Need Flashlight for my Cabin Woods/Camping Environment

Hello- new to this Forum. Searched a bit around but open to your suggestions according to below:


1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light in person from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
__X__This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!

____I don't know yet
____Up to $25.
____Up to $50.
_X___Up to $100.
____Up to $200.
____Up to $300.
____Essentially unlimited.


3) Format:

_X (see below)___I am not sure, please help me decide.
_X___I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained).
__X__I want a self-contained headlamp.
__X__I want a headlamp with an external pack/power source.
____I want a mounted light (typically for a bicycle or vehicle)
____I want a lantern/area light.
____I want a portable spotlight (it may have an external power source).
____Other ____________________________________________


4) Size:

____MICRO - Keychain size.
____TINY - Every day carry (2-4 inches).
__X__SMALL - Every day carry (4-7 inches).
__X__MEDIUM - Holster/belt ring carry. (>7 inches)
____LARGE - Big enough to need its own travel case.
____I don't know/I don't care.


5) Emitter/Light source:

____LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
__X__I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

_X___I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
____I would like a light from a specialty manufacturer (Possibly limited run/Custom).
____I am interested in assembling my own components. (for example a "host" or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a "drop-in" emitter from another source).


7) What power source do you want to use?

____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Alkaline batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
__X__I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Lithium batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D and CR123 sized cells common to most stores (often a cold weather or long storage choice).
__X__I intend to use Rechargeable cells (NiMH or NiCD) based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
__X__I intend to use Rechargeable cells based on less common formats (18500 or 18650 Li-Ion, RCR123, et-al).
__X__I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery pack.
__X__I don't know/I need more information on power sources.

7a) If you have selected a rechargeable option
____I want a light that plugs directly into the wall (literally with prongs built into the light)
____I want a light that has a recharging adapter (your typical "wall wart")
____I want a light that snaps into a cradle (usually mounted on a wall)
____I want a separate/stand-alone charger (this involves removing the batteries to charge)
__X__I don't care


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (1-10 lumens).
____I want an indoor "blackout" light (15-50 lumens)
____I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
__X__I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
__X__I want search and rescue type illumination (800+ lumens).

__X__SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control. Check here if this is acceptable.


9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.

____All Flood: I am doing "arms length" tasks like reading and campsite cooking.
__X__Wide Flood: I want a defined flood area for semi-close tasks like after-dark campsite tasks or working on a car.
____Narrow Flood: I want a sharply defined flood area that will project some distance for tasks like trail walking.
__X__Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill". Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.
____Narrow Throw: I want a beam with a very tight "hot center" and minimal "side-spill". Good for distance viewing, fog, and looking through dense undergrowth.
__X__Turbohead: I want a far-distance projector with a sharply focused spot of light and minimal or zero side-spill. Good for extreme distance and impressing your friends.

9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
____5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
__X__30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
__X__50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I am searching from a helicopter)

10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).

__X__Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
__X__30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).




11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A "night-stand" light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
__X__Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't know.


12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):

____Any size switch will do.
____I need a BIG switch (I'll be using gloves or have very large hands or coordination issues).
____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
____I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
____I want a remote switch (usually found on high-end bicycle headlights)
__X__I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
____I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Oscillating pattern to confuse/blind aka "Police Mode")
____I want SOS mode. (blinks in ...---... emergency pattern)
____I want a beacon mode. (Regular flashes at full power to show location.)
_X___I don't care.
____I don't know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's higher end flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
_X___I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________.

15) Water resistance
__X__None needed
____IPX4 (Splash resistant)
____IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)
____IPX8 (Submersible to greater than 1 meter for 4 hours)

16) Storage conditions
__X__In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
____Emergency kit (long standby periods)
____Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)
____Other_________________________________________ ____


17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.

NO SPECIAL NEEDS

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____"Hybrid" light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking, Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments

Not a headlamp, no primary cells, but it does match other preferences, and it is in stock and on sale, the Zebralight SC62 Cool White 18650 Flashlight, 1000Lm floody thrower. Neutral White or High CRI might be better suited for rural outdoors, depends on preferences. Make sure to look at the other Zebralight flashlights and headlamps, most are under $100 and brighter than 1000Lm, and linked is a previous generation, so you'd miss out on the new programmable interface.

---My Headlamp System---

Last year some black ice tore up my back, neck, head and leg by way of a nasty fall in a dark parking lot walking into work. After that I decided a dedicated headlamp was in order. Much of what you specify was also what I was after. I went with the Fenix HP30R. It can cause a bit of sticker shock but as the saying goes, "buy once, cry once". Let me tell you, it's worth it.

The battery pack doubles as a battery bank which is especially useful since I upgraded to 3500-mAh 18650 batteries. More capacity is always a good thing. The unit has separate lights for flood and throw. Four settings each and can be run simultaneously.

I braided 550-paracord over the cord that runs from the headlamp to the battery pack just to help it stand up to abrasion and abuse which is bound to happen over time. Since I carry a backpack to work every single day I removed the Fenix headband and attached the headlamp to the chest strap that runs between the backpack straps. I run the power cord over my should and down into the top compartment of my backpack where I keep the HP30R battery pack.

Now every time I step out the door I have 1,750 lumens on tap. Whether I need flood, throw or hands free for up close work like scraping ice off of my Jeep it's all right there. The battery pack detaches easily enough. I typically top it off once a week or as needed by running a USB cord from my laptop during long shifts in the office.

Bull-Dozer said:

---My Headlamp System---

Last year some black ice tore up my back, neck, head and leg by way of a nasty fall in a dark parking lot walking into work. After that I decided....

Click to expand...

And also hopefully to seek advice from an attorney, and at the very least, get workers compensation. That kind of accident is life-changing. Hope you can and have fully recovered. I had a back injury at work, but I realized, honestly, it was stress related, for what was going on at home. Work was entirely not at all stressful, really a dream, and it was completely arbitrary that it occurred while at work. So I could not in good conscience pursue workers comp, and I knew it would resolve itself within weeks. Which it did. I missed a few days of work, then my contractor fired me. But the employment commission agreed with me, regarding being canned for surreptitious reasons, not anything I did, but to avoid the mess of injury at work (even though I would not pursue it), and I was paid very well for unemployment at the contractor's expense.

---Much Thanks---

Thanks for the concern, much appreciated. Glad to hear unemployment was beneficial.

Most everything was taken care of except for the exacerbation and complication of older injuries the parking lot ice caused. That part is too difficult and costly to prove but the old injuries are at least manageable.

I now find myself much more into accident and injury prevention even than ever before. Middle age seems to have a way of disproving invincibility. I also find my eye sight is not what it used to be even with glasses which makes things like headlamps all the more cherished. For the most part I don't mind having to use flashlights, especially as it pertains to personal safety. I am just grateful I can afford good lights and plenty of them.

the only headlamp I know that will run directly off the USB charging port even without a battery inside is the Sofirn SP40, it`s a neat feature because you can keep your 5V battery pack in your coat to keep them warm and still use your light in sub zero temps.

Oooohh.... a lot of requirements here. In case you are using your light in the woods, I would STRONGLY discourage the use of non-High CRI LEDs / LEDs with 6500K or that kind of lighting. That looks like you've come into a black and white world if you turn it on. VERY nasty.
The best way - but that will take some searching and maybe you would have to "build" the light yourself a bit - is to go for a brighter, more powerful incandescent setup. NOTHING beats the good light quality and color rendition of a nice incandescent flashlight - even in 2020. You can CLEARLY distinguish dark brown from dark green - now try that with ANY LED.

There are several options out these, the most easy ones are Maglite-modding. You can start with a 2D incan mag, remove the stock bulb and replace it by a new Maglite MagNum star II bulb for 6 cells, then add a 6AA to 2D adapter (check availability FIRST - may be unobtainable or take some time to find one), load six high quality NiMH AA cells (think Eneloop) and switch it on... and be amazed what a Maglite can do.
Other option is to take a standard Surefire M6 with MN20 lamp assembly, add a 2X 18650 battery holder and that's it. VERY bright, if the bulb burns out, Lumens Factory has a whole RANGE of nice bulbs to replace thhe MN20 with. My personal favorite is the HO-M3T, which draws "just" 2 Amps so will yield a runtime of well over an hour with modern high capacity 18650s.
Third option is to buy a Seraph SP-9 host from Lumens Factory for just $18.50(!) and add a 1 cell extender to make it suitable for 2X 18650, then add one of the four(!) D26 9V incandescent modules they have. Starting with the ES-9 all the way to the EO-9, you get every time more Lumens BUT less runtime. Pick the one you want. Even the EO-9 will result in more than one hour of runtime with 2X 18650s. Light output is anywhere between 150 and 380 Lumens for these lamp assemblies. Don't be fooled with the number of Lumens. Somehow, incan Lumens are not comparable to some LED-lumens. I can see more in the woods with a 105 Lumens Surefire C3 Centurion with P90 lamp assemly than with a 400 Lumens LED light that has the wrong color of light... if you have the possibility to try it, just do that and you'll see.

Thanks very much. I'll do some thinking