Emisar D4V2 cu Copper E21A 3500k (warm white switch) Review

Umbrosoccer

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I decided to try out the Emisar line of lights after hearing good things. This is my first quad light and I really enjoy the Nichia E21A 3500k emitters! Im not sure what version of anduril ui is in this one. On thing to note the light came with a somewhat clearly carclo optic compared to the extra floody optic piece i purchased. I also got the 18350 tube but I dont own any. Anyone recommend a battery that can fit inside the 18350 tube?


 

jon_slider

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wow!
beautiful light!

outstanding value, Noble Metal, High CRI, Warm, Floody option, 18350 option, Aux lights, programmable UI allows ramping or stepped modes, has battery check, and more blinkies than I can shake a stick at..

congratulations!

18350 option I use

good video, the daylight white balance showed the color of the warm LEDs and the amber Aux lights very well. I also liked seeing your demonstration of the ramping, and the different Aux color options.. nicely done :thumbsup:
 
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Umbrosoccer

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wow!
beautiful light!

outstanding value, Noble Metal, High CRI, Warm, Floody option, 18350 option, Aux lights, programmable UI allows ramping or stepped modes, has battery check, and more blinkies than I can shake a stick at..

congratulations!

18350 option I use

good video, the daylight white balance showed the color of the warm LEDs and the amber Aux lights very well. I also liked seeing your demonstration of the ramping, and the different Aux color options.. nicely done :thumbsup:

Thanks Jon. I took your advice and went with the 5500k white balance for the night shots so the colors come out more nicely. I will buy those batteries and try them out. They look like the kind i can use. Yes this light has modular options including changing the optics and battery form factors which is a major bonus. I'm really enjoying this light. The LM 10 in copper and this light are my to favorite right now.
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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Nice review! I just got a D4v2 with the 2700K SST-20 emitters (which give a really nice high CRI "incandescent" light). I was really temped by the 2000K E21A, but in the end I figured it would be only used as a novelty. Maybe in the future, since you seem to really like the E21A.

I'd be interested in seeing a comparison between the E21A and SST-20 choices. The XPL-HI choices aren't very appealing to me, even though I like the 7A tint in my FW3A. The D4v2 only has 5000K and 6500K... meh.

My only complaint is that the light really can't sustain more than about 200 lumens without throttling down. The SST-20 just generates so much heat. Great for about 10 seconds on turbo, and that's about it. It also eats batteries if you use it more than about 100 lumens. FET drivers aren't very efficient, especially in a light like this which really hits hard on the cell.

So, yeah, it's a nice light for light use. But, if you need something bright, especially if you need it for hours, it's probably not a good choice unless you bring along extra batteries.

Finally, I have no idea why the pocket clip isn't included. Definitely order it along with the light.
 

Umbrosoccer

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Nice review! I just got a D4v2 with the 2700K SST-20 emitters (which give a really nice high CRI "incandescent" light). I was really temped by the 2000K E21A, but in the end I figured it would be only used as a novelty. Maybe in the future, since you seem to really like the E21A.

I'd be interested in seeing a comparison between the E21A and SST-20 choices. The XPL-HI choices aren't very appealing to me, even though I like the 7A tint in my FW3A. The D4v2 only has 5000K and 6500K... meh.

My only complaint is that the light really can't sustain more than about 200 lumens without throttling down. The SST-20 just generates so much heat. Great for about 10 seconds on turbo, and that's about it. It also eats batteries if you use it more than about 100 lumens. FET drivers aren't very efficient, especially in a light like this which really hits hard on the cell.

So, yeah, it's a nice light for light use. But, if you need something bright, especially if you need it for hours, it's probably not a good choice unless you bring along extra batteries.

Finally, I have no idea why the pocket clip isn't included. Definitely order it along with the light.

thanks! I've noticed these lights arent for duration use but more for ornate use. They are practical within certain limitations but only that. I want to get a 2700k emitter now too as i like the incandescent and warmer lights too. The 3500k is my lowest yet and i find it appealing especially with the e21a nichia emitters. I think Mine does not have the fet drivers since the e21a are a special kind of emitter. I think if i want a sustan light I will buy a 21700 format or a 26650 format light. I have an sst 20 LM 10, a nichia 219c fw3t and this guy. Maybe I will do a comparison video of all three.
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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I think Mine does not have the fet drivers since the e21a are a special kind of emitter.

That's interesting. I assumed that all the D4v2 options contained a single 7135 linear driver (for regulated lower output), and a FET driver for the higher outputs. The E21A options are different? Do they just use a few linear drivers, like a Convoy light does?
 

Umbrosoccer

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That's interesting. I assumed that all the D4v2 options contained a single 7135 linear driver (for regulated lower output), and a FET driver for the higher outputs. The E21A options are different? Do they just use a few linear drivers, like a Convoy light does?


im not sure to be honest. i read on the budgelight forums, i forget where that the e21a cant take high amps but in a arrangement of quads they can take up to 7.5 Amps i believe. I cannot confirm this though as i dont have the experience or knowledge to take apart the light and see.

EDIT found zero air reviews with toy keeper confirming its a linear driver. here is the link https://zeroair.org/2020/10/30/emisar-d4v2-brass-with-e21a-emitters-flashlight-review/
 
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ampdude

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Nice review! I just got a D4v2 with the 2700K SST-20 emitters (which give a really nice high CRI "incandescent" light). I was really temped by the 2000K E21A, but in the end I figured it would be only used as a novelty. Maybe in the future, since you seem to really like the E21A.

Anything under 3K seems really nice as far as seeing things and less eye strain.. I do have a sweet spot for 3500K, but I can't ever make up my mind. I'm mostly an incan guy though.
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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Anything under 3K seems really nice as far as seeing things and less eye strain.. I do have a sweet spot for 3500K, but I can't ever make up my mind. I'm mostly an incan guy though.

Yes, I really like the incandescent look indoors. So, the 95CRI 2700K SST-20 really fits that well.

Outdoors, I find it too warm. It makes things look unnatural. I much prefer about 4000K for outdoors. When I get another D4v2, I'll go with the 4000K.
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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Oh, I'll also add my nitpicks for the Anduril toy modes.

1. The candle mode is completely unrealistic, especially at low brightness levels. No candle flickers that much! I suppose they might flicker like that if you leave your candles by an open window on a windy night. But, who does that? The candle mode should flicker way less often, and less in overall brightness.

2. The lightning mode is also unrealistic, although not as bad as candle mode. The very bright flashes of lightning are way too short. A real lightning strike tends to pulse at high brightness for a good fraction of a second. At least some do, anyway. The "lightning mode" has very brief flashes of just a few milliseconds, and nothing longer (at bright levels). It looks more like an electrical short at a power plant, than lightning. Or a broken strobe mode.
 

Umbrosoccer

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Oh, I'll also add my nitpicks for the Anduril toy modes.

1. The candle mode is completely unrealistic, especially at low brightness levels. No candle flickers that much! I suppose they might flicker like that if you leave your candles by an open window on a windy night. But, who does that? The candle mode should flicker way less often, and less in overall brightness.

2. The lightning mode is also unrealistic, although not as bad as candle mode. The very bright flashes of lightning are way too short. A real lightning strike tends to pulse at high brightness for a good fraction of a second. At least some do, anyway. The "lightning mode" has very brief flashes of just a few milliseconds, and nothing longer (at bright levels). It looks more like an electrical short at a power plant, than lightning. Or a broken strobe mode.


I agree. I still like them though as they are fun for movie affects. I like the warm 3500k i think its best balance between 2700k and 4000k. I still need to get a 2700k sst20 option.
 

tsask

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thanks for this thread. ive got a comparable light (not copper) i really like it, yet the user 'multi click' interacrtion keeps me from using it more often
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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I'd love to see the D4 with a boost/buck driver design, rather than a linear driver + FET. It would be so much more efficient, at all levels.

When using a freshly charged cell, I can feel the heat being burned off by the linear driver, wasting about 25% of the power. It gets better as the voltage drops, but still...

And, FET drivers... well, they're great when a cell is freshly charged (though extremely inefficient), but they start to suck when the cell is about 50% depleted.

How much more expensive would a buck/boost driver be, than a linear + FET? If it added $10 or $20 to the price, it would be well worth it.
 
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