MC3000's stock power adapter for iMAX B6 v2 (non-AC)?

Oiyuk Ti

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 27, 2020
Messages
19
Have got MC3000 and on considerations addinally to have got iMAX B6 V2 (without "AC" suffix). Any ideas if MC3000 stock power adapter DC plug will fit B6's DC input socket (both diameters)?
 

Oiyuk Ti

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 27, 2020
Messages
19
Today I received email from SKYRC with confirmation MC3000's power adapter plug fits iMax B6 V2's DC input socket.
 

HarryN

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 22, 2004
Messages
3,976
Location
Pleasanton (Bay Area), CA, USA
Have you received and started to use the imax B6 V2?

I am looking around for a charger for a 4 S pack of AA batteries. Probably will be Enloops but the final decision has not been made.

It is for my daughter, who is quite intelligent but works a lot of hours, so I don't want a charger that has a long learning curve.

Harry
 

Oiyuk Ti

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 27, 2020
Messages
19
Hi, I am not so far to have got B6 V2. Just under my considerations to order it. I want a replacement for my AccuManager branded by AccuPower. I want to have smaller charger for 9V/8.4V blocks than AccuManager. Have got already charger for AA and AAA, C, D and more, so the new one must be as compact as possible and is allowed to be for block battery only. However if to take a look at available offers I don't find one raising lot of trust. So I tend to take more cache in hand and make investment for future: B6 V2. My car's AGM's might make benefit of this investment too. I get the impression B6 generates learning curve of certain steepness.
 
Last edited:

HarryN

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 22, 2004
Messages
3,976
Location
Pleasanton (Bay Area), CA, USA
Thank you.

I also replied to your thread about the 9 volt block battery requirement.

As far as the car AGM battery, I work with AGM battery packs for the conversion van market. (12, 24 and 48 volt x ~ 100 amp-hr)

There are really two approaches to charging these larger batteries properly:
- Use a charge with a LOT of power if charging from a low state of charge - at least 500 watts and 1000 watts is even better
- Use a small solar panel trickle charger in the dash board window to help keep the battery charged up

In a perfect world the trickle charger would also "pulse".

Both the "pulse method" and the "high current" method are good for the battery because they tend to break up surface related issues.

The 50 watts of charging from the small hobby charger is not terrible but not really enough for "ideal" car battery charging.

I do like the AC / DC input aspect.
 
Last edited:

Oiyuk Ti

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 27, 2020
Messages
19
Thanks for all your inputs. Also that one in another thread - where honestly I had ready my response forum system kicked me out before I was ready to release my text (I learned however how to deal with this situation in future). I liked to say if it concerns the Universe of rechargeables, their charging and discharging I am really a newbie. So far was lucky to learn / understand quite few questions.
Yes, that's interesting with hints for effective charging AGM's and met in past one opinion AGM should truly be charged to 100% due to reason I can't remember. Fortunately mid 2019 I got an inspiration from local automotive brand car dealer. Even such a small solar panel, max charge current 0.6A and connected to battery through ODB2 which I use since that point of time and am happy to had found this solution - mentioned dealer uses those in cars they show open air. Regarding its function don't have lot of information and the distributor and manufacturer are hard to get information from. Therefore it is hard for me to say which charging type it applies. Can make few photos of this solar panel at next occasion. Additional problem arises from car's systems. With its energy recapitulation system the board systems will never allow to charge battery up to 100% from jump start hook.
500W and 1000W are not power levels I like to tinker with, have no experience nor equipment with power those levels. Aren't CTek's the 50W-class charges many are satisfied for? If to give enough charging time should be as good as others.
 
Last edited:

HarryN

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 22, 2004
Messages
3,976
Location
Pleasanton (Bay Area), CA, USA
Every decision involves a trade off of "perfection" vs "it works well enough" or at least "better than before".

The cars with regenerative capability sometimes capture this energy not from the braking, but from the inertia of the engine, alternator, and other items on the drive belt.

When there is heavy demand on the engine, some of them will turn off things like the alternator and air conditioner compressor to free engine power for moving the car better.

At normal constant speeds, they will operate things reasonably normally.

When the brake is pressed, some of them use the rotation inertia of the engine belt drive components to push a large amount of power into the battery pack (by working the alternator very hard).

If a car is sitting still for a long time (weeks) the starting battery can self discharge enough to ruin it.

All of these things are very hard on a battery, and the more often they happen, the worse the effect. Sometimes it is so hard on the battery, that 2 or 3 batteries are used and assigned different functions. I have helped a customer with a project that had 3 batteries from the original car company and we added 4 more for auxiliary functions. The pressure on car manufacturing companies is very intense, so they are forced to reach deeply into the engineering bag of tricks to obtain even small fuel efficiency gains.

In a perfect world, a battery is full charged perfectly, used in a moderate manner, and then recharged fully and not subject in any way to abuse.

In the real world, modern cars abuse batteries much worse than this so it is a matter of being "not as bad as it could be" rather than "perfection."

Small solar panels ~ 5-10 watts can be quite effective at helping to deal with natural battery self discharge challenges. (example power film). If combined with a small solar charge controller, even better. Usually 5-10 watts of solar is not a problem even without a solar charge controller, as the vehicle electronics have some parasitic losses. The times that we are going through now with much less driving of our cars is a good example of a need to do "something" to keep the car batteries from going bad just from sitting there.

1000 watts is in the same range as making coffee, so not a super large amount of power, but more than many are used to paying for. ($300-400)

cTek is a perfectly good product offering. If you live in an area where the temperatures go both fairly hot and fairly cold, it is worth to verify that the charger has a way to deal with this temperature range.

Batteries are an electrochemical device. The charging process is a chemical reaction, and the charging "energy" comes from both "Temperature" and "voltage". If the temperature is low, then the voltage must increase in order to (perfectly) charge. The more ideal chargers have this temperature compensation built into them. If not, then you just accept that what you are doing is better than doing nothing at all - which is still better than it could be.
 
Last edited:
Top