Arc4+ tail switch mod 1.1 adapted for a Rev2

At first when I received my A4R2+ and took it out of the package it disappointed me, but little did I know a day later it would be my favorite flashlight I own. I found the switch hard to use until I opened it up and saw that the foam cushion was out of place. I already owned a Rev1 Second and had troubles with the switch before. Please note that I've used one other Rev1+ and its switch was easier and more comfortable to use than either of my own. Also, my Rev2 was harder than Hades to turn on if I used Surefire batteries. I have 4 boxes of Surefire batteries, so any light I buy must work with those batteries. I offered to trade this light to a couple people on the CPF for a Rev1+, but am glad I didn't since I wasn't aware of the battery problem at the time. The switch worked great with Duracells, but I missed the short profile and feel of cy's 1.1 tail switch mod. I was about to fall asleep at about 2 o'clock in the morning when I had an idea for a Rev2 adaptation of the 1.1 tail switch mod. The mechanism I had envisioned in my mind turned out to be far more complicated than it needed to be. The only modification that needs to be made to the 1.1 mod is an extension of the plunger. For my tail switch mods, I've used 1/16" gasket material that I bought from my local hardware store, a thumbtack, and a furniture glide. I used a dremel tool to cut circular pads out of 1" furniture glides known as Grippers made by Waxman. The diameter of the pad is the same as the tack. Instead of a rivet I used a thumbtack which was 1/16" X 7/16" and cut the pointy-end so about 1/16" remained on the tack itself. The plunger was at first much too long and caused the light to constantly stay on. From there I began shaving the pad down piece by piece with a razor blade until the pad was about 3/32" thick. And what was the end result? Well let's just say now you couldn't pry my A4R2 out of my hands if your life depended on it! I thought I would have problems with the plunger slipping out of place, since the length the wafer in the Rev2 needs to be pushed out more than the Rev1 by a significant amount. The sharp point on the tack secures itself to the pad when inside the switch and the plunger stays in place. I then tightened the tail cap down as far as I could and the mod was finished. I think the stiffer gasket material might be a better choice for the Rev2 tail switch mod, since it will hold its form better. I can only speak from my own experience having seen only one A4R2. I've read about others having switch problems and cy encouraged me to share my experience with the CPF. READER'S NOTE: I am an amateur modder, this being my first attempt at a mod which previously did not have directions. Much of the mod was not calculated, but done with more of a "feel it out as you go" approach. As for it being water proof, I have the same mod on my Rev1, but with less wafer extension, and it is completely water proof. This may be because you can tighten the tail cap down completely until it is snug. I would post pictures, but alas, I still haven't bought a digital camera. Perhaps it's because I keep buying flashlights... hmm. Anyway, I wanted to say thank you to cy for the inspiration and I hope this helps some people who have had switch troubles recently. I may make a few kits as cy did, but I need to find more materials as well as time.

Summary:
Gasket Material: 1/16" cut to diameter of the rubber boot
Thumbtack: 1/16 X 7/16"
Extension Pad: 3/32 or 1/8 X 7/16"
Note: see cy's Arc4+ tail cap mod, version 1.1 for similar visuals

Nitnos

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Cooooool and good job Nitnos!!!

My switch hasn't had any problems yet, if I use a Duracell battery. But I tested a Surefire battery, and I have the same problem that you did--the switch becomes very hard to use. I just e-mailed Peter about this.

Update:

I folded up a small square of aluminum foil and taped it to the negative end of the Surefire battery. Now the light works fine. So there is definitely an issue with the length of the battery and/or the switch plunger.

Nice work P..., Brother, almost typed my nick name for you! Didn't know you had it in you, great job. Now come over, and take some pictures!
Boandon

Here is an EZ fix for rev2 hard switch problems. EZ fix for rev2 hard switch problems

Ultimately,I would like to see a corrective mod that allows the non corroding gold contact plate to directly come into contact with the negative end of the battery ( as opposed to foil or copper washers). To me, this would mean either thickening the existing gold contact plate or lengthening something (like the plunger) on the button side of the contact plate. Anything on the battery side that isn't gold is a temporary fix.
I have put folded foil behind the spring/in front of the plunger (and all systems are go) but the verdict is out whether or not this is a long term fix.

As stated in the original post, The perm fix is to apply a blob of solder the desired thickness to the gold disc. Sammies uses a blob of solder to make contact too.

It would be ideal if Peter sees it this way. I'm not set up to do even simple soldering. I'm not a modder,just a connoisseur of great tools.Which I use alot.

Thank you to everyone who has read this post and I hope it has helped. Though I prefer the feel of the 1.1 mod on my Arc4, I did like feel the original tail switch when it worked well. I, personally, do not understand why there are so many separate parts in the tail switch of an Arc4 Rev2. I also chose the 1.1 mod over the original tail switch for the utilitarian aspect of the 1.1 tail mod concerning the Arc4 surviving a direct tail drop. If not for that fact, I would be using mut and cy's solution to the tail switch problem. Once again, thanks to everyone for reading.

Nitnos