Well, this is cool. JW Speaker now puts out a version of their Evo-3 headlamp with an H4/sealed beam plug. There's no mention of additional functions controllable via an app as on the Jeep version, so I guess the extra width and foreground light and the flashy dancing light "party mode" are not available with these lamps. That doesn't bother me, because this product means there is now FINALLY a good 7" round headlamp with a for-real turn signal built in. For the longest time the only ones available have been pathetic junk with an H4 bulb and a useless little so-called turn signal...or more recently, various (equally) pathetic LED headlight-shaped toys with haloes claiming to act as turn signals.
JW Speaker 7" round Evo-3 for non-Jeeps!
- Thread starter -Virgil-
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Alaric Darconville
Flashlight Enthusiast
There's also new from Wipac, for LHT only it seems, so it may not be as exciting for most of us here.
The sealed-beam headlamp is dead! Long live sealed-beam headlamps!
The sealed-beam headlamp is dead! Long live sealed-beam headlamps!
The "Part Numbers" box on the linked Wipac page gives four part numbers: "UK" (=LHT) and "Euro" (=RHT) in chrome and black. Interesting-looking lamp, but I'm a little surprised that they went to the trouble of putting in a halo...and then gave it only a front position light function. No DRL? In 2020?
Alaric Darconville
Flashlight Enthusiast
D'oh. I missed that little detail.
My guess is the target vehicles don't do their DRL function on the headlamp at all, but it would be nice if it included a kit to implement a DRL feature on them (so if you had that old '71 Dodge pickup you could add DRLs as you replaced the headlamps).
Alaric Darconville
Flashlight Enthusiast
It almost feels deliberate (perhaps because it IS?). They'll get the early adopters NOW and then the rest of the holdouts later when DRL is added, and of COURSE a lot of those early adopters will upgrade at that time. Then, later they can introduce an RC (reduced cost) model and get another set of buyers.
Hello Virgil, Alaric (Happy New Year!).... =)
If I may, 3 questions about the JW Speaker 8700 EVO 3:
A) The EVO 3 is advertised as a "Heavy Duty Truck Headlight" -- is that simply marketing, or is there something about this lamp that makes it ill-suited for use in a passenger car? (E.g., Will it fit in a standard 7" bucket? Do beam patterns differ between high-mounted truck headlamps vs. lower-mounted car lamps?)
B) On the amperage front, according to the spec sheet, the DRL and turn signal functions (which are what primarily interest me about this headlamp) each draw 3.0 amps -- more than the low beams, and almost as much as the high beams:
2.33A @ 12V DC (Low Beam)
3.25A @ 12V DC (High Beam)
3.00A @ 12V DC (Front turn)
0.45A @ 12V DC (Position)
3.00A @ 12V DC (DRL)
Any chance this is a misprint? (And if not, then why do the DRL and turn signals require so much power?)
C) And finally, would you have an idea how "smart" is the built-in circuitry for the DRL and turn signals, in a lamp like this? That is, if I provide steady voltage to the DRL input, and feed an on/off signal to the turn signal input, will the DRL turn itself off while the turn signal flashes? Or would I have to implement a circuit to feed the lamp appropriate inputs (e.g., maybe via a pair of DRL-1 modules)?
Just thinking ahead to a 2022/23 project to get a 1968 MGB back on the road (it'd be great to have DRL and turn built into the headlight). Thanks very much in advance, and hope 2022 is starting well for both of you!
- C
If I may, 3 questions about the JW Speaker 8700 EVO 3:
A) The EVO 3 is advertised as a "Heavy Duty Truck Headlight" -- is that simply marketing, or is there something about this lamp that makes it ill-suited for use in a passenger car? (E.g., Will it fit in a standard 7" bucket? Do beam patterns differ between high-mounted truck headlamps vs. lower-mounted car lamps?)
B) On the amperage front, according to the spec sheet, the DRL and turn signal functions (which are what primarily interest me about this headlamp) each draw 3.0 amps -- more than the low beams, and almost as much as the high beams:
2.33A @ 12V DC (Low Beam)
3.25A @ 12V DC (High Beam)
3.00A @ 12V DC (Front turn)
0.45A @ 12V DC (Position)
3.00A @ 12V DC (DRL)
Any chance this is a misprint? (And if not, then why do the DRL and turn signals require so much power?)
C) And finally, would you have an idea how "smart" is the built-in circuitry for the DRL and turn signals, in a lamp like this? That is, if I provide steady voltage to the DRL input, and feed an on/off signal to the turn signal input, will the DRL turn itself off while the turn signal flashes? Or would I have to implement a circuit to feed the lamp appropriate inputs (e.g., maybe via a pair of DRL-1 modules)?
Just thinking ahead to a 2022/23 project to get a 1968 MGB back on the road (it'd be great to have DRL and turn built into the headlight). Thanks very much in advance, and hope 2022 is starting well for both of you!
- C
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You too!
Yes.
No, but the other way around isn't necessarily true, for durability/dependability reasons. A heavy-duty headlamp will do just fine in light-duty applications, but some light-duty headlamps don't hold up long enough in heavy-duty service.
There are so many different 7" buckets that there's almost guaranteed to be at least one out there that would require some modification (enlarge the center hole) but in general, yes, it fits anywhere a 7" headlamp goes.
No.
Sure, it could be a misprint, but it could also be correct. It takes a lot of light to make a front turn signal suitable for use in close proximity to a low beam headlamp, and the intensity minimum for that kind of turn signal (500cd) is the same as the intensity minimum for a DRL. Signal lights and road illumination lamps are often pretty completely different, technically, and the difference could easily be enough to cause this apparent weirdness. Call/email them and ask about it.
I don't know offhand; that's another question for them. DRL-1 modules wouldn't work for this because the two functions aren't being provided by the same light source(s), but if you wind up needing to control it yourself it's not hard with a couple of relays strategically hooked up.
Thank you very much, Virgil! (As always, very helpful and educational!)
1) I've sent an email to JW Speaker, asking about the amperage and DRL/Turn inputs (didn't manage to get through via phone -- they're very busy!), and will report back in this thread when/if I hear back.
2) That's interesting about the heavy-duty/ light-duty usage: silly me, I never thought about there being different durability grades, but of course a mining truck is going to be a lot tougher on a lamp than my little MG!
3) Glad to hear it's more or less a "normal" 7" round headlamp (i.e., enlarging a center hole is within my limited metalworking skills....) =)
4) Regarding the DRL/Turn amperage: thank you for explaining the intensity needed to stand out when so close to the low beam....
5) ...and out of curiosity (you got me thinking....), could some of the amperage perhaps also arise from the stylized "arrow" employed in the EVO 3's DRL/Turn? In looking through the Optronics catalog, I've noticed that the Tail function on their "Glolight" lamps (e.g., 0.295A here) can draw many times more than the Tail function on similar-sized "normal" lights (e.g., 0.046A here). Would this disparity come from inefficiencies in getting a broad geometric shape to light up (e.g., the circumferential oval on the Glolight), vs. simply projecting light from a reflector & lens? And if so, could something similar be at work in the EVO 3, in getting that big angular DRL/Turn arrow to light up so intensely?
6) On the circuitry: I wish I had retained more from my university electronics class(!), but for the life of me I can't see how to get the DRL to shut off and stay off while the Turn is flashing on and off, without some sort of R-C or microcontroller delay on the DRL restart (unless it's ok for the DRL and Turn to alternate? The [white DRL] / [amber Turn] new cars I've been seeing all seem to shut off the DRL for the duration of the signaling, so that it's amber-dark-amber-dark, instead of amber-white-amber-white). But I'll try to puzzle it out -- it'd be nice to do it with just a couple of relays!
Thanks again, and have a great week! -- C
1) I've sent an email to JW Speaker, asking about the amperage and DRL/Turn inputs (didn't manage to get through via phone -- they're very busy!), and will report back in this thread when/if I hear back.
2) That's interesting about the heavy-duty/ light-duty usage: silly me, I never thought about there being different durability grades, but of course a mining truck is going to be a lot tougher on a lamp than my little MG!
3) Glad to hear it's more or less a "normal" 7" round headlamp (i.e., enlarging a center hole is within my limited metalworking skills....) =)
4) Regarding the DRL/Turn amperage: thank you for explaining the intensity needed to stand out when so close to the low beam....
5) ...and out of curiosity (you got me thinking....), could some of the amperage perhaps also arise from the stylized "arrow" employed in the EVO 3's DRL/Turn? In looking through the Optronics catalog, I've noticed that the Tail function on their "Glolight" lamps (e.g., 0.295A here) can draw many times more than the Tail function on similar-sized "normal" lights (e.g., 0.046A here). Would this disparity come from inefficiencies in getting a broad geometric shape to light up (e.g., the circumferential oval on the Glolight), vs. simply projecting light from a reflector & lens? And if so, could something similar be at work in the EVO 3, in getting that big angular DRL/Turn arrow to light up so intensely?
6) On the circuitry: I wish I had retained more from my university electronics class(!), but for the life of me I can't see how to get the DRL to shut off and stay off while the Turn is flashing on and off, without some sort of R-C or microcontroller delay on the DRL restart (unless it's ok for the DRL and Turn to alternate? The [white DRL] / [amber Turn] new cars I've been seeing all seem to shut off the DRL for the duration of the signaling, so that it's amber-dark-amber-dark, instead of amber-white-amber-white). But I'll try to puzzle it out -- it'd be nice to do it with just a couple of relays!
Thanks again, and have a great week! -- C
I wish it weren't such a book of bad jokes.
Use a delayed-off timer relay. Amperite is one maker. This is a special relay that closes like normal when power is put across its signal terminals, but doesn't open for some set amount of time after the signal terminals are depowered. You'd select/adjust for about a 2-second delay, and connect its trigger terminals in parallel with the turn signal wires after the flasher. This way the timer relay's power contacts would be closed as long as the turn signal is operating (plus about 2 seconds after it's switched off). Use the timer relay to control a NC relay, so as long as the timer relay is closed, the NC relay is open. Run your DRL power through the NC relay. Voila, putting on the turn signal opens the NC relay, killing power to the DRL. About the only detail I haven't figured out is if/how you can use just one timer relay to control both LH and RH DRL. Guessing it would be possible (diodes, maybe?) but I didn't drink enough coffee today for that solution to come to mind.
There's also a pretty easy way of setting up OE-style control of the DRLs so they come on with the ignition on, parking brake off, and parking lights off, but changing any of those conditions douses the DRLs. That's a simple 2-relay setup.
jzchen
Enlightened
Definitely Happy New Year to all!
So one would disable the outer turn signals or optionally leave just the turn signals disconnected? (Or is it legal to run multiple turn signals on each side)?
I'd prefer to leave the original signals running, (specifically '85 Mercedes 300D)....
So one would disable the outer turn signals or optionally leave just the turn signals disconnected? (Or is it legal to run multiple turn signals on each side)?
I'd prefer to leave the original signals running, (specifically '85 Mercedes 300D)....
Oh no! I installed a whole suite of Optronics LEDs on my ancient utility trailer this summer -- is the whole lineup Not Recommended? What the are issues -- optical performance, durability, both? Very sad to hear this...
Virgil, this is great! I had no idea this entire product category existed (looks like an Amperite C TDR might be in my future) -- thanks for explaining how to hook it up!
P.S. -- jzchen, I'm wondering the same thing - but the front turn signals on my '68 MGB are so dim, I don't think anyone would particularly notice if I left them on... =)
Hi Virgil,
I've heard back from JW Speaker on the DRL/Turn Signal amperage and circuitry questions raised in Post #7 -- i.e.,..
Here's the email response from JW Speaker (sorry about the numbering -- something happened to the formatting when I cut & pasted...):
Hello xxxx,
I can answer these questions for you.
So that's that! =) Looks like I'll be using relays (including one or two of the Amperite delayed-off timer-relays you suggested), after which I'll no longer need hand-signals to tell people I'm making a turn(!).
Thanks again for the help and advice, and I'll post results on this thread when I eventually get the lights (which, realistically speaking, might not happen for a while -- first I've got to sort out the carburetors, cooling system, brakes, exhaust, oil pressure, and suspension: typical old British car stuff). =)
All best to you and Alaric!
-C
I've heard back from JW Speaker on the DRL/Turn Signal amperage and circuitry questions raised in Post #7 -- i.e.,..
Here's the email response from JW Speaker (sorry about the numbering -- something happened to the formatting when I cut & pasted...):
Hello xxxx,
I can answer these questions for you.
- Our lights are what we call "dumb", it will simply respond to voltage input on the different wires.
- We checked the testing and the amps are listed correctly.
So that's that! =) Looks like I'll be using relays (including one or two of the Amperite delayed-off timer-relays you suggested), after which I'll no longer need hand-signals to tell people I'm making a turn(!).
Thanks again for the help and advice, and I'll post results on this thread when I eventually get the lights (which, realistically speaking, might not happen for a while -- first I've got to sort out the carburetors, cooling system, brakes, exhaust, oil pressure, and suspension: typical old British car stuff). =)
All best to you and Alaric!
-C
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