ask the seller about the various options available, for whatever emitter you're looking at. The color temperature is another encyclopedic topic: however, color temps in the 3000-4000 Kelvin range are similar to warm incandescent light; 4500-5000 Kelvin temps are commonly considered to be neutral white; 5000-5500 Kelvin temps are white; and 5500-6500 are more or less pure white, tending toward bluish, with little or no yellow or red. (This is another area where you're going to be spending a lot of time reading up on, along with color rendering index, and tint deviation.)

    Switch. Finally, there are different tailcap switch upgrades, almost all of which offer improvements over the original stock Surefire on-off twist-switch. There are several reputable sellers of switch upgrades who are long-time members of this forum. They stand behind their products. They can offer a world of advice specific to your needs. Don't hesitate to reach out to them.

    You've got quite a bit of reading ahead of you, but you've come to the right place.

    DaveTheDude

    P.S. - You're gonna love it here.

  3. #3
    Flashaholic* kssmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    674

    Default Re: Hello from South Carolina

    Howdy; what part of SC? Iím in the low country

  4. #4

    Default Re: Hello from South Carolina

    Iím in Summerville. Mostly looking for led conversions for M4 and M3. I would like to find a tailcap similar to the RPM V2, but I found his thread stating they have all been sold. Thanks

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