1 watt or 3 watt in an Exe bezel?

How do each of these perform in the Exe incan bezel? What would be the approximate runtime of each at spec if i ran in on the E1e body? I want to make my stock E1e more of a flood light with better color. Is all the hardware currently available to put an LS in the Exe bezel?

My BB500 R2H e1e is EXCELLENT.

The beam patern is awesome.

Tight hotspot, with a VERY WIDE flood.

Not the brightest looking, cuz its throwing light everywhere. But it makes a GREAT indoors light.

I plan to make a bb750 LuxIII e2e soon.

I wouldn't bother with the mod for a 2 cell body. It doesn't throw enough and going with more than 500mA turns it into a real short run light.

It's an excellent mod for an E1e though. All you need is a 13/32 (I think) drill bit, ecan/esink, circuit and LED. Takes about a hour or maybe three, if you've never done it before.

So which one is 'better'? I want the most flood light with a runtime of about 2 hrs regulated off a single 123A (SF E1e Body). Would the 3 watt or the 1 watt be better? What should I drive it to, and what do i need to buy to get this done? E-can, E-sink, something like that?

The beam characteristics of the 1W and 3W luxeons are the same. At levels under 700mA, the 1W will arguably be brighter. The color of the 3W at underdriven levels might be off a little too, although I've had good luck driving them at 500mA.

Personally, I'd go with a Q3J, if I could find one. If you want flood, I believe that there are some R?H side emitters for sale in B/S/T. Other than those, you could just go with a nice TWAJ, TWOJ, or TVOJ.

To get 2 hours on a single 123, you'd have to go with a rediculously low bias. Even a stock KL1 running at 350mA will only give you 1.5 hours, but those circuits are a bit inefficient.

To the point. Knowing what I know now, if I were to build one for myself, this is what I would put together for a nice small, long runtime pocket light.

I'd choose a high dome luxeon according to the color that I like. I tend to like or actually dislike blue tints, so I'd go with a TVOJ. Stay with the lowest forward voltage that you can get. If you don't mind or like the blue tints, go with a TWAJ or TWOJ. If you can get an H vf, go with that.

For the converter, I'd go with a MadMax lite. The MadMaxs will run a battery down to practically nothing. This would make for a very useful pocketlight that won't leave you stranded with a dead battery, since the MM will dim as the battery drains. You'll know when to replace the batt.

Thanks for the info Chop! So how would a SY0L LuxIII do with a Madmax Lite W/O? They are both available at the Shoppe. So now I want all this running in the Stock Exe bezel. I know I need to drill the post off on the inside. Now what sink do i need to use? Is in the e-sink, e-can? Also, I use arctic alumina adhesive right? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to get it right!

Yep, ecan and esink, and AA epoxy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I have a BB500 and R2? i think K.

I dont know about constant on,,, but it ran for almost a month with 5 to 10 minute use each night!

Actually,,, in the next couple days,,, I will be making a LuxIII DB700 one for my E2e /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I need the ecan AND esink? Can you explain what each one is/does? After I drill the post off the bezel, will the ecan/esink fit right in with the lux in the right position? Thanks!

hmm I couldnt find the pic I was looking for, sorry.

Anyhow,
The ecan is what holds the converter board in place, then the esink sits on top the ecan, and the led is epoxied on top the esink.

That is all one "module" when done,,, and it pops right in the E head, like the E head incan bulb assemplys do. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif