Opening the L1

I need to crack open my L1. I'd like to be able to put it back together again as well. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Don't ask how this happened (I'm still not quite sure myself), but a little piece of unused solder (i.e. still in wire form) snuck into the circuit area through the hole for the contact that touches the head (i.e. where the + battery contact would be).

The black plastic looks like it's just press-fit into place. Is it easy to remove?

Destructive removal is a piece of cake. Need any extra circuits? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

For non destructive, you need to somehow squeeze the plastic "barbs" on the front end in enough so that you can press the coffin out of the front end (pushing from the back) Heating the light might soften the plastic and aid in this. Good luck!

Thanks, Don.

So if I want to destructively remove it, I just need to clip the barbs off and the coffin will slide out? Do I need any other modifications to use, say a KL4 with 2x123? Just eyballing it, it seems the tube may be just a bit too long for 2x123 with "standard" e-series heads.

Tyler,
The tube is TOO short for stock E series heads. After removal of the PCB coffin, therre is also an integral bulkhead partition that will have to be removed by fileing, boreing or other means. I have found that in order to put a PR based head on the L1 2x123 package and use the existing tail cap switch, that I have had to put a counter bore of about .060" in the back side of the LED bulkhead to make room for part of the converter board. I have also been making my own custom E-cans that are very shallow and the inductor and large cap actually stick into the counter bore in the bulkhead of the head. If you chose to go with 2xCR2, you will have room for a standard E series head and in fact you will need a short spacer in the battery train.