How to make a “heavy” battery?

J_C_S

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I couldn't find a better place to post this and it's a bit of an odd request for this forum but here goes:

I have a stream light trl1hl that I want to mod to make it heavier. The key is that it has to remain functional. I use this in competitive shooting and some non flashlight people have theorized you can use something like a lead weight that's the size of a cr132a battery and make it conduct electricity.

Do you have any ideas how to make it heavier?

Also I'll mention there is a huge market for something like this right now so if someone created something there money to be made of it. I'm just wanting one for myself.
 

Katherine Alicia

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Bismuth would be heavier than Lead and it`s just as easy to cast, maybe get some Tungsten bar stock and cut a section off that.
 
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J_C_S

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Bismuth would be heavier than Lead and it`s just as easy to cast, maybe get some Tungsten bar stock and cut a section off that.

If I cut it to the same length as a cr123a and leave the second battery in there will it still power on the light?
 

Scotty321

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Are you sure that the rules allow this modification?

I would think that going from 6 volts to 3 volts might not power the light properly.

If you want to experiment with options, you should be able to find Tungsten tape for tennis rackets and lead tape for golf clubs at corresponding stores. Tungsten is denser than lead, but the tape will only add a few grams.

You might also search out smaller batteries that put out a similar voltage to the CR123's. Does anyone have experience with 14250 batteries?
 
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Katherine Alicia

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If I cut it to the same length as a cr123a and leave the second battery in there will it still power on the light?


I`m not familiar with that light but if you swapped out the CR123 primary cell for a 16340 then you`de have more voltage than just the 3v, but really you`de have to try it first.
 

thermal guy

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Well Hold on a second. You want to replace one of your cells with a conductive Metal slug? You would have to insulate the crap out of it or you will have a pretty big issue when it shorts out on the body. Or am I mistaken about what you have planned?
 

Katherine Alicia

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Yup, you would need to insulate the dummy cell (they sell heatshrink battery wraps for pennies) otherwise it would very likely be ON all the while as soon as you put it in there, and only if you were fortunate to put the dummy in last.
Put the dummy in First and :poof::oops::poof: ...at BEST you`de fry your switch.
 

thermal guy

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Just wanted to make sure OP was aware of this if I understood what he was trying to do. 👍🏻
 

J_C_S

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Just wanted to make sure OP was aware of this if I understood what he was trying to do. 👍🏻
I didn't know that and that's why I wanted to ask here! I'm not gonna mess with it then. It's a little out of my league!
 

thermal guy

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Yes if you had just stuck a conductive slug in there without properly insulating it all hell would brake out. It would short in the tube and god knows what else. Live and learn right?
 

DIWdiver

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I don't see installing a slug as a safety risk.

As far as insulating the slug, it's no more demanding than insulating a cell. A failure of the insulation on a cell would be just as bad or worse than a failure of the insulation on a slug. The two are equally likely, if insulation is done similarly. A single layer of shrink wrap is fine for a cell, so it should be considered fine for a slug as well, provided the slug has no burrs or other protrusions that could compromise the insulation. So never mind those who say you have to be really careful to insulate the slug. You do have to insulate it properly, but no more carefully than a cell.

The bigger issue here is how your light will perform with one cell instead of two. The performance could be anything from similar output for shorter time, to no output at all. Only someone with knowledge about your specific light could address this question in a way that would be useful. Speculation may abound. Pay it no attention to speculations and listen only to those who claim knowledge of your specific light. Or test. Then you'll know for sure.
 

datiLED

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If you place the slug at the cathode end of the cell, you would have less to worry about with a short circuit. If it shorts, it would only cause the light to turn on.
 

Lynx_Arc

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If the light uses the tube and a spring at the end to connect to end of the battery you could use a slug without insulation just make sure and put it in on the end farthest from the light engine where the tube is used to run power if a bare slug touching the tube won't but help the connection even.
 
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