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Thread: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

  1. #61
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    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    Quote Originally Posted by raggie33 View Post
    id love to see a chevelle ss rebuilt on a all eltric chasis a eletric motor at each wheel
    Why not just buy a new one?
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  2. #62
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    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    BTW If I understood the advertisement, GMC is going to make an all electric 4X4 Hummer.
    That would be awesome.

    https://www.gmc.com/electric/hummer-...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
    Last edited by Poppy; 04-10-2021 at 05:01 PM.
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  3. #63

    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    because i love the looks of old cars i just hate gas engines . i expect in a year or 2 we will see a eltric car run the quarter mile in 7 seconds
    LED's have gotten too bright in our stuff. Many nights I'm awakened by my modem lights blinking.had help with my sig thank you for your help.

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poppy View Post
    Regarding electrical vs mechanical radiator fans, I am in favor of electrical.

    A thermostat that regulates coolant flow is used in both systems. It is used primarily to allow the engine to come up to the most efficient running temperature as quickly as is reasonable.

    The actual cooling of the coolant is dependent upon the radiator, and rate of flow of air through it.
    Years ago, I would commonly see over-heated cars on the side of the road as we traveled south the the Jersey shore. Yeah... years ago, they all had mechanical fans. Sitting in traffic, in 90+F at an engine idle, the fan did not pull enough air through the radiator and they overheated.

    Today, with computer controlled engines, (and fans); far fewer cars are on the side of the road due to over heating.

    Sensors in today's cars turn the fan on high when the A/C compressor is activated. The fan/s go to high when needed. This is independent of engine speed.

    Regarding rodding a radiator.
    In the North East US, I suspect that it would cost more to have a radiator rodded, than it would be to buy a replacement radiator. Labor rates may be lower in other parts of the country.
    Hey Poppy, It's roughly $50 cheaper to have mine rodded out than to buy a new cheap one. My original is two flue and the new one is higher capacity with 3 flues.
    My brother in law's 1986 D21 EFI nissan hardbody pickup with a 4cyl won't idle or idles rough and unstabile. It might be a bouncing idle. It is intermediate I think. He thought it was the old gas where it had been sitting up, but it does it now with fresh gas in it. Seems like those early EFI trucks suffered from this and folks would just idle them up enough that they wouldn't bottom out and die. It is the same motor as my 86 720 pickup except mine had a carb on it.
    I almost forgot- those original non aluminum radiators in old vehicles like mine are expensive to replace- like maybe $300-$700, so if I want to keep it original rodding out is the way to go. I just want it to work well whether original or not. This is my daily driver for now and I'm also dealing with water in my gas the way it is running. Was doing fine this morning near empty on the way home and I put some more gas in it from another station instead of where I originally got the bad gas, but it is back to bucking like a mule on the highway.
    Last edited by greenpondmike; 04-10-2021 at 07:23 PM.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by bykfixer View Post
    If it's a cold engine idle bounce it's likely a device that controls the idle based on coolant temperature. FITV Honda calls it. Fast Idle Thermo Valve.
    If it always idle bounces it could be a simple vacuum leak. If it bounces when cold it could be the what Honda calls a IACV Idle/Air Control Valve. If it fast idles fine and bounces when idle settles down to warm mode it's quite likely a vacuum leak.
    Each brand uses something their own like Nissan uses an FIC (fast idle actuator) and IAC (idle air control) that both do pretty much what those Honda sensors do. Now their IAC has a gasket that can leak so that can cause a vaccum leak, which would cause an idle bounce.

    My Honda fast idled fine but when warm went to bouncing. Somebody had unplugged a hose to the cruise control. Plug back and problem solved. My son continued a project I had abandoned on a real sweet 91 Prelude and he developed an idle boune. We cleaned the IACV and it stopped for a while but later the throttle position sensor screwed up and it went back to bouncing. So the throttle position sensor can also be a cause, but usually isn't.


    This was how it lived except on special days.
    Thanks bykfixer. I like being primed with ideals instead of going at it from scratch. I like that Ford sign.
    Last edited by greenpondmike; 04-10-2021 at 07:47 PM.

  6. #66
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    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    Quote Originally Posted by raggie33 View Post
    id love to see a chevelle ss rebuilt on a all eltric chasis a eletric motor at each wheel
    I'm more of a Ford fan, but those chevelles were nice cars and had a full frame as compaired to thr sub frame novas and unit body mid sized Fords and dodge/plymouths. Those unit bodies worked well though. I put a fox body fairlane futura through the wringer.

  7. #67

    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    The Ford sign is actually a giant sticker from the 1980's when I was restoring a 66 Mustang. I bought a bunch of business card sized sticky magnets and turned it into a big ole magnet to go onto the back of my tool chest
    John 3:16

  8. #68
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    I need to get one of those for my tool shed.

  9. #69
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    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    Quote Originally Posted by greenpondmike View Post
    Hey Poppy, It's roughly $50 cheaper to have mine rodded out than to buy a new cheap one. My original is two flue and the new one is higher capacity with 3 flues.
    I almost forgot- those original non aluminum radiators in old vehicles like mine are expensive to replace- like maybe $300-$700, so if I want to keep it original rodding out is the way to go. I just want it to work well whether original or not.
    Mike, since you already priced it out, I guess you made your decision. Rodding definitely works, and if those engines have a problem with electrolysis, then you are better off without an aluminum radiator.

    My brother in law's 1986 D21 EFI nissan hardbody pickup with a 4cyl won't idle or idles rough and unstabile. It might be a bouncing idle. It is intermediate I think. He thought it was the old gas where it had been sitting up, but it does it now with fresh gas in it. Seems like those early EFI trucks suffered from this and folks would just idle them up enough that they wouldn't bottom out and die. It is the same motor as my 86 720 pickup except mine had a carb on it.
    I am not familiar with nissans, although, I am with Fords.
    1. vacuum leak is probably the most frequent cause of a surging idle.
    2. fuel pressure, a weak fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, faulty fuel pressure regulator
    Early EFI Fords had a two pump system, a low pressure high volume one in the tank, and a high pressure one attached to the frame closer to the engine.
    3. faulty TPS throttle position sensor... that's the least likely of the three. When it goes bad, it will more often give a HIGH idle.
    4. edit... I forgot to include your IAC idle air control module
    5. electronic ignition module.
    6. That engine is old enough that capacitors in the engine control computer may start to fail. You might pull it and take a look for leaking capacitors.

    A Haynes, or Chilton's manual should walk you through how to test most of the components mentioned above.
    Beyond that, I am sure there are many Nissan forums, where members help members troubleshoot their cars/trucks. I suggest that you find a good one (one where there are some knowledgeable people who help out, vs one that has members who just blow smoke).

    Certainly, pulling engine troubleshooting codes (after looking for a vacuum leak) is a great place to start.
    Did you pull codes?
    What were they?

    This is my daily driver for now and I'm also dealing with water in my gas the way it is running. Was doing fine this morning near empty on the way home and I put some more gas in it from another station instead of where I originally got the bad gas, but it is back to bucking like a mule on the highway.
    Water settles to the bottom of the tank, and since the gas is pumped from the bottom of the tank, the water, if there is any is the first to get pumped out. Therefore... full tank, or empty tank doesn't matter when it comes to pumping water from it.

    Unless your County was under water, it seems very unlikely that you could have gotten bad gas from two different stations. I suspect that your problem is with YOUR truck, and not from buying bad gas.

    On a carbed engine if I remember correctly, fuel pressure should be between 5-7 PSI. Check the specs for your truck/engine. Also take a look at your fuel line. I once had a rubber hose that connected my gas tank to the metal fuel line. It dry rotted out, and caused a vacuum leak. It allowed enough fuel at idle, and low speeds, but not at high way speeds the fuel pump was sucking some air into the fuel line. The engine bogged down on the highway.

    If you are convinced that your problem is water in the fuel, pull your fuel filter, and dump it into a clear container, and examine it.
    Last edited by Poppy; 04-11-2021 at 06:17 AM.
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  10. #70
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    Thank you Poppy. I think my brother in law has a code checker, but I don't know if he checked any codes yet. I considered that with all this rain I could have gotten water in 2 different places.
    I just replaced the fuel pump. I had the gas cap off as I came home from work this morning to see if the lines might be collasping on the inside where I can't see it. I figured the vacuum in the tank (the tank is unvented whereas the original was vented) might be sucking the lines closed.
    I've had water in the tank before and it did the same way it does now except it seemed to clear up faster than this time. It also left me stranded twice this time, but hasn't anymore (praise God) since I put on the new fuel pump.
    I also checked my vacuum lines.
    You misunderstood me about the radiator. I want to fix the original, but it is a 2 flue and the new aluminum one that comes with 2 electric fans is 3 flue. I assume the original one barely kept it cool enough when the truck was new since the engine turns high rpms because of it's low geared rear end. I had already ordered the aluminium one this past Thursday and a water pump.
    Last edited by greenpondmike; 04-11-2021 at 08:07 AM.

  11. #71

    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    I've never gotten a check engine light when idle bounce was a thing.
    Now being a combustion motor is a giant vaccum system the idle bounce means vacuum is not in spec somewhere. And the computer is confused. "To rev or not to rev?" it keeps processing. So it's just a matter of figuring out what is out of spec.
    Agreed Poppy, forums are great sources for what typically goes wrong, yes. Yet there are times when it is none of the usual suspects so one has to put on their Sherlock Holmes thinking cap and begin analyzing. That's when the fun begins.

    Modern shops have diagnistic machines that can check out all over the system be it vacuum or electronic. I'm not above paying somebody $75 to diagnose an issue I just can't figure out. Then decide either DIY or pay the shop.
    John 3:16

  12. #72
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    Trying to think of different sensors that may trigger a CEL check engine light when one of the symptoms is a surging idle include:
    IAT intake air temperature sensor... common cause of surging idle
    MAF Mass air flow sensor (has the IAT built into it) ... surging, stalling
    MAP Manifold absolute pressure sensor (works similar to MAF)
    O2 sensors, running RICH, or running LEAN codes may be set depending upon where a vacuum leak is, among other things, such as incomplete ignition.
    EGR valve malfunction may cause the EGR valve position sensor to trigger a code.
    EGR Differential Pressure sensor may send a code... What are the symptoms of a bad EGR pressure sensor?As with any EGR issue, the most common symptoms noticed when the exhaust gas recirculation pressure feedback sensor fails are rough idling, hesitation accelerating from a stop, lack of engine power, misfires, and, of course, illumination of the dreaded check engine light.




    Pulling DTC codes (Diagnostic Troubleshooting Codes) is very easy to do and can REALLY point one in the right direction for troubleshooting a problem.
    Last edited by Poppy; 04-12-2021 at 04:13 AM.
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  13. #73

    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    any of you al recall checking a ford ecm with a papper clip and a volt meter?
    LED's have gotten too bright in our stuff. Many nights I'm awakened by my modem lights blinking.had help with my sig thank you for your help.

  14. #74
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    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    Yes, I wrote an instruction how to do that and in slightly newer Ford s you can count the blinks of the CEL👍
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  15. #75

    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    i used to do it on my ford exp i loved this car the stereo in it was worth more then the total price i psyed for it used. it wasnt cool but i drove thr hell out of it only time it left me stranded was when iran out of gas. i recall drilling a hole in the engine compartment to get to the crank shaftbolt for a timeing belt change. it was this or buy a specailtooll
    LED's have gotten too bright in our stuff. Many nights I'm awakened by my modem lights blinking.had help with my sig thank you for your help.

  16. #76
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    Thanks Poppy for that info. I like having an old raggity Ford that people would not think much of till it eats their chevies. I want it to be perfect mechanically and on the inside and sound good and have no rust- just look kind of rough on the outside, but easily fixable if I want it to look good. I like the old LTDS and galaxies, but I also like the mid sized offerings. I still wouldn't mind having a modified pinto with a fuel cell or plastic boat tank. Those little cars were tough and people used to put them through the wringer down here. One had a 302 off in it. You had to take the motor mounts loose and jack up the motor just to change the oil filter. Now they make kits to reroute the oil filter where it can easily be changed.

  17. #77
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    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    Raggie,, you know more than you let on 👍😉
    Creating access holes can be a real time saver.
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    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    Quote Originally Posted by Poppy View Post
    Raggie,, you know more than you let on 👍😉
    Creating access holes can be a real time saver.
    I agree- +1

  19. #79

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    Quote Originally Posted by Poppy View Post
    Raggie,, you know more than you let on 👍😉
    Creating access holes can be a real time saver.
    ive been told i can fix anything my mind works that way. from ac to computers i can fix most anything. butbin life im a moron lol
    LED's have gotten too bright in our stuff. Many nights I'm awakened by my modem lights blinking.had help with my sig thank you for your help.

  20. #80

    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    lol one time i changed a entire engine with no egine hoist just a floor jack. its how i used to feed my self by fixing stuff
    LED's have gotten too bright in our stuff. Many nights I'm awakened by my modem lights blinking.had help with my sig thank you for your help.

  21. #81

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    on the exp i had to remove engine crank bolt but a course when i turned bolt egine just turned. so i pried wrench and disconcted distrubter and used the starter to turn engine over while socket wrench held bolt pried lol just held key for a half zecond
    LED's have gotten too bright in our stuff. Many nights I'm awakened by my modem lights blinking.had help with my sig thank you for your help.

  22. #82

    Default Re: Old Cars/Trucks Restoration and Modding

    but in life most human call me retarded i dont listen any more . at my age i know we all have pros and cons
    LED's have gotten too bright in our stuff. Many nights I'm awakened by my modem lights blinking.had help with my sig thank you for your help.

  23. #83
    *Flashaholic* Poppy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raggie33 View Post
    lol one time i changed a entire engine with no egine hoist just a floor jack. its how i used to feed my self by fixing stuff
    My hat's off to you for that one my friend.
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    Yeah Poppy, Raggie's creative with mechanical things and sounds like instead of giving up he finds a way. Raggie, I hope you don't mind me taking the liberty to say that likewise in your current situation I hope you would also not give up, but find a way to make things work out.
    Last edited by greenpondmike; 04-12-2021 at 11:14 PM.

  25. #85

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    Quote Originally Posted by greenpondmike View Post
    Yeah Poppy, Raggie's creative with mechanical things and sounds like instead of giving up he finds a way. Raggie, I hope you don't mind me taking the liberty to say that likewise in your current situation I hope you would also not give up, but find a way to make things work out.
    ty we mst go on
    LED's have gotten too bright in our stuff. Many nights I'm awakened by my modem lights blinking.had help with my sig thank you for your help.

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    My ol chevy has been giving me fits. It was spitting, spuddering, bucking and backfiring. It also started dieing and not cranking again, so I did what seemed (by accident) to work before.

    I pulled off the fuel line and had someone who wanted to help me hold it to the side and I turned over the moter. It cranked right up. I replaced the fuel line at the back of the fuel pump with fuel injection hose. The old line looked new, but seemed a little flat in the curves. Another set of used spark plugs were put in except these were a free set that cost my brother in law about $7 something a piece. One had broke on his V8, so he just bought a new set.

    It cranked up and had a non metellic slightly scraping knock that seemed to come from the GM HEI distributor we installed a couple of years back. Pulled the cap and all looked good inside. Drove it home like that. I figured the bushing was bad in the dist. and decided to get one from the junk yard.
    Today ol truck ran fine and smooth- no knock, but I went and got dist. anyway and it died on me when I almost got to the junkyard. I pulled the fuel line and let some gas out. It cranked and I went on and got the other dist. and drove on to work averaging 70 mph. No problems at all, but engine ran a little hot.

    I need to put that new radiator and water pump on, but I wanted to focus on getting it running right first and just using the heater fan for extra cooling. I guess it's coming along.
    Last edited by greenpondmike; 04-28-2021 at 09:53 PM.

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    I miss my 71 gold duster. That 225 slant six with a 2 barrel carb was a good engine. Only problem I remember having with it was it developed a dead miss. Found out the adjusting nut on a rocker had come off. I put it back on and it ran fine.

    I miss a lot of my past vehicles and wonder what I was thinking getting rid of them. I had 3 different generations of nova's and four mustangs spanning 3 older generations. A 71 ranchero and all kinds of older trucks from Ford, chevy, dodge and datson. Not to mention all the others. I've lost count of all the ones I had that I actually bought a tag for, 80-90+? And I've owned more than that.

    I wished I'd finished that 64 falcon two door- all I lacked was brakes, flywheel and a floor shifter because the collar on the column shifter broke. I drove it a little- stopping on one wheel brakes was a trip. It had some rust in the floorboards, but I could live with that.
    Last edited by greenpondmike; 04-28-2021 at 09:55 PM.

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    Come to think about it I also miss my 75 cutlass and 67 ltd coupe. I was stupid with my 68 mustang. I got it in 85 or 86 for $600 with a good body and the 2 barrel 289 special ran great. It had a limited slip rear end and a 3 speed stick shift in the floor. Unlike the novas, I could trail ride this thing without worrying about hitting the oil pan. I enjoyed it and it got me liking Fords. I let a fellow I knew and trusted take it for a spin and he overrevved it and it developed a dead miss. I tore it down still warm with the hot bolts burning my figures.
    It had cracked three top compression rings and ruint three pistons only. The cylinder walls were barely scarred and would easily disappear with minimal honing.

    Well, I wanted to go all out and build a monster, so I got bought a torquer 2 intake with a holly 650 double pumper carb mounted on it and several accesseries. Was going to buy more as I got the money. Had a so called friend rebuild the heads, etc.

    Well, the carb and intake shouldn't have been sold to me because the one doing the selling didn't own them and the real owner found out where they were. The fellow that was supposed to rebuild my heads was dragging his feet (later I found out he had sold them), so when a friend offered my a 71 mustang that was running for it I traded. Car didn't have a grill and looked like a catfish, but it had a good body and ran good.

    The one that got the 68 just slopped it together- had the timing chain in the dirt and didn't even wash it off- just put it on and it ran just fine again in stock configuration with a cheaper set of heads. It has now had several owners and has been painted back the same medium blue color with white racing stripes on the hood and has the two other magnesium slotted mags I had for it on the front- I only had only mounted the two on the back.

    Last time I saw it a young fellow was driving it and it had no front bumper. I guess this was in the mid 90s. It has either been totalled or a collector has it now I guess.
    Last edited by greenpondmike; 04-28-2021 at 09:57 PM.

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    Of the Fords I've owned I like their 289, 302, 351 windsor, and their 390 the best. Some engines I don't know about because I've never owned them.

    I had a friend that had a 260 v8 and it was alright. The 200 six cyl is a very good motor. I don't like their 250 six cyl. The 300 six is a good motor. I've had some worn out ones, but I've also had a few that were as good as people brag that they are.
    Fuel injection helped them because they were too large for that little one barrel the fed the engine from the middle. I'd put that fuel injected 300 up against any big block as far as pulling goes.

    That 390 I had in my 67 Ltd had 275 hp and a lot of torque. It got 20 mpg and ran like a scolded dog. The car itself could climb kudzu hill from that bad side (that's saying something) and could trail ride better than most all the ones I've ever owned. I wish I'd also kept it and restored it.
    Last edited by greenpondmike; 04-28-2021 at 09:59 PM.

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    As far as chrysler, plymouth and dodge go, the 225 slant six is the best 6cyl engine I've ever seen. Believe me when I say that my friends and I have abused them and I don't know of a time when they have ever failed us. I also like the 318 and although I've never owned the 360 I have a lot of respect for the older ones on up to when they were used in the little red express.
    I've seen what the 383 magnum will also do.

    A friend that knew and were friends with several of the wealthier folks in the mid 60s to the early 70s told me about the 440. He drove their cars while they partied and if he wasn't going fast enough one of them would put his foot on top of my friend's to make sure the pedal was to the floor. My friend drove all kinds of muscle cars from that era including the 389 gto with 3 duches. He said the one with the most punch he's ever driven was a 1971 coronet with a 440 4 barrel.
    Last edited by greenpondmike; 04-28-2021 at 10:02 PM.

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